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Question about the choke/throttle lever 2005 LT1000

#1

Cusser

Cusser

Although I've had this LT1000 for 15 years, I still am unclear about the choke/throttle lever. For starting, the instruction/owner's manual states "Move throttle control to choke position.". Well, this lever has the drawing of a turtle at the bottom position, and a rabbit at the top (and in the middle it states something like "here for mowing". I used my little brain and figure turtle is slow and rabbit is fast. But WTF is the $$^^#$&*&%$$#%^& CHOKE POSITION ?????

I'm basically asking for help to make starting the engine easier, it cranks strong and fine. Most times I have to sparay in starting fluid to get it to start; on its previous engine I had to add a spring from the hardware store to help its choke close, but haven't done anything like this with the current engine (which is about 5 years old).


#2

dougand3

dougand3

The engine model would help. eg for Briggs: 28N707-1234-E1. You can push the lever all the way past fast, remove air filter, then look in carb throat and see if choke butterfly is closed.


#3

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

I just fixed up an lt1000, choke is throttle all the way up,.


#4

Cusser

Cusser

Engine Briggs & Stratton 31C707 type 0230-E1 (31C7070230E1)

I think that the choke was a little stuck in the open position, I freed it up with my finger.

On the original engine, after a few years its choke butterfly got stuck in the closed position, so engine would bog down once it warmed up, why I added a spring, so it would operate as it should. The little horizontal black lever on the butterfly even had a hole in it for a spring already !!!


#5

Mower King

Mower King

You said you changed engines. Some engines are designed to use 1 cable to activate the choke and the throttle also, while others use 2 cables, 1 for the choke and 1 for the throttle....all being the same brand engine.


#6

Cusser

Cusser

Looked and hooked up same as on the original engine: 1 lever, and just a single cable.


#7

Mower King

Mower King

Cusser said:
Looked and hooked up same as on the original engine: 1 lever, and just a single cable.
Click to expand...
It (the cable) probably needs to be adjusted then, 1 cable that works both choke and throttle, can be a little tricky to get it just right to where you have full choke on, then full choke off, and still have full throttle!


#8

Cusser

Cusser

Got it, took a better look with "fresh eyes". Cannot on this engine look straight down and see the choke butterfly itself.

Yes, full up position of lever is choked by a steel rod pushing forward, with air amount being decreased so mixture is richer. Once one pulls down the lever to about 60% up, the choke is out of the situation, and the choke bimetallic spring returns the butterfly to be fully open. So thanks for helping me clarify this.

I'll keep an eye on the choke butterfly lever to make sure that it's operating correctly and not hindered by dirt/wear.


#9

Cusser

Cusser

Cusser said:
Got it, took a better look with "fresh eyes". Cannot on this engine look straight down and see the choke butterfly itself without unbolting a tube, and I would need to re-use the same gasket, so that's not for now

I'll keep an eye on the choke butterfly lever to make sure that it's operating correctly and not hindered by dirt/wear.
Click to expand...

I went out and with lever in the top position, the engine started right up, hasn't done that in a couple of years. So I think that the butterfly was stuck in the open position, so engine hadn't been getting a richer mixture to start. But now the choke is operating properly, like it was designed to do, so I won't touch it. But I'll keep this in mind for the future. Thanks for all your help !!!


#10

Cusser

Cusser

OK, no rain so far this summer, so no new weeds. But I did try today to start up the lawn tractor, started right up, again, no need to spray in any starting fluid. So I'm convinced that the choke was stuck open, and I had freed that up, so now it chokes (closed) in the up position and then releases. So now I'll watch for that, and add spring or clean up if necessary.

Good time for me to do an oil and filter change on it; maybe tomorrow.


#11

Mower King

Mower King

Cusser said:
OK, no rain so far this summer, so no new weeds. But I did try today to start up the lawn tractor, started right up, again, no need to spray in any starting fluid. So I'm convinced that the choke was stuck open, and I had freed that up, so now it chokes (closed) in the up position and then releases. So now I'll watch for that, and add spring or clean up if necessary.

Good time for me to do an oil and filter change on it; maybe tomorrow.
Click to expand...
That's a good report.....other than no rain ;-(


#12

Cusser

Cusser

Well, was only 100F here yesterday, not the 117F Phoenix had....have to wear few clothes...

I still think better instructions/labeling by Craftsman would've helped here.


#13

Mower King

Mower King

Cusser said:
Well, was only 100F here yesterday, not the 117F Phoenix had....have to wear few clothes...

I still think better instructions/labeling by Craftsman would've helped here.
Click to expand...
Sometimes fewer clothes is better......it depends on what the mirror tells you! ;)


#14

Cusser

Cusser

I changed the oil yesterday on the Briggs & Stratton 31P677 engine. The oil drain plug is located in a terrible location.
6KrKJBe.jpg


Oil drain tubes are available commercially, like Drainzit, but I would've needed to order that, so had parts to make my own drain tube accessory.
ouvJTtV.jpg


This tube will just be capped and secured for use until next oil change.
ab6ExOg.jpg

yhqpPEO.jpg


The short oil filter is on the opposite side of the engine, and even with oil drained out already, a piece of aluminum foil was needed to direct leakage off the chassis while changing filters.


#15

wrldtvlr

wrldtvlr

It's not just B&S. The Kawasaki on my Cadet looks almost the same. I like your solutions. Much better than stuffing the pan with shop rags.


#16

Mower King

Mower King

Good job!!


#17

Cusser

Cusser

Drainzit #1438 would work as well, I just didn't feel like ordering/waiting. https://www.amazon.com/Drainzit-Oil-Changing-Aid-STAN1438/dp/B000PDN3HY


#18

Bob E

Bob E

I saved this drain pipe from an old craftsman lawn tractor and keep transplanting it onto my new one. It outlived the Craftsman, an MTD, and I guarantee it will outlive this POS poulan. I've also seen guys use water pipe with an elbow on the end.
Those conjoined throttle and choke levers work fine in the summer, but in winter I find I often want a low idle, and may need a little choke. I bought a universal choke lever within the first week of ownership and never looked back.

IMG_2579.JPG IMG_2577.JPG


#19

S

slomo

Cusser said:
Got it, took a better look with "fresh eyes". Cannot on this engine look straight down and see the choke butterfly itself.

Yes, full up position of lever is choked by a steel rod pushing forward, with air amount being decreased so mixture is richer. Once one pulls down the lever to about 60% up, the choke is out of the situation, and the choke bimetallic spring returns the butterfly to be fully open. So thanks for helping me clarify this.

I'll keep an eye on the choke butterfly lever to make sure that it's operating correctly and not hindered by dirt/wear.
Click to expand...
Choke butterfly is INSIDE the carb.

slomo


#20

S

slomo

Bob E said:
I saved this drain pipe from an old craftsman lawn tractor and keep transplanting it onto my new one. It outlived the Craftsman, an MTD, and I guarantee it will outlive this POS poulan. I've also seen guys use water pipe with an elbow on the end.
Those conjoined throttle and choke levers work fine in the summer, but in winter I find I often want a low idle, and may need a little choke. I bought a universal choke lever within the first week of ownership and never looked back.

View attachment 53928 View attachment 53929
Click to expand...
Most of these engines are made to operate at full throttle all the time. I know on some you have a mechanical throttle you can idle down the engine. On splash lube engines, not recommended to idle down. So the Harley Davidson low revs, you are doing damage over time.

slomo


#21

Bob E

Bob E

I don't buy that. There is a reason the engine manufacturers specify a rpm for low idle (turtle) as well as high idle (rabbit), but I do suspect starting a splash lube engine at full throttle maybe better at splashing the lube around.


#22

Mower King

Mower King

Bob E said:
I don't buy that. There is a reason the engine manufacturers specify a rpm for low idle (turtle) as well as high idle (rabbit), but I do suspect starting a splash lube engine at full throttle maybe better at splashing the lube around.
Click to expand...
Full throttle at all times, as long as the gov. is working, is WAY better on a mower. Better for Oiling, Better on cooling of engine, Better on all drive systems, Better cut, Better everything......you can buy it or not!


#23

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

mower king said:
Full throttle at all times, as long as the gov. is working, is WAY better on a mower. Better for Oiling, Better on cooling of engine, Better on all drive systems, Better cut, Better everything......you can buy it or not!
Click to expand...

my old Kawasaki Mule uses a 9.5 hp AIR COOLED, pressure lubed Kawasaki FE290 engine, states in the owner manual in the troubleshooting section under the heading "Engine Overheating"
it lists idling the engine too long or running at low rpm's for too long of a period as a cause for overheating.


#24

Cusser

Cusser

So my lawn tractor is starting fine - when the battery has enough juice. I know I need a new U1R battery, but with Arizona drought may not get weeds to mow for several months - so waiting for that.

Walmart seems best price for U1R battery ($25), by a decent margin over O'Reilly and Autozone.


#25

Bob E

Bob E

For my B&S 310000 The operating range is 1750 - 3600 rpm. Even at the extremes we're talk less than 2000 rpm difference. If I don't idle it down it will pull wheelies halfway across the yard. Mows real good with the front tires in the air. I'm sure that's much better for the transaxle too. Plowing snow is real fun in rabbit too. :ROFLMAO:


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