I've rebuilt a 2002 Scag Tiger Cub that I had originally bought for parts. I have it to 'like new' condition with lots of sweat involved. The only issue I have now is a butchered wiring harness that I had wired just to get the engine to run. I've toned the harness following the wiring diagram and can't get the safety switches to and the engine to work together. I have the ignition wired from the green wire on relay to the solenoid to make it run. Most of the connectors have been cut out and spliced. My question: Is there such a thing as a good used harness to purchase less than $350. plus $120. for interface module to get safety switches back to work. I don't want someone that doesn't know to walk up and turn the key to find out the blades will turn with PTO switch up while starting the mower. Too dangerous !
No safety switches working !
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bertsmobile1
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AFAIK no one makes aftermarket wiring looms other than a few engine to mower pigtails
OTOH a loom is nothing more than wires , terminals & plugs
With the exception of the module all can be replaced with cheap auto parts
Not familiar with your exact machine
Some modules use std auto parts while others use unique parts
I regularly rewire using Lucar terminals because that is what is available cheap in Australia & I am already set up for them
OTOH a loom is nothing more than wires , terminals & plugs
With the exception of the module all can be replaced with cheap auto parts
Not familiar with your exact machine
Some modules use std auto parts while others use unique parts
I regularly rewire using Lucar terminals because that is what is available cheap in Australia & I am already set up for them
That's what I was considering doing since I've already spent more rebuilding this mower than it's worth. Even the harness to engine pigtail was cut out. Is there a way to test the interconnect module to tell if it is good ?
bertsmobile1
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Yes
But it is not simple without using substitution
First you go to Scag & download the parts book
In the back is the wiring diagram
Then you work out what signal the module will be getting from the individual switches
In most cases it will be + 12 V , - 12V or nothing
Then you get a packet of patch cords ( short jumpers with an aligator terminal both ends ) or make some up for yourself
Most modules switch the ground connections so you connect the pins according to what should be coming from the safety switches then check the output with a multi meter
The only thing the module really does is send a negative signal to the magneto and a neg to a 4 pole starter solenoid or even a + to the solenoid
Can't tell from the diagram but as they fit Kohlers & Hondas with shift starters probably switch + 12 to the solenoid wire .
It is a pretty diagram but next to useless
But it is not simple without using substitution
First you go to Scag & download the parts book
In the back is the wiring diagram
Then you work out what signal the module will be getting from the individual switches
In most cases it will be + 12 V , - 12V or nothing
Then you get a packet of patch cords ( short jumpers with an aligator terminal both ends ) or make some up for yourself
Most modules switch the ground connections so you connect the pins according to what should be coming from the safety switches then check the output with a multi meter
The only thing the module really does is send a negative signal to the magneto and a neg to a 4 pole starter solenoid or even a + to the solenoid
Can't tell from the diagram but as they fit Kohlers & Hondas with shift starters probably switch + 12 to the solenoid wire .
It is a pretty diagram but next to useless
Thanks, Bertsmobile, I agree with you about the diagram in the manual. After hours of toning wires out and trying to figure out what the diagram says, all I accomplished was a slight headache. I'm retired from a scheduled job so I have plenty time and will hang with it.
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It can be done but takes patience and understanding. In this case it appears they are switch both grounds and +12V leads. Can be a hair puller at times.
For me these wiring are a lot harder to follow than a regular schematic but this what the OEM provides to just make it harder for their non dealers but even the dealer electric guys bitch about them as they have look up about every switch to see what it is doing.
They are fine for those just assembling a harness but a royal pain for us that has to troubleshoot and repair the harness.
For me these wiring are a lot harder to follow than a regular schematic but this what the OEM provides to just make it harder for their non dealers but even the dealer electric guys bitch about them as they have look up about every switch to see what it is doing.
They are fine for those just assembling a harness but a royal pain for us that has to troubleshoot and repair the harness.
bertsmobile1
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To be honest I have not given your problem too much attention
But it appears that the module sends +12 V to the starter solenoid , + 12V to the fuel solenoid and makes / breaks the ground contact to the coil
But it appears that the module sends +12 V to the starter solenoid , + 12V to the fuel solenoid and makes / breaks the ground contact to the coil