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TC SS4260 mower deck bearings growling
#1
N
need-for-speed
N
need-for-speed
Well, since they were not "grease-able" I figured they would not last that long. I've had it for 6 years. As soon as I engage the mower, there's a lot of growling /rumbling. I assume its the bearings /spindles that drive the blades - whatever the right name is.
Anyone replace these?
Anyone replace these?
#2
7394
7394
How many hours on yours ? My TC 4260 has 84 hours & quiet, @ 3.5 yrs old.
But you could easily remove the deck, & check each spindle & each pulley by hand rotating each separately for noise & or excessive looseness.
The decks come off very simply & doing so un-hooks the deck belt. It's described in the owners manual or Youtube.
Deck removal: Lower deck to lowest setting, remove front connection point at deck. Let it on the ground, gently push deck back towards rear of machine so the 2 rear lift hooks unhook off the lift bar, the deck belt will loosen (Pay attention to where the belt goes for re-assembly) & remove it from machine.
Then check each (one at a time) by spinning each by hand & listening. The guilty party should be revealed. Replacing either a spindle or a pulley will be pretty much common sense then.
Good luck & Keep us posted to what you find.
But you could easily remove the deck, & check each spindle & each pulley by hand rotating each separately for noise & or excessive looseness.
The decks come off very simply & doing so un-hooks the deck belt. It's described in the owners manual or Youtube.
Deck removal: Lower deck to lowest setting, remove front connection point at deck. Let it on the ground, gently push deck back towards rear of machine so the 2 rear lift hooks unhook off the lift bar, the deck belt will loosen (Pay attention to where the belt goes for re-assembly) & remove it from machine.
Then check each (one at a time) by spinning each by hand & listening. The guilty party should be revealed. Replacing either a spindle or a pulley will be pretty much common sense then.
Good luck & Keep us posted to what you find.
#3
N
need-for-speed
thanks. they have approx. 160 hours....
N
need-for-speed
How many hours on yours ? My TC 4260 has 84 hours & quiet, @ 3.5 yrs old.
But you could easily remove the deck, & check each spindle & each pulley by hand rotating each separately for noise & or excessive looseness.
The decks come off very simply & doing so un-hooks the deck belt. It's described in the owners manual or Youtube.
Deck removal: Lower deck to lowest setting, remove front connection point at deck. Let it on the ground, gently push deck back towards rear of machine so the 2 rear lift hooks unhook off the lift bar, the deck belt will loosen (Pay attention to where the belt goes for re-assembly) & remove it from machine.
Then check each (one at a time) by spinning each by hand & listening. The guilty party should be revealed. Replacing either a spindle or a pulley will be pretty much common sense then.
Good luck & Keep us posted to what you find.
thanks. they have approx. 160 hours....
#4
D
Darryl G
D
Darryl G
That's not a lot of hours. I hope you're not using the deck washout port. Bad idea to equip a mower with one and worse idea to use it IMO.
#5
B
bertsmobile1
Put two lengths of 2 x 4 , flat side down under the deck about 6' to 8' long.
Drop the deck to the lowest setting and proceed as above.
The deck will then slide out on the 2 x 4's very easily.
Check the blade by grabbing them on the ends then try to rock them see saw motion.
Any movement = new spindle bearings.
Check all of the other idler pulleys on the deck as well.
Any noise or roughness = new pulleys as the bearings are not readily replaceable and most are double row so not readily available.
To remove the drive pulleys & Blades an impact gun is your best friend.
Take the pulley nut off first because you can hold the shaft with the blade.
then the blade nut off again holding the blade.
B
bertsmobile1
How many hours on yours ? My TC 4260 has 84 hours & quiet, @ 3.5 yrs old.
But you could easily remove the deck, & check each spindle & each pulley by hand rotating each separately for noise & or excessive looseness.
The decks come off very simply & doing so un-hooks the deck belt. It's described in the owners manual or Youtube.
Deck removal: Lower deck to lowest setting, remove front connection point at deck. Let it on the ground, gently push deck back towards rear of machine so the 2 rear lift hooks unhook off the lift bar, the deck belt will loosen (Pay attention to where the belt goes for re-assembly) & remove it from machine.
Then check each (one at a time) by spinning each by hand & listening. The guilty party should be revealed. Replacing either a spindle or a pulley will be pretty much common sense then.
Good luck & Keep us posted to what you find.
Put two lengths of 2 x 4 , flat side down under the deck about 6' to 8' long.
Drop the deck to the lowest setting and proceed as above.
The deck will then slide out on the 2 x 4's very easily.
Check the blade by grabbing them on the ends then try to rock them see saw motion.
Any movement = new spindle bearings.
Check all of the other idler pulleys on the deck as well.
Any noise or roughness = new pulleys as the bearings are not readily replaceable and most are double row so not readily available.
To remove the drive pulleys & Blades an impact gun is your best friend.
Take the pulley nut off first because you can hold the shaft with the blade.
then the blade nut off again holding the blade.
#6
N
need-for-speed
no sir. I just use a leaf blower to clean it off..
N
need-for-speed
That's not a lot of hours. I hope you're not using the deck washout port. Bad idea to equip a mower with one and worse idea to use it IMO.
no sir. I just use a leaf blower to clean it off..
#7
N
need-for-speed
Great info. I didn't even consider the pulleys. I will remove the deck and insect everything, including pulleys. I have removed the deck once before when I installed the mulching kit. Great idea with the 2 X 4 's - that will make it easier.
Thanks !
N
need-for-speed
Put two lengths of 2 x 4 , flat side down under the deck about 6' to 8' long.
Drop the deck to the lowest setting and proceed as above.
The deck will then slide out on the 2 x 4's very easily.
Check the blade by grabbing them on the ends then try to rock them see saw motion.
Any movement = new spindle bearings.
Check all of the other idler pulleys on the deck as well.
Any noise or roughness = new pulleys as the bearings are not readily replaceable and most are double row so not readily available.
To remove the drive pulleys & Blades an impact gun is your best friend.
Take the pulley nut off first because you can hold the shaft with the blade.
then the blade nut off again holding the blade.
Great info. I didn't even consider the pulleys. I will remove the deck and insect everything, including pulleys. I have removed the deck once before when I installed the mulching kit. Great idea with the 2 X 4 's - that will make it easier.
Thanks !
#8
7394
7394
As previously posted, best to check every one w/deck off. As well as checking the deck belt for any cracks or frays etc.
And after re-installing it, good idea to check deck for level & proper slope to front, (of course with correct tire pressures first).
Curious what you find as the problem.
And after re-installing it, good idea to check deck for level & proper slope to front, (of course with correct tire pressures first).
Curious what you find as the problem.
#9
N
need-for-speed
Thank you. Will be tacking it very soon. I will get back to y'all.
N
need-for-speed
As previously posted, best to check every one w/deck off. As well as checking the deck belt for any cracks or frays etc.
And after re-installing it, good idea to check deck for level & proper slope to front, (of course with correct tire pressures first).
Curious what you find as the problem.
Thank you. Will be tacking it very soon. I will get back to y'all.
#10
reynoldston
When you put in your new bearings why don't you remove the inner bearing seals and then drill and tap your spindle housing and install your own grease fittings. Just be careful if you do this that you don't over grease them.
reynoldston
Thank you. Will be tacking it very soon. I will get back to y'all.
When you put in your new bearings why don't you remove the inner bearing seals and then drill and tap your spindle housing and install your own grease fittings. Just be careful if you do this that you don't over grease them.
#11
N
need-for-speed
That's exactly what I was thinking! Has anyone here done that ?
N
need-for-speed
When you put in your new bearings why don't you remove the inner bearing seals and then drill and tap your spindle housing and install your own grease fittings. Just be careful if you do this that you don't over grease them.
That's exactly what I was thinking! Has anyone here done that ?
#12
N
need-for-speed
N
need-for-speed
Thanks for the great responses. I pulled the deck and it is definitely the front pulley!!
grrrrrrrrr.
grrrrrrrrr.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
If that is the spindle pulley, then bite the bullet and replace them all.
Undo the top nut & remov the pulleys then the bottom nut & replace the bllades.
The spindles will then knock out from the top.
The bottom bearing usually comes out with the shaft & the top gets knocked out from the bottom
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for the great responses. I pulled the deck and it is definitely the front pulley!!
grrrrrrrrr.
If that is the spindle pulley, then bite the bullet and replace them all.
Undo the top nut & remov the pulleys then the bottom nut & replace the bllades.
The spindles will then knock out from the top.
The bottom bearing usually comes out with the shaft & the top gets knocked out from the bottom
#14
N
need-for-speed
thanks bert.
It was the flat idler pulleys. I will replace both. I will keep your info for when the spindle bearings eventually wear out. :thumbsup:
N
need-for-speed
If that is the spindle pulley, then bite the bullet and replace them all.
Undo the top nut & remov the pulleys then the bottom nut & replace the bllades.
The spindles will then knock out from the top.
The bottom bearing usually comes out with the shaft & the top gets knocked out from the bottom
thanks bert.
It was the flat idler pulleys. I will replace both. I will keep your info for when the spindle bearings eventually wear out. :thumbsup:
#15
B
bertsmobile1
Idlers generally fail early because of water that wicks into the bearing from the deck being washed when hot.
Blow the deck clean with air and never use a pressure washer.
Now days they have got them down pat and generally by the time an idler bearing goes where sill be significant wear in the running face.
If you really want to and the running face is still good you can cut out the welds, replace the bearing then bolt or rivet them aback together.
I have done a few because the idlers were over $ 100 Aus & the bearing was $ 25 but in most cases I use Stens or Prime idlers which are 1/2 to 1/3 the price of machine branded ones.
Just be careful of very cheap ones on the net.
Most OEM pulleys use a double row deep groove bearing but cheap Imported ones use single row bearings which wear very quickly
B
bertsmobile1
thanks bert.
It was the flat idler pulleys. I will replace both. I will keep your info for when the spindle bearings eventually wear out. :thumbsup:
Idlers generally fail early because of water that wicks into the bearing from the deck being washed when hot.
Blow the deck clean with air and never use a pressure washer.
Now days they have got them down pat and generally by the time an idler bearing goes where sill be significant wear in the running face.
If you really want to and the running face is still good you can cut out the welds, replace the bearing then bolt or rivet them aback together.
I have done a few because the idlers were over $ 100 Aus & the bearing was $ 25 but in most cases I use Stens or Prime idlers which are 1/2 to 1/3 the price of machine branded ones.
Just be careful of very cheap ones on the net.
Most OEM pulleys use a double row deep groove bearing but cheap Imported ones use single row bearings which wear very quickly
#16
N
need-for-speed
N
need-for-speed
Thanks Bert. I just finished replacing the idlers and that fixed the problem! Two pulleys at $18 each !!
I only use a leaf blower to clean the mower. I've never washed my deck. HOWEVER, I usually jump in my salt water pool before mowing, and that has definitely done number on a small part of the deck, and the metal plate that the seat is bolted to. That could very well be what FUBARed the idler pulley bearings. Going forward, I'll sit on a towel when mowing.
I have wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted the affected part of the deck and the plate under the seat.
The bearings you refer to - "cutting out the welds" - are you referring to the spindle bearings ?
I only use a leaf blower to clean the mower. I've never washed my deck. HOWEVER, I usually jump in my salt water pool before mowing, and that has definitely done number on a small part of the deck, and the metal plate that the seat is bolted to. That could very well be what FUBARed the idler pulley bearings. Going forward, I'll sit on a towel when mowing.
I have wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted the affected part of the deck and the plate under the seat.
The bearings you refer to - "cutting out the welds" - are you referring to the spindle bearings ?
#17
B
bertsmobile1
No that was idler bearings.
Idlers are a PIA down here as they are mostly mower parts and funny sizes so the after market companies do not make them or the local wholesaler do not stock them
So in some cases I drill out the welds / rivets holding the 2 sides of the idler together which allows the bearings to come out.
A lot of mucking around but it is nothing to find I get gouged to the order of $ 80 to $ 150 ( Aus ) for a pulley & bearing that I know cost around $ 20.
Idles with good running surfaces get tossed into a box and when I have down time they get the bearings replaced.
Got a customer with a Dixon Ram & the dealer wants $ 145 & $ 112 for the 2 deck idlers.
I can get them in the USA for $ 35 & $ 38 ( US ) + shipping so I know the local system is gouging.
The bearings cost $ 45 retail each & and in hour of work the job was done so for less than 1 genuine factory pulley the customer got 2 pulleys replaced.
There are a lot of dealers down here who believe that once they have sold a customer their brand of mower, they own the customer and have exclusive rights to make money from them.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks Bert. I just finished replacing the idlers and that fixed the problem! Two pulleys at $18 each !!
I only use a leaf blower to clean the mower. I've never washed my deck. HOWEVER, I usually jump in my salt water pool before mowing, and that has definitely done number on a small part of the deck, and the metal plate that the seat is bolted to. That could very well be what FUBARed the idler pulley bearings. Going forward, I'll sit on a towel when mowing.
I have wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted the affected part of the deck and the plate under the seat.
The bearings you refer to - "cutting out the welds" - are you referring to the spindle bearings ?
No that was idler bearings.
Idlers are a PIA down here as they are mostly mower parts and funny sizes so the after market companies do not make them or the local wholesaler do not stock them
So in some cases I drill out the welds / rivets holding the 2 sides of the idler together which allows the bearings to come out.
A lot of mucking around but it is nothing to find I get gouged to the order of $ 80 to $ 150 ( Aus ) for a pulley & bearing that I know cost around $ 20.
Idles with good running surfaces get tossed into a box and when I have down time they get the bearings replaced.
Got a customer with a Dixon Ram & the dealer wants $ 145 & $ 112 for the 2 deck idlers.
I can get them in the USA for $ 35 & $ 38 ( US ) + shipping so I know the local system is gouging.
The bearings cost $ 45 retail each & and in hour of work the job was done so for less than 1 genuine factory pulley the customer got 2 pulleys replaced.
There are a lot of dealers down here who believe that once they have sold a customer their brand of mower, they own the customer and have exclusive rights to make money from them.
#18
N
need-for-speed
daaaayaaam ! That sux that the price is so high. Thanks for the good advice. My mower deck is purring now !
G'Day !!
N
need-for-speed
No that was idler bearings.
Idlers are a PIA down here as they are mostly mower parts and funny sizes so the after market companies do not make them or the local wholesaler do not stock them
So in some cases I drill out the welds / rivets holding the 2 sides of the idler together which allows the bearings to come out.
A lot of mucking around but it is nothing to find I get gouged to the order of $ 80 to $ 150 ( Aus ) for a pulley & bearing that I know cost around $ 20.
Idles with good running surfaces get tossed into a box and when I have down time they get the bearings replaced.
Got a customer with a Dixon Ram & the dealer wants $ 145 & $ 112 for the 2 deck idlers.
I can get them in the USA for $ 35 & $ 38 ( US ) + shipping so I know the local system is gouging.
The bearings cost $ 45 retail each & and in hour of work the job was done so for less than 1 genuine factory pulley the customer got 2 pulleys replaced.
There are a lot of dealers down here who believe that once they have sold a customer their brand of mower, they own the customer and have exclusive rights to make money from them.
daaaayaaam ! That sux that the price is so high. Thanks for the good advice. My mower deck is purring now !
G'Day !!