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I have a Yard Machines mower with a 46" deck and the blades won't disengage for some reason. I dropped the deck to get a better look, but I don't know what missing (if I broke a spring or something).

When I pull the pulley back it will just stay there if I let go and it's a little tough to pull back in the first place. I have sprayed WD-40 but that didn't help. It kinda looks like there should be a spring in front of that pulley to help it come back after I disengage but I don't really know. Also, I can shut the mower off and turn it back on to get the blades to stop.


If you need anymore info just let me know.
Thanks for any help!

Take the belt off and have a helper move the lever so you can see what's going on.

Don't know what model you have but on mine there are two belts that run the deck.
Is yours the two or the one?

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

Model is a 13rl771h. The deck uses 2 belts.

I pretty much know what it is doing. I have moved that pulley back a forth a lot and it just doesnt want to go back into the disengaged position. I washed the deck and nothing seems to be holding back.

Shouldn't the pulley spring forward if I pull it back and let go?

Hey

Could be a bad bushing,maybe worn a flat spot

andyrew said:

I have a Yard Machines mower with a 46" deck and the blades won't disengage for some reason. I dropped the deck to get a better look, but I don't know what missing (if I broke a spring or something).

When I pull the pulley back it will just stay there if I let go and it's a little tough to pull back in the first place. I have sprayed WD-40 but that didn't help. It kinda looks like there should be a spring in front of that pulley to help it come back after I disengage but I don't really know. Also, I can shut the mower off and turn it back on to get the blades to stop.


If you need anymore info just let me know.
Thanks for any help!

Click to expand...

On some lawn tractors I have had to replace the idler arm bracket because the deck wears a spot down on it. You'll need to remove the spring and take the pulley off to get down to the bracket itself to inspect it for wear. Usually you have to put a wrench under the pulley while you loosen the pulley nut with another wrench or socket. Good luck and keep us posted.

Ok I took some things apart, but I don't see anything yet. I didn't see any spots that were wore down. I guess tomorrow I'll clean everything and replace some nuts.

All the springs seem ok also.

What is supposed to pull the pulley back? Did any of you notice a missing spring in my first picture above?

andyrew said:

Ok I took some things apart, but I don't see anything yet. I didn't see any spots that were wore down. I guess tomorrow I'll clean everything and replace some nuts.

All the springs seem ok also.

What is supposed to pull the pulley back? Did any of you notice a missing spring in my first picture above?

Click to expand...

I didn't see where the cable comes in that hooks to a spring that engages the idler pulley. When you shift the lever on the console to engage the blades everything works OK except it won't disengage? We'll have to wait till you reassemble to see if something is binding when you release the lever. Hopefully a good cleaning will solve the problem.

If I remember right, there isn't tension on the engage lever until about halfway down, but the blades come on and sound nice anyway. I'll be back on in about 11-12 hours and hopefully I'll have it reassembled by then with more pictures.


Also, if you look at my first picture in the top-middle there is a hole with some black paint missing around it. To me it seems as though a bolt should be there with a spring going from it to the idle arm bracket to aid in the idle arm brackets return. I don't understand why it won't go back so I'm just throwing ideas out there :biggrin:


P.S. The spring that attaches to the cable is all one piece and is under the mower and not on the deck.

Alright...

I put the idle arm bracket back on and tightened it up. Once again, the bracket gets stuck when I pull it back.

So I decided to pull the arm all the way back and loosen the one bolt holding it in place until the whole assembly sprung back into the disengaged position.

Is this a bad idea? There is a lock nut on that bolt, but I don't like the idea of having it a hair loose even though it now works.

andrew, This may seem too simple, but don't you have an owner's manual diagram of the pulley/deck/springs. My Craftsman shows all that stuff. Try download from free site?

Ifixdit said:

On some lawn tractors I have had to replace the idler arm bracket because the deck wears a spot down on it. You'll need to remove the spring and take the pulley off to get down to the bracket itself to inspect it for wear. Usually you have to put a wrench under the pulley while you loosen the pulley nut with another wrench or socket. Good luck and keep us posted.

Click to expand...

The idler arm get to notches worn in it where the blade brakes rub constantly. if you take the arm off and inspect it you will probably see the 2 notches. if you have a good metal file and some time, file the areas with notches into smooth rounded edges so the brake arms can slide easily across them. reassemble and your problem should be fixed.

I'm having the same issue with my 2008 yard machine 13rl771029. I know there are springs missing on the right side of the deck by the brakes but question remains will those springs disengaged the bracket?. If the blades are in the off position they will engage if I were to move the pto in the ON position but will not disengage. I bought the mower for $50 from this guy several years ago since then I repair steering, fuel lines, battery bracket, wire harness(burn by solenoid), replace all tires, clean and repainted the mower and deck. Now, this issue with the PTO cable not disengage is becoming a problem. Can anyone help me out? I'm thinking it could either be springs(which I order today) or the bracket.