Export thread

repair

#1

C

cambre

I have a Craftsman ZTS7500 that bucks & lurches, almost throws me off the mower. It's several years old & has 2080 hrs on it. I took the belly mower off a few years ago & use it to tow a utility wagon to haul stuff around my 11 acres. It runs very good. It started creeping forward on its own when I got off of it. I adjusted the brake spring back to 3 inches, it was 5 inches. That didn't help, in fact it made it worse. It really bucks hard when it starts moving but levels out when handles are pushed all the way forward. It also bucks when you stop it. The transaxles are full of oil. Any help will be appreciated.


#2

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
I have a Craftsman ZTS7500 that bucks & lurches, almost throws me off the mower. It's several years old & has 2080 hrs on it. I took the belly mower off a few years ago & use it to tow a utility wagon to haul stuff around my 11 acres. It runs very good. It started creeping forward on its own when I got off of it. I adjusted the brake spring back to 3 inches, it was 5 inches. That didn't help, in fact it made it worse. It really bucks hard when it starts moving but levels out when handles are pushed all the way forward. It also bucks when you stop it. The transaxles are full of oil. Any help will be appreciated.
Click to expand...


I'm not familiair with your model mower but here's a manual for your trans. it may help in some way... ..http://www.hydro-gear.com/af4008182e_sites/hydro-gear.com/files/ezt-_zt-2100-2200_.pdf
At least I THINK this is the right manual, Have you checked your belts ?? ..:confused2: ..Boobala


#3

C

cambre

Thanks for the answer Boobala, the trans manual you sent looks like what I have. Hope I can find a clue abour what causes this.


#4

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
Thanks for the answer Boobala, the trans manual you sent looks like what I have. Hope I can find a clue abour what causes this.
Click to expand...


Stay with the forum... there are many members that may have your problem but have yet to see your posting .. some things take time... if I can find anything else , you will hear from me again
best of luck with your issue......... Boobala ..:thumbsup:


#5

C

cambre

Thanks Boobala, you asked about the trans belt. It's like new, only a year old. I do keep visiting the forum often. My email lets me know when I have answer on the forum. I have gotten a lot of help here.


#6

NorthBama

NorthBama

I would think with 2080 hours the transmission has some wear to it.


#7

Boobala

Boobala

NorthBama said:
I would think with 2080 hours the transmission has some wear to it.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the hour-meter may NOT have been replaced ( hour meters will clock up time even though the machine itself is not running ,..depending on just how the meter is wired into the unit )
But the trans MUST have been re-placed ...thats a LOT of running hours on a piece of equipment ???
If THAT trans has THAT many hours on it ... I want to know everything about IT !!! UN-REAL !!
One helluva trans to hold up that long ...Boobala


#8

C

cambre

Boobala, The timer shuts off when the key is off. An air cooled engine usually doesn't last this long. The hrs are correct. The mower is 10 years old. Only thing I did to trans was change an axle seal & let the oil drain out. I filled that side with fresh oil. I don't remember if I changed oil in the other side. The engine starter went bad & I replaced it, also put a new carb & adjust the valves when needed. I have always taken care of my equipment, cars, trucks, two tractors & a commercial Grasshopper mower, plus weed eaters, a DR brush cutter, two generators, one gas welder & others. I'm 78 yrs. old & my equipment have always lasted a long time. I have always been curious & want to know what causes this bucking. Thanks for the interest.


#9

C

cambre

NorthBama said:
I would think with 2080 hours the transmission has some wear to it.
Click to expand...

Thanks NorthBama.


#10

NorthBama

NorthBama

if the lurching started after the oil was added it may have air in the 0il. Nor sure how to best bleed the air out maybe some help in the transmission manual.


#11

C

cambre

It will self bleed by driving forward & backward & turning one way & then the other.


#12

C

cambre

Boobala said:
I was thinking the hour-meter may NOT have been replaced ( hour meters will clock up time even though the machine itself is not running ,..depending on just how the meter is wired into the unit )
But the trans MUST have been re-placed ...thats a LOT of running hours on a piece of equipment ???
If THAT trans has THAT many hours on it ... I want to know everything about IT !!! UN-REAL !!
One helluva trans to hold up that long ...Boobala
Click to expand...

The trans is original, I bought the mower new.


#13

NorthBama

NorthBama

doing some searching I did find this information for purging air out of the hydros

"The following procedures should be performed with the vehicle drive wheels off the ground, then repeated under normal operating conditions. 1. With the bypass valve open and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 or 6 times), as air is purged from the unit, the oil level will drop. 2. With the bypass valve closed and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 to 6 times). Check the oil level, and add oil as required after stopping the engine. 3. It may be necessary to repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all the air is completely purged from the system. When the transaxle moves forward and reverse at normal speed purging is complete."


#14

C

cambre

NorthBama said:
doing some searching I did find this information for purging air out of the hydros

"The following procedures should be performed with the vehicle drive wheels off the ground, then repeated under normal operating conditions. 1. With the bypass valve open and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 or 6 times), as air is purged from the unit, the oil level will drop. 2. With the bypass valve closed and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 to 6 times). Check the oil level, and add oil as required after stopping the engine. 3. It may be necessary to repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all the air is completely purged from the system. When the transaxle moves forward and reverse at normal speed purging is complete."
Click to expand...

Thanks for correct way to purge.


#15

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
Thanks for correct way to purge.
Click to expand...

Cambre... Please keep us up-dated .. and kudos for a great maint. pgm. you must have...GLAD to see you get your moneys worth from your machines... YESSIR ...maintenance is the secret !! ..:thumbsup::
WHOA .... just remembered .. more info..

...https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0803095.pdf

...http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/zts7500/0247/1506000.html

and I just noticed this in the sears parts manual....LURCHING.JPG

just in case you don't have these anymore ... Boobala


#16

C

cambre

Do you run that red mower with the V8 engine at Daytona? Thanks for the info, will keep you posted. If I don't go nuts first I will find the cause.


#17

NorthBama

NorthBama

I admire you sir for your patients and determination to fix the problem.


#18

C

cambre

Boobala, the Searsparts direct questions & answers says the hydraulic pumps may need adjusting. Do you know how this is done?


#19

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
Do you run that red mower with the V8 engine at Daytona? Thanks for the info, will keep you posted. If I don't go nuts first I will find the cause.
Click to expand...

Actually That is NOT my mower ( wishing it was ) belongs to another wild N crazy guy !!! .... Mine is that black Murray
.........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAjObHbOn9U

Patience will prevail.....:laughing:


#20

C

cambre

Boobala said:
Actually That is NOT my mower ( wishing it was ) belongs to another wild N crazy guy !!! .... Mine is that black Murray
.........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAjObHbOn9U

Patience will prevail.....:laughing:
Click to expand...

Thanks for sending the tractor pull videos, enjoyed them all.


#21

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
Boobala, the Searsparts direct questions & answers says the hydraulic pumps may need adjusting. Do you know how this is done?
Click to expand...

I don't know what they mean by pump ADJUSTMENT ... I see nothing in the manual about it... unless they meant ..PURGING ...
I would go through the manual and be sure it's purged and ALL external adjustments are correct ...

...http://www.hydro-gear.com/8e4088790...hp-t3-hd-integrated-hydrostatic-transaxle.pdf

THIS should be the correct manual ... check the sticker on your trans. ( if its still there & readable )


#22

C

cambre

Boobala, I don't know what they mean by adjustment of the pump either. This trans does not have one, think they were talking about bigger trans. I believe the trans is purged. If start moving forward at idle it will not buck,then I can increase speed to full throttle & it runs normal. If I try to go forward at 1/4 throttle I will almost get thrown off. It's like the mechanical bull at Gillies.

Thanks Boobala & NorthBama fo the help.


#23

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
Boobala, I don't know what they mean by adjustment of the pump either. This trans does not have one, think they were talking about bigger trans. I believe the trans is purged. If start moving forward at idle it will not buck,then I can increase speed to full throttle & it runs normal. If I try to go forward at 1/4 throttle I will almost get thrown off. It's like the mechanical bull at Gillies.

Thanks Boobala & NorthBama fo the help.
Click to expand...

Well if all else fails .... maybe ...
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-.../HYDRO-GEAR-HYDROSTATIC-TRANSAXLE-13-1576.axd
Trouble is ...these wont last long... I THINK ... some outfit buys them up then re-sells them @
a BIG Profit...:frown:


#24

C

cambre

Thanks for info Boobala.


#25

C

cambre

I checked all the linkage yesterday. Cleaned everything & checked that all bolts & screws were tight. Not any adjustments that I could find except the control levers. Found a crack in the frame caused from the extreme bucking that I welded. After doing all that the bucking is 80% better. I don't know the one thing I did to make it better, but its a lot better. I use this old mower every day for some chore & I have a lot of them. I haven't mowed grass with it for several years. I removed the belly years ago. Its not unusual to run this thing 5 or 6 hrs a day. The running hrs add up fast. The 26 HP Kohler engine still runs good. I,m shooting for 3000 hrs. Wish me luck.


#26

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
I checked all the linkage yesterday. Cleaned everything & checked that all bolts & screws were tight. Not any adjustments that I could find except the control levers. Found a crack in the frame caused from the extreme bucking that I welded. After doing all that the bucking is 80% better. I don't know the one thing I did to make it better, but its a lot better. I use this old mower every day for some chore & I have a lot of them. I haven't mowed grass with it for several years. I removed the belly years ago. Its not unusual to run this thing 5 or 6 hrs a day. The running hrs add up fast. The 26 HP Kohler engine still runs good. I,m shooting for 3000 hrs. Wish me luck.
Click to expand...

FANTASTIC... 3000 hours That would be something to see !! PLEASE keep us informed, ... and do you think there's any chance of some pics of this " HERO " of a machine ??? Wow cracked frame , Ehhh
funny how we never think of things like that right away.. maybe metal fatigue ..?? or just bad design in that area.. ?? OK cambre ...later .. Boobala ..:thumbsup:


#27

C

cambre

Thanks for the interest. I'm not very sharp on copy & paste, but I have a neighbor who is a very good friend who will do it for me. Last time I looked it had 2091 hrs.


#28

NorthBama

NorthBama

I have never seen a home owner mower with that many hours great work on upkeep.


#29

C

cambre

NorthBama, I don't care for oil additives, but I do use Lucas oil additive to prevent dry starts. Lucas makes a lot of products,the oil additive is the only one I use in the engine & I'm sure that has a lot to do with it running so long. The last time I added oil to the trans I used Lucas trans additive, its suppose to keep the oil seals soft & helps prevent leaks. Thanks for the post.


#30

Boobala

Boobala

cambre said:
NorthBama, I don't care for oil additives, but I do use Lucas oil additive to prevent dry starts. Lucas makes a lot of products,the oil additive is the only one I use in the engine & I'm sure that has a lot to do with it running so long. The last time I added oil to the trans I used Lucas trans additive, its suppose to keep the oil seals soft & helps prevent leaks. Thanks for the post.
Click to expand...

About Lucas products , ...... I cant praise them enough.. I use the fuel injector cleaner and the oil additive ,.. but thats all so far ... I could go on & on about it , ... but ...another time ........ Boobala


#31

C

cambre

Boobala said:
About Lucas products , ...... I cant praise them enough.. I use the fuel injector cleaner and the oil additive ,.. but thats all so far ... I could go on & on about it , ... but ...another time ........ Boobala
Click to expand...

Boobala, I agree.


#32

C

cambre

cambre said:
Boobala, I agree.
Click to expand...

Hi Guys, here is a link to my lawn mower pictures and a short video of it actually running: <http://www.smithtrax.com/dell.html>.
Just a video link to the mower running on YouTube is here: <https://youtu.be/knLnhBWqXbg>


#33

NorthBama

NorthBama

nice video and pictures thanks for sharing with us


#34

C

cambre

NorthBama said:
nice video and pictures thanks for sharing with us
Click to expand...

Thanks, I put 5 hrs. on it yesterday.


Footer Links 1

Top