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So I found a 14 SB in the trash, hauled it home, cleaned the carb, set the plug added fuel and the beast fired up first pull and runs like a swiss watch. I have two low end sears mowers at home but this machine is clearly a class apart and seems worth saving for the engine alone. The external safety latch on the bbc was broken so I took apart the housing and removed the safety mechanism so I could check that the clutch functions. the clutch engages well so I figure it is worth investing $50 in a new bbc module and cables plus an oil change and filters etc. before i start spending money My final hurdle to get the basics functioning is i cant see how to easily to replace the (broken) transmission cable.
So, does anyone know if I need to pull the engine and transmission to connect the cable at the transmission end? I can't see much with the drive pulley in the way but I can move the selector level and feel the broken part of the cable plus all five gear position.
Any help would be appreciated.
E

It is a good mower. Don't know if you're into it this much yet, but you can get a technical manual for cheap here.

John Deere 14SB Walk Behind Push Mower Service Manual Technical Manual TM1471 PDF Download

bwdbrn1 said:

It is a good mower. Don't know if you're into it this much yet, but you can get a technical manual for cheap here.

John Deere 14SB Walk Behind Push Mower Service Manual Technical Manual TM1471 PDF Download

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Thanks, but i want to hold off buying the service manual until i verify that all the expensive sub-assemblies are still functional. i was hoping someone on the forum would chime in with help but guess i will take the motor off and remove the axle this weekend to see how things look under there first hand.

Send me a PM about which cable for sure you're talking about, and I'll look in the manual I have to give you the run down on what to do.

I wouldn't recommend taking the engine off just yet, if you don't have to. One work of caution, be careful with the studs that hold the BBC to the engine. They like to twist off and JD wants about 15 bucks a pop for them.

Welcome to LawnMowerForum!

I moved your thread to the John Deere forum. :smile:

hello, remove pulley off of transmission with a 17mm socket. then you have to remove 2 bolts holding cable down . you can then remove cable from trans arm.

wrenchheadred said:

hello, remove pulley off of transmission with a 17mm socket. then you have to remove 2 bolts holding cable down . you can then remove cable from trans arm.

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Thanks wrenchheadred.
I picked up a new control cable today and got it installed per your instructions and now the beast is rolling again. Thank you.

Whilst on the subject, I'd like to raise the design of the cable assembly as negative on the machine.- Given the high quality design of the rest of the mower I have to say that the way the speed control cable enters the main casting and secures to the transmission is pitiful. A real piece of Friday afternoon engineering along with the cheap plastic wheels.
i guess JD needed a couple of weak points to keep their service department busy.
Maybe I'm picky or maybe the rest of my JD experience has raised my standards. It was dark by the time I finished the service and cable installation so I'll cut some grass in the morning and will give an update on the repairs made to to get her rolling.

glad you got it going i have two of them one for sale that needs some trans work but the other i use and wouldnt trade it for anything new thats out there its a great mower i love using it runs so smooth and quiet and i love the BBC i try and get all of them i can when i see them for sale great mowers and hold there value very well

scott47429 said:

glad you got it going i have two of them one for sale that needs some trans work but the other i use and wouldnt trade it for anything new thats out there its a great mower i love using it runs so smooth and quiet and i love the BBC i try and get all of them i can when i see them for sale great mowers and hold there value very well

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:smile: The beast lives!:smile:
Thanks so much to bwdbrn1 and wrenchheadred for helping me bring the ugly duckling back to life.

To get her running i had to spend the following:
$38 for a BBC module and cable (ebay)
$23 for a speed control cable (Austin Turf and Tractor - super guys btw)
$2.68 for a clutch return spring (Austin Turf and Tractor)
$13.00 for the BBC bail arm lever (ebay)
~$40 for oil/air & fuel filters, fuel hose & engine oil (Austin Turf and Tractor)

So i ended up spending ~$120 on an old beast that still needs a new blade and rear wheels.
Having seen how well it cuts for 20yr old mower with a curly blade I'd gladly put another $50 in it to get some traction.

So I have a bag for the mower but no mulch plug. If anyone has some advice on whether to mulch or not please let me know? I may bag this year and keep an eye out for a cheap mulch plug.
Again, thanks so much to everyone for their help. :thumbsup:

I picked up one of these for mine. It was evidently what John Deere used prior to the plastic mulch plug, and is much less expensive than the plastic one.

New John Deere BM17433 Mulching Plate Fits 14SB 14PZ 14SE Walk Mowers | eBay

I also happen to have an extra "John" in John Deere out in my garage. It's yours if you want it for the cost of mailing it if you were to decide to do some painting and refurbishing of the finish. Mine just needed the "Deere" part of the name, and couldn't find just the last name, so I'm left with the first name.

Here's the one I had before I replaced the name, and right before I sold it. I've since added electric start to the Honda in the picture, and it's going to be my daily driver. Those two mowers went head to head on the market back in the day.

yeah i would go the rout of the plate not the plug its cheaper i bought the bag and rear discharge chute for mine after i got it going and i use the much mode alot more i never use the bag it fills up to fast but i love mine if you ever need anotyher one i have one that needs some work

bwdbrn1 said:

I wouldn't recommend taking the engine off just yet, if you don't have to. One work of caution, be careful with the studs that hold the BBC to the engine. They like to twist off and JD wants about 15 bucks a pop for them.

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Just curious are these studs something specal to cost 15 dollars each? and what does BBC stand for?

Well, those bolts as I call them, studs as John Deere calls them, are kind of odd. Plus, it says John Deere on the label, which might account for something. It's number 10 in this parts diagram.

John Deere - Parts Catalog


A BBC Stands for Blade Brake Clutch. Mine had the Ogura BBC, later ones I guess had a Warner BBC.