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Starting cleaning up and getting my Big Six up to snuff. I took off shroud and gas tank to clean them up. Have two things I can use your advice with:

I see two carbs listed. One is auto choke. I assume with bulb primer this is not auto choke but want to make sure in case I order new carb.



And I think my son bent the speed linkage when he folded handle to put it aware last year. Can anyone tell from looking at these?

Finished fixing up the Big Six. New carb from Reparclinic.com and it starts on first pull. Here's my spruced up Ninja and a look at results on lawn:

The mower and the lawn look great!

Main fan belt is quite loose. It looks like there's an auto tension-er but not sure it's working. Should I just get new belt?

And tires don't have much traction. Any source for cost efective replacements? Actually I'd like to go bigger to get more height on cut.

By main fan belt do u mean the belt that goes around the shaft and turns the flat disc? Yes it could be worn and replacing wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm not sure if the tensioner system on yours is the same as my older ones but if so there's a spring that attaches to the tensioner and goes to the deck. That's an easy cheap replacement to fix lack-of-tension. As for bigger wheels, I'm guessing u have 8" front and 10" rear. A new set isn't exactly cheap, about $80 for steel. I don't think they come any bigger but could u add some height by setting the height adjusters past the highest setting? They would be basically one notch beyond that highest setting. Just an idea.

Snapperfreak said:

By main fan belt do u mean the belt that goes around the shaft and turns the flat disc? Yes it could be worn and replacing wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm not sure if the tensioner system on yours is the same as my older ones but if so there's a spring that attaches to the tensioner and goes to the deck. That's an easy cheap replacement to fix lack-of-tension. As for bigger wheels, I'm guessing u have 8" front and 10" rear. A new set isn't exactly cheap, about $80 for steel. I don't think they come any bigger but could u add some height by setting the height adjusters past the highest setting? They would be basically one notch beyond that highest setting. Just an idea.

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Yes that's the belt. I noticed it flopping while running. And if I press on it it is quite loose. I'll take video tomorrow and post.

Have to look at going past highest position. That would be easy fix!

THANKS!

I never knew you could go past last notch in wheel height guide! Thanks Snapperfreak!!!!

You can see belt flapping around since its so loose. It works but if not too much trouble replacing I'll put on new one. I was thinking the lower horizontal disk was tensioner but it appears its just a guide as it's fixed. Or is it adjustable to take up slack?

The thought of going past the highest setting actually just occurred to me recently. Glad that helped!

So there isn't a spring connecting that lower, smaller idler pulley to the deck? If it is fixed then I'm not sure how tension is applied, I'm only familiar with the older ones.

I'm looking at schematic and it looks like it should be spring activated. But when I tried to move that idler pulley it wasn't budging. will have to dig into it a bit. Perhaps it's jammed or rusted, or broken spring.

Yep that idler pulley bracket is frozen and not doing it's job. I think I need to do partial disassembly anyway to change belt. Can anyone tell me best way to take it apart!

Also here's my Ninja blade. Couple of dings.

The best way I know how to replace that belt is as follows:
1) remove the spring that holds the rubber drive wheel down to the flat drive disc. That will relieve tension on the disc.
2) remove blade and remove bolts holding engine to deck.
3) remove 9/16" nut under the deck that attaches the flat disc to the deck. Remove that and u can remove the disc and the idler pulley.

From there u can disassemble the idler pulley from the flat disc and lube or replace, and replace the belt.

It's been awhile since I've done it but I think that's it. It's not exactly fun but that's how it comes apart if memory serves me. Hope that helps.

Idler bracket was rusted to the deck!

If it were me I'd take your mower model # and order a new one, along with the belt of course.

Good advice! The bearing on drive plate is also shot. Now I know why it was making so much noise:

Are the Stens replacement parts good to use? Looks like I can save quite a bit on items like this drive disck versus Snapper product on Repairclinic.com

Drive Plate / Snapper 7073528yp

Yes, I actually bought a stens replacement for my 21350PS last year. That was the last time I worked on this issue. Mine had the same issue, bearing was shot. I bought the mower in that condition from its original owner who bought it in 1982. Since the bearing was frozen up he couldn't pull the recoil, everything was locked up. Got the mower for $30 (plus an extra bag and blade). Replaced that whole thing down there with a stens unit and it's perfect.

Awesome! Thank you so much Snapperfreak! For a while I didn't think I was getting much help on this forum.

My wheels a due for replacement - not because of cutting height but not enough traction and front wheels wobble. It looks like there's not that much difference between price of steel vs plastic. Is that what you've found? I saw an old thread with your post about sourcing on eBay or Casto Mower online. My model has grey wheels. But I wonder if white would make it look more retro ; )

No problem sir, I like to help where I think I have knowledge. Engine mechanics isn't my string point but I'm glad I could help on the other stuff. Yes bday and casto are great for wheels, casto is where I bought my new set. Yes for the price difference steel is definitely the way to go. I totally prefer white, even on the newer decks like yours, it does add a vintage feel to it. Looking foreword to more pics when all your work is done!

Oops, typos. Engines aren't my strong point and eBay is good. Haha.

I wish someone made an 11" drive wheel for Snapper. Even though you taught me there's a higher cut height setting I always thought bigger wheels would be appropriate. Stock are 8" front and 10" rear. I see there are 9" but no 11" drive wheels.

I saw someone recommend TSC but I think the Snapper wheels are unique?

I just remembered my local Snapper dealer (no longer) gave me a set of bushing to try on my wheels to see if it would tighten them up. This was over 10 years ago and I never got to figure out how to install. I was afraid I may need some kind of puller and press to get old off and new on.

Have you change your wheel bushings?

I have never tried that, I think if damage stuff if I did. I've just changed the whole wheel out. Yes the snapper wheels are unique, especially the rears on the self-propelled. I think the larger 8/10 size wheels began in the early 2000s, I think. All mine are the 7/9s, but if u find a bigger wheel set up maybe switching the bushings would work.

My mower is from ~ '96. I thought they were 8/10. Will double check.

I was wrong. Rear is 9. Fronts appear to measure 7.5?

Well I'd call it 9" rear and 8" front. Damn I was hoping originals were 7/9 so I could go to 8/10.

shacky said:

I just remembered my local Snapper dealer (no longer) gave me a set of bushing to try on my wheels to see if it would tighten them up. This was over 10 years ago and I never got to figure out how to install. I was afraid I may need some kind of puller and press to get old off and new on.

Have you change your wheel bushings?

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Actually they are not wheel bushings but axle bushings.

shacky said:

I never knew you could go past last notch in wheel height guide! Thanks Snapperfreak!!!!

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I have the exact same mower and issue with height adjustment. I am scalping my lawn on the highest deck slot. I tried putting the lever below the last notch but the wheels will float doing this.(nothing to stop the wheel from going down) Then the mower doesn't cut the same height when you corner, hit high spots, sidewalks, tree roots, etc.. I wish I could find taller wheels. I guess if you tie-wrap to the last slot to keep the wheel from drifting... but that is kinda redneck!

Maybe there's a way to secure a small bracket with a nut and bolt to keep the adjuster in place. Going past the highest notch was just an idea, I personally haven't tried it but it seemed like it would work. The highest level is still scalping your lawn???

Snapperfreak said:

Maybe there's a way to secure a small bracket with a nut and bolt to keep the adjuster in place. Going past the highest notch was just an idea, I personally haven't tried it but it seemed like it would work. The highest level is still scalping your lawn???

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I have a very deep texas san augustine lawn. The tall skinny Snapper wheels sink into the lawn leaving the deck deep in the grass.
On the highest deck setting the mower is cutting 2/3 to 3/4 of the grass blade.(instead of 1/3) Cutting this much of the grass also overwhems the mulching blade so I had to put the side discharge plastic back on the mower.
Picture of grass taken 2 days after mowing.

Since I mowed 2 days ago and struggled with it cutting too deep, I have raised it beyond the last notch and tie-wrapped it in place.

That's some serious grass

Good to see others have same mower. I have to give it a try with level adjustment past the end. I thought it was going to be easy solution.

Love Snappers and want to get this one back in rotation.

Speaking of overloading mulching blade I notice my Snapper always struggled with tall dense grass. The Hi Vac deck isn't the best for mulching - even though that's how mine was configured. Later they came out with a flared deck lip - instead of having that lip around bottom edge go inside cutting area it was flared the other way to outside. I picked up a beat up version of the flaired deck to swap engines. I had hit a metal septic vent pipe at my old house and bent the shaft.

I really wanted to use that flared deck but it was in bad shape - luckily the engine was in great shape.

I think the Hi Vav decks will always do better job with bagging or side discharge than with mulching. The Hi Vac deck keeps too much grass in cirulation hence the overload. It cuts the crap out of the grass into tiny mulch but sometimes overloads - adding to uneven cut or those anoying stray strands.

My Honda HRX does a better job in mulch mode. But I love good old American Snappers!!!

Got my steel wheels today. Wow do these have heft!!!

Nice! Ya those are seriously heavy duty.

I took this drive plat off to get rust off and paint it. But what do I do with the deck? I'm tempted to keep going and paint whole thing but really don't want to go that far. Is there a touch up paint I can use here? Thoughts and advice welcomed.

I'm not aware of an exact match for that paint that's available today. U could try emailing snapper but I think that will be tough to find. I have done a couple full restos and the biggest problem with repainting with spray paint is it just doesn't stick like the original finish. Even with sandblasting, primer, paint and clear coat it's not the same. Powder coat would be nice but probably a lot of money. Here's my opinion and others may differ but I'd paint that plate if u want and leave the deck as is, just a good clean up with either soap and water and/or simple green.

I like the way you're thinking!

Thanks!!!

Sure thing. It would be neat to powder coat an old snapper. I don't think I'll be doing any full restos anytime soon though. I'm happy with finding good old ones, a little rough is ok. And I just hate what snapper has become. The trash that's sold in Walmart etc. nothing like the old ones. I'm completely stuck in the past when it comes to snapper. I do wish I still had my '98 that I bought new. I'm referring to the snappers that don't even look like snappers anymore.

I agree completely. My Brother-in-Law had the old white engine Snapper with horizontal pull back in '70's. That was class! And I just love the drive mechanism. Piece of art!

And who can forget Kelsey Grammer commercials - "Two blades for the way up! And two blades for the way down!"

Snapper w/ Kelsey Grammer - YouTube

Anything else just won't cut it

Looks like Commercial Series are still high quality!

Yep, back when snapper meant something. I thought those old vertical-pull ones were so cool when I was a kid. And you nailed it, I've always seen snappers as a form of art. Sounds kinda silly I guess but they were built with style. The curves of the deck that continued to the chute, the tapering lines of the handles, the bright red and white. I've just always loved them. Your mower is very similar to my '98, only mine had a more basic briggs engine. Should have kept it but oh well.

I don't remember seeing those commercials on tv back then but I've seen them on YouTube. Ya...wow!

Here in New York those commercials were on a lot!

So looks like those axle bushings are for the plastic wheels only. When I install the steel wheels do I grease the axles?

As far as I know u don't have to. I never have.

Got all tires on except left rear. Letting it soak with penetrating oil. I'm putting a little grease on axles to help prevent rust.

shacky said:

I agree completely. My Brother-in-Law had the old white engine Snapper with horizontal pull back in '70's. That was class! And I just love the drive mechanism. Piece of art!

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I meant vertical pull - oops

Ya I like those old basic 3.5 vertical pull briggs. My 1982 21350PS has one, not original though. Original was key-start only, no recoil but it died soon after original owner (from whom I bought it last year) bought it. It was replaced with a non-key-start recoil only engine so I removed allnof the electric start stuff.

Liking the steel wheels!

shacky said:

Liking the steel wheels! http://s137.photobucket.com/user/sh...B-40AD-AEF9-098D91ED9391_zpswv2fkmn6.jpg.html

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I agree

Had local dealer sharpen my Ninja. Also got the new drive disk on. That was a bit tricky!

Looking good