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I have a two-year old HRX. It's about the best mower I've ever used, and I love the ability to mulch and bag (or in between) with a flip of the Clip Director knob. The cut quality is stunning on both the Fescue in the backyard and Bermuda in the front. Of course, I'm a little biased about Honda stuff...:biggrin:


Anyway, I made a couple of mods to improve the ergonomics a bit. First, moved the starter rope off the handlebar where it was getting caught on shrubs and fencing, and then replaced the small, plastic recoil starter grip with an older, larger, rubber grip with a metal support. Much easier and more solid grip when starting, especially if wearing gloves. Being down on the recoil starter means it's not going to snag, either.


Last summer, I helped one of my sons restore an old Schwinn 10-speed. We put padded cork wrap on the handlebars, and I was amazed at the comfort and grip this made. So, I got some more and wrapped all the levers on the HRX. It helps a great deal and cuts down on the vibrations to your hands. Easy, inexpensive, and really works.

Nice mods.

AWESOME!! Thanks for sharing!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who does modifications to their Hondas.:biggrin:

Hi Robert, Excellent modifications on your mower, not only for aestetics but for functionality as well. Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

I have one more mod, but it's involved. Any tips would be appreciated.

A few years ago, Honda adopted an ANSI standard that lengthen the handlebars. I suspect it was to give a little more space between the operator and the spinning blades, even though all mowers are supposed to not permit an operator to get anywhere near the blades when moving.

I've found it's a bit too long, and makes it hard turn turn the mower, so want to shorten the handlebar maybe 6" or so. It's a hollow tube, with flattened tips to allow the bolts and quick-release knob to work. Not sure how to remove 6", as I don't weld. Ideas?

Are the handles for the HRM/HRB215 series shorter? Would it be possible to obtain the upper and lower handles to one of them, transfer the controls from yours to the upper handle, and not have to alter the one you have? That would also give the the ability to fold the handle for storage.

Another possibility would be to determine the inside diameter of the handle pipes you have. Find a pipe that has the same outside diameter at the inside diameter of the handle you have. Cut two lengths of that pipe, maybe a foot long each, then cut 6" out of the handle on the mower. Insert the two pipes into the ends of the handle, drill holes through them all at a couple of places below and above the point they come together, and put bolts with lock nuts through the to hold the sections securely so they won't separate.

The mower service engineer says the longer length was indeed an ANSI standard to move the operator's hands father away from the blades.

Because of the quick-release fittings, the current HRX handle is the only one that would fit okay. So no swap, I'd have to modify the original.

Shortening the handlebar would require three shorter cables too, clutch, blade, and throttle :-(

If I though it would weld okay, I'd be tempted to cut out 6" of each side, then find a slightly larger sleeve to re-connect them. Like when a plumber cuts out a cracked copper pipe and uses sleeves and a new pipe to solder it all back together.

Then try and shorten the cables. Not sure it's worth it.

Hmmm....well, how about the lower handle stays that attach to the deck. Could the ones from the HRM/HRB be used, or is the HRX deck different at those mounting points? If the handle stays would fit, then you could use the upper and lower handles from an HRM/HRB.

Would the cables pose that much of a problem if they weren't shortened? Or, if the handles from an HRM/HRB can be used, could those cables work too?

robert@honda said:

Last summer, I helped one of my sons restore an old Schwinn 10-speed. We put padded cork wrap on the handlebars, and I was amazed at the comfort and grip this made. So, I got some more and wrapped all the levers on the HRX. It helps a great deal and cuts down on the vibrations to your hands. Easy, inexpensive, and really works.

Click to expand...

I'm tempted to do something like this on my Honda because it has been cold out lately, and I realized the one thing my Honda HRR is better than my HRX is that it has a padded handle! And rubber is less cold than metal! My hands were freezing! Yes I know I could wear gloves, but I like customizing better! :thumbsup:

Cut off the bottom smash with hammer drill holes for bolts use smaller flat head hammer smooth it out paint walla

Shortening the handle by cutting a section out of the middle would be your best bet. You really don't have to shorten the cables. They are anchored at each end and should still work properly. You may have to get a few zip ties to anchor the excess cable to the handle, so it doesn't snag.

The cork wrap is a great idea! I'm going to copy for my HRX217 - thanks Robert!

lawn mower fanatic said:

I'm tempted to do something like this on my Honda because it has been cold out lately, and I realized the one thing my Honda HRR is better than my HRX is that it has a padded handle! And rubber is less cold than metal! My hands were freezing! Yes I know I could wear gloves, but I like customizing better! :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

I used Foam rubber A/C lines insulation ( the kind used on A/C unit lines in your house ) get in Lowes or H/D REALLY cheap ! try to find the type that is slit down the center with self sealing sticky-stuff on the slit. ..:thumbsup:

Robert,
I see the kits for bicycle handlebar wraps. They are held on by plugs on the ends. How did you secure them?
Another mod, which I have is the stainless steel scrape shields on the sides. I also have modded the chute add on to work. This allows you to blow grass to the right.
This is great to blow the leaves and clean off the walkway. I have also added the striping kit.

Ava.Feret said:

Robert,
I see the kits for bicycle handlebar wraps. They are held on by plugs on the ends. How did you secure them?
Another mod, which I have is the stainless steel scrape shields on the sides. I also have modded the chute add on to work. This allows you to blow grass to the right.
This is great to blow the leaves and clean off the walkway. I have also added the striping kit.

Click to expand...

Maybe I see a black tyrap. Did you have to re adjust the cables?

Well, I did the same and I love it! And yes I had to re adjust the cables. And I used ty raps.

I'm stealing this cork wrap idea! My HRX217 shakes like a freakin' paint mixer compared to my HR515 Masters ... even with blade disengaged.

It should not shake like a paint mixer. The HXA has a weighted balanced flywheel. I am wondering if the engine was changed. Also the HXA will last longer because it basically has 2 flywheels. The blade and the weighted flywheel.

As Rivets said Robert. Cut out the required section.
I would mark where i wished to do this, then cut with tube/pipe cutters. Don't force the cut action because you will 'fold' in the tube more than necessary. You could part cut and finish with a hacksaw too, if you wished.
Anyway, clean the tube ends with a file and insert lengths of alloy or use the cut out tube sections. If you use the cut out section, cut them lengthwise with a grinding disc ( be careful here) What you will end up with is over size tension pins:wink:
Insert/drive these in equidistant and rivet in place. If the handle tubes are too light in section, scrounge up some heavier wall material and follow on as described.
Or take it to your friendly welder and get him to TIG/Mig the join. Any engineer will know how to do this successfully.
By the way, NICE mower.

Edit:
Good grief!! I just realised how old this thread is lol
I assume you have the handle sorted by now Robert?? :biggrin:

Rivets said:

Shortening the handle by cutting a section out of the middle would be your best bet. You really don't have to shorten the cables. They are anchored at each end and should still work properly. You may have to get a few zip ties to anchor the excess cable to the handle, so it doesn't snag.

Click to expand...

+1.
Maybe find something that will fit the inside diameter of the tubing to join the two ends that were cut and drill and put a bolt and nut for fastener. No welding.