Export thread

mower turns over...kinda

#1

K

Kfred92

have an old mower with a 12.5 Briggs engine. Hasn't ran in years. Went to start it and will start To turn over, but then the flywheel locks up- ( engine doesn't crank) but if I manually spin the flywheel free and try again the engine will crank (these cranks aren't hard enough or spining enough for it to turn over and start. I'm wondering is the solenoid bad? Is the starter bad? If it's the solenoid can you rebuild it? Any other thoughts? Battery is fully charged and in good working order. I know it's electric if were talking about starting. Thanks


#2

P

Prest989

What is the model number of the engine? Depending on which Briggs model it is will help determine your problem. Solenoids generally don't drag, they tend to work, or not. A solenoid is generally not cost effective or practical to rebuild, you should be able to pick one up at any dealer for less than $15 bucks. I think your problem may lie within a a failing starter, valves being out of adjustment, or least likely, cam issues. Check your starter out first, then move on from there.


#3

C

chance123

It hasn't run in years so take the spk plg out and crank it for about 15 seconds to circulate some oil and loosen up all the components that haven't moved in years. If that doesn't help, and you're "sure" the battery is at peak and the engine spins easily by hand, then a new starter is in order. Being that long, and once you're past the cranking issue, you might need to clean the gum out of the carb too.


#4

S

SeniorCitizen

Kfred92 said:
have an old mower with a 12.5 Briggs engine. Hasn't ran in years. Went to start it and will start To turn over, but then the flywheel locks up- ( engine doesn't crank) but if I manually spin the flywheel free and try again the engine will crank (these cranks aren't hard enough or spining enough for it to turn over and start. I'm wondering is the solenoid bad? Is the starter bad? If it's the solenoid can you rebuild it? Any other thoughts? Battery is fully charged and in good working order. I know it's electric if were talking about starting. Thanks
Click to expand...
**************************************************************
I don't know how you know the battery is in good working order unless you've had it load tested. But let's just go ahead and say it is in excellent condition for time being.

I would remove the spark plug as suggested and crank it some. Replace the plug and if the same symptoms prevail attach a good set of jumper cables directly to the + starter cable connection at the starter and the - cable connected to the starter case. ( last connection ) If it cranks you don't need a starter. If it doesn't crank and is an over head valve engine the next step is to adjust the valves so the compression relief works during cranking.

This may just save you from buying unnecessary expensive parts.


#5

K

Kfred92

Thanks guys I tried a different starter today and that one did the same as the other so I believe it's the solenoid. Again it's gotta be electrical. But I will check the plug and carb. Is there any tests I can do to see if the starter or solenoid are bad?


#6

scott47429

scott47429

like it was said before i think you need to have the battery load tested even if it is fully shared don't mean its good also look at all the connection make sure there clean and the grounds are grounded good but i think the problem is the battery since another started did the same thing and as said before a solenoid don't normally drag they either work or they don't and if the starter is trying to turn the engine then the solenoid is working but like also said before post the numbers of the engine cause if its over head valve then the valves could be out of adjustment


#7

Carscw

Carscw

Put jumper cables on it if it turns over get a new battery. If does not turn Over take the + side of the jumper cable and touch it to the post on the starter. Report back after you do this

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#8

K

Kfred92

Okay so the model # is 286707 . It's not an OHV but I had the solenoid tested and that's fine. I have no idea what it could be. It wants to turn over then the starter whines. I can spin the flywheel and it does it again. I thought it was the battery but it's fully charged and basically brand new


#9

Carscw

Carscw

Again did you have the battery load tested?
Just because it reads 12 volts does not mean that it is good.
Did you try jumper cables ?

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#10

K

Kfred92

How do you check battery load? I tryed jumper cables and it still acted the sameway as with supplied battery.


#11

Carscw

Carscw

Ok so you put the jumper cables on just like you where jump starting a car.
Leave the - side hooked up and touch the + side to the starter

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#12

K

Kfred92

I'll give it a try, is this to test the load?


#13

Carscw

Carscw

This will tell if your starter is bad. Or if you Are not getting all the power to the starter that it needs.

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#14

Madraven45

Madraven45

Kfred92 said:
have an old mower with a 12.5 Briggs engine. Hasn't ran in years. Went to start it and will start To turn over, but then the flywheel locks up- ( engine doesn't crank) but if I manually spin the flywheel free and try again the engine will crank (these cranks aren't hard enough or spining enough for it to turn over and start. I'm wondering is the solenoid bad? Is the starter bad? If it's the solenoid can you rebuild it? Any other thoughts? Battery is fully charged and in good working order. I know it's electric if were talking about starting. Thanks
Click to expand...

Hey, I had the same problem I think, I sprayed the plastic bendix on the starter with just a shot of WD-40 because it kept sticking in the engaged position. That cured it for my old Murray .

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner


#15

Madraven45

Madraven45

Kfred92 said:
have an old mower with a 12.5 Briggs engine. Hasn't ran in years. Went to start it and will start To turn over, but then the flywheel locks up- ( engine doesn't crank) but if I manually spin the flywheel free and try again the engine will crank (these cranks aren't hard enough or spining enough for it to turn over and start. I'm wondering is the solenoid bad? Is the starter bad? If it's the solenoid can you rebuild it? Any other thoughts? Battery is fully charged and in good working order. I know it's electric if were talking about starting. Thanks
Click to expand...

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner


#16

K

Kfred92

Okay great I'll give it a shot and let you know


#17

K

Kfred92

I just want to make sure I do it right, so I would hook positive cable from charger to starter and leave negative on the battery? I have feeling I'm doing it wrong.


#18

Carscw

Carscw

Jump it from your car - to - + from car to starter post on mower

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#19

C

chance123

see if it cranks WITHOUT the spk plgs. If you checked out everything else, you might have fuel in the cyl from possible float needle not seating. This causes hydraulic lock up. You can't compress liquid.


#20

K

Kfred92

I do smell fuel in the cylinder, but how do I get it out? And I will check the starter again


#21

C

chance123

Kfred92 said:
I do smell fuel in the cylinder, but how do I get it out? And I will check the starter again
Click to expand...

You get it out by simply cranking the engine with the spk plgs removed


#22

R

Raymond

since it's old, engine valve might have to be adjusted. your engine symptoms happen to mine and I wasted a lot of money for repair. It recurred and I don't want to spend money again.I watched "how to adjust mower valve" on YOU TUBE.. i saved a lot of money. It wasn't too bad .. Good Luck


#23

K

Kfred92

So after reading I've discover to believe it's te valves that are out of adjustment. Only problem is it's not a OHV engine and I can't find any how to videos for adjusting the valves. It's a 12.5 hp Briggs and stratton I/c engine. I believe it's the valves because a gentlemen on here told me to crank it over without the plug in. Flywheel spins perfectly with plug out. But locks up with it in. Thanks


#24

K

Kfred92

Also what should they be adjusted too?


#25

Carscw

Carscw

Did you do the test with the jumper cables?
We have a few on here that blame the valves for every thing.

Your battery and or starter is week

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#26

I

ILENGINE

In reference to removing fuel from cylinder

chance123 said:
You get it out by simply cranking the engine with the spk plgs removed
Click to expand...

I really wish people would stop suggesting that you remove the fuel from the cylinder by CRANKING THE ENGINE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS REMOVED.

Everybody thinks it is a really good idea until you expel fuel and the static electric lights the vapors, and goes off in a fireball.

And yes I am talking from experience. Did that to a mower sitting on my landscape trailer, had the spark plug in my hand, plug wire from six inches from anything conductive. First crank sprayed fuel on spark plug hole, and down on trailer, second crank sprayed more fuel over mower and trailer. Third crank lite it. If I hadn't had a fire extinquisher in the truck would have lost the mower and the trailer.

Either use compressed air to dry cylinder or remove plug and let is dry out on its own. Do Not Crank Engine To Remove Fuel From Cylinder.


#27

S

SeniorCitizen

ILENGINE said:
In reference to removing fuel from cylinder



I really wish people would stop suggesting that you remove the fuel from the cylinder by CRANKING THE ENGINE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS REMOVED.

Everybody thinks it is a really good idea until you expel fuel and the static electric lights the vapors, and goes off in a fireball.

And yes I am talking from experience. Did that to a mower sitting on my landscape trailer, had the spark plug in my hand, plug wire from six inches from anything conductive. First crank sprayed fuel on spark plug hole, and down on trailer, second crank sprayed more fuel over mower and trailer. Third crank lite it. If I hadn't had a fire extinquisher in the truck would have lost the mower and the trailer.

Either use compressed air to dry cylinder or remove plug and let is dry out on its own. Do Not Crank Engine To Remove Fuel From Cylinder.
Click to expand...
**************************************************************
Aw Heck, go ahead and do it the easy way with the starter but try grounding the mag first. :biggrin:


#28

C

chance123

ILENGINE said:
In reference to removing fuel from cylinder



I really wish people would stop suggesting that you remove the fuel from the cylinder by CRANKING THE ENGINE WITH THE SPARK PLUGS REMOVED.

Everybody thinks it is a really good idea until you expel fuel and the static electric lights the vapors, and goes off in a fireball.

And yes I am talking from experience. Did that to a mower sitting on my landscape trailer, had the spark plug in my hand, plug wire from six inches from anything conductive. First crank sprayed fuel on spark plug hole, and down on trailer, second crank sprayed more fuel over mower and trailer. Third crank lite it. If I hadn't had a fire extinquisher in the truck would have lost the mower and the trailer.

Either use compressed air to dry cylinder or remove plug and let is dry out on its own. Do Not Crank Engine To Remove Fuel From Cylinder.
Click to expand...

Point well taken and yes caution should be taken. In your case especially being on a trailer with possible other equipment, after the first crank with "that" much fuel spraying out of the cylinder, I'm sure you wished you hadn't cranked it a second and third time LOL Reminds me of when I shorted out a large 6v golf cart battery while on a charger and it blew up in my face. LOL


#29

I

ILENGINE

The fuel in the cylinder was due to float bounce while being hauled down a rough road or two. That was the last time I cranked an engine with fuel in the cylinder. I take that back, I took the plug out of a push mower and grounded the plug wire to the little spark plug wire clip made into the throttle plate, and cranked the engine and blew burning fuel about 5 feet out of the spark plug hole.


#30

Carscw

Carscw

ILENGINE said:
The fuel in the cylinder was due to float bounce while being hauled down a rough road or two. That was the last time I cranked an engine with fuel in the cylinder. I take that back, I took the plug out of a push mower and grounded the plug wire to the little spark plug wire clip made into the throttle plate, and cranked the engine and blew burning fuel about 5 feet out of the spark plug hole.
Click to expand...

It's funny to watch some one do this
Was not fun when I did to a snapper in my garage my wife and friend just stood there while I was running for the hose
Was lucky did not even melt a wire

Sent from my iPhone using LMF


#31

scott47429

scott47429

I'm going to say that since you have tried everything we have told you to try and ave even put another starter on it and had the same result then I'm going to say it is a batter that is weak if you can spin it by hand and it will spin fine without the plug and since its not OHV then the valves wont be out of adjustment so take the battery out and take it to a auto zone or some place that can load test it for you i see them all the time with 12.5 volts in them but still wont crank the engine good luck


#32

K

Kfred92

I wouldn't think the valves were out of adjustment but I wasn't sure. So if it's an L valve the chances of them being out of adjustment are small? I will take the battery and have it load tested. I will try jumping the starter one more time. I'll get the problem solved sooner or later hopefully


#33

S

SeniorCitizen

It's probably at the crusher by now.


Footer Links 1

Top