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Oil
#1
Carheir
Carheir
Can't find Kawasaki oil locally. What brands are you running in your kawa engines?
#2
D
deamer1
D
deamer1
Hello,
I haven't seen Kawa oil in my area for sometime, but I did receive six quarts of it from Home products (DR Mowers) last summer for a oil change on a Kawasaki 18 h.p. engine.
I normally use national brands on my engines and change oil as specifications call for it. I may not use the same oil all the time, I purchase it bulk when it's available at a good price. I use various weights as I have quite a few different tractors, mowers, other machinery, both gas and diesel. I keep a good supply. 30w, 10 w 30, 5 w 30, 15 w 40, 85, 90, straight 10 weight. I pretty much use what the manuals call for in each machine. :confused2:
Enjoy your week.
I haven't seen Kawa oil in my area for sometime, but I did receive six quarts of it from Home products (DR Mowers) last summer for a oil change on a Kawasaki 18 h.p. engine.
I normally use national brands on my engines and change oil as specifications call for it. I may not use the same oil all the time, I purchase it bulk when it's available at a good price. I use various weights as I have quite a few different tractors, mowers, other machinery, both gas and diesel. I keep a good supply. 30w, 10 w 30, 5 w 30, 15 w 40, 85, 90, straight 10 weight. I pretty much use what the manuals call for in each machine. :confused2:
Enjoy your week.
#4
B
bertsmobile1
Manufacturer branded oil is a massive con.
Ring the technical department of any oil blender and they will give you their oil which is either equivalent or even better.
Opti oil which is sold through most non franchise mower shops actually run a "double your engine warrantee scheme" which effectively puts to bed the branded oil is better argument.
Having said that, mower oil is better in your engine than car oil is when the mower is used domestically ( sit idle for 99% of the time ) as it contains a lot more corrosion inhibitors than car oil does . Oil for air cooled engines is different to oil for water cooled engines and Kawaka recommend the same oil for both.
B
bertsmobile1
Can't find Kawasaki oil locally. What brands are you running in your kawa engines?
Manufacturer branded oil is a massive con.
Ring the technical department of any oil blender and they will give you their oil which is either equivalent or even better.
Opti oil which is sold through most non franchise mower shops actually run a "double your engine warrantee scheme" which effectively puts to bed the branded oil is better argument.
Having said that, mower oil is better in your engine than car oil is when the mower is used domestically ( sit idle for 99% of the time ) as it contains a lot more corrosion inhibitors than car oil does . Oil for air cooled engines is different to oil for water cooled engines and Kawaka recommend the same oil for both.
#5
Carscw
Carscw
Just use any brand you like.
Change it every 50 hours even if you use synthetic.
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
Change it every 50 hours even if you use synthetic.
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
#6
reynoldston
Change it every 100 hours if you use a good synthetic oil like Ams oil. Agree to disagree
reynoldston
Just use any brand you like.
Change it every 50 hours even if you use synthetic.
Sent from my iPhone using LMF
Change it every 100 hours if you use a good synthetic oil like Ams oil. Agree to disagree
#7
PVHIII
PVHIII
Royal Purple10W 30 in every engine I own.
#8
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
My engines get whatever is cheeeep and slick with the appropriate SN letters. I've seen mower engines fail from a lack of oil but never because of the brand of oil. Currently Ranch Pro from Atwoods for $1.98/ QT.
Mowers have enough other things to be concerned with other than oil brands.
Mowers have enough other things to be concerned with other than oil brands.
#9
West
West
Costco: Chevron Supreme motor oil 10w40
#10
C
cmw
C
cmw
I run the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic with good results. I used to run 10W30 conventional as specified by Kohler. It would consume oil and I would get significant smoking during heavy loading of the mower, especially in hot weather. Then I switched to the Rotella T6 based on some things I had read and I never add oil between changes and the smoke issue is no more. This says a lot to me about the oil's ability to handle stress and high heat in an air-cooled engine.
Conor
Conor
#12
PVHIII
PVHIII
looked all over town for this oil the other day..it's designed for commercial grade small engines.. think I'm gonna switch from Royal Purple to this oil but it's looking like I'm gonna have to order it.Amsoil small engine synthetic here. 10W30/30W or something like that.
#13
K
Kelvininin
Speaking of Scams, scAMSoil is at the top of the list of scammers. Amsoil is basically an oil blending pyramid scheme. You can find other group 4 synthetics that are just as good or better at a faction of the cost. But really, why run a group 4 synthetic in a mower engine anyway? Bit of a waste of $$$ in my opinion. Even at double the change interval with amsoil you are still spending more money on oil than you would be with manufactures oil change interval with a group 3 synthetic, blend, or traditional dino oil.
Not saying scamsoil products are bad, they are just overpriced and all hype.
oh and last time I checked, Amsoil base stock is a group 4 synthetic manufactured by Mobile. Amsoil then adds other commercially available additive packages, lots of them to tout the double change interval. Oils now are of a quality that the additive packages wear out before the oil, so amsoil just adds more of the additive packages. This sometimes exceeds the composition limits for some of the oil certifications, so amsoils' gimick is "meets or exceeds such and such certification" but wasn't actually able to obtain said certification.
Just pick a good quality oil that meets the manufactures certification and follow the change interval. I use Rotella for stuff like this. Diesel engine oil has additives to handle the higher, inconsistent heat loads air cooled engines experience, without the gemicky price.
Just sayin.
K
Kelvininin
Change it every 100 hours if you use a good synthetic oil like Ams oil. Agree to disagree
Speaking of Scams, scAMSoil is at the top of the list of scammers. Amsoil is basically an oil blending pyramid scheme. You can find other group 4 synthetics that are just as good or better at a faction of the cost. But really, why run a group 4 synthetic in a mower engine anyway? Bit of a waste of $$$ in my opinion. Even at double the change interval with amsoil you are still spending more money on oil than you would be with manufactures oil change interval with a group 3 synthetic, blend, or traditional dino oil.
Not saying scamsoil products are bad, they are just overpriced and all hype.
oh and last time I checked, Amsoil base stock is a group 4 synthetic manufactured by Mobile. Amsoil then adds other commercially available additive packages, lots of them to tout the double change interval. Oils now are of a quality that the additive packages wear out before the oil, so amsoil just adds more of the additive packages. This sometimes exceeds the composition limits for some of the oil certifications, so amsoils' gimick is "meets or exceeds such and such certification" but wasn't actually able to obtain said certification.
Just pick a good quality oil that meets the manufactures certification and follow the change interval. I use Rotella for stuff like this. Diesel engine oil has additives to handle the higher, inconsistent heat loads air cooled engines experience, without the gemicky price.
Just sayin.
#14
PVHIII
PVHIII
can you explain the difference between a group 4 synthetic and a group 3 synthetic.Speaking of Scams, scAMSoil is at the top of the list of scammers. Amsoil is basically an oil blending pyramid scheme. You can find other group 4 synthetics that are just as good or better at a faction of the cost. But really, why run a group 4 synthetic in a mower engine anyway? Bit of a waste of $$$ in my opinion. Even at double the change interval with amsoil you are still spending more money on oil than you would be with manufactures oil change interval with a group 3 synthetic, blend, or traditional dino oil.
Mot saying scamsoil products are bad, they are just overpriced and all hype.
Just sayin.
#15
K
Kelvininin
Group 4 oils are actually synthetic oil synthesized from a polyparifin base. Where group 3 is a highly refined version of dino oil. Group 4 oils a are slightly better hand surviving extreme conditions where group threes have a better additive solubility. This makes group 3 oils more flexible to work with, and better under some conditions. My definitions of extreme conditions would be ambient conditions below -50F and above 130F.
Here are a few good resource.
https://lubeng.wordpress.com/2012/06/19/is-your-engine-oil-really-synthetic/
Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups
If you really want to go big, look for group 5 synthetics. If you plan on making your mower fly, group 5 is the way to go.
K
Kelvininin
can you explain the difference between a group 4 synthetic and a group 3 synthetic.
Group 4 oils are actually synthetic oil synthesized from a polyparifin base. Where group 3 is a highly refined version of dino oil. Group 4 oils a are slightly better hand surviving extreme conditions where group threes have a better additive solubility. This makes group 3 oils more flexible to work with, and better under some conditions. My definitions of extreme conditions would be ambient conditions below -50F and above 130F.
Here are a few good resource.
https://lubeng.wordpress.com/2012/06/19/is-your-engine-oil-really-synthetic/
Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups
If you really want to go big, look for group 5 synthetics. If you plan on making your mower fly, group 5 is the way to go.
#16
C
cmw
C
cmw
It is my understanding that the Rotella T6 5W40 is a group 4 oil and about the best value there is in this category. I know the Mobil 1 0W40 is also group 4 but figure that might be a little too thin for a mower engine. I run the Rotella in all my mowers and have never had an issue from it. I also see it is popular in motorcycles/ATVs and is wet-clutch compatible.
One thing I have noticed is that the first change with it usually gets nasty looking pretty quickly, especially when using it in some of the equipment I got used and don't know about the history. Once you run a change until it turns pretty dark (only a few hours), you change it out and the new change stays nice and clean for what seems to be a lot longer than what I would see with a conventional oil. I figure that this type of oil is going to better withstand the rigors put on oil by a small air-cooled engine being diesel rated, full synthetic, and all. I am not saying that group 3 oils are bad. They are quite good but for $20 a gallon, this oil is good for what it is. I also understand that group 3 oils cannot be rated as synthetic in Europe so anything you see specified for European vehicles is going to be group 4 or 5 by default.
Oil is a funny thing. Everyone has an opinion like religion and politics.
One thing I have noticed is that the first change with it usually gets nasty looking pretty quickly, especially when using it in some of the equipment I got used and don't know about the history. Once you run a change until it turns pretty dark (only a few hours), you change it out and the new change stays nice and clean for what seems to be a lot longer than what I would see with a conventional oil. I figure that this type of oil is going to better withstand the rigors put on oil by a small air-cooled engine being diesel rated, full synthetic, and all. I am not saying that group 3 oils are bad. They are quite good but for $20 a gallon, this oil is good for what it is. I also understand that group 3 oils cannot be rated as synthetic in Europe so anything you see specified for European vehicles is going to be group 4 or 5 by default.
Oil is a funny thing. Everyone has an opinion like religion and politics.
#17
PVHIII
PVHIII
What are some examples of group 5 oils...not lookin to make my mower fly but am lookin to make it last and try to run the highest quality oil in all my engines including my ZT mower...thanks for your inputGroup 4 oils are actually synthetic oil synthesized from a polyparifin base. Where group 3 is a highly refined version of dino oil. Group 4 oils a are slightly better hand surviving extreme conditions where group threes have a better additive solubility. This makes group 3 oils more flexible to work with, and better under some conditions. My definitions of extreme conditions would be ambient conditions below -50F and above 130F.
Here are a few good resource.
https://lubeng.wordpress.com/2012/06/19/is-your-engine-oil-really-synthetic/
Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups
If you really want to go big, look for group 5 synthetics. If you plan on making your mower fly, group 5 is the way to go.
#18
PVHIII
PVHIII
Currently runnin Royal Purple in every engine I own.Group 4 oils are actually synthetic oil synthesized from a polyparifin base. Where group 3 is a highly refined version of dino oil. Group 4 oils a are slightly better hand surviving extreme conditions where group threes have a better additive solubility. This makes group 3 oils more flexible to work with, and better under some conditions. My definitions of extreme conditions would be ambient conditions below -50F and above 130F.
Here are a few good resource.
https://lubeng.wordpress.com/2012/06/19/is-your-engine-oil-really-synthetic/
Understanding the Differences in Base Oil Groups
If you really want to go big, look for group 5 synthetics. If you plan on making your mower fly, group 5 is the way to go.
#19
K
Kelvininin
In this application you're not going to gain any additional engine longevity by running anything above a group 2. Group 2 is traditional motor oil. But if you want to spend $100/oil change. Redline, Motul, and many racing engine oils are group 5.
K
Kelvininin
What are some examples of group 5 oils...not lookin to make my mower fly but am lookin to make it last and try to run the highest quality oil in all my engines including my ZT mower...thanks for your input
In this application you're not going to gain any additional engine longevity by running anything above a group 2. Group 2 is traditional motor oil. But if you want to spend $100/oil change. Redline, Motul, and many racing engine oils are group 5.
#20
PVHIII
PVHIII
No thanks...I'll just stick with a good quality synthetic... No need for a racing oil in my ZT...but I am a believer that a good quality synthetic makes sense in air cooled engines because of the higher temps..peace of mind gos a long way ;-)In this application you're not going to gain any additional engine longevity by running anything above a group 2. Group 2 is traditional motor oil. But if you want to spend $100/oil change. Redline, Motul, and many racing engine oils are group 5.
#21
C
cmw
C
cmw
I have a non-scientific analysis I do when changing the oil. I always look for metal flakes in the oil. Now these are mostly captured by the filter in units with a filter but push mowers and such without a filter show less of this metal flake when using a synthetic vs. conventional oil. That alone tells me that the synthetic is doing something better than conventional.
I always notice that changing the oil in a NEW engine right after you mow with it one time gives you a TON of metal flake from the engine breaking in. I usually run conventional for a mowing, change the oil, run it 3-5 mowings again on conventional, then switch to syn.
I always notice that changing the oil in a NEW engine right after you mow with it one time gives you a TON of metal flake from the engine breaking in. I usually run conventional for a mowing, change the oil, run it 3-5 mowings again on conventional, then switch to syn.
#22
G
gabowman
G
gabowman
I checked all the branded oil in Walmart and nothing met the API ratings that are published in the hand book for my Kawasaki motor so I picked up 6 quarts of Kawa oil and two filters the last time I went into the city (not my small town). I believe in running what is recommended. If it's a Briggs motor then I run Briggs oil, Kawasaki motor then Kawasaki oil, etc., etc. In my car and truck I run what my mechanic recommends (since he's seen ALOT more innards of motors than I have...or ever will).
#23
PVHIII
PVHIII
Where did you find that oil...been looking all over the place for itAmsoil small engine synthetic here. 10W30/30W or something like that.
#24
C
cmw
I agree! I also agree that racing oil in a mower is a waste of money. I bought a 4 quart jug of Rotella T6 5W30 for $20 at Wal-Mart. My stuff all calls for 10W30, 10W40 in hotter climates, or 5W30 (synthetic ONLY) so I figure that the 5W40 is a pretty good overall oil. I have been happy and see no reason to change. Mowers that used to smoke at startup or under load have quit I don't need to add nearly as much oil as in the past. So for $5 more for MULTIPLE oil changes vs. conventional, I get a much better oil.
Going with Amsoil, Redline, and the like seems like a total waste for a mower. Besides I don't like the marketing tactics of Amsoil.
C
cmw
No thanks...I'll just stick with a good quality synthetic... No need for a racing oil in my ZT...but I am a believer that a good quality synthetic makes sense in air cooled engines because of the higher temps..peace of mind gos a long way ;-)
I agree! I also agree that racing oil in a mower is a waste of money. I bought a 4 quart jug of Rotella T6 5W30 for $20 at Wal-Mart. My stuff all calls for 10W30, 10W40 in hotter climates, or 5W30 (synthetic ONLY) so I figure that the 5W40 is a pretty good overall oil. I have been happy and see no reason to change. Mowers that used to smoke at startup or under load have quit I don't need to add nearly as much oil as in the past. So for $5 more for MULTIPLE oil changes vs. conventional, I get a much better oil.
Going with Amsoil, Redline, and the like seems like a total waste for a mower. Besides I don't like the marketing tactics of Amsoil.
#25
K
Kelvininin
I wouldn't get too hung up on API ratings. Almost All of the API ratings called out for in the Kawi ops manual are obsolete. The newer API standards are more stringent to meet the more demanding needs of modern more powerful engines. Those API standards in the manual are the minimum requirements.
For example... The the 23 HP Kawasaki engine produces 31.7 HP/L. The engine in my ecoboosted F150 produces 102.9 HP/L. Even with the engine being liquid cooled, there is a lot more performance expected from the oil I use in my F150. So would I use a older API standard oil on my truck? No way, could that older API oil work on the mower? You bet. Could the newer API oil work in the mower? Yup.
I bought a jug of rotellat T5 in the 10W30 flavor, that blend will offer far more lubrication performance than the 23HP Kawi would ever require.
K
Kelvininin
I checked all the branded oil in Walmart and nothing met the API ratings that are published in the hand book for my Kawasaki motor so I picked up 6 quarts of Kawi oil and two filters the last time I went into the city (not my small town). I believe in running what is recommended. If it's a Briggs motor then I run Briggs oil, Kawasaki motor then Kawasaki oil, etc., etc. In my car and truck I run what my mechanic recommends (since he's seen ALOT more innards of motors than I have...or ever will).
I wouldn't get too hung up on API ratings. Almost All of the API ratings called out for in the Kawi ops manual are obsolete. The newer API standards are more stringent to meet the more demanding needs of modern more powerful engines. Those API standards in the manual are the minimum requirements.
For example... The the 23 HP Kawasaki engine produces 31.7 HP/L. The engine in my ecoboosted F150 produces 102.9 HP/L. Even with the engine being liquid cooled, there is a lot more performance expected from the oil I use in my F150. So would I use a older API standard oil on my truck? No way, could that older API oil work on the mower? You bet. Could the newer API oil work in the mower? Yup.
I bought a jug of rotellat T5 in the 10W30 flavor, that blend will offer far more lubrication performance than the 23HP Kawi would ever require.
#26
C
cmw
C
cmw
I agree that a conventional Diesel rated oil like Rotella T5 is more than enough for a liquid-cooled small engine.
All my stuff is air-cooled and I don't take it easy on it so I like having the Rotella T6 synthetic (it isn't that much more expensive). I think the concern I have here isn't the mechanical stress caused by the power output of the engine but the thermal stress which is also hard on the oil and breaks it down.
All my stuff is air-cooled and I don't take it easy on it so I like having the Rotella T6 synthetic (it isn't that much more expensive). I think the concern I have here isn't the mechanical stress caused by the power output of the engine but the thermal stress which is also hard on the oil and breaks it down.
#27
K
Kelvininin
Victory motorcycles are air cool and produce 60 HP/L stock. The manufacturers specified oil is a blend. Simply put, with the low HP per displacement rating of the Kawi engine, under all operating conditions you will never thermally overload the oil even on straight conventional oil.
It's more important to observes the weight specification.
K
Kelvininin
I agree that a conventional Diesel rated oil like Rotella T5 is more than enough for a liquid-cooled small engine.
All my stuff is air-cooled and I don't take it easy on it so I like having the Rotella T6 synthetic (it isn't that much more expensive). I think the concern I have here isn't the mechanical stress caused by the power output of the engine but the thermal stress which is also hard on the oil and breaks it down.
Victory motorcycles are air cool and produce 60 HP/L stock. The manufacturers specified oil is a blend. Simply put, with the low HP per displacement rating of the Kawi engine, under all operating conditions you will never thermally overload the oil even on straight conventional oil.
It's more important to observes the weight specification.
#28
C
cmw
C
cmw
I agree that the conventional is fine on a water cooled engine. My situation is all strictly air-cooled and I can see a difference. I no longer have any smoke and there is much less oil consumption under load so to me this says something good about the synthetic oil.
#29
PVHIII
PVHIII
Switched from Royal Purple to Kawasaki KTech synthetic blend developed specifically for commercial grade lawn mower engines...when I purchased my FTSD I don't remember seeing this oil at my dealer... If I remember correctly the Kawasaki oil at that time (2013) was conventional...does anyone know when Kawasaki came out with this KTech synthetic blend?
#30
PVHIII
PVHIII
I just didn't like the purple dye in R.P....I like to be able to judge the cleanliness of my oil from looking at it and the dark color makes that a lil more difficult... I also read somewhere online that RP contains a chemical that at higher temps is a corrosive... don't know how true that is or at what temp it becomes corrosive.
#31
C
cmw
One of my friends used to be real big in the racing scene. He always said that RP was a great "one day" racing oil but that you always wanted to change it once you got home. I don't remember the exact reason but this might be it. I once bought a bunch of RP gear lube to change out differentials and read some reviews once I got home. It didn't rate so well based on some of the tests so I ended up returning unopened it and buying another synthetic that was both cheaper and got better ratings.
I don't remember my exact reasoning on this either as it was a while ago.
One thing nice about oil sold for small engines is that they will contain higher levels of anti-wear additives such as zinc and phosphorous that have been reduced in emissions compliant engines. The same also applies to diesel rated oils but to a lesser extent. This is one reason why I run the Rotella. I also ran an ATV/motorcycle oil in a mower once.
C
cmw
I just didn't like the purple dye in R.P....I like to be able to judge the cleanliness of my oil from looking at it and the dark color makes that a lil more difficult... I also read somewhere online that RP contains a chemical that at higher temps is a corrosive... don't know how true that is or at what temp it becomes corrosive.
One of my friends used to be real big in the racing scene. He always said that RP was a great "one day" racing oil but that you always wanted to change it once you got home. I don't remember the exact reason but this might be it. I once bought a bunch of RP gear lube to change out differentials and read some reviews once I got home. It didn't rate so well based on some of the tests so I ended up returning unopened it and buying another synthetic that was both cheaper and got better ratings.
I don't remember my exact reasoning on this either as it was a while ago.
One thing nice about oil sold for small engines is that they will contain higher levels of anti-wear additives such as zinc and phosphorous that have been reduced in emissions compliant engines. The same also applies to diesel rated oils but to a lesser extent. This is one reason why I run the Rotella. I also ran an ATV/motorcycle oil in a mower once.
#32
T
turboawd
T
turboawd
i called my dealer and he said that 20w-50 is the recommended oil now. i also read that online in some places.
20w-50 is a bit harder to find. the weight seems common in motorcycle oils, but those have the friction modifiers removed due to it being used in the transmission and clutches.
i did happen to find a "racing" oil. valvoline VR1 20w-50. the thing i like is that it has extra zinc additives, which have been stripped out of most other commonly available oils, due to emisssion reasons. zinc can plug or coat catalytic converters.
Amazon.com: Valvoline VV211 VR1 Racing Formula SAE 20W-50 Turbo Approved Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle (Case of 12): Automotive
NAPA AUTO PARTS
20w-50 is a bit harder to find. the weight seems common in motorcycle oils, but those have the friction modifiers removed due to it being used in the transmission and clutches.
i did happen to find a "racing" oil. valvoline VR1 20w-50. the thing i like is that it has extra zinc additives, which have been stripped out of most other commonly available oils, due to emisssion reasons. zinc can plug or coat catalytic converters.
Amazon.com: Valvoline VV211 VR1 Racing Formula SAE 20W-50 Turbo Approved Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle (Case of 12): Automotive
NAPA AUTO PARTS
#34
7394
7394
IMO the 20w-50 is too thick for this application.
#35
T
turboawd
i asked hustler direct about the 20w-50. here is hustler's response:
so, the fact that i only cut tall grass and run the heavier oregon blades and really work the mower, i'll use 20w-50.
if you're just doing normal mowing and not really working the mower hard, then you'll be ok with 30 or 40 weight oil.
T
turboawd
IMO the 20w-50 is too thick for this application.
i asked hustler direct about the 20w-50. here is hustler's response:
George, the dealer probably did not know about a bulletin Kaw recently sent out. The bulletin states in the notes that using 20-50 oil in higher ambient temperatures may reduce oil consumption. So, basically, it is for higher temperature areas of the country.
so, the fact that i only cut tall grass and run the heavier oregon blades and really work the mower, i'll use 20w-50.
if you're just doing normal mowing and not really working the mower hard, then you'll be ok with 30 or 40 weight oil.
#36
Ric
I agree, 20w50 is way to heavy. Personally I'm not going to talk to Hustler about what oil to run in my Kawasaki engine. I'll deal with Kawasaki on that issue. Their manuals all tell you what viscosity to run according to the temperature and the API Service Classification to use and they are the SF, SG,SH,SJ or SL and they are the older classifications but you can also use the newer stuff with the SM and SN classification.
:smile: I've been using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 conventional oil seems like forever cause I'm not really a believer in synthetic but I took the ZM into the shop to have the drive oil changed (250hrs) and told them to do what ever else was needed :laughing: boy was that a mistake. They went through that thing top to bottom and they changed the hydro oil along with all the belts, gas filter, air filters the oil filter and motor oil and they used Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic. Needless to say it cost me $385 to get my mower. :laughing: Next time I'll watch what I say.
Ric
IMO the 20w-50 is too thick for this application.
I agree, 20w50 is way to heavy. Personally I'm not going to talk to Hustler about what oil to run in my Kawasaki engine. I'll deal with Kawasaki on that issue. Their manuals all tell you what viscosity to run according to the temperature and the API Service Classification to use and they are the SF, SG,SH,SJ or SL and they are the older classifications but you can also use the newer stuff with the SM and SN classification.
:smile: I've been using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 conventional oil seems like forever cause I'm not really a believer in synthetic but I took the ZM into the shop to have the drive oil changed (250hrs) and told them to do what ever else was needed :laughing: boy was that a mistake. They went through that thing top to bottom and they changed the hydro oil along with all the belts, gas filter, air filters the oil filter and motor oil and they used Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic. Needless to say it cost me $385 to get my mower. :laughing: Next time I'll watch what I say.
#37
KrashnKraka
...welcome to reality, pilgrim.
I have PM'd you re: reality ... an' leave it at that, publicly.
KK
KrashnKraka
[...]
:smile: I've been using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 conventional oil seems like forever cause I'm not really a believer in synthetic but I took the ZM into the shop to have the drive oil changed (250hrs) and told them to do what ever else was needed :laughing: boy was that a mistake. They went through that thing top to bottom and they changed the hydro oil along with all the belts, gas filter, air filters the oil filter and motor oil and they used Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic. Needless to say it cost me $385 to get my mower. :laughing: Next time I'll watch what I say.
...welcome to reality, pilgrim.
I have PM'd you re: reality ... an' leave it at that, publicly.
KK
#38
K
kraky
K
kraky
Years ago I had syn oil that had run 7000 miles in my honda pilot vehicle tested at a lab. The report said the oil was in great shape but was at the outer limit for contaminants like fuel dilution and fine metal particles.
My "Takeaway" from this was although syn oil will most likely outlast Dino oil it can't magically get rid of the contaminants. Btw...the 7000 miles weren't hwy.
So...for me my new plan on motors is any good oil...but change more often.
I believe my kaw manual says change oil every 100 hours and filter every 200.
I found 5 qts Mobil 5000 10-40 at ww for $12.85.
My plan is to change oil every 40 hours....filter every 80. Unless the oil looks really clean..then might add 10 hours. Btw...bought a 3 ft chunk of 1/2" id hose at the hardware store that makes changing really ez.
Park the unit on a side hill w/drain valve on lowest corner.... run the hose out past the tire into an old cat littler jug....didn't spill a drop or have to crawl under the machine.
I wonder how good the $12.50 kaw engine filter is.....hopefully a tad better than the average auto equiv considering the kaw recommendation of skipping every 100 hours?
My "Takeaway" from this was although syn oil will most likely outlast Dino oil it can't magically get rid of the contaminants. Btw...the 7000 miles weren't hwy.
So...for me my new plan on motors is any good oil...but change more often.
I believe my kaw manual says change oil every 100 hours and filter every 200.
I found 5 qts Mobil 5000 10-40 at ww for $12.85.
My plan is to change oil every 40 hours....filter every 80. Unless the oil looks really clean..then might add 10 hours. Btw...bought a 3 ft chunk of 1/2" id hose at the hardware store that makes changing really ez.
Park the unit on a side hill w/drain valve on lowest corner.... run the hose out past the tire into an old cat littler jug....didn't spill a drop or have to crawl under the machine.
I wonder how good the $12.50 kaw engine filter is.....hopefully a tad better than the average auto equiv considering the kaw recommendation of skipping every 100 hours?
#39
7394
7394
Ric- I guess they did everything they could to yours.. Yeoww !!!
kraky- I spoke directly to Kawasaki (phone number is in my ZTR info packet). And I asked to speak to a tech, he said to me that yes the book says oil change every 100 hours & oil filter every 200 hours. But also said that should not be in the manual, he stated every 50 hours, or once a year if hours don't hit 50.. This I agree with, & is what I'll be doing with mine. & as long as I'm under warranty I'll be using Kaw oil & filters.
PS: Yes I did do the 8 hour oil & filter change, as should be done on a new engine.
kraky- I spoke directly to Kawasaki (phone number is in my ZTR info packet). And I asked to speak to a tech, he said to me that yes the book says oil change every 100 hours & oil filter every 200 hours. But also said that should not be in the manual, he stated every 50 hours, or once a year if hours don't hit 50.. This I agree with, & is what I'll be doing with mine. & as long as I'm under warranty I'll be using Kaw oil & filters.
PS: Yes I did do the 8 hour oil & filter change, as should be done on a new engine.
#40
T
turboawd
did you ask him about using 20w-50?
T
turboawd
kraky- I spoke directly to Kawasaki (phone number is in my ZTR info packet). And I asked to speak to a tech, he said to me that yes the book says oil change every 100 hours & oil filter every 200 hours. But also said that should not be in the manual, he stated every 50 hours, or once a year if hours don't hit 50.. This I agree with, & is what I'll be doing with mine. & as long as I'm under warranty I'lkl be using Kaw oil & filters.
did you ask him about using 20w-50?
#41
7394
7394
No, I called last year when I just got my Z. & Local Toro Dealer has plenty of Kaw 30wt on hand.
#42
Ric
I use the Mobil 10w30 and get 5qts for the same price from Walmart, the Mobil synthetic is double that price and I change oil and filter every 50 hrs.I also use the Kawasaki filter 7007. Will see how the synthetic that they put in it goes.
Ric
Years ago I had syn oil that had run 7000 miles in my honda pilot vehicle tested at a lab. The report said the oil was in great shape but was at the outer limit for contaminants like fuel dilution and fine metal particles.
My "Takeaway" from this was although syn oil will most likely outlast Dino oil it can't magically get rid of the contaminants. Btw...the 7000 miles weren't hwy.
So...for me my new plan on motors is any good oil...but change more often.
I believe my kaw manual says change oil every 100 hours and filter every 200.
I found 5 qts Mobil 5000 10-40 at ww for $12.85.
My plan is to change oil every 40 hours....filter every 80. Unless the oil looks really clean..then might add 10 hours. Btw...bought a 3 ft chunk of 1/2" id hose at the hardware store that makes changing really ez.
Park the unit on a side hill w/drain valve on lowest corner.... run the hose out past the tire into an old cat littler jug....didn't spill a drop or have to crawl under the machine.
I wonder how good the $12.50 kaw engine filter is.....hopefully a tad better than the average auto equiv considering the kaw recommendation of skipping every 100 hours?
I use the Mobil 10w30 and get 5qts for the same price from Walmart, the Mobil synthetic is double that price and I change oil and filter every 50 hrs.I also use the Kawasaki filter 7007. Will see how the synthetic that they put in it goes.
#43
Ric
The Kawasaki oil is good stuff but I'm not paying $8.00 a qt for it. I have seen it at the dealers. Can I ask what Toro ztr your running and what warranty you have? The new Z Masters are running the 5yr / 1200 hr warranty now.
Ric
Ric- I guess they did everything they could to yours.. Yeoww !!!
kraky- I spoke directly to Kawasaki (phone number is in my ZTR info packet). And I asked to speak to a tech, he said to me that yes the book says oil change every 100 hours & oil filter every 200 hours. But also said that should not be in the manual, he stated every 50 hours, or once a year if hours don't hit 50.. This I agree with, & is what I'll be doing with mine. & as long as I'm under warranty I'll be using Kaw oil & filters.
PS: Yes I did do the 8 hour oil & filter change, as should be done on a new engine.
The Kawasaki oil is good stuff but I'm not paying $8.00 a qt for it. I have seen it at the dealers. Can I ask what Toro ztr your running and what warranty you have? The new Z Masters are running the 5yr / 1200 hr warranty now.
#44
B
Brian902
B
Brian902
Mobil 10w30 synthetic in everything.
Change oil at least once a year or if hours exceed manufacture specs in a given year.
Filter always at the same time if one exists.
Done!
Change oil at least once a year or if hours exceed manufacture specs in a given year.
Filter always at the same time if one exists.
Done!
#45
SARG
SARG
I used to waste the money on the "latest-greatest" oil ..... or the packager that was spending the most money for advertising.
Today after 40 years of doing my own maintenance ... I buy the Wallyworld brand ..... not caring which manufacturer they are bottling this month .... and use it in three vehicles ... five garden tractors & a ZTR.
Regular changes mean more to me that the current favorite flavor.
Today after 40 years of doing my own maintenance ... I buy the Wallyworld brand ..... not caring which manufacturer they are bottling this month .... and use it in three vehicles ... five garden tractors & a ZTR.
Regular changes mean more to me that the current favorite flavor.
#46
B
bertsmobile1
Exaxctly.
Way back in the 60's When I was a young man with hair & teeth I was incidental to a project using X-rays to analyse the metallic particles in avaition oil.
The idea was to plot the actual amount of each alloy in the oil against the measured amount of wear in each part in the engine when they were stripped for routine inspection with the aim of substantially reducing the number of times the engine had to be stripped down,
The project was scientifically an outstanding success and now this is SOP for not only military but also civil and even some private operators.
The actual amount of fine metallic particles in the oil was staggering as was the difficulty of filtering it out so we could analyse it and this was using equipment a lot lot lot better than any bolt on can of paper will ever be.
This changed my ideas about oils for good and for the better.
So it went from very expensive oil changed at long intervals to cheap oil changed very very regularly.
Oil is the cheapest part you can put into any engine and the easiest one replace.
And this got applied to everything, the truckes, vans, hire cars, private cars, courier motorcycles, daily transport motorcycles and even my vintage & veteran motorcycles.
B
bertsmobile1
Years ago I had syn oil that had run 7000 miles in my honda pilot vehicle tested at a lab. The report said the oil was in great shape but was at the outer limit for contaminants like fuel dilution and fine metal particles.
My "Takeaway" from this was although syn oil will most likely outlast Dino oil it can't magically get rid of the contaminants. Btw...the 7000 miles weren't hwy.
So...for me my new plan on motors is any good oil...but change more often.
I believe my kaw manual says change oil every 100 hours and filter every 200.
I found 5 qts Mobil 5000 10-40 at ww for $12.85.
My plan is to change oil every 40 hours....filter every 80. Unless the oil looks really clean..then might add 10 hours. Btw...bought a 3 ft chunk of 1/2" id hose at the hardware store that makes changing really ez.
Park the unit on a side hill w/drain valve on lowest corner.... run the hose out past the tire into an old cat littler jug....didn't spill a drop or have to crawl under the machine.
I wonder how good the $12.50 kaw engine filter is.....hopefully a tad better than the average auto equiv considering the kaw recommendation of skipping every 100 hours?
Exaxctly.
Way back in the 60's When I was a young man with hair & teeth I was incidental to a project using X-rays to analyse the metallic particles in avaition oil.
The idea was to plot the actual amount of each alloy in the oil against the measured amount of wear in each part in the engine when they were stripped for routine inspection with the aim of substantially reducing the number of times the engine had to be stripped down,
The project was scientifically an outstanding success and now this is SOP for not only military but also civil and even some private operators.
The actual amount of fine metallic particles in the oil was staggering as was the difficulty of filtering it out so we could analyse it and this was using equipment a lot lot lot better than any bolt on can of paper will ever be.
This changed my ideas about oils for good and for the better.
So it went from very expensive oil changed at long intervals to cheap oil changed very very regularly.
Oil is the cheapest part you can put into any engine and the easiest one replace.
And this got applied to everything, the truckes, vans, hire cars, private cars, courier motorcycles, daily transport motorcycles and even my vintage & veteran motorcycles.
#47
KrashnKraka
Concur.
Fits in with my policy of using oil as a 'mop' of sorts.
Change, run (~1hr), flush and recharge with filter.
In all engines I have had just one failure... a Repco rebuild their
advice was metal fatigue of a woodruff key.
Engines sent "out there" are another story, mixed outcomes like.
KK
KrashnKraka
Exaxctly.
[..]
This changed my ideas about oils for good and for the better.
So it went from very expensive oil changed at long intervals to cheap oil changed very very regularly.
Oil is the cheapest part you can put into any engine and the easiest one replace.
And this got applied to everything, the truckes, vans, hire cars, private cars, courier motorcycles, daily transport motorcycles and even my vintage & veteran motorcycles.
Concur.
Fits in with my policy of using oil as a 'mop' of sorts.
Change, run (~1hr), flush and recharge with filter.
In all engines I have had just one failure... a Repco rebuild their
advice was metal fatigue of a woodruff key.
Engines sent "out there" are another story, mixed outcomes like.
KK
#48
7394
Yeowww !!! I only pay $5.99 a qt. for Kaw 30w at my local Toro Dealer.
Ric -If you were asking me, I have a 2014 TimeCutter 4260, & that has 3 yr warranty w/ unlimited hours in that time frame. Dealer also included the belts & battery for 3 yrs. ( but I bought mine there as well, at last Aug yr end sale)..
My place is an obstacle course of trees & shrubs etc we planted yrs ago, so a 42" Z is all I need ..
5 yr / 1200 warranty sounds pretty sweet.
7394
The Kawasaki oil is good stuff but I'm not paying $8.00 a qt for it. I have seen it at the dealers. Can I ask what Toro ztr your running and what warranty you have? The new Z Masters are running the 5yr / 1200 hr warranty now.
Yeowww !!! I only pay $5.99 a qt. for Kaw 30w at my local Toro Dealer.
Ric -If you were asking me, I have a 2014 TimeCutter 4260, & that has 3 yr warranty w/ unlimited hours in that time frame. Dealer also included the belts & battery for 3 yrs. ( but I bought mine there as well, at last Aug yr end sale)..
My place is an obstacle course of trees & shrubs etc we planted yrs ago, so a 42" Z is all I need ..
5 yr / 1200 warranty sounds pretty sweet.
#49
Ric
I remember the Kawasaki oil when we were into the motorcycle thing and even then it was more expensive. Most of the shops sell the stuff and depending on the viscosity it's $6.99 and higher and I just have a real problem paying that for oil and you can't beat the Toro warranty, it's great.
Ric
Yeowww !!! I only pay $5.99 a qt. for Kaw 30w at my local Toro Dealer.
Ric -If you were asking me, I have a 2014 TimeCutter 4260, & that has 3 yr warranty w/ unlimited hours in that time frame. Dealer also included the belts & battery for 3 yrs. ( but I bought mine there as well, at last Aug yr end sale)..
My place is an obstacle course of trees & shrubs etc we planted yrs ago, so a 42" Z is all I need ..
5 yr / 1200 warranty sounds pretty sweet.
I remember the Kawasaki oil when we were into the motorcycle thing and even then it was more expensive. Most of the shops sell the stuff and depending on the viscosity it's $6.99 and higher and I just have a real problem paying that for oil and you can't beat the Toro warranty, it's great.
#50
7394
7394
I just bought oil & my 7007 filter out at my Dealer, same price for oil $5.99
I would love having that 5 yr / 1200 hour warranty.
I would love having that 5 yr / 1200 hour warranty.
#51
Ric
I thought being in business and using the mowers as much as I do the 5/1200 would be nice to have. I've used it just once and it saved me a lot of money.
Ric
I just bought oil & my 7007 filter out at my Dealer, same price for oil $5.99
I would love having that 5 yr / 1200 hour warranty.
I thought being in business and using the mowers as much as I do the 5/1200 would be nice to have. I've used it just once and it saved me a lot of money.
#52
D
DJ660
D
DJ660
Not to start any argument here...... But Have any of you out there heard of or seen any engine (4 cycle) fail from the running WRONG the kind of oil. In my opinion something is better than nothing. Lets not confuse this with a "Ran low or no oil" situation. Example: Manufacture calls for #30 wt and someone dumps in 15w40 and the engine blew up. Not looking for any arguments here.:thumbsup:
#53
T
turboawd
but when an engine fails with the "right" oil, was the oil to blame?
T
turboawd
Not to start any argument here...... But Have any of you out there heard of or seen any engine (4 cycle) fail from the running WRONG the kind of oil. In my opinion something is better than nothing. Lets not confuse this with a "Ran low or no oil" situation. Example: Manufacture calls for #30 wt and someone dumps in 15w40 and the engine blew up. Not looking for any arguments here.:thumbsup:
but when an engine fails with the "right" oil, was the oil to blame?
#54
KrashnKraka
Yeuuup..several.
One that sticks is waaaaay back before UL fuel was around
a product "rimula(sp) X" was touted as good for all diesel engines
with crossover propeties that allowed it's use in leaded petrol engines.
That construction project was huge, and remote.
Some who ran the oil in their "go home" vehicle didn't get home on
that engine. We also lost two of the 60HP Duetz AC potable water pumps
before a change was tried and worked. Those engines required an air chisel
to remove the tar from the crankshaft in getting a look at what damage
there was.
I can recall some outboard engines (2cycle). May not count?
And some racing tuned motorcyles running "one day one run" wonder oils.
Also may not count.
Thing is this discussion is focused on AC 'light duty' engines.
It's frightening on the amount of misinformation out there and also
the degree of reliance on "I use this and it is GREAT" with absolutely
no science as creds.
Fir engines that are largely goverend and low duty cycyles
(8hrs mowing is not heavy duty by any measure, friends)
oil should be so simple, as your post implies, yet I personally have had
three differing opinions(?) quoted at me as "Gospel Truth" when asking
the question of mower dealers and mower engine reps.
Quite frankly (candidly honest) I have reached that point which says to me
the AC mower engine users/dealers and many 'repairers' do not know what
they are talking about . Simply put, a lot of bias and very little clue.
..... back to you, I will ignore the harpies ;-)
KrashnKraka
Not to start any argument here...... But Have any of you out there heard of or seen any engine (4 cycle) fail from the running WRONG the kind of oil. In my opinion something is better than nothing. Lets not confuse this with a "Ran low or no oil" situation. Example: Manufacture calls for #30 wt and someone dumps in 15w40 and the engine blew up. Not looking for any arguments here.:thumbsup:
Yeuuup..several.
One that sticks is waaaaay back before UL fuel was around
a product "rimula(sp) X" was touted as good for all diesel engines
with crossover propeties that allowed it's use in leaded petrol engines.
That construction project was huge, and remote.
Some who ran the oil in their "go home" vehicle didn't get home on
that engine. We also lost two of the 60HP Duetz AC potable water pumps
before a change was tried and worked. Those engines required an air chisel
to remove the tar from the crankshaft in getting a look at what damage
there was.
I can recall some outboard engines (2cycle). May not count?
And some racing tuned motorcyles running "one day one run" wonder oils.
Also may not count.
Thing is this discussion is focused on AC 'light duty' engines.
It's frightening on the amount of misinformation out there and also
the degree of reliance on "I use this and it is GREAT" with absolutely
no science as creds.
Fir engines that are largely goverend and low duty cycyles
(8hrs mowing is not heavy duty by any measure, friends)
oil should be so simple, as your post implies, yet I personally have had
three differing opinions(?) quoted at me as "Gospel Truth" when asking
the question of mower dealers and mower engine reps.
Quite frankly (candidly honest) I have reached that point which says to me
the AC mower engine users/dealers and many 'repairers' do not know what
they are talking about . Simply put, a lot of bias and very little clue.
..... back to you, I will ignore the harpies ;-)
#55
Carscw
Carscw
What I find amusing is people really pay for Kawasaki or Briggs oil.
Do you really think they made the oil to be a perfect match for the engine?
Did they add some Magic potion to it?
Why does ford or gm not have a magic oil?
Do you really think they made the oil to be a perfect match for the engine?
Did they add some Magic potion to it?
Why does ford or gm not have a magic oil?
#56
Ric
LOL.. Good one..:thumbsup:
Ric
What I find amusing is people really pay for Kawasaki or Briggs oil.
Do you really think they made the oil to be a perfect match for the engine?
Did they add some Magic potion to it?
Why does ford or gm not have a magic oil?
LOL.. Good one..:thumbsup: