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Mower drive problems

#1

K

kemper

I have a Husqavarna LGT2654 riding mower that has a hydro transaxle.

The problem is that when I start first start using the mower it moves good. On hills the mower will slow down a bit.

But after using the mower for about 20 minutes it begins to noticably slow down, even on level ground, until finally it will hardly pull itself, even of level ground.

When this happens the mower will not even pull a slight grade.

I have also noticed that when this happens, and the forward pedal is pressed, there is a noticable whinning in the transaxle.

What could be causing this problem. Thanks.


#2

R

Rivets

First thing I would check is the belt tension and condition. The belt should be tight and the idler pulley should turn easily, even after cutting for awhile. When was the last time the belt was changed?


#3

K

KennyV

While you are there checking the condition of the belt... check if the cooling fan is plugged up or the general area around the transmission is blocked with grass... :smile:KennyV


#4

K

kemper

Rivets said:
First thing I would check is the belt tension and condition. The belt should be tight and the idler pulley should turn easily, even after cutting for awhile. When was the last time the belt was changed?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned that it has a new belt, and the last time that I tried to use it I checked and the belt does not slip and the transaxle pulley with the plastic fan on top is turning, but the mower won't move.


#5

K

kemper

KennyV said:
While you are there checking the condition of the belt... check if the cooling fan is plugged up or the general area around the transmission is blocked with grass... :smile:KennyV
Click to expand...
\\


Thanks, I will.


#6

R

Rivets

Have you checked to see if the hydro release lever is all the way in. If it is in the half way position it will give the symptoms you describe.


#7

K

kemper

Rivets said:
Have you checked to see if the hydro release lever is all the way in. If it is in the half way position it will give the symptoms you describe.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have, sorry for the not very compete description of my problem. But I have checked the bypass valve and it is closed.

Thanks.


#8

EngineMan

EngineMan

Anyone read this.........had it on the web...! (husqvarna LGT 2654 want pull up hill)
Tom W
760 Solutions July 18, 2010

"You didn't indicate what model of tractor you have but most likely it is a hydrostatic drive problem . The power is transfered from the engine to the wheels by hydraulic pressure. If the fluid level (hydraulic oil) is low then it won't drive correctly. Follow the owners manual to check the fluid level. The other possibility is if this is an older unit it could actually have water in the oil.The water will not operate correctly. Where did the water come from? The transmission housing, is vented to atmosphere. On a hot humid day, while you're driving, the fluid and housing is heated. When the tractor cools, the ambient humid air enters the housing. When night rolls aroound the water condensing inside the housing. If you're lucky this transaxle may have a drain plug in the bottom. You can remove this and see if the oil looks milky. If it does, I'd drain it all and refill with fresh oil."


#9

EngineMan

EngineMan

I also have this out of the Operator;s Manual

Attachments







#10

EngineMan

EngineMan

If its not fluid/level it could be one of three things
1 supply valve
2 pump
3 Air trapped in transmission


#11

EngineMan

EngineMan

Some more bad new's on this one. This one from complaints.com

LGT2654 hydrstatic drive failure

Husqvarna
US

I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 with a Tiger Torq hydrostatic drive. This drive failed with 162 hrs on the mower. I had it repaired and its failed again with 186 hrs on it. From what I have seen this is a common thing with this drive, not a very heavy duty unit. I had a 94 Yardman that I have used since new and never had any problems with the Hydrogear drive it it. Its a shame I sold it when I bought this LGT2654. I beleive they should replace these or extend the warranty

That's it now, am off to bed...!


#12

K

kemper

Ok, guys, thanks for the replies. I could not find a way to add fluid to the transaxle so I guess it's time to pull the transaxled.

Thanks again.:thumbsup:


#13

fairlaniac

fairlaniac

Having similar issues, did you tear into your axle yet?

Thanks,


#14

K

kemper

fairlaniac said:
Having similar issues, did you tear into your axle yet?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

No, not yet, it probably will be a couple of months before I have the time to do that. But I am going to. I work as a small engine mechanic, and have for 20 years, but have never worked on a Tuff Torx before.

But I am sure they are much like the many I have worked on. Was just hoping someone might know something about this paticular hydro that might be a simple fix. Hopefully when I get inside it the filter will be mostly stopped up and not the pump.


#15

C

chance123

If this has a hydraulic oil filter, that "may" be the problem if it hasn't been changed for a while. That whining sound can be an indication of wear (excess clearences) in the hydro unit.


#16

K

kemper

chance123 said:
If this has a hydraulic oil filter, that "may" be the problem if it hasn't been changed for a while. That whining sound can be an indication of wear (excess clearences) in the hydro unit.
Click to expand...


First, the filter on this unit is internal. And I am afraid you are right about the wear in the hydro. But I am hoping that the filter is partially stopped up and that a new filter will solve the problem. But as I stated before, I have never worked on this paticular hydro and, in my experience, the different hydro's have peculairies all their own and I was hoping that this one might have one that I haven't run across yet and it could be a simple fix.

Wishful thinking I know, but when a new hydro can cost from $500 to $800 wishful thinking is good until you find out that one is wasting his time.:smile:


#17

fairlaniac

fairlaniac

I hope no one minds if I'm jumping in here as I have similar issues? On my LGT2654 when I disengage the trans it doesn't free wheel like it did. When the trans is engaged and the rear on jack stands if I take one wheel and turn it, the other wheel rotates the opposite way. If I grab both wheels and spin them in the same direction you can hear a noise in the rear which sounds like I'm overcoming some kind of a friction disc. Imagine if you could take a car disc brake, aplly the brakes and if you could turn the rotor yoy would get a friction draggign noise. That is the similar noise I'm hearing from my axle, engaged or disengaged. My bely popped off last week so I put a new belt on. It jumped off again the other day. Something is causing the belt to jump off at the rear pulley/fan. It only happens when going from forward to reverse. If the rear were to jamb would the belt jump off the pulley or slip? I'm thinking it would jump as it has been doing so I'm figuring something in my axle is tighteneing up. Soory to be so wordy, I'm just trying to give you the facts.

I am tempted to crack open the rear but since they tell you it's a sealed assembly and a service tech should look at it, will I be able to obtain any parts to fix it?

By the way, how does the power get applied from the belt pulley to the tires. I thought it was all gear driven but if I spin the pulley & fan by hand the rear wheels do not move. With all of the talk about pumps and filters I'll assume it is more involved?

Thanks,


#18

K

kemperhills

fairlaniac said:
I hope no one minds if I'm jumping in here as I have similar issues? On my LGT2654 when I disengage the trans it doesn't free wheel like it did. When the trans is engaged and the rear on jack stands if I take one wheel and turn it, the other wheel rotates the opposite way. If I grab both wheels and spin them in the same direction you can hear a noise in the rear which sounds like I'm overcoming some kind of a friction disc. Imagine if you could take a car disc brake, aplly the brakes and if you could turn the rotor yoy would get a friction draggign noise. That is the similar noise I'm hearing from my axle, engaged or disengaged. My bely popped off last week so I put a new belt on. It jumped off again the other day. Something is causing the belt to jump off at the rear pulley/fan. It only happens when going from forward to reverse. If the rear were to jamb would the belt jump off the pulley or slip? I'm thinking it would jump as it has been doing so I'm figuring something in my axle is tighteneing up. Soory to be so wordy, I'm just trying to give you the facts.

I am tempted to crack open the rear but since they tell you it's a sealed assembly and a service tech should look at it, will I be able to obtain any parts to fix it?

By the way, how does the power get applied from the belt pulley to the tires. I thought it was all gear driven but if I spin the pulley & fan by hand the rear wheels do not move. With all of the talk about pumps and filters I'll assume it is more involved?

Thanks,
Click to expand...


Since I can't look at the unit this is purely a guess. But have you removed the belt and checked to see if the input shaft bearing are worn out. To do so remove the belt, grab the trans input shaft pulley and see if there is any looseness in the bearing. A small amount is normal, but if the pulley will move back and forth very much the bearing is gone. If the bearing wears out it will cause the input shaft pulley to tilt forward and could cause the belt to jump off.

The power in a hydro is applied to the wheels when you move the pedal, or lever, back or forward causing the hydralic fluid to the "hydro motor" to turn. Much like the automatic trans in a car.:smile:


#19

fairlaniac

fairlaniac

I didn't notice any potential bearing movement however if I slap my hand against a tire there is some movement of the rear axle. The movement appears to me at the sheet metal ears off the frame where the 2 bolts each side mount the axle to the frame. It is not a loose movement as all fasteners are tight, it's like a "springy" movement at the mounting ears but I have to wonder if it is enough movement to jump the belt? As I said, the rear axle has some drag even when disengaged.

Thanks,


#20

C

chance123

In general, Hydrostatic xmissions have spool valves and swash plates that change the direction of oil for fwd & rev. Clearences are "very" critical for correct operation. Replacing parts that "appear" worn, don't always cure the problem. It's some of the wear you can't see that can throw you. Unless you know the specs for every piece in the hydro, it's just a crap shoot. Give me an old jack shaft any day LOL


#21

fairlaniac

fairlaniac

I may have found my issue. See pics and page from manual. Item 226 is "Bracket Mount Torque". If you look there are to be t screws item 125 that come in from the front through item 80 "Bracket Strap Torque" and then there are two more screws item 125 that come from the top and through the two hole in the top of item 226. Well as you'll see in the one picture, item 226 (angle) the two hole in the top are mangled up. There are also seration marks from screws that once were there. So no screw and I cannot figure out what those top 2 screws (item 125) screwed into? Does anyone know? It looks like in the one picture looking from the ground up that two cast aluminum fins on the housing are broken. Is there to be something there to bolt onto with the angle bracket item 226? Looks like I'll be fabbing up something to stabilize the torque as it appears the belt coming off is attributed to the axle rotating forward. Anyone disagree? Who would have designed those thin fins to take the torque? I'm sure the two screws came loose and the vibration busted the fins (if they were there). Oh well, out to the garage.

Again I apologize if I semed to hijack the thread. At first I thought we had a common problem. I'm going to copy this on my original post on the topic.

Thanks to all!
lgt2654%20001.jpg


lgt2654%20002.jpg


lgt2654%20004.jpg


PDF of manual showing item 226 http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lgt2654 chassis.pdf


#22

fairlaniac

fairlaniac

Found the real issue. The two bolts tha tcome from the top through the angle bracket actually thread into the upper half of the rear housing. These two bolts were sheared flush. So I pulled the rear axle and drilled out the broken bolts and actually installed heli-coils. I'm going to use studs and loc-tite them in and use nuts and lock washers to fasten the axle to the angle bracket. Piece of cake. I also notice the two flanges on the frame where the acle bolts to is all but ripped off. It seem the axle was rotating forward and backward without the broken bolts and tore the sheet metal frame. So I'll weld them up tomorrow and back it up with some 1/8 thick angle iron. After that it should be solid as a rock again and the rear axle should not rotate fore or aft.

Thanks,


#23

K

kemper

Ok, guys, I thank you for you help and wish to ask another question. Does anyone know if there is a Peerless or Hydro Gear replacement for the TuffTorq hydro transaxle I have in this mower. I have had a good deal of experience with these two transaxles and have very little bad to say abot either. But this TuffTorq, well from the info I have found on the web seems to suggest that they are just not dependable.

As this mower is a 54" cut and cuts very well I would like to keep it if possible, but really don't know that I want to deal with this TuffTorq transaxle.


#24

A

apprin

I understand that this is a unanimous problem that consumers are having with this product. When I purchased the mower, I was concerned about the absence of hydraulic fluid drain and filler plugs; however, I took a chance. At ninety hours of normal use, the transmission will not reverse if there is ANY restriction and then, very slowly. It has no real power in forward mode either. This problem was obviously found in testing but Husqvarna elected to market the item anyway, likely because their transmission supplier was allowed to dupe them. The choice? Pass the duping on to the consumer. How can we fix this? Where would be a practical and safe spot to tap drain and filler plugs? It makes me furious when a mfgr does this. The very idea that the unit is "sealed" and "no user access" has always been a red flag for me but I guess I fell victim to good marketing efforts. I realize that these units are little more than an assembly of components purchased from various suppliers; however, Husqvarna sets the specs and does the testing. Is there ANY way for a consumer to get some repairs? Advice? Direction? Husq. should be hit with a class action suit, just to get their attention.


#25

exotion

exotion

Can you take the hose off? Could use a siphon to pull the old stuff out and creativity tip the machine to fill? Rather than drilling because drilling makes metal shavings that could lead to worse problems


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