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1995 MTD model 135M679G382, worn steering linkage is giving me fits right during a peak time of need (fall clean-up). I cannot afford the cost or lost time to a shop to repair. Has anyone had a similar problem on a small LT causing loss of steering?

I'm using the illustrated parts list (IPL) at MTD 135M679G382 Parts List and Diagram - (1995) : eReplacementParts.com , Page K. Looking for a suggestion on how to make a quick "field mod" or makeshift repair of my steering drag link between the Steering Gear Segment (IPL #K51) and Front Axle Steering Arm (IPL # K22). The link comes apart from the pin at the Steering Gear Segment end. I can push the ferrule "socket" back down onto the link pin but it pops right back off after driving a short distance. Most of my yard is flat and I'm driving slowly, so no danger is involved- it's just frustrating to lose steering while trying to get a job done.

Hope I've described the problem adequately. Thanks in advance.

Your link to 135M679G382 Parts List doesn't entirely work. It shows no diagram at all. Can you repost with the exact page you're refering to? If you could post a photo , that would be very helpful.
Rich

Nevermind - I found it!
A photo would still help a lot.
Rich

If I understand you, it appears that the linkage is coming apart at the ball/socket fitting. If this in-fact correct, Ace Hardware sells them. It sort of looks like a giant version of the fitting on carburetor linkage. Am I on the right track?
Rich

AcadGrad81 said:

The link comes apart from the pin at the Steering Gear Segment end. I can push the ferrule "socket" back down onto the link pin but it pops right back off

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This is harder to describe than it will be to do...
You can make a temporary fix by:
removing the pin with the ball from the steering sector...
Remove the socket portion from the draglink,
Drill a hole through the socket portion, through that hole pass a grade 5 0r grade 8 bolt, place several washers as spacers then run the bolt through the spot you removed the pin from the steering sector. Secure this with a locking type nut.... leaving the assembly loose enough for movement but snug enough that it does not bind...
You can use it this way for a long time or until you get the tie rod end piece in to replace the original one...:smile:KennyV

BTW... I have done the above repair to small mowers and large AG tractor tie rod ends...
Works great you just have to leave the attached point loose enough to allow for the full travel ... Replace the ends with new ASAP and shop around to get the best price and order enough for all the rod ends...
That particular end gets the most stress and thats why it finally failed BUT the others are just as used up and are due to fail soon... just as well replace all of them at the same time... Look at local hardware stores and on line plus they show up on ebay regularly...
The common variables are:
usually 5/16 or 3/8 and are either fine thread or coarse thread... some are left hand thread but usually always right hand thread. A quick check of what you have will insure it's going to be the right end...
check here also...
McMaster-Carr
:smile:KennyV

rmancini said:

If I understand you, it appears that the linkage is coming apart at the ball/socket fitting. If this in-fact correct, Ace Hardware sells them. It sort of looks like a giant version of the fitting on carburetor linkage. Am I on the right track?
Rich

Click to expand...

It's in fact the ball/socket combination as you assumed. The end with that socket threads onto the linkage rod and is held in the correct spot with a locking nut. Unfortunately, it's the end of the linkage rod closer to the steering shaft (not at the left front wheel) and is tricky to get to.

AcadGrad81 said:

It's in fact the ball/socket combination as you assumed. The end with that socket threads onto the linkage rod and is held in the correct spot with a locking nut. Unfortunately, it's the end of the linkage rod closer to the steering shaft (not at the left front wheel) and is tricky to get to.

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If it's that difficult to get to, you may just have to "bite the bullet" and make the repairs. Not sure, but, You may have to disassemble the cowling to get to it. If you're going to get that far into it, you may as well take the broken fitting (probably called a drag-link socket) to your local hardware store and try to match it up to a new one. The biggest problem I can see is not being able to mow in the mean time but that might be better that having to stop frequently to temporarily put things back together.
Rich

rmancini said:

You may have to disassemble the cowling to get to it. If you're going to get that far into it, you may as well take the broken fitting (probably called a drag-link socket) to your local hardware store and try to match it up to a new one. The biggest problem I can see is not being able to mow in the mean time but that might be better that having to stop frequently to temporarily put things back together.
Rich

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Thanks for the suggestion. I should be able to get the drag link fitting off, but to remove the pin, I will probably have to remove the steering segment since the pin is longer than the clearance between the segment and the surface under it. Unfortunately, the IPL is fuzzy in detail and doesn't seem to include the size or description of the pin.

AcadGrad81 said:

pin is longer than the clearance between the segment and the surface under it.

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Turn the steering from lock to lock ... I have seen the spacing improve at one extreme to the other...
:smile:KennyV

Here's what will work till you feel like changing it. Take the ball and socket off tractor, mount socket shaft in vise insert ball then take a punch and tap near edge of hole on shaft to drive edge of taper tighter against the ball ...about six or eight spots close to the edge will hold it there for quite awhile when you satisfied with the fit add a little oil to lube it up ...:thumbsup:

Nasty135 said:

Here's what will work till you feel like changing it. Take the ball and socket off tractor, mount socket shaft in vise insert ball then take a punch and tap near edge of hole on shaft to drive edge of taper tighter against the ball ...about six or eight spots close to the edge will hold it there for quite awhile when you satisfied with the fit add a little oil to lube it up ...:thumbsup:

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Thanks for the tip, mate.

After calling a lot of local shops yesterday morning, I found the ball and socket assembly in stock for about $6.00 ea. (mfr. offshore) so I bought two. I figured if I'm going to disassemble the drag link ends to try a temporary repair, I might as well fix it with the intended parts. The one remaining serviceable end will be kept as a spare.

Good to see you replace it........temporary repairs could endanger your life.........not worth it........be carefull...........better to be safe!:thumbdown:

How much does it cost to fix { Tie rod ends }plus Steering linkage on a John Deere LX277

rmancini said:

If it's that difficult to get to, you may just have to "bite the bullet" and make the repairs. Not sure, but, You may have to disassemble the cowling to get to it. If you're going to get that far into it, you may as well take the broken fitting (probably called a drag-link socket) to your local hardware store and try to match it up to a new one. The biggest problem I can see is not being able to mow in the mean time but that might be better that having to stop frequently to temporarily put things back together.
Rich

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I agree here you some times have to bit the bullet and make the right repairs. As far as cost go's maybe you can find a used one on E-bay or if you can find a mower salvage yard.