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Change oil diagram if that does not work it a bad hydro.
https://www.tufftorqservices.com/En... & Checking Oil in the K46AM Transmission.pdf

The John Deere L130 has a sealed transmission. There is no way to drain or add fluids except for taking the unit out and opening. Any more suggestions? Could it be a bad brake wire keeping the transmission from engaging?

Make sure the pulley on the transaxle is turning when you try to go forward.
Have a helper look.

Look at the axles make sure one of them is not turning inside the wheel.

When you pull the release lever so you can push it can you push it?

You have the Tuff Torq HD K46 trans and I just posted a picture and how to drain and refill. Remove 4 bolts and jack body up to refill.

When I call John Deere they told me that the transmission was sealed,,, it did not have a way to add or drain without opening up the transmission. They may be incorrect,, I'll check,,,, saw your attachment,,,, thanks.

When I pull the gear release in the back,,, the lawmower pushes fairly easy,,,, when it engaged it difficult to push.

Will check if the pully is turning and will also check the shaft.

I will take off the back tires and look for the filler area,,, but according to John Deere out to Ennis, it's a sealed unit,,, maybe they got it wrong hoping I'd bring it in instead of checking the fluid levels,,, Thanks for the info.

Bill

Guess who does not make that trans. I gave you info from the manufacture not John Deere.

"I have replaced the drive belt, I have replaced the pto switch "

Did you do this before or after the problem started?

william j smith jr said:

When I call John Deere they told me that the transmission was sealed,,, it did not have a way to add or drain without opening up the transmission. They may be incorrect,, I'll check,,,, saw your attachment,,,, thanks. When I pull the gear release in the back,,, the lawmower pushes fairly easy,,,, when it engaged it difficult to push. Will check if the pully is turning and will also check the shaft. I will take off the back tires and look for the filler area,,, but according to John Deere out to Ennis, it's a sealed unit,,, maybe they got it wrong hoping I'd bring it in instead of checking the fluid levels,,, Thanks for the info. Bill

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That is exactly what john deere tells everyone they sold equipment to with this rear end in it. The rear end is refillable, and rebuild able. I've done many. John deere put the wrong fluid in these when they were assembled. The rear ends were shipped to JD by tuff torq, dry, with instructions to fill them with 15w50 synthetic oil. They filled them with 10w30 instead. That runs them hot and then burn up the pump, and motor, inside the unit .

I noticed the transmission was not driving forward through tall grass,,, so I replace the drive belt. I did tip the lawnmower straight up which may have allowed the fluid to competely drain, but I didn't see any oil or fluid leakage,,, so after replacing the drive belt,,, I broke the pto switch trying to plug it back in,,, so I replaced the pto switch and the blades kick in correctly.

I have had the mower for years, but I didn't run it much some years,,,,, The last guy said that it wasn't a sealed rear end, so I'm going to check the fluid levels tomorrow. I will also replace the gear oil and trans fluid before I purchase a new one. Hopefully that works, if not, I'll purchase a new one or have the one rebuilt. I have found new k46's from 300 to 500 dollars,,, not sure what a rebuilt will cost

Thanks for the infor,,, I've learned a lot from this blog. By the way,,, anyone know what the average cost on a rebuilt k46 rear axel for a John Deere L130 costs? I would truly appreciate any input

Bill

redleg62 said:

That is exactly what john deere tells everyone they sold equipment to with this rear end in it. The rear end is refillable, and rebuild able. I've done many. John deere put the wrong fluid in these when they were assembled. The rear ends were shipped to JD by tuff torq, dry, with instructions to fill them with 15w50 synthetic oil. They filled them with 10w30 instead. That runs them hot and then burn up the pump, and motor, inside the unit .

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I would love to see a link to a page that states this from Tuff Torq.

From the Tuff Torq website. Specs:

Oil 　 SAE 10W-30 Class CD (1.9L)

I understand this is an old thread but I'm just wondering if the problem was resolved? I'm currently having exactly the same issue with my L110.

Cheers
Chris

Tuff torq sent me rebuild deails.
They specified 20W50 fully synthetic for old trannies

Thanks for the reply. I did notice you're not the OP, did you happen to have the same problem and rectified it with a rebuild or oil change? I'll see if I can get in touch with Tuff Torq.

Cheers
Chris

Yes,
I repair mowers.
Not exactly a common problem but do 1 or so every year.
Also do 1 or so imput shafts with worn out splines so rip it out and have a look.
Before you think about opening the lid, give the box a really good scrub.
A tiny amount of dust will stuff one of these boxes in no time flat.

The fit between the pulley & the shaft is not the best

Thanks mate, I really appreciate you responding so quick, and your advice. I'll give it a go.

Cheers
Chris

There are 2 or 3 You tube videos of pulling down that box.

Remove the transaxle from your mower. Turn it upside down and you can drain all the old fluid out. I refilled my LA 120 Tuff Torq with Royal Purple 20w/50 2 years ago [trans started slipping when hot at 89 hours on the mower] and it pulls uphill better than when new. I did talk to Tuff Torq on the phone [their web site says use 10w/30] and was told to refill with 10w/40 synthetic. My thinking was if 10w/40 is good, 20w/50 should be better here in central Texas with the heat! Be sure to tip it around when refilling to get all the air out and after re-installing slowly go forward and reverse when first testing, it may need more fluid to get to the full level, which is about 1/2 inch below the fill plug opening! If you need to add some, be creative in making a funnel, I used clear hose and snaked it down from a side hole near the seat. If your trans has severe damage this may not fix it and a rebuild or replacement will be needed. If it does not move after this you are out your labor and 2 1/2 quarts of oil.....plan on spilling some oil when re-filling.

I have a LA 140 and a 150 in my back yard. 1 with only 200 hours on it with a good transaxel. Have a 150 in my shop with 600 hours on it still going good with original trans. My wife uses it to pull a trailer around the yard. She also mows the yard with it. I have used it once or twice to mow a customers yard when a ztr was down and I was to busy to be a mower down. Guess you get lucky once in awhile with the cheap trans axles.

Old thread, I know, but I experienced the same thing yesterday after mowing heavy grass 3 hours straight with my 3 month old E130, which has the fluid driven hydrostatic transmission like your L130, so I shut it off and went on to something else. When I came back to it 3 or 4 hours later, all was back to well. No problems. So either this is a safety feature, at least on my E130, that simply disengages the transmission when the fluid reaches a certain temperate in order to prevent burning it up or a quirk of hydrostatic transmissions. Can't say as this is my first one. Just know it is a little annoying not being able to finish all my mowing in one session, but if it is a safety feature, I'm very glad it's there to protect my investment.

william j smith jr said:

I have replaced the drive belt, I have replaced the pto switch , (and the blades engage when the engine is running),,, I have checked the back pull leaver to make sure the mover drive is engaged and is not in the push by hand position. The mower will start,,, the blades will engage,,, but the mower will not move forward or backward. Anyone ever have this problem?

I am presently going to get a 20 amp fuse because I just blew the one that was in it. What could be causing this mower not to move forward or backward.
The back drive is sealed and there is no place to add hydrolic oil ,,, and there is no way to check the levels,,, When inspecting the back,,, there is no excess oil on the outside leading me to think that the rear end is leaking any hydrolic oil.

Any suggestions?

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IF you 3 month old mower is doing this, take it back to the dealer while it is still under warranty, there is a problem, an expensive problem.

william j smith jr said:

I have replaced the drive belt, I have replaced the pto switch , (and the blades engage when the engine is running),,, I have checked the back pull leaver to make sure the mover drive is engaged and is not in the push by hand position. The mower will start,,, the blades will engage,,, but the mower will not move forward or backward. Anyone ever have this problem?

I am presently going to get a 20 amp fuse because I just blew the one that was in it. What could be causing this mower not to move forward or backward.
The back drive is sealed and there is no place to add hydrolic oil ,,, and there is no way to check the levels,,, When inspecting the back,,, there is no excess oil on the outside leading me to think that the rear end is leaking any hydrolic oil.

Any suggestions?

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i have a L110a and have the same problem. did it get solved, and how?