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Snapper RER 28085S Restore
#1
mattm55
mattm55
#2
Boobala
Boobala
#4
mattm55
mattm55
Attachments
#5
NorthBama
NorthBama
#7
NorthBama
NorthBama
#8
Boobala
Boobala
#9
mattm55
mattm55
#10
NorthBama
NorthBama
#11
mattm55
mattm55
I'm still waiting for a few parts for the rear end and the weather in the northeast to warm up for painting. Yesterday I did get to press in the new rear axle bushings. I used a HF 20 ton press with a set of HF Maddox 10pc Bearing Race and Seal driver kit. The HF stuff works great for this small stuff.
Progress....
Progress....
#12
NorthBama
NorthBama
#13
mattm55
mattm55
OK. I have the heater working in the garage so I can get my pieces primed and painted. Using Rustoleum Gloss Cherry Red for the topcoat.
Making progress and hopefully I'll get the case and front end prepped and painted. I'm thinking I can get the main case into the blast cabinet? Hopefully....
Matt
Making progress and hopefully I'll get the case and front end prepped and painted. I'm thinking I can get the main case into the blast cabinet? Hopefully....
- Seat/Spindles
- Misc pieces
- Rear fender...
Matt
#14
NorthBama
NorthBama
#15
Boobala
Boobala
#16
mattm55
mattm55
Progress being made...
Edit: I also want to credit "jimsfixitshop" videos that I'm referencing. He's got a nice 7 part series rebuilding the Snapper RER. While mentioned below I find things a little different in assembly from his to mine. For those differences, I'll point them out for my 1985 28" Snapper in the forum.
1. I have the chain case all together. Nothing out of the ordinary but I did have some extra play in the hub & sprocket (3/16"). I used my 20 ton press to reshape the case to remove the extra end play. I thought about using shims from the old spacers but the press worked for me.
2. Moving on to the differential, I am following a video which omits a few parts from my build actually. A thrust washer in particular below the 63 tooth gear. I am overriding the video with the manual and parts diagrams whenever necessary. In the diff rebuild, I'm doing the "extra tuff" mod. I am using 8 gears instead of the 4 from the original. I did notice that there are alignment marks to line up with on the gear and top plate as shown in the pic. I haven't noticed any references to these alignment marks online so I wanted to point them out.
3. I gave the wrong color of Rustoleum I was using in a prior post. I am using Rustoleum "Regal Red" which is a little darker than original but pretty close. I am colorblind to red and green though (testing only) ;o)
Matt
Edit: I also want to credit "jimsfixitshop" videos that I'm referencing. He's got a nice 7 part series rebuilding the Snapper RER. While mentioned below I find things a little different in assembly from his to mine. For those differences, I'll point them out for my 1985 28" Snapper in the forum.
1. I have the chain case all together. Nothing out of the ordinary but I did have some extra play in the hub & sprocket (3/16"). I used my 20 ton press to reshape the case to remove the extra end play. I thought about using shims from the old spacers but the press worked for me.
2. Moving on to the differential, I am following a video which omits a few parts from my build actually. A thrust washer in particular below the 63 tooth gear. I am overriding the video with the manual and parts diagrams whenever necessary. In the diff rebuild, I'm doing the "extra tuff" mod. I am using 8 gears instead of the 4 from the original. I did notice that there are alignment marks to line up with on the gear and top plate as shown in the pic. I haven't noticed any references to these alignment marks online so I wanted to point them out.
- Extra Tuff Mod 1
- Extra Tuff Mod Alignment
3. I gave the wrong color of Rustoleum I was using in a prior post. I am using Rustoleum "Regal Red" which is a little darker than original but pretty close. I am colorblind to red and green though (testing only) ;o)
Matt
#17
Boobala
Boobala
#18
mattm55
mattm55
So the last of the larger pieces and luckily the front and rear both fit into the blast cabinet. That just makes paint prep easier. Time for more assembly. Stay tuned....
Matt
Matt
#19
mattm55
mattm55
#20
mattm55
Here is my rear axle spacer from a piece of aluminum round stock I had turned on a Grizzly G0602 variable speed lathe. I wanted to create a spacer thick enough so I could remove the nylon spacers for the initial build. As everything wears, I'll have the nylon spacers to put back in.
Progress... now I have to see about welding up the yoke mount next.
Matt
mattm55
Here is my rear axle spacer from a piece of aluminum round stock I had turned on a Grizzly G0602 variable speed lathe. I wanted to create a spacer thick enough so I could remove the nylon spacers for the initial build. As everything wears, I'll have the nylon spacers to put back in.
Progress... now I have to see about welding up the yoke mount next.
Matt
#21
Boobala
Boobala
#22
mattm55
So the first image shows just how much the yoke attachment is out of round.
My intentions were to Tig weld the hole up but then have to grind away the washers. I went with "Plan B" which was to take a sheet of (1/8") 0.125" steel and fabricate an angled yoke holder. I bent the steel 90 degrees and step drilled a 0.803" hole for the nylon bearing. I then turned a 0.125" thick nylon spacer for the extra width. The new bracket is attached by 2 5/16" bolts through the back. By doing the repair this way I figured I could always replace the angle if it gets worn over welding and keeping the stability of the original bracket for alignment and strength. I think it should work and take up the play.
*Note: On the original yoke attachment where the bend is up from the back of the machine I had to grind/remove the ridge that kept the new bracket from being positioned right up against the original mount.
While the paint dries on the new yoke bracket, I continued putting the rear axle back in.
More to come...
mattm55
So the first image shows just how much the yoke attachment is out of round.
My intentions were to Tig weld the hole up but then have to grind away the washers. I went with "Plan B" which was to take a sheet of (1/8") 0.125" steel and fabricate an angled yoke holder. I bent the steel 90 degrees and step drilled a 0.803" hole for the nylon bearing. I then turned a 0.125" thick nylon spacer for the extra width. The new bracket is attached by 2 5/16" bolts through the back. By doing the repair this way I figured I could always replace the angle if it gets worn over welding and keeping the stability of the original bracket for alignment and strength. I think it should work and take up the play.
*Note: On the original yoke attachment where the bend is up from the back of the machine I had to grind/remove the ridge that kept the new bracket from being positioned right up against the original mount.
While the paint dries on the new yoke bracket, I continued putting the rear axle back in.
More to come...
#23
mattm55
mattm55
Just a few updates to the build...
*One thing I did notice while searching the internet is that while my yoke mounts are cut out/bent from the main case as one piece, there are models where Snapper used a yoke mount bracket similar to my fix but all one piece (both sides). So if this happens again, I might look for that part #.
Thanks for watching
- Rear Axle Boot: OK, mental note to not slather a ton of grease on the hex tube. If you do, or over do, make sure the ends of the boots stay clean. Otherwise you will have the boot want to slip off under extended travel. On, off, clean, rinse and repeat. I had one side just not cooperating!
- Brake & Clutch Cables: I googled trying to find some diagrams of the connections and routing of each cable. Nothing gave a clear picture of how they are connected. Lucky I had the forethought to snap a few images on disassembly. Maybe not the complete route but enough to get it close. Here are the before pics on my model.
- Front End: Working on installing the front end back on the machine with tie rods/king pins and steering. I'll post pics when this step is completed.
*One thing I did notice while searching the internet is that while my yoke mounts are cut out/bent from the main case as one piece, there are models where Snapper used a yoke mount bracket similar to my fix but all one piece (both sides). So if this happens again, I might look for that part #.
Thanks for watching
#24
Boobala
Boobala
#25
mattm55
mattm55
#26
mattm55
mattm55
Progress...
Now I'll have to get some 5/16"x24 studs for the engine as two mounting holes are threaded. Stay tuned for more updates.
Matt
- Main Chassis:
Things are going back together pretty smoothly. The Aux Brake cable I had to think about but with the images and some of the web's videos I did get it routed correctly.
- Engine Pre Mounting:
SO for the engine, I needed to recheck to see if the mounting locations are the same. Otherwise I would either have to redrill or make a new mounting plate. It looks like the 11Hp Briggs and the Honda GXV390-DE have the same mounting holes and crankshaft location, as shown.
11HP Briggs
Briggs Mounting
Honda Mounting Check is the same as the Briggs. Great!
Now I'll have to get some 5/16"x24 studs for the engine as two mounting holes are threaded. Stay tuned for more updates.
Matt
#27
Boobala
Boobala
#28
mattm55
mattm55
#29
mattm55
mattm55
#30
Boobala
Boobala
#31
mattm55
mattm55
#32
Boobala
Boobala
#33
mattm55
mattm55
Thanks for others who have done the Briggs to Honda repower...
The throttle hookup from the Briggs to Honda needs to be modified. The original Briggs cable is about 14" long as shown in the image below.
The cable attached to the Briggs engine horizontally where the Honda will be located vertically. I ordered Part#7075089YP which is the Honda throttle cable. This cable is about 39" long.
Since the mount on the Honda throttle cable was top mounted with 2 screws I decided to take my original throttle handle (side mount) and remove the short cable (straighten z-bend) and replace with the longer 39" cable and bending the z-bend. That way I have my original side mount but with a longer cable. You could just find the longer cable instead of buying the handle and save $. I also added another 10x32 screw in my handle to make it more secure and not want to rotate as the Honda's extended travel is tighter and caused the handle to move.
For the routing of the cable I initially had it looping on the outside but decided to reroute the cable towrds the tank indent so it wouldn't be caught on anything and pull out.
Matt
The throttle hookup from the Briggs to Honda needs to be modified. The original Briggs cable is about 14" long as shown in the image below.
The cable attached to the Briggs engine horizontally where the Honda will be located vertically. I ordered Part#7075089YP which is the Honda throttle cable. This cable is about 39" long.
Since the mount on the Honda throttle cable was top mounted with 2 screws I decided to take my original throttle handle (side mount) and remove the short cable (straighten z-bend) and replace with the longer 39" cable and bending the z-bend. That way I have my original side mount but with a longer cable. You could just find the longer cable instead of buying the handle and save $. I also added another 10x32 screw in my handle to make it more secure and not want to rotate as the Honda's extended travel is tighter and caused the handle to move.
For the routing of the cable I initially had it looping on the outside but decided to reroute the cable towrds the tank indent so it wouldn't be caught on anything and pull out.
Matt
#34
mattm55
mattm55
I think I missed showing the rebuild of the front end. All new bushings, keys and greased. Took the slop out of the steering by adding some extra washers behind the tie rods.
Matt
Matt
#35
mattm55
mattm55
I'm starting on the electrical wiring and in parallel I wanted to start on the 2nd phase of the build. The cutting deck needs to be disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled.
*An impact gun definitely helps with disassembly of the main pulley nut and the blade bar nut. These are on there quite tight. The blade bar is also threaded on so once you remove the nut you need to unscrew the blade bar. My spindle bearings are in good shape so I won't be replacing those.
A pile of bead blasted parts ready for primer and paint. The deck I'll have to do by hand as that is the only part that won't fit into my cabinet.
Matt
*An impact gun definitely helps with disassembly of the main pulley nut and the blade bar nut. These are on there quite tight. The blade bar is also threaded on so once you remove the nut you need to unscrew the blade bar. My spindle bearings are in good shape so I won't be replacing those.
A pile of bead blasted parts ready for primer and paint. The deck I'll have to do by hand as that is the only part that won't fit into my cabinet.
Matt
#36
Boobala
Boobala
Ran across these pics ...thought you might enjoy....
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Got one of my murray pics in there somehow.. cant delete it ..SORRY !!
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......Got one of my murray pics in there somehow.. cant delete it ..SORRY !!
Attachments
#37
mattm55
mattm55
#38
mattm55
mattm55
While waiting for the paint to dry on the deck and deck parts I started working on the electrical wiring of the Snapper. I decided to eliminate the interlock for the cutting deck but kept the interlock for the Park safety switch. It's more likely to try to start in gear than have a start situation with the blade moving.
One other thing is that I am removing the "push button" start and replacing it with a key start so I won't have to reach back and push that button.
Parts List:
I found that the pre-built wiring harness made an easy job as it connects directly to the ignition switch with the ground wire included. This routes thru the tube and has enough wire to make it to the "electrical junction box" area.
Since there seems to be very little on the wiring layout on the internet I will do a simple diagram of how I wired mine up with images to come. I am using this schematic as a good starting reference.
Thanks, Matt
One other thing is that I am removing the "push button" start and replacing it with a key start so I won't have to reach back and push that button.
Parts List:
- Wiring Harness: 7074062YP
- Ignition Switch (4 pole): 7073997YP
- Wire: 16AWG different colors or tape, 6AWG (red & black) for load to battery off solenoid
- Connectors: 16AWG & 6AWG
- Solenoid (4 pole): A generic solenoid with 3 or 4 poles from AMZ for $10.
- In-line Fuse: 10 amp in-line fuse block
I found that the pre-built wiring harness made an easy job as it connects directly to the ignition switch with the ground wire included. This routes thru the tube and has enough wire to make it to the "electrical junction box" area.
Since there seems to be very little on the wiring layout on the internet I will do a simple diagram of how I wired mine up with images to come. I am using this schematic as a good starting reference.
Thanks, Matt
#39
mattm55
mattm55
Here is a simple wiring diagram for the Snapper Honda GXV-390 repower.
1. In my haste I didn't realize the Honda already had a solenoid next to the starter. I already had a generic solenoid mounted and decided to use mine, In the case it ever goes bad, I'll switch over to the Honda's. So in my diagram I only used the Honda's solenoid lug that went to the starter.
2. In my diagram I did not show the inline 10 A fuse on the Battery side of my solenoid. If you need me to draw or explain, just send me an email. It's pretty simple to add.
Matt
1. In my haste I didn't realize the Honda already had a solenoid next to the starter. I already had a generic solenoid mounted and decided to use mine, In the case it ever goes bad, I'll switch over to the Honda's. So in my diagram I only used the Honda's solenoid lug that went to the starter.
2. In my diagram I did not show the inline 10 A fuse on the Battery side of my solenoid. If you need me to draw or explain, just send me an email. It's pretty simple to add.
Matt
#40
mattm55
mattm55
The deck is complete and ready to be mounted.
Before :
After:
Matt ;o)
Before :
After:
Matt ;o)
#41
mattm55
mattm55
I made quite a bit of progress over the weekend...
1. Installed the deck back onto the main frame.
2. Installed a fresh belt and adjusted the tension to slip enough when cutter not engaged. I had to loosen the tube clamp and make the adjustments to the belt and then recheck that all my pedals had enough free play with the tube being moved back about 1/4". I didn't have to add an adjustments to the cable .
3. A new blade and lift kit was installed.
4. Adjusted the shift linkage so that neutral and park lined up in the correct location.
*On my engine drive disk I had made a nice tool on the recommendations on the internet and manual I downloaded. The 3 3/4" - 3 13/16" distance did not work for me. That was way too low so I had to improvise and set it by feel. I let the drive disk touch the disk and then moved the pedal throw to get a little more pressure. For me, the distance was set at ~3.5". I will try it and adjust as necessary/wear.
5. Mounted the bottle holder to the steering column.
6. Added gas and oil (38.2 oz of 10w30)
7. Connected charged battery
All done right? Well, as I tried to start the engine there was nothing. Hmm, ahh... the parking switch had to be on and I just had it in the neutral position. Nope, still nothing. Time to get out the meter and recheck my connections. When I pulled the box cover off I found the blue solenoid wire came off. Connected that and voila.... she runs! Success.
I took a few pictures in the garage after a test run...
...and a few passes cutting. Then out in the front for a few pics to close out this build.
Everything went pretty smooth and the Briggs to Honda conversion was almost bolt on. Not too bad for a 32 year old mower.
If anyone has any questions, just let me know.
Now it will be on to cutting the grass.
Thanks for following my build.
Matt
1. Installed the deck back onto the main frame.
2. Installed a fresh belt and adjusted the tension to slip enough when cutter not engaged. I had to loosen the tube clamp and make the adjustments to the belt and then recheck that all my pedals had enough free play with the tube being moved back about 1/4". I didn't have to add an adjustments to the cable .
3. A new blade and lift kit was installed.
4. Adjusted the shift linkage so that neutral and park lined up in the correct location.
*On my engine drive disk I had made a nice tool on the recommendations on the internet and manual I downloaded. The 3 3/4" - 3 13/16" distance did not work for me. That was way too low so I had to improvise and set it by feel. I let the drive disk touch the disk and then moved the pedal throw to get a little more pressure. For me, the distance was set at ~3.5". I will try it and adjust as necessary/wear.
5. Mounted the bottle holder to the steering column.
6. Added gas and oil (38.2 oz of 10w30)
7. Connected charged battery
All done right? Well, as I tried to start the engine there was nothing. Hmm, ahh... the parking switch had to be on and I just had it in the neutral position. Nope, still nothing. Time to get out the meter and recheck my connections. When I pulled the box cover off I found the blue solenoid wire came off. Connected that and voila.... she runs! Success.
I took a few pictures in the garage after a test run...
...and a few passes cutting. Then out in the front for a few pics to close out this build.
Everything went pretty smooth and the Briggs to Honda conversion was almost bolt on. Not too bad for a 32 year old mower.
If anyone has any questions, just let me know.
Now it will be on to cutting the grass.
Thanks for following my build.
Matt
#42
Boobala
Boobala
#43
mattm55
mattm55
#44
mattm55
mattm55
Re: Snapper RER 28085S Restore - Electrical Wiring Update
I have added an updated electrical wiring diagram to show my 10 A fuse and the safety interlock location.
Thanks, Matt
I have added an updated electrical wiring diagram to show my 10 A fuse and the safety interlock location.
Thanks, Matt
#46
mattm55
mattm55