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Greetings All,

I've been having an intermittent starting problem since I obtained my 2000 MTD Yard Machines last August, but I honestly do not know if this symptomology is specific to the starter itself, or another component.

I can usually start the mower on the first try. But every once in a while, I turn the key and I get either nothing (90% of failures) or very rarely the clicking sound of what I presume is a solenoid (this occurs less than 10% of failures).

Here's the interesting part: if it fails either way after two key turn attempts, then simply pulling the battery terminal connection and reconnecting it has always solved the problem. Today I was able to eliminate the battery by using a brand new battery that I had topped-off with a charger minutes beforehand. I experienced the same problem even with the new battery.

Any thoughts on the most likely culprit?

-David

Check the ground terminals on both the chassis ground from the battery and the solenoid ground. They must be very clean and tight. If you have a three terminal solenoid, the metal mounting part is your ground. Many techs run a separate ground wire from the metal plate to a good chassis ground.

Thank you for the reply Rivets, I'll check on that the next day I have some spare time...

Sorry it took so long to reply Rivets.

Well, I think I fixed the problem. I can now start the mower every time now. I just don't know which off the two fixes that I performed was the solution.

First I worked on the actual starter, which has a double-nut configuration. The outter nut was nice and tight against the inner nut, but it turned out that the inner nut was super loose to the starter. I took all of them off, cleaned each of them with a wire-brush, then snugged up the inner nut to the starter, and then placed the electrical feed sandwiched between the inner and outter nuts, and then tightened-up outter nut till it felt secure.

Second I observed that there was a great deal of rust on the underside of the seat where the two springs touch the seat plate. I scoured that connection as well and suddenly all good.

Wish I would have remembered to try starting the engine after each fix. Oh well. Thank you again!

-David

Glad to hear you’ve got it fixed. Willing to bet that the loose nuts were your problem.

So an update in the ongoing saga:

Yesterday, I chanced to dismount the seat while the engine was going. I had stopped the mower deck and placed the drive gear into Park, which normally would allow me to exit the seat safely, but when I got off the seat this time, the engine started to shutdown.

At the same time, after the engine had completed it's shutdown, I could then begin to hear the starter whizzing at a very high RPM, but was not engaging the engine at all, just spinning freely on it's own...

Realizing that the ignition was still turned on, I quickly moved of the ignition key to the off position, but that did nothing, so I started to panic and rushed to remove the cable from the battery, which took about a minute or two.

When I finally removed the battery cable, the horrific whizzing stopped. When I touched the starter, I found that it was incredibly hot to the touch. It was late and I was a little freaked that I may have killed the starter, so I packed it in for the night.

Today when I got home from work today, I reconnected battery and attempted to restart the mower. When trying to activate the starter, it still wants to make the high-RPM whizzing sound, and will not engage the engine. It seems to again be spinning freely?

Have I destroyed the starter? Where should I go from here?

Sounds as though the starter "Bendix" is the problem, post your engine model numbers so we can give you the correct repair manual. If you didn't run the starter too long it should be OK, after you remove the starter you can test it with jumper cables.

Sounds to me you have two problems. First would be either a bad key switch or bad solenoid. Either or both of these would cause the starter to continuely spin. After you solve this problem, you will probably have to pull the starter and replace the starter bendix will is probably ruined.

Greetings Boobala & Rivets!

ENGINE INFO Tecumseh 15.5 HP Engine
Engine Model: OHV155 204509E
Engine Family: WTPSX.4902AA
Engine Displacement: 490.
Uses Regular Unleaded gas, and SAE30 Weight Oil.
D.O.M.: 9300 D (made on 300th day of 1999, so most likely a 2000 model year)

I've read-up on replacing the bendix gear and I'm confident that I can replace it.

I'm not at all sure about how to replace the solenoid as the mower is currently using a four-pole (but is only actively using 3 of the 4). Is this an occasion where I can utilize a 3 pole replacement? Lastly, nothing even comes close to looking like my solenoid, what would I want to look for in a replacement?

Thank you both for your contributions! It is greatly appreciated!

DAMatson said:

Greetings Boobala & Rivets!

ENGINE INFO Tecumseh 15.5 HP Engine
Engine Model: OHV155 204509E
Engine Family: WTPSX.4902AA
Engine Displacement: 490.
Uses Regular Unleaded gas, and SAE30 Weight Oil.
D.O.M.: 9300 D (made on 300th day of 1999, so most likely a 2000 model year)

I've read-up on replacing the bendix gear and I'm confident that I can replace it.

I'm not at all sure about how to replace the solenoid as the mower is currently using a four-pole (but is only actively using 3 of the 4). Is this an occasion where I can utilize a 3 pole replacement? Lastly, nothing even comes close to looking like my solenoid, what would I want to look for in a replacement?

Thank you both for your contributions! It is greatly appreciated!

Click to expand...

The solenoid is USUALLY, a part of the mower itself, supplied from the manufacturer, so, now we need the mower model number (usually found under the seat,) most likely, if you've been using a 3 pole solenoid, that's all it needs.

Boobala said:

The solenoid is USUALLY, a part of the mower itself, supplied from the manufacturer, so, now we need the mower model number (usually found under the seat,) most likely, if you've been using a 3 pole solenoid, that's all it needs.

Click to expand...

I am not disagreeing with Boo I am just letting you know what I do. I replace all 3 pole solenoid with 4 pole and make a ground wire and hook it up. I find it the more reliable form of a ground.

BlazNT said:

I am not disagreeing with Boo I am just letting you know what I do. I replace all 3 pole solenoid with 4 pole and make a ground wire and hook it up. I find it the more reliable form of a ground.

Click to expand...

I'll agree with you on that ! you can pick up a ol Ford (fender mount type for around $8.00-$10.00 at an auto parts store,) AND .. they'e heavy-duty to boot !

Boobala said:

The solenoid is USUALLY, a part of the mower itself, supplied from the manufacturer, so, now we need the mower model number (usually found under the seat,) most likely, if you've been using a 3 pole solenoid, that's all it needs.

Click to expand...

I carry 2 solenoids.
A universal fit 3 pole & a universal fit 4 pole.
A solenoid is just a switch, nothing fancy or unique about them.
Stens, Rotary, Oregon & Prime Line all do universal solenoids.
I used to stock the prime line ones as they seemed to be better quality ( made in Brazil or Mexico ) but they exited Aust 4 years ago.
heavy duty ones like starter solenoids usually have diode or shunt in there so they won't work in the battery voltage is too low.

Good morning Boobala!

Unfortunately, the ID Tag under the seat was missing when I bought the mower, so with ILEngine's help, I've determined the closest model to what I actually have is:

Mower Model: 13A6672G129 (you can see that thread here)


Good morning BlazNT and Bertsmobile1!

Thank you for adding to the conversation! I can appreciate that a "solenoid is just a switch". I'll see about grabbing a Ford replacement so as to ensure it's more heavy-duty compared to a traditional MTD/Tecumseh replacement solenoid. Also, on that topic, I'll get a 4 Pole version, and just run a new lead to a freshly created grounding point. It appears that I'll spend around approximately $10 for the new 4 Pole solenoid.

If the current starter still spins freely when the ignition key is turned, does it sound like I can avoid replacing the entire starter? Personally, I'm hoping that I only need replace the bendix gear assembly. I don't know if I have a traditional starter or an opposed starter, so not sure what replacement kit to get.

Lastly, does anyone have a preferred source they'd like to recommend to buy the replacement gear kit, or even the solenoid?

Thank you all for your time and contributions in helping me resolve my latest adventure in small engine repair!

-David

Here's where to get a few manuals :

USE these numbers to fill in the form, I got the SERIAL number from another posting ( really doesn't matter in your case )

Model # 13A6672G129 .... Serial # 1E050B40171
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do

get em ALL !

also here's a good parts place .. https://www.partstree.com/parts/mtd...or-2001-home-depot/electrical-over-head-valve

Other parts places :
(sjmparts,com) ... (ereplacementparts.com) ... (repairclinic.com) ... (equipatron.com) ... ( jasckssmallengines.com)
it pays to shop for prices .... DON'T forget S&H charges, some places have a flat rate charge ($9.95 @ sjmparts) for instance ...

Ok, finally had some good weather and got out to remove starter.

Big shock, it looks like the bendix gear is in great shape physically. It's metal, and barely worn.

I hooked it back onto the engine block and positive wire such that I could see the gear spin when I turned the key. It spins, but barely lifts upward to engage the large engine block gear during the spin process.

The bendix is made up of two gears. One you see which engages the starter to the ring gear and the other, which you can’t see, drives the bendix up the starter shaft. This one is probably bad and then you replace the entire bendix.

Found a lil info for ya, ... checkin the manual for your ENGINE, starter is item # 395 .. the P/N = 36795 from what I see
found MANY prices for complete starter but you may get by with just parts you will have to check YOUR starter..check through this info and go from there.....

....

https://www.partstree.com/parts/tec...cle-vertical-engine/engine-parts-list-ohv15a/

https://www.partstree.com/parts/tecumseh/carburetors/es12-1-36795/electric-starter/

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumseh/36795starter.html

https://www.partstree.com/parts/tec...5-tecumseh-electric-starter/electric-starter/

BE SURE to buy your parts from a reputable parts dealer , a previous posting names some..

In case ya need it here's your engine repair Manual, starter info ( very little is on pg. 48 )

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehoverheadvalvemanual.pdf

Ok, so I took the Starter Bendix gear assembly apart, found no problems with the hardware, other than some minor wear (expected). Parts work fine when manually advancing gears up the threads, so all appeared ok at first glance.

What I found is that while the parts are fine and lube works to allow manual lifting of gearset, centrifugal forces are unable to spin the gear assembly upward because gear assembly seems locked to base during the initial startup spin.

Some additional investigation shows that some other knowledgeable folks recommended NOT USING any wet lube on thread and bottom gear, instead using a DRY LUBE. Since the parts looked fine and I did in fact have wet lube on gearset, I cleaned off the WET LUBE and used DRY LUBE instead, and now the assembly floats-up and engages the engine flywheel gear. Success in this regard!

However, when I turned-off engine via the ignition key, the starter continued to remain engaged and turning (although I thought I observed the spring successfully forcing the bendix gear back down at one point). I have not yet replaced the Solenoid. Does this continued weirdness on behalf of the Starter help prove that the Solenoid is indeed defective, or could this be yet another facet of the Starter that might still be failing?

-David

A faulty solenoid or ignition switch are the 2 most likely suspects.
Remove the power wire to the starter from the solenoid.
Turn the ignition switch to start then back t run several times.
While doing this, with your 3rd pair of hands measure both the power at the solenoid starter terminal and power at the trigger wire .

IF you get power at the starter terminal and none at the trigger then the solenoid is duff.

If you get power at the trigger terminal when the ignition switch has been turned back to run then the ignition switch is duff or the start relay is duff ( if you have one )

Thank you bertsmobile1!

I'll give that a test tonight after work, weather permitting.

Good morning Rivets!

Thank you for the info. I think that the Dry Lube was the key in resolving the failure of the Bendix to "lift-off" based on the centrifugal forces involved.

I appreciate your suggestions!

-David

Greetings Boobala!

I'm most appreciative of the links you provided. Very helpful in determining what parts I need to get. Thank you!

-David

DAMatson said:

Greetings Boobala!

I'm most appreciative of the links you provided. Very helpful in determining what parts I need to get. Thank you!

-David

Click to expand...

Just trying to help a fella in a pickle" .... Good Luck .. and keep us posted !

Hello Bertsmobile1!

bertsmobile1 said:

Remove the power wire to the starter from the solenoid.
Turn the ignition switch to start then back to run several times.
While doing this, with your 3rd pair of hands measure both the power at the solenoid starter terminal and power at the trigger wire .

• IF you get power at the starter terminal and none at the trigger then the solenoid is duff.

• IF you get power at the trigger terminal when the ignition switch has been turned back to run then the ignition switch is duff or the start relay is duff (if you have one)

Click to expand...

Here's my Solenoid and I've labeled it based on my observations of the electrical wiring.

I'm confused by the readings that I'm getting. Either I'm doing it wrong (most likely), or the solenoid is defective (also a valid possibility).

So I've set my basic voltmeter to DCV, measured the battery from ground strap at solenoid and positive terminal on solenoid ("red from battery") and see 12v. This confirms what I would expect to see on other tests.

Then I tried taking a reading from ground strap from battery and the other big terminal going from the solenoid to the starter and saw nothing when twisting key from run to start several times.
Then I tried taking a reading from ground strap from battery and the small terminal going to the ignition switch (I presume this is what you meant by trigger terminal?) and saw nothing when twisting key from run to start several times.

Am I testing this correctly?

DAMatson said:

Hello Bertsmobile1!


View attachment 36523
Here's my Solenoid and I've labeled it based on my observations of the electrical wiring.

I'm confused by the readings that I'm getting. Either I'm doing it wrong (most likely), or the solenoid is defective (also a valid possibility).

So I've set my basic voltmeter to DCV, measured the battery from ground strap at solenoid and positive terminal on solenoid ("red from battery") and see 12v. This confirms what I would expect to see on other tests.

Then I tried taking a reading from ground strap from battery and the other big terminal going from the solenoid to the starter and saw nothing when twisting key from run to start several times.
Then I tried taking a reading from ground strap from battery and the small terminal going to the ignition switch (I presume this is what you meant by trigger terminal?) and saw nothing when twisting key from run to start several times.

Am I testing this correctly?

Click to expand...

SORRY for "buttin -in" Bert, YES your test is right, to prove the solenoid is bad take a cable (same size wire as BIG solenoid cables, and jumper from battery side of solenoid to starter side of solenoid ( connecting the 2 big posts in essence ) if starter spins, then, as bert says the solenoid is "duff" ( no good) then try connecting battery side of solenoid to the starter terminal, only other thing to check is the ignition switch (power from BATTERY terminal to Starter terminal ( key in start position)

Boobala said:

SORRY for "buttin -in" Bert, YES your test is right, to prove the solenoid is bad take a cable (same size wire as BIG solenoid cables, and jumper from battery side of solenoid to starter side of solenoid ( connecting the 2 big posts in essence ) if starter spins, then, as bert says the solenoid is "duff" ( no good) then try connecting battery side of solenoid to the starter terminal, only other thing to check is the ignition switch (power from BATTERY terminal to Starter terminal ( key in start position)

Click to expand...

I am butting in Boo and too bad for you.:laughing::laughing: He said he had no voltage to the trigger wire from the key switch. I am guessing a bad switch at least if not the solenoid too.

BlazNT said:

I am butting in Boo and too bad for you.:laughing::laughing: He said he had no voltage to the trigger wire from the key switch. I am guessing a bad switch at least if not the solenoid too.

Click to expand...

Hello BlazNT!

I apologize, I have neglected to mention that I had already tested the ignition switch and came to the conclusion that it was good. I tested it by checking for continuity between the S (Starter Solenoid) pin and the B (Battery) pin, more specifically, I saw that continuity while the switch was in START position, but it went away when in RUN and OFF postions.



This is part of my confusion in the second set of results that I posted above. I feel like I should have gotten a 12v reading on that, which is why I'm so stumped...

-David

Pretend you are Toto and follow the yellow brick road, or rather the yellow wire.
From the S position 12 V goes through the PTO switch then through the parking brake switch then to the solenoid

Some where in the chain is the missing link, oops I am mixing up movies.

Maybe a blown fuse or a fusible link. Retest the switch and do it many times like 25 to 30 times. See if it failes even one time. If it does replace the switch.

Good afternoon All,

I finally had time and the cooperation of the weather locally, and went back out to begin checking the wiring as recommended. After giving it some thought, I felt that instead of tearing the harness apart again and retesting everything, that I would reconfirm my previous test results by retesting the Solenoid.

Without changing anything, I now am getting 12V on the lead going to the Ignition Switch S (for Starter Solenoid) pin, which I did not see before, which I believe changes everything. I am still NOT getting any voltage on the side of the Solenoid pole/lead going to the actual Starter itself when I turn ignition key from OFF to START position repeatedly. I did this particular test about 20 times to see if any of them registered, and none did. I of course have 12v at the battery side of the Solenoid, so it does now sound to me like the Solenoid is indeed bad.

Question: it was originally suggested by BlazNT earlier (top of Page-2 I believe) that I create a new wire run on that unused pole and wire it to Ground. If I made sure the Solenoid frame itself is cleaned (wire brush) & grounded to a bare metal portion of the mower frame, along with battery ground strap as well, and if the unused pole remains unwired, could that possibly account for the failure? I'm happy to run it as suggested regardless, but just didn't know if that could possibly account for the test fail, or possibly change the outcome of the test if I ran it...

-David

Rivits suggested about the wire and it was from a solenoid mounting bolt to a good ground. I too agree with Rivits. If you are going to replace the solenoid I always replace with a 4 pole one. Then run a new ground wire to the battery negative. That way I know it is grounded. I still believe it is your ignition switch. But a solenoid is cheap and easy to replace.

If you are not getting 12 volts from the switch back to the solenoid, you have to trace the wire through the safety switches to the solenoid. If you are getting 12 volts on the solenoid post coming from the switch, then I would say bad solenoid.

DAMatson said:

Good afternoon All,

I finally had time and the cooperation of the weather locally, and went back out to begin checking the wiring as recommended. After giving it some thought, I felt that instead of tearing the harness apart again and retesting everything, that I would reconfirm my previous test results by retesting the Solenoid.

Without changing anything, I now am getting 12V on the lead going to the Ignition Switch S (for Starter Solenoid) pin, which I did not see before, which I believe changes everything. I am still NOT getting any voltage on the side of the Solenoid pole/lead going to the actual Starter itself when I turn ignition key from OFF to START position repeatedly. I did this particular test about 20 times to see if any of them registered, and none did. I of course have 12v at the battery side of the Solenoid, so it does now sound to me like the Solenoid is indeed bad.

Question: it was originally suggested by BlazNT earlier (top of Page-2 I believe) that I create a new wire run on that unused pole and wire it to Ground. If I made sure the Solenoid frame itself is cleaned (wire brush) & grounded to a bare metal portion of the mower frame, along with battery ground strap as well, and if the unused pole remains unwired, could that possibly account for the failure? I'm happy to run it as suggested regardless, but just didn't know if that could possibly account for the test fail, or possibly change the outcome of the test if I ran it...

-David

Click to expand...

Sit down and have a think.
The solenoid works when you put 12 V on the terminal manually
SO what can be wrong with the solenoid ?
The trouble it is not getting 12 V
Without the 12 V and a good ground it can not work.

THE WIRE DOES NOT GO DIRECTLY FROM THE S TERMINAL TO THE SOLENOID

As previously mentioned back in post # 31 power goes through the PTO switch and through the parking brake switch then to the solenoid
And on your model it might also have a neutral switch as well.

AS you had some problems with the brake switch ( got off the mower and the starter spun ) I would put a short in the parking brake switch fairly high on the prime suspects list.

HOPING to NOT add confusion, ... check these out.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvW7VbsleZ0 ....Taryl IS a COMEDIAN, but he knows his stuff !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi3p465MN1E

Good afternoon All,

I'll need to track down some thicker gauge wire to create that ground strap for that 4th pole on the Solenoid, I'll try to get that handled this weekend.

Based on what I've been able to read-up on PTO (Power Take Off), it's normally a gear or rotor that transfers power from the engine to an attachment, and while I can picture that on any other tractor, I can't think of where such a thing is on my tractor, other than the mower deck, and that is pulley/belt driven, and activated/deactivated by a physical lever, so now I'm even more confused about the PTO being an actual switch.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what is a PTO SWITCH, and where would it come into play in my equation?

-David

DAMatson said:

Good afternoon All,

I'll need to track down some thicker gauge wire to create that ground strap for that 4th pole on the Solenoid, I'll try to get that handled this weekend.

Based on what I've been able to read-up on PTO (Power Take Off), it's normally a gear or rotor that transfers power from the engine to an attachment, and while I can picture that on any other tractor, I can't think of where such a thing is on my tractor, other than the mower deck, and that is pulley/belt driven, and activated/deactivated by a physical lever, so now I'm even more confused about the PTO being an actual switch.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what is a PTO SWITCH, and where would it come into play in my equation?

-David

Click to expand...

EASY there Dave, the PTO some are referring to, is an electric type of "clutch" that engages to turn the belt that turns the blades ( similar to the old style A/C clutch on the compressor in older cars) it's mounted on the engine crankshaft pulley, these usually have a switch or knob on the dash, YOU ... have the good ol reliable hand lever which is some times called a PTO lever, instead of the blade engage lever, whichever moniker one prefers.

Also you only need a 14 or 12 guage wire for that "extra" ground from the solenoid .......

DAMatson said:

Good afternoon All,

I'll need to track down some thicker gauge wire to create that ground strap for that 4th pole on the Solenoid, I'll try to get that handled this weekend.

Based on what I've been able to read-up on PTO (Power Take Off), it's normally a gear or rotor that transfers power from the engine to an attachment, and while I can picture that on any other tractor, I can't think of where such a thing is on my tractor, other than the mower deck, and that is pulley/belt driven, and activated/deactivated by a physical lever, so now I'm even more confused about the PTO being an actual switch.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what is a PTO SWITCH, and where would it come into play in my equation?

-David

Click to expand...

Just to confuse and confound people like you the end of the engine that supplies the power to devices is called the PTO
So when a tech talks about PTO we know which end of the crankshaft he is talking about.
This is because ride on lawnmowers originated from real tractors and were made by real tractor companies ( IH owned Cub for example )

On mowers there are two types of switches called PTO switches.
On mowers with manual blade engagement, it is a safety switch activated by the blade engagement lever. As is the case with your mower.
On mowers with electric blade engagement, it is a physical power ( on-off ) switch, with the safety switch tacked on to the end of it.

DAMatson said:

Good afternoon All,

I'll need to track down some thicker gauge wire to create that ground strap for that 4th pole on the Solenoid, I'll try to get that handled this weekend.

Based on what I've been able to read-up on PTO (Power Take Off), it's normally a gear or rotor that transfers power from the engine to an attachment, and while I can picture that on any other tractor, I can't think of where such a thing is on my tractor, other than the mower deck, and that is pulley/belt driven, and activated/deactivated by a physical lever, so now I'm even more confused about the PTO being an actual switch.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what is a PTO SWITCH, and where would it come into play in my equation?

-David

Click to expand...

Dave you only need a piece of 12 or 14 guage wire, for the extra solenoid "ground wire" .. I attached mine to my throttle bracket assy.

Electric PTO normally drives a belt to whatever needs power. Electric PTO is attached to the crankshaft of the engine. PTO looks like this.

Good evening all,



I don't think that there is an Electrical PTO Switch in my case, because I took the earlier advice and followed the orange wire going from the Ignition Switch Starter (S) Pin through the wiring harness (without taking the harness apart btw) and it went directly to the small Solenoid pole (labeled "to Ignition Switch (S) terminal" in my picture). To prove this, I checked for continuity between the Solenoid Pole and the wiring quick-connect clip that plugs all leads into the Ignition Switch, and confirmed good continuity between those two points, so it appears to me that I do not have a connection going from Starter Pin through a Parking Brake and PTO Switch to the Solenoid. Looks like a "straight shot" to me...

If that is the case, I suspect that I didn't have good results on my earlier test because I think my test lead probes didn't have a good connection when I was attempting to measure voltage earlier.

I shall get the 12 or 14 Gauge wire and craft a strap tomorrow after the family Easter Egg hunt. I've already got a good spot on the frame that I've removed the paint to reveal bare metal where I screw in a new bolt. If after installing that strap, the Solenoid still fails to show Voltage on the Starter side Terminal on the existing Solenoid when key moved to "Start" position, then it sounds to me like the Solenoid will have now been confirmed as defective.

I'll then order a replacement automotive starter solenoid, like a Ford replacement as discussed previously.

Thank you all for taking the time to educate me on these finer topics, it is greatly appreciated!

-David

So, after crafting and attaching a new ground strap on the old Solenoid 4th pole, still saw no change, it was still stuck in the "off" position. Got a replacement solenoid and now it appears that all of the starter problems have gone away.

Thank you all for your time and assistance! It has all truly been a great help in troubleshooting these electrical problems!

-David

AND Thank You David, .. for the "SOLVED" reply, it may help others that view this thread.

Boobala said:

Dave you only need a piece of 12 or 14 guage wire, for the extra solenoid "ground wire" .. I attached mine to my throttle bracket assy.

View attachment 36650

Click to expand...

That is one good looking crimp job Boo.:thumbsup:

BlazNT said:

That is one good looking crimp job Boo.:thumbsup:

Click to expand...

ARE YOU be makin laughs of my lektrik work ..?? ..:laughing:..:laughing:

Boobala said:

ARE YOU be makin laughs of my lektrik work ..?? ..:laughing:..:laughing:

Click to expand...

No not at all. I think it has just the right amount of wires sticking out. It makes it peerty.:laughing::laughing:

BlazNT said:

No not at all. I think it has just the right amount of wires sticking out. It makes it peerty.:laughing::laughing:

Click to expand...

OHHhhh ..... OKEE DOKEEY, then I'm be thankin ya fo duh kind insult. .. :laughing:..:laughing: