Craftsman 917.275662 built August 05. I just bought it at a garage sale, and everything works great except shifter will not move more than an inch or so into reverse. With lots of pressure on the shift lever I can make it inch its way backwards. Goes forward like it's supposed to. I saw a thread on here from years ago with the exact same problem but never saw any solution. Has anyone any experience with this kind of problem. In my opinion it could have nothing to do with oil but must be a mechanical problem, either in linkage, adjustment, or I suppose something inside the gearbox could be not allowing it to move as it should. I know nothing about HOW this is supposed to work to get it to travel the length of the shifter slot.
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Lever doesn't move into reverse on Hydrogear transaxle
- Thread starter joat
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Export threadmechanic mark
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Manual Craftsman Tractor 917275662 | SearsPartsDirect First make sure rod at backside of tractor is pushed in all the way, inspect all linkages for binding from shifter to transmission, read through manual to familiarize yourself with tractor. When replacing parts always use Sears OEM parts, same for engine, if Kohler engine use Kohler parts.
Manual Craftsman Tractor 917275662 | SearsPartsDirect First make sure rod at backside of tractor is pushed in all the way, inspect all linkages for binding from shifter to transmission, read through manual to familiarize yourself with tractor. When replacing parts always use Sears OEM parts, same for engine, if Kohler engine use Kohler parts.
Took off the hitch plate and RR wheel, disconnected linkage to see if anything prior to the control arm was binding. Everything OK there. Removed brake bracket on the transmission, the spring-loaded nut and washers on the bolt that is in the slot in the control arm. I saw at that point the control arm was moving as far as the bolt in the slot would allow in reverse. Started loosening the bolt that holds the control arm to whatever it operates. The bolt is so hard to turn I am afraid to go any further for fear of it breaking. With it a couple of bolt turns loose, the shfter on the fender moves all the way into reverse as well as forward, with an equal amount of extra space in the control arm slot in reverse and forward. Whatever the control arm turns is turning also back and forth. So, I'm wondering if the control arm is made for a spline, and if maybe someone has had this apart and assembled it out of adjustment. Or maybe it slipped a notch. I'm posting just in case anyone has an idea (before I put it all back together) on whether or not I've lucked onto a solution, and if when I put it all back together it's going to work right? It's 6/22 at 1 o'clock. If I do not hear shortly, I'll go put it all back together. Am really wondering if the control arm is made for a splined shaft??
shiftsuper175607
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Craftsman 917.275662 built August 05. I just bought it at a garage sale, and everything works great except shifter will not move more than an inch or so into reverse. With lots of pressure on the shift lever I can make it inch its way backwards. Goes forward like it's supposed to. I saw a thread on here from years ago with the exact same problem but never saw any solution. Has anyone any experience with this kind of problem. In my opinion it could have nothing to do with oil but must be a mechanical problem, either in linkage, adjustment, or I suppose something inside the gearbox could be not allowing it to move as it should. I know nothing about HOW this is supposed to work to get it to travel the length of the shifter slot.
Worked on one recently and the shift linkage was rusty...it had a ball pivot on each end. One end was froze up.
If the same problem, if you keep forcing it you will break it....$$$$
You need to get under and give it a good look over and do some lubing/oiling.
mechanic mark
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Purchase a can of Liquid Wrench brand penetrating oil at Walmart, auto parts store, etc. spray it down & let it soak twenty minutes or so & give it a try, I would also pick up a can of Lubricating Oil same brand to lube all moving parts. Download manual from my post above & see page 24 for adjustment procedure.
Purchase a can of Liquid Wrench brand penetrating oil at Walmart, auto parts store, etc. spray it down & let it soak twenty minutes or so & give it a try, I would also pick up a can of Lubricating Oil same brand to lube all moving parts. Download manual from my post above & see page 24 for adjustment procedure.
Thanks, guys. I had downloaded the manual the day I bought the mower, soaked the thing in PB Blaster last week (THE BEST RUST buster I have ever used, bar none). Rust, corrosion, or sticking linkage had nothing to do with this, however. The control arm on the transaxle was moving its full limit. Discovered that only after I took off the spring loaded nut (washers, spring, nut) and could see the travel in the control arm slot. I knew the problem was not linkage: I had disconnected the linkage in stages to see what was moving its full travel and what might not be, found no problems, and got down to the transaxle control arm. Loosening the bolt holding it to the shaft caused everything to travel as it should. I thought it might have been on a spline and slipped a notch, but I finally inched the bolt out that held it on and it's on a square end of a shaft, and I knew it had not slipped 90 degrees. Long story short, I still don't know what the probem was, , because the control arm is not traveling as far as it had originally in the slot (not to its limit), but the shift is perfect, forward, neutral, and reverse.
About PB Blaster. Last year I was trying to replace all the spndle bearings in a 3-spindle Bush Hog finish mower. I soaked them in a popular rust spray, and got to the point I was willing to sacrifice the shafts. I beat on them with a 16 lb sledge and they did not budge. Again and Again, day after day. Went on a forum and was told to get PB Blaster. I thought "this won't do any good," but as I've heard that my grandfather used to say, "It warn't no good like it was, Georgie." I sprayed PB Blaster on the shafts, and after a time went out and knocked all 3 out easily. Available at Wally World even. Try it.
shiftsuper175607
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Thanks, guys. I had downloaded the manual the day I bought the mower, soaked the thing in PB Blaster last week (THE BEST RUST buster I have ever used, bar none). Rust, corrosion, or sticking linkage had nothing to do with this, however. The control arm on the transaxle was moving its full limit. Discovered that only after I took off the spring loaded nut (washers, spring, nut) and could see the travel in the control arm slot. I knew the problem was not linkage: I had disconnected the linkage in stages to see what was moving its full travel and what might not be, found no problems, and got down to the transaxle control arm. Loosening the bolt holding it to the shaft caused everything to travel as it should. I thought it might have been on a spline and slipped a notch, but I finally inched the bolt out that held it on and it's on a square end of a shaft, and I knew it had not slipped 90 degrees. Long story short, I still don't know what the probem was, , because the control arm is not traveling as far as it had originally in the slot (not to its limit), but the shift is perfect, forward, neutral, and reverse.
About PB Blaster. Last year I was trying to replace all the spndle bearings in a 3-spindle Bush Hog finish mower. I soaked them in a popular rust spray, and got to the point I was willing to sacrifice the shafts. I beat on them with a 16 lb sledge and they did not budge. Again and Again, day after day. Went on a forum and was told to get PB Blaster. I thought "this won't do any good," but as I've heard that my grandfather used to say, "It warn't no good like it was, Georgie." I sprayed PB Blaster on the shafts, and after a time went out and knocked all 3 out easily. Available at Wally World even. Try it.
good recommendation.
At the plant we used a product called Kroil in an orange can.
quote on can said "the oil that creeps"
It seemed to work very well.
Thanks, Supershifter. I had read/heard good things about Kroll but haven't seen it on the shelves. Thanks for all who chimed in on he hydro gear. Wish I could say exactly what cured my problem for others who might see this later, but don't know anything about what goes on inside the transaxle. My grandfather mentioned above is quoted as saying to my grandmother (Georgia--never knew either of them) after this kind of thing, and she'd ask "What was wrong?" and he'd say, "It was broke!" And she'd say, "What'd you do?" and he'd reply, "I fixed it!" That's about all I know on this. Paid $37.50 for the Craftsman just to get the 20 hp Kohler and thought I'd junk the rest, but now I'm mowing the field with it and saving "El Cheapo" Cub RZT42 Zero turn for the closer work.