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How many times can you use the chain saw before you sharpen it? I've been cutting with my Stihl chain saw for about 2 months (every weekend). I notice it is not cutting as nice as it was when I first bought it. How often would you sharpen the blades? I've got the files here to do it, I just am unsure of how often.

Sometimes you will need to sharpen the chain several times a day, depending of the wood you are cutting. Watch the size of the chips the saw is throwing out, if you notice saw dust and small chips it's way past time to sharpen it. After you sharpen it a few times, don't forget to file down the raker teeth between the cutting teeth. Always file each tooth the same number of strokes, to keep the teeth the same size.
If the chain ever runs into dirt or rocks, it will dull a chain in a hurry!

Do yourself a favor and buy a blade sharpener. I have a Oregon 510A sharpener. It's some of the best money I ever spent. I hate dull blades and if I am doing a lot of sawing I will sharpen my blade daily.

I have an Oregon 511 and it is great. Northern Tool has a knock off version that is very good also. Buy one and spend lots of time practicing with it to match the angles that a new chan has. Take your time and it will be very worthwhile knowledge to have.

I take a file to my saw blade every other fill up it just takes a few minutes if I've cut a lot I will use my electric saw sharpener by harbor freight works great easy to use.

Hi Question about your harbor freight chain saw sharpner ,was it hard to get it set up to sharpen blades i have one but have not taken a lot of time to study the book and see how to do it it look like it would take some time to figure it out . Any tricks you have learned from it? thanks

A lot depends on the quality of the chain, type of wood and how much dirt the chain sees.
I have my best luck with Stihl brand chain, on one saw that only cuts 'clean' wood, the chain can last months, on a saw that's felling trees or working close to the ground, where it's likely that there's some dirt or sand in the bark or when cutting hardwood, the blade can last considerably less time. I have both a portable sharpener, as well as an electric sharpener from Harbor Freight. The HF sharpener works fine but I find that I only use that for major resharpening jobs, I can use the portable to touch up a chain that's not real bad.
I also have 10 or 12 spare chains for each saw, and all are kept sharp and ready to use so when working, all I need to do is swap out the chain if one fails to cut properly or gets dull.

An OLD friend taught me this about 35 years ago (wonder what that makes me now....)
I use a hand file on the chain with almost each tank of gas. four or five passes on each tooth. I don't think it takes 5 minutes. I never use anything other than the round file, and maybe once in a while I may take the chain in for a "professional sharpening" (but that is rare)... The chain should throw "chips," any sign of "dust" or "fines" means that you should spend more time with the file (or stop letting other folks use it and just buy another chain). I have never used a "guide" or a grinder, it takes some practice, but IF I can do it, anyone can....

The "best" way to keep the saw sharp is to BUY sons and sons-in-laws nice "stihl-xmas-gifts"....

Elcid76 said:

The "best" way to keep the saw sharp is to BUY sons and sons-in-laws nice "stihl-xmas-gifts"....

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I second that!:biggrin::biggrin:

I have used a chainsaw for about 25 years and I have always used a round file on the teeth. I have never filed down the "drags" or whatever the correct term is. I do have a cheater on the file though. I got it at Wal-Mart. It attaches to the file, and it shows the correct angle you should file. Every time I file it, it cuts like a brand new chain. Unless I get it in the dirt, then it is time to file again. Worst thing in the world for a chainsaw is dirt!

I use a stihl pole saw with a 12" chain and a MS460 for the bigger stuff. I sharpen the chain every use.
When the best of my efforts don't get me a clean cut I have the local saw repair shop sharpen the chain. Usually about 10 chains at a time...

scoyt said:

I have used a chainsaw for about 25 years and I have always used a round file on the teeth. I have never filed down the "drags" or whatever the correct term is. I do have a cheater on the file though. I got it at Wal-Mart. It attaches to the file, and it shows the correct angle you should file. Every time I file it, it cuts like a brand new chain. Unless I get it in the dirt, then it is time to file again. Worst thing in the world for a chainsaw is dirt!

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Same here on the file! I've used saws longer than that & have never used anything but the correct sized round file. If kept sharp, you won't need to file the drags! Depends on what you're cutting, for me, usually 3 strokes of the file every tank of gas will keep it in good shape.

Keep in mind filing a chain is a learned Art, some people will not be able to get it, and that's OK, just do it the way it work s for you. ~~ grnspot110

I also have always used a round file to do my chain since I was 14 year old - we couldn't afford to have them professionally sharpened so it was born of necessity. Its been close to 40 years now and I haven't found anything easier.

Now I tend to only cut for a tank or two of gas and on a Husky 262 that means maybe 8 - 10 14" trees. I hit each tooth with four or so strokes before each day's cutting and this takes about 15 minutes. I only file the raker height when the teeth are about half used up.

If I do hit a rock it means stopping and doing a major filing job - it's hard enough work without forcing the saw through the wood. I have a vernier caliper so that I can maintain the length of each tooth to the same approximate size. I did just buy diamond coated files that I haven't tried yet. I'm hoping they last longer than the standard files which seem to be getting more cheaply made - probably a product of the Far East. I'll get back to you on how this works.

Even if you're just cutting a few pieces of wood each day you definitely need to sharpen your saw by now! It takes some practice, but not too hard to learn - at least for "touch-up" sharpening.

Checkout Chain Saw Sharpeners Guide website for some good information about sharpening your chainsaw. It's not the prettiest site, but it will help you learn the basics.

T Bridger said:

Even if you're just cutting a few pieces of wood each day you definitely need to sharpen your saw by now! It takes some practice, but not too hard to learn - at least for "touch-up" sharpening.

Checkout Chain Saw Sharpeners Guide website for some good information about sharpening your chainsaw. It's not the prettiest site, but it will help you learn the basics.

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Wise words & Great link..

My Daddy taught me how to sharpen chains when I started using the saw @ age 15... I do have a Northern sharpener and a Foley Bellsaw attachment, but seldom use either... I sharpen as neede to keep the saw cutting good. Usually 3 swipes as needed. I'm using a spray weld carbide chain from;
http://cutterschoice.com/aboutus_us.shtml

I have used a few different sharpeners but always seem to go back to the file.
I will defintily have to look up those diamond coated ones. The files I get seem to dull pretty quick nowdays. Also I don't worry about keeping the teeth the same lenght. Doesn't seem to matter much if I file a bunch on one tooth because I hit something, still cuts fine.

Wow, a lot of different answers here. I sharpen mine with a file. It takes forever. I put the blade in a vise grip and then sharpen each tooth with the file. I'm thinking it's time to sharpen it. It does push out a lot of saw dust.

I've seen a quote "if i had six hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend 4 hours sharpening my axe." Seems this would also apply to chainsaws, the 15 or 20 minutes to "brush" each tooth will be more than paid back each day of cutting. My saw is generally for storm clean up, so I always put it away sharp. Clamp bar in the bench vice facing to my right, 5 strokes on each tooth from the outside towards the root, then turn the saw to face to my left and 5 strokes on all the alternate teeth, from the outside towards the root. It's how I was taught by my uncle the woodcutter.