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Been reading about zero turns for a few weeks and did not want to get the very cheap big box brands in the 2-3 k price ranges.

I found someone that was only 10 minutes from my house, that bought this diamndback new, last year - its a 2022 model with only 18 hours on it. He moved to a new home and now only has a small yard and cant use this worldlawn anymore. I called 3 dealers in my area and they said that these sell for around $5900 out the door right now. I got this 2022 model for $4250.

It has the kawasaki engine, which I was told was very important, because some model years had a different engine and had issues. I weigh 240 lbs and stood on the deck and the deck did not have any bend/ give at all. The deck is very heavy duty built. It has the servicable hydro drive units that are of solid quality , dual gas tanks , 1 on the left side and 1 on the right side for weight balance . I checked the pulleys and they seemed very heavy duty . I am aware that some of the metal/ frame is built overseas but those items seem much better built then usual residential grade stuff.

I also like the manual foot operation to raise and lower the deck along with the pin adjustment on the console to adjust deck heights in 1/2 inch increments. The gas gauge is an easy to see, window float style. I like this type of stuff because its simple and easy to use.

I was told to use 20-50 weight kawasaki oil that has the zinc additive in both the engine and the 2 hydro drives , but im not sure if that is to be used just for initial break in or to use that oil permanently.

Mower seems to run strong , is fast and it has 4 heavy duty springs under the seat for comfort.

Hopefully I can get at least 10 years of use out of it for my 3 acres of land, without any catastrophic issues/ breakdowns.

Heres some photos .

Sorry to rain on your parade but unless World Lawn has done a lot of work on their quality in the past few years I will never touch one again .
Finally in frustration I told the two customers who owned them I will no longer service them as in my opinion the mower was not only poorly made but also dangerous to use.
The blades appear to be plain high carbon steel & regularly fractured in a brittle mode so go flying out the side of the mower.
All of the spindle pulleys detached from their bosses and many of the welds cracked
The welding that you can see from the top is beautiful
The welds that I saw underneath are all very sub standard
Finally the total lack of any unique parts made them more trouble than they were worth
And their line of pretend Honda walk behinds are even worse .
We call them "mudguards ( fenders to some )" pretty on the top-shit underneath
They remind me of the junk we get when some one takes a quality product to a third world country and request them to "make one that looks exactly like this as cheap as possible".
I did the inital services on both of them
All of the filters were not genuine Kawakasi but bad factory seconds from one of the Chinese knock off companies which made me doubt if the engine was in fact genuine and not a counterfeit
I tried to check with my Kawakasi distributor and the reply "we can not verify imported engines " was not very encouraging .
By the time I dumped them both of the hydros were leaking on one and the top seal was leaking on another
FWIW they were a Cobra & a Viper and both were on large ex-pasture properties of 10 & 30 acres
If you do a search on the web about World Lawn on mower forums and consummer complaint forums you will see they had a very bad reputation
Cheap in every sense of the word and in my opinion deliberatley deceptive as well so the really stingly cheap skates rave about how much they saved comparred to quality mowers like JD & Toro .
There is a reason why they named the models after snakes because they are Snake Oil
Your money would have been far better spent on repairing that JD F525 in the background .
When I went to the importer to get a full set of spindle bearings, firstly he did not have a full set and secondly he said "the bearings are junk and you have to pull the seals wash the bearings & put better grease in there "

bertsmobile1 said:

Sorry to rain on your parade but unless World Lawn has done a lot of work on their quality in the past few years I will never touch one again .
Finally in frustration I told the two customers who owned them I will no longer service them as in my opinion the mower was not only poorly made but also dangerous to use.
The blades appear to be plain high carbon steel & regularly fractured in a brittle mode so go flying out the side of the mower.
All of the spindle pulleys detached from their bosses and many of the welds cracked
The welding that you can see from the top is beautiful
The welds that I saw underneath are all very sub standard
Finally the total lack of any unique parts made them more trouble than they were worth
And their line of pretend Honda walk behinds are even worse .
We call them "mudguards ( fenders to some )" pretty on the top-shit underneath
They remind me of the junk we get when some one takes a quality product to a third world country and request them to make "one that looks exactly like this as cheap as possible.
I did the inital services on both of them
All of the filters were not genuine Kawakasi but bad factory seconds from one of the Chinese knock off companies which made be doubt if the engine was in fact genuine and not a counterfeit
By the time I dumped them both of the hydros were leaking on one and the top seal was leaking on another
FWIW they were a Cobra & a Viper and both were on large ex-pasture properties of 10 & 30 acres
If you do a search on the web about World Lawn on mower forums and consummer complaint forums you will see they had a very bad reputation
Cheap in every sense of the word and in my opinion deliberatley deceptive as well .

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I did some searching online and did not find much about them on the lawnmower discussion forums. In fact, much of the few conversations about this brand, often ended up being about how unpatriotic it was to purchase them due to them having parts made in china.

I will only be using it for my 3 acres which is relatively flat land and absent of rocks, thick twigs, etc so hopefully this diamondback will holdup fairly well. I did not inspect the welds underneath the deck, but the thickness of the deck itself was impressive...certainly much better than local bigbox store mowers. I did realize that purchasing this was a bit of a gamble, beings they do not seem to be a big seller, but they have been around for many years now and the engine, hydro drive pumps are supposed to be solid quality and the pulleys looked to be well made. If it turns out to be a total piece of crap, I will definitely make a thread about it. Maybe the company has greatly improved the quality over the last 2-3 years ? Time will tell.

I noticed you mention the blades being brittle and flying apart. I did inspect the blades on this ,and they sure seemed to be heavy duty , but then again, that doesnt mean they wont be brittle but they were surely made of thick- heavy steel. I would think, if this brand had alot of issue with the blades flying apart, that woulda been a huge liability concern and they woulda been sued or at least, fixed the issue very quickly. Its one thing to make a mower that is unreliable due to poor manufacture of the engine , but that doesnt often result in a personal injury issue. Your experience about the blades flying apart would be a very risky and dangerous fault that could easily cost a company 10s of millions of dollars in lawsuits.

bertsmobile1 said:

Sorry to rain on your parade but unless World Lawn has done a lot of work on their quality in the past few years I will never touch one again .
Finally in frustration I told the two customers who owned them I will no longer service them as in my opinion the mower was not only poorly made but also dangerous to use.
The blades appear to be plain high carbon steel & regularly fractured in a brittle mode so go flying out the side of the mower.
All of the spindle pulleys detached from their bosses and many of the welds cracked
The welding that you can see from the top is beautiful
The welds that I saw underneath are all very sub standard
Finally the total lack of any unique parts made them more trouble than they were worth
And their line of pretend Honda walk behinds are even worse .
We call them "mudguards ( fenders to some )" pretty on the top-shit underneath
They remind me of the junk we get when some one takes a quality product to a third world country and request them to "make one that looks exactly like this as cheap as possible".
I did the inital services on both of them
All of the filters were not genuine Kawakasi but bad factory seconds from one of the Chinese knock off companies which made me doubt if the engine was in fact genuine and not a counterfeit
I tried to check with my Kawakasi distributor and the reply "we can not verify imported engines " was not very encouraging .
By the time I dumped them both of the hydros were leaking on one and the top seal was leaking on another
FWIW they were a Cobra & a Viper and both were on large ex-pasture properties of 10 & 30 acres
If you do a search on the web about World Lawn on mower forums and consummer complaint forums you will see they had a very bad reputation
Cheap in every sense of the word and in my opinion deliberatley deceptive as well so the really stingly cheap skates rave about how much they saved comparred to quality mowers like JD & Toro .
There is a reason why they named the models after snakes because they are Snake Oil
Your money would have been far better spent on repairing that JD F525 in the background .
When I went to the importer to get a full set of spindle bearings, firstly he did not have a full set and secondly he said "the bearings are junk and you have to pull the seals wash the bearings & put better grease in there "

Click to expand...

The F525 I own runs and mows perfectly. It has about 780 hours on it. The 1 real negative of it, is it is quite slow...top forward speed around 4-5 mph. That also has a Kawasaki engine on it, but it is a 1 cylinder, which is often frowned upon by mower/ engine mechanics for these heavy mowers.

Hopefully the worldlawn company has improved their brand in the last few years. I will say this, I think the brand name is bloody awful and forgetful....WORLDLAWN....horrible product name IMHO.

The company claims they have " triple layer spindle support" on this diamondback mower, which I assume means that the area where the spindle bolts to the deck, is reinforced with thicker steel/layers. I would imagine that is a nice feature also ? If I get a chance this week, I will inspect the uinderneath of the deck welds, to see if they look shabby. ..but as you mentioned, the top of the deck looks fabulous and very stout.

heres a screenshot of the specs of this specific model.

7 gauge steel deck, is also impressive, IMHO...and with a dry weight of 950 lbs, I would imagine its much more heavy duty then the average $3000 mower at lowes/ home depot ? It would seem difficult to get a dry weigh of almost 1000 lbs, if the mower used mostly plastic and thin gauge cheap steel or pot metal ? I will use the mower the rest of the summer and give updates if problems arise....I guess I kinda elected myself to be a guinea pig for this mower but I would not have gave $4250 for it, unless my initial inspection was positive.

I have all of the specs here
The history goes like this
The original factory , Encore was run so badly it went broke
So a bunch of the managers hot footed it to China with a brief case of design drawings in the hope of resurecting it using a knock down Chinese mower that was reassembled in the USA so could be sold as "made in the USA"
And this is exactly what happened , the old factory site had not been sold so they leased it but because they did not have the money to buy the old brand names from the liquidators they used World Lawn which is part of the name of the manufacturing company in China ,(Jiangsu World Plant-Protecting Machinery Co., Ltd ) which in itself is part of the massive "World" group which was owned by the " people " which is cover for the Chinese Communist Party
Because they were not good managers, and the product was trash it flopped big time so the Chinese company took control , relaunched the Encore brand .
The truth of what exactly happened will eventually come out but the history seems to change every few days
Encore say they never stopped manufacture so they can claim a long heritage ( since 1988 ) but their distribution network down here closed in 2011 and did not reappear till 2019 so from 2011 to 2019 we had stand alone World Lawn mowers down here and rebadged World Lawns locally branded . In 2019 there was a promo that Encore brand was going to relaunch in Australia but to date no dealers have been announced .
One of my wholesalers sells rebadged Encores under their Bushranger brand but that is the only presence I am aware of.
Now the local US dealers will have a better understanding than I do from Australia

As for the materials
you can get strong parts by using high quality alloy steel and make them thin or use low grade low strength steel & make them thicker
Think of the difference between High Speed Tool Steel tap & dies which are expensive , last forever & are resistant to fracture compared to high carbon steel ones that are 1/3 the price, go blunt quickly and break easily .
So that is the difference
People who do not understand materials technology associate thickness with quality because they are used to things getting thinner & cheaper till they fall apart the day you unwrap them
But when it come to things like flat plate thicker is always cheaper stock that welds poorly fatigues quickly but does not wear out your tooling because it is soft & weak so to get the same strength you need to increase the section thickness which makes using thick low grade plate a lot lot cheaper , particularly if it is

Down here 2 local brands, Parklander & Rover both sold rebadged World Lawn ZTR's and both dropped them in a couple of years and went to MTD .
That speaks a lot about the quality & durability of the World Lawn products .
Wholesale prices of the World Lawn were in fact cheaper than the wholesale prices of MTD which are the cheapest USA product by a long way in every sense of the word .

Now that the company is bereft of the original managers who may have been milking it for all that they could the quality may have increased

bertsmobile1 said:

I have all of the specs here
The history goes like this
The original factory , Encore was run so badly it went broke
So a bunch of the managers hot footed it to China with a brief case of design drawings in the hope of resurecting it using a knock down Chinese mower that was reassembled in the USA so could be sold as "made in the USA"
And this is exactly what happened , the old factory site had not been sold so they leased it but because they did not have the money to buy the old brand names from the liquidators they used World Lawn which is part of the name of the manufacturing company in China ,(Jiangsu World Plant-Protecting Machinery Co., Ltd ) which in itself is part of the massive "World" group which was owned by the " people " which is cover for the Chinese Communist Party
Because they were not good managers, and the product was trash it flopped big time so the Chinese company took control , relaunched the Encore brand .
The truth of what exactly happened will eventually come out but the history seems to change every few days
Encore say they never stopped manufacture so they can claim a long heritage ( since 1988 ) but their distribution network down here closed in 2011 and did not reappear till 2019 so from 2011 to 2019 we had stand alone World Lawn mowers down here and rebadged World Lawns locally branded . In 2019 there was a promo that Encore brand was going to relaunch in Australia but to date no dealers have been announced .
One of my wholesalers sells rebadged Encores under their Bushranger brand but that is the only presence I am aware of.
Now the local US dealers will have a better understanding than I do from Australia

As for the materials
you can get strong parts by using high quality alloy steel and make them thin or use low grade low strength steel & make them thicker
Think of the difference between High Speed Tool Steel tap & dies which are expensive , last forever & are resistant to fracture compared to high carbon steel ones that are 1/3 the price, go blunt quickly and break easily .
So that is the difference
People who do not understand materials technology associate thickness with quality because they are used to things getting thinner & cheaper till they fall apart the day you unwrap them
But when it come to things like flat plate thicker is always cheaper stock that welds poorly fatigues quickly but does not wear out your tooling because it is soft & weak so to get the same strength you need to increase the section thickness which makes using thick low grade plate a lot lot cheaper , particularly if it is

Down here 2 local brands, Parklander & Rover both sold rebadged World Lawn ZTR's and both dropped them in a couple of years and went to MTD .
That speaks a lot about the quality & durability of the World Lawn products .
Wholesale prices of the World Lawn were in fact cheaper than the wholesale prices of MTD which are the cheapest USA product by a long way in every sense of the word .

Now that the company is bereft of the original managers who may have been milking it for all that they could the quality may have increased

Click to expand...

That is a FR series Kawasaki engine, which is their residential version, good engine. World Lawn has very sporadic and sparse dealer support, parts availability can be difficult in some cases, cheaper overall quality, and many shops will NOT work on them. In a stock market sense, it is a no buy.

I appreciate the history on the company. I admit I took a calculated gamble . I called several local service centers for this brand...I think there were 4 places....1 of the places told me they quit servicing this companys mowers , mainly because they had too many issues with the motor which was not the kawasaki engines. I told that servcie center that the 2022 I was purchasing had the Kawasaki engine, which he replied " you should be fine then " The other 3 service centers, which are all within 1 hour of my house, told me they still sell these mowers, and service them and they can get the parts when needed. They also told me that they have not seen many issues / returns ...but 1 service center did tell me they had a mower brought back because it was constantly throwing off the deck belt , so they had to take all the pulleys off the deck and install new ones.

I had 2 main choices...I was gonna purchase a used TORO TITAN MAX 60 inch cut for $2800 that had 325 hours and was a 2012 model or take a chance on this Worldlawn 2022 mower that was practically brand new with 18 hours for $4250 and supposedly used many commerical parts.

Only time will tell when it comes to the longevity of my Worldlawn mower. Since im using it in a residential setting , maybe I will get lucky and not have any major issues and get 10 + years of good service from it. If and when it has its 1st significant breakdown/ issue, I will definitely post about it.

One thing is certain, the mower has very thick metal on the build/ deck/ pulleys, etc....but I agree that it could be thick, weak, cheap metal. I wont be mowing over rocks, sticks , etc so maybe it will hold up better then a situation where it is being used commercially everyday in less then ideal mowing situations.

Im gonna try and take a look under the deck and see what the welds look like.

With the possible negatives , does it not seem that the 23 hp Kawasaki engine and the servicable hydro drives on this Diamondback mower , are solid components used in many commercial mowers that sell for much higher price points ?

I find it hard to believe, that this Worldlawn is not of significant better quality then the myriad of zero turns sold at the big box stores in the $2000 -$4000 price ranges. I do admit, that it is usually not a great sign, that this specific brand still seems to be a relatively unknown brand by most people nor does it seem that many people own this brand ..

My initial amateur inspection of the mower , impressed me along with knowing it is basically a new mower that sells for around $5900 out the door and I got it for $4250, but I am in no way a top notch mechanic nor am I deeply educated in zero turn mowers so its possible I may regret this purchase once the mower has seen some significant use.

Any opinions on the 20-50 w kawasaki oil that has the zinc additive ? Is it worth the extra money to use it for every oil change or only use it for initial break in period, or dont use it at all ?

I just took some photos of the welds underneath the deck and I fully agree those welds do not look as good/ proffesional as the welds on top of the deck. I have to wonder if the welds under the deck are done by a human because the weld beads are sometimes so irregular and the welds on top of the deck are done by a machine because they look so clean/strong and proffesional ?

I doubt this will be of any real negative impact for my residential mowing needs, and I wonder if the proffesional weld beads on the top of the deck are strong enough to support some of the amateurish looking welds underneath . The blotchy small weld bead in the 3rd photo is the worst one I saw under the deck. I will keep an eye on the deck and if I notice any breaks/fractures I can always reweld it myself, but this should not be something the consumer should have to do/ worry about IMHO. Heres some photos.

In the 6th photo, you can also see where the spindles mount, it is heavily reinforced with thicker/ extra steel on the bottom and I assume it is reinforced like this on the top because the company calls this " triple reifnorced area" .

No other mower maker puts in brace plates there .
The important thing is you are now in an eyes wide open state so you know to check it carefully and often
Down here the Stihl national franchise used to carry them nation wide but they dropped them after a couple of years
AFAIK there are no Australian distributors for them at the moment but I do not go dealer shopping so some of the lesser franchase chains may be carrying them
Then again Australia is a small market , JD & Toro have most of the commercial sector and very few of us see the need for 15 acres of mowed grass as seems to be the want in the USA
So the market for big mowers is very small with 42" being by far the most common deck size .
We have a lot of golf courses ( several companies do golfing tours- holidays for Japanese golfers ) down here and used fairway mowers seem to fill the broad acre home owner market .

bertsmobile1 said:

No other mower maker puts in brace plates there .
The important thing is you are now in an eyes wide open state so you know to check it carefully and often
Down here the Stihl national franchise used to carry them nation wide but they dropped them after a couple of years
AFAIK there are no Australian distributors for them at the moment but I do not go dealer shopping so some of the lesser franchase chains may be carrying them
Then again Australia is a small market , JD & Toro have most of the commercial sector and very few of us see the need for 15 acres of mowed grass as seems to be the want in the USA
So the market for big mowers is very small with 42" being by far the most common deck size .
We have a lot of golf courses ( several companies do golfing tours- holidays for Japanese golfers ) down here and used fairway mowers seem to fill the broad acre home owner market .

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Do the welds under my deck , seem to be on par with the welds you had seen or does it look like my welds are a improvement over the welds you had seen a few years ago ?

NavyNancy said:

Do the welds under my deck , seem to be on par with the welds you had seen or does it look like my welds are a improvement over the welds you had seen a few years ago ?

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Seem on par
Always a worry when you see pristine welds on the top and total crap underneath
It makes you wonder what else was done for show
Keep us in mind
All of the pulleys on both mowers detached
The replacements were rubbish so I did proper welds on them and when doing this one warped so I rewelded he best of the broken ones .
Like I said, I got sick of repairing them particularly with the customers in my ear crowing about how much money they saved so eventually just told them NO.
I would really like you to have a good run with yours but even if you do please come back and add to this thread at least each season
Finding honest appraisals of any mower is hard and even more so for Lawn World and I for one will be interested in your experiances .

I can assure you that if and when I catastrophic unexpected issue arises, I will mention it on this thread because I also feel it would be nice to have more info/ honest user reviews on this particular brand.

NavyNancy said:

Heres some photos .

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For the money you’re talking about spending you should be able to get a pretty decent mower

Some people aren't here are just like me, they have a whole lot to say..
Unfortunately, and sometimes fortunately, most of it is true though.
One thing about the Chinese stuff, I know people love to bash cheap Chinese parts and engines etc but it's not that they can't make good quality stuff it's basically that no one ever asks them to!
These companies, and the bean counters are trying to save money or maximize profit so they have a design or a plan or they want something whatever and they throw it out there to see who the lowest bidder is and guess who almost always comes in as the lowest bidder? Somebody in china. That's going to change pretty soon I think as there's already some things coming in from India..
This is what happened with Mexico a couple of decades ago.

Back to your new mower though, congratulations. It's always awesome to get a nice new piece of equipment like that. I'm sure you will do fine over the next 10 years with this but you'll probably have a needed repair here or there but I don't really think that's any different any piece of equipment you would buy.

It all kinds of depends on how, and how much you use it.

Like spindles in a mower. Most people will hit something and damage a spindle far before they will actually wear one out even when they are permanently sealed ones with no grease fittings.
Now, a lot of times people do hit things and damage or shorten the life of the spindle and the bearings it just doesn't happen right after they hit something so they don't really realize that that harsh use or even what would be considered abuse even though accidental is what caused it.

It's not really that it wore out in 4 years but rather it was beat up pretty hard multiple times and that took its longer lifespan down to 3 to 4 years.

Personally, I think everybody should learn to work on things like this if they're going to own them.
If you're going to pay somebody every time something breaks then why not just take out the middleman and just pay someone to cut your lawn!

It's super expensive to take you more or have it picked up and go to a shop every time and they often do more than you really have to do at that period of time.
Like when you have one spindle which is often the left side one that you trim around things go bad and they will recommend replacing all three or two if it's a smaller one, when you could get years out of the other ones. I just do the one that needs to be done.
Also, for so many mowers you can buy a complete spindle assembly for under 15 or 20 bucks shipped to your door but when you take it to a shop they're not buying those and they're paying much bigger money for them so you will be paying 70- $100 plus for each one.
This is not a case where the shop is actually ripping you off. It's simply that they are getting ripped off too because they are not sourcing better prices for the supplies.

And I don't want to hear anything about the quality of these eBay and Amazon spindles etc because they seem to be no worse than the quality of an MTD let's say that you buy from a dealer or from Lowe's or Home Depot.
All of that is residential lower grade stuff and it's all made in China or at least all has Chinese bearings in it and none of them are anything better than slightly beyond mediocre.

20w50 is a common oil for hydros as is the 15w50 full synthetic Mobil 1 which I believe is the same stuff or at least recommended for a lot of the exmark hydros or maybe the same as their own exmark hydro fluid.
While in warm conditions 20w50 should be fine and the Kawasaki owners manual probably says it's okay just like the old Japanese motorcycles even the high performance ones up throughout the mid-90s that were very high in sport bikes could be run on anything from straight 30 straight 40, 10w30, 10w40, 15 w 40, 20 w 50 and a couple of other ones you only find in Europe.
So in reality they're pretty forgiving and it's usually better to air on the side of thick versus thin.
I don't really see a need for 20w50 though even though I used to use it in all my race car engines and my street strip play cars I used to build.
I don't like 10w40 though as even in the day it just had too much of a spread and it doesn't age well or last long and since it's not popular they don't really put any effort into making good quality refined versions of it today and I'm not a fan of multigrades on lawn mowers because you just don't need it at least not for my use.
I like a plain old SAE 30 weight or an HD 30. I can't really make any proven or long tested decisions on whether a diesel 30 could possibly better than an HD or standard automotive 30 but in reality I don't think there's going to be any difference.
I also think 15W40 is great oil for small engines and that's mostly diesel oil.
I've also used straight 40 in lots of my engines specifically Valvoline VR1 racing oil which has a very high zinc content so I've used that in 30 and 40 weights and even 50 and the 20w50 when I have something that's old and using oil or need some extra thickness or compression because that's about the only brand I can easily find a straight 50 and I think they even have a straight 60 available.
It's easier than gooping it up with 5 or 6 oz of blue STP. Lol

Overall though I would recommend to read your manual on the engine and hopefully it tells you they recommend an oil change in the first let's say 2 to 10 hours. I know that's becoming a thing in the past but I really think you should always get that initial oil out after a short period of time because only when an engine is new will you ever see, or should you ever see, that gray metallic Sheen to the oil because all the medical particles inside from it polishing everything in.

I don't like leaving that in there.
So sometime in the first five or six hours I like to do an oil and filter change..

I don't use OEM filters for anything!
Let's be honest, they are lawn mowers... Low performance little turds in reality.
That also makes most of them very forgiving.
Just remember I don't believe you'll find one single mower manufacturer that makes their own oil filters.
Now I wouldn't put an orange fram on a lawn mower or a bicycle if they had oil filters for their chain. Lol..
And I don't think you can do any better than wix and all these arguments about bypass and micron ratings are pretty moot at least in my opinion.
Remember these engines lasted for decades without ever having an oil filter.
So if I really like a piece of equipment I'll go with wix. Otherwise, I will go with the house brand from O'Reilly Auto Parts which I believe has changed manufacturers in the past 8 or 10 years at least once but the quality seems good and consistent and with my commercial account there I get them for about $2.49 to $3.29 so it's hard to beat the price.
I guess I could buy bulk online but I don't think I could get any brand whatsoever other than generic fleet ones approaching that price.

I'm also not really a fan of full synthetic oil in lawn mower engines because I just really don't think they need it or benefit from it that much and it can tend to leak and disappear a little faster but regardless keep an eye on your oil all the time..

The best practice is to never start or crank an engine until you check the oil level. Not just because it could be low but sometimes it could be high. You wouldn't believe how many older ones have a leaky needle and seat and have what's called fuel migration or case old dilution and end up a quart to a half gallon of gas in the oil.
This makes it thin and runny to where it doesn't protect worth of crap and raises your level on the dipstick and inch or so above the full Mark so you have to carefully look at it and make sure it's not high because it's harder to see and smell it to make sure it doesn't smell like gas.

Use a leaf blower or a blowgun with an air compressor to blow all the grass and stuff and keep the hydros clean so they will cool properly and keep the crap off the top of the deck and blow around and under the shroud and heads on the engine to keep that stuff out of there and every so many hours or every so many years whatever you deem appropriate, take the shroud off the engine and make sure there is no build up on either one of the head cooling fans because this causes a lot of damage especially slip valve guides and popped valve seats which can be so bad, just like I had one happen two years ago on a Kawasaki where the head was wiped out and couldn't even be fixed without a new head.

Had the machine have been properly serviced and all the greasy grime from 8 to 10 years and the 1400 hours on the machine, this would have been caught and he would have never slipped a valve guide.

Where are you located? 20w50 seems kind of heavy for the engine oil...

Can anyone identify what these 2 pieces are and where they go ? I found them laying on the top of my worldlawn mower deck. They are about 1.5 inchs in length and 1 of them is threaded ...it looks as though the 2 pieces would bolt together { 1 bolt on each end } around something.

NavyNancy said:

Can anyone identify what these 2 pieces are and where they go ? I found them laying on the top of my worldlawn mower deck. They are about 1.5 inchs in length and 1 of them is threaded ...it looks as though the 2 pieces would bolt together { 1 bolt on each end } around something.

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I read thru the entire thread and hope the mower works out for you.

What tends to happen with the off brand stuff is when you need parts 5+ years in the future they will not be available or extremely hard to find. So the mower you saved thousands of dollars on with the purchase price is no longer useable. When this happens is when you realize the savings disappeared.

You mentioned “commercial parts” a couple times in your posts. Go look at a real commercial ZT mower and then look at the World mower. “Commercial” has become a marketing buzzword to lure people in and has lost its true meaning. Trust me that mower would have an extremely short life if it were used commercially.

I still believe in the old adage “you get what you pay for”…….not always, but if you do your homework you will. There is a big difference when designing and manufacturing a product to be reliable and durable vs low cost. If you do your homework you can clearly see the difference.

bertsmobile1 said:

Sorry to rain on your parade but unless World Lawn has done a lot of work on their quality in the past few years I will never touch one again .
Finally in frustration I told the two customers who owned them I will no longer service them as in my opinion the mower was not only poorly made but also dangerous to use.
The blades appear to be plain high carbon steel & regularly fractured in a brittle mode so go flying out the side of the mower.
All of the spindle pulleys detached from their bosses and many of the welds cracked
The welding that you can see from the top is beautiful
The welds that I saw underneath are all very sub standard
Finally the total lack of any unique parts made them more trouble than they were worth
And their line of pretend Honda walk behinds are even worse .
We call them "mudguards ( fenders to some )" pretty on the top-shit underneath
They remind me of the junk we get when some one takes a quality product to a third world country and request them to "make one that looks exactly like this as cheap as possible".
I did the inital services on both of them
All of the filters were not genuine Kawakasi but bad factory seconds from one of the Chinese knock off companies which made me doubt if the engine was in fact genuine and not a counterfeit
I tried to check with my Kawakasi distributor and the reply "we can not verify imported engines " was not very encouraging .
By the time I dumped them both of the hydros were leaking on one and the top seal was leaking on another
FWIW they were a Cobra & a Viper and both were on large ex-pasture properties of 10 & 30 acres
If you do a search on the web about World Lawn on mower forums and consummer complaint forums you will see they had a very bad reputation
Cheap in every sense of the word and in my opinion deliberatley deceptive as well so the really stingly cheap skates rave about how much they saved comparred to quality mowers like JD & Toro .
There is a reason why they named the models after snakes because they are Snake Oil
Your money would have been far better spent on repairing that JD F525 in the background .
When I went to the importer to get a full set of spindle bearings, firstly he did not have a full set and secondly he said "the bearings are junk and you have to pull the seals wash the bearings & put better grease in there "

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Until reading this post, I have never heard of worldmower. Just hearing the word sounds cheap. I used to work on alot of riders and zero turn mowers. I have a JD 1435 diesel 72 inch deck, 4 wheel drive. It's almost like driving a car. It Appears to be very well made. People get what they pay for. They buy something cheap make and wind up spending more money on it than it's worth. I had an old woods zero turn that I traded in and paid a couple grand to get the JD. The left hydro pump on the woods was going out and I didn't want to mess with it. The JD 1435 is a much better mower.

mcspeed said:

I read thru the entire thread and hope the mower works out for you.

What tends to happen with the off brand stuff is when you need parts 5+ years in the future they will not be available or extremely hard to find. So the mower you saved thousands of dollars on with the purchase price is no longer useable. When this happens is when you realize the savings disappeared.

You mentioned “commercial parts” a couple times in your posts. Go look at a real commercial ZT mower and then look at the World mower. “Commercial” has become a marketing buzzword to lure people in and has lost its true meaning. Trust me that mower would have an extremely short life if it were used commercially.

I still believe in the old adage “you get what you pay for”…….not always, but if you do your homework you will. There is a big difference when designing and manufacturing a product to be reliable and durable vs low cost. If you do your homework you can clearly see the difference.

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Parts availability for some of these cheap made mowers is and can be a problem. Word to the ignorant, when they buy cheap, they think they are saving money but in the long run they will wind up spending more on it than it's worth.

NavyNancy said:

I appreciate the history on the company. I admit I took a calculated gamble . I called several local service centers for this brand...I think there were 4 places....1 of the places told me they quit servicing this companys mowers , mainly because they had too many issues with the motor which was not the kawasaki engines. I told that servcie center that the 2022 I was purchasing had the Kawasaki engine, which he replied " you should be fine then " The other 3 service centers, which are all within 1 hour of my house, told me they still sell these mowers, and service them and they can get the parts when needed. They also told me that they have not seen many issues / returns ...but 1 service center did tell me they had a mower brought back because it was constantly throwing off the deck belt , so they had to take all the pulleys off the deck and install new ones.

I had 2 main choices...I was gonna purchase a used TORO TITAN MAX 60 inch cut for $2800 that had 325 hours and was a 2012 model or take a chance on this Worldlawn 2022 mower that was practically brand new with 18 hours for $4250 and supposedly used many commerical parts.

Only time will tell when it comes to the longevity of my Worldlawn mower. Since im using it in a residential setting , maybe I will get lucky and not have any major issues and get 10 + years of good service from it. If and when it has its 1st significant breakdown/ issue, I will definitely post about it.

One thing is certain, the mower has very thick metal on the build/ deck/ pulleys, etc....but I agree that it could be thick, weak, cheap metal. I wont be mowing over rocks, sticks , etc so maybe it will hold up better then a situation where it is being used commercially everyday in less then ideal mowing situations.

Im gonna try and take a look under the deck and see what the welds look like.

With the possible negatives , does it not seem that the 23 hp Kawasaki engine and the servicable hydro drives on this Diamondback mower , are solid components used in many commercial mowers that sell for much higher price points ?

I find it hard to believe, that this Worldlawn is not of significant better quality then the myriad of zero turns sold at the big box stores in the $2000 -$4000 price ranges. I do admit, that it is usually not a great sign, that this specific brand still seems to be a relatively unknown brand by most people nor does it seem that many people own this brand ..

My initial amateur inspection of the mower , impressed me along with knowing it is basically a new mower that sells for around $5900 out the door and I got it for $4250, but I am in no way a top notch mechanic nor am I deeply educated in zero turn mowers so its possible I may regret this purchase once the mower has seen some significant use.

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This is just my opinion but just hearing the name worldmower sounds cheap. I hope you don't regret buying it when it needs repairs. It's like buying a foreign car, you can buy them cheap but you will pay up for the parts. Good luck.

"You get what you pay for" is one of those blanket statements that I do not agree with. I could mention many items Ive bought { many of which came from overseas} that were very inexpensive compared to name brand- much more expensive items of the same function, and have been very pleased with the inexpensive versions. One great example is a 3 in 1 stick welder/ tig welder/ plasma cutter that I purchased doirect from china, 15 years ago and only paid $489 shipped. It has performed perfectly and compared to US made product, it was $1000 - $2000 less in cost. Of course I do not use it everyday on a pro level, but for my needs its been great.

The 2 piece clamp that was on the deck of my worldlawn, it looks like it is just a clamp that was on the horizontal bar of my parking brake and I assume the 2 bolts that clamp it on that bar, vibrated loose. The factory may not have applied loctite to it.

Of course I am not happy that this small metal clamp vibrated loose, but it only took 1 minuite to put it back on { it took longer to find where it went, on the parts schematic online } .

As I mentioned, I accepted this worldlawn was a gamble....with only 15 hrs on it and a 2022 model , I took the gamble. I think worldlawn use to offer mowers with LOCIN engines ? I was informed they had many issues and to not buy a mower with that engine.

$4250 is what I paid for it, and if I get 10 years out of it, ill be happy...that amounts to $425 per year in mowing { not including gas or replacing a v-belt , etc }. My yard does not have rocks in it so I hope the mower blades last , and hopefully the blades are made of a much better metal than the company was using years ago.

moparjoe said:

This is just my opinion but just hearing the name worldmower sounds cheap. I hope you don't regret buying it when it needs repairs. It's like buying a foreign car, you can buy them cheap but you will pay up for the parts. Good luck.

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I fully agree, the brand name is awful.

I try and look at things from all sides. The kawasaki engine and the hydro pumps would not be considered " cheap , bottom of the barrel components , IMHO....
and those 2 items are the most important/expensive items. The deck is thick 7 gauge metal , but it could be thick cheap metal...time will tell. The seat is comfortable and has several heavy duty springs for smoother ride. Tires look to be of good quality.

I am not here to defend or bash worldlawn....if there is a catastrophic breakdown I will report it. Someone on youtube made a video, and claimed their worldlawn zeroturn had a hydro unit self destruct around 500 hrs....which if true, is not a good sign at all. Then again, maybe they changed the hydro oil and got debris/ dirt in it ? Hard to know.

NavyNancy said:

Can anyone identify what these 2 pieces are and where they go ? I found them laying on the top of my worldlawn mower deck. They are about 1.5 inchs in length and 1 of them is threaded ...it looks as though the 2 pieces would bolt together { 1 bolt on each end } around something.

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moparjoe said:

This is just my opinion but just hearing the name worldmower sounds cheap. I hope you don't regret buying it when it needs repairs. It's like buying a foreign car, you can buy them cheap but you will pay up for the parts. Good luck.

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OP only wanted to know what fell off the mower, not a lecture. I love this site, but it sucks listening to people get berated over simple stuff. Not everyone is a mechanic, and some of the people looking for help here may be the person one of us go to for one of our needs. Just have some compassion for others, guys.

davis2 said:

OP only wanted to know what fell off the mower, not a lecture. I love this site, but it sucks listening to people get berated over simple stuff. Not everyone is a mechanic, and some of the people looking for help here may be the person one of us go to for one of our needs. Just have some compassion for others, guys.

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Cheap is cheap. You get what you pay for.

moparjoe said:

Cheap is cheap. You get what you pay for.

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I dont consider $4250 cheap...LOL....most money Ive ever spent on a riding mower.

moparjoe said:

Cheap is cheap. You get what you pay for.

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That may be true, but why does everyone who asks for help get a lecture if they don't know what info to give, or make some other mistake? Trust me, I've seen some of the idiots who have been annoying, but the OP on this thread doesn't deserve the lecture. Save the meanness for those who earn it like that Tandolfi guy last week.

There is a fine line between being lectured and being informed and this will vary from one person to another
I for one have tried to be informative & not judgemental
he first time I saw one I thought it looked really good , just the same as Navynancy did
Then I got underneath and saw the rest of the mower .
After that it was one nightmare after another to the point that I sent the blades to consummer affairs to try & get them banned
BEcause I am just a nobody they took no notice so I sent the next one to the School of Mechanical engineering to get more weight behind the warning.
I think every one has been civil to date
IT is a personal decision weather anything is good value, after all idiots pay $ 100+ for a pair of running shoes while knowing that the sports shoe company pay $ 5 a pair for them from China and they think if they get them for $ 99 they got a bargan
My hope is Navy Nancy is new well aware of the short comings of this mower so treats it accordingly.
There is nothing so badly made that yo can not get a good service life from it provided you are aware of the short comings and monitor regularly for failures so they can be picked up early before they become a catastrophic failure & potential injury
Hopefully others will read this post and also be aware .
The capitalist demand economy is based on the premise that the consumer is "informed" so they can make an informed decision as the where they spend their money .
It is not my or any one else's job to tell anyone where they have to spend their hard earned , it is their decision & theirs alone .

NavyNancy said:

I dont consider $4250 cheap...LOL....most money Ive ever spent on a riding mower.

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I agree. I suggest not hosing off the mower as a cleaning technique. Water getting in the poorly sealed bearings destroys them pretty quickly. I learned about this on my Kubota ZT. Bought it used for $2,500 with 40 hrs on it 5 yrs ago. Hasn’t been trouble free but parts are available and so fix everything myself. Being a common brand parts like wheel bearings are available in updgades stainless steel with a better seal than the OE ones.

Hope your mower works out for you.

I certainly appreciate everyones help and theres really only 1 thing thats been said in this thread that I disagree with...the blanket statement of " you get what you pay for" . I feel it is a innacurate statement because I have bought high dollar name brand items that underperformed...... and I have bought low priced " no name" items that performed above expectations and gave longterm performance . As far as the price of this lawnworld being considered " cheap" , im not sure thats a accurate claim. Its certainly higher priced than most of the zero turns at the big box stores. If the kawasaki engine and the 2 hydro gear pumps hold up, I should be able to deal with any issues with the deck/ pulleys , especially since I own a welder/ plasma cutter and im not afraid to use it.

I do want to specifcy that this thread is in no way meant to try and convince others to buy the mower I purchased. When I was searching on this forum for info about this specific mower, I noticed there was not much info on it, as far as people who owned them. I elected to be the guinea pig and give honest info for this brand of mower. I already expected I would get a few " bashers" telling me it was a cheap mower....and from a standpoint of the quality of the components, that may turn out ot be true { I wont know until the mower gets much more hours of use} but from the standpoint of what this mower cost new - $5900- I dont view it as a cheaply priced mower , nor do I view my cost of it $4250 being cheap either. With it only having about 15 hrs of use and only being 10 months old , I thought it was worth the risk to purchase it because I was getting a new mower at a $1700 discounted price.

mcspeed said:

I agree. I suggest not hosing off the mower as a cleaning technique. Water getting in the poorly sealed bearings destroys them pretty quickly. I learned about this on my Kubota ZT. Bought it used for $2,500 with 40 hrs on it 5 yrs ago. Hasn’t been trouble free but parts are available and so fix everything myself. Being a common brand parts like wheel bearings are available in updgades stainless steel with a better seal than the OE ones.

Hope your mower works out for you.

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Funny story...yesterday my neighbor was mowing his yard with his $6000 kubota zero turn and his deck belt broke. He came over to my house and asked me if he could finish his 2 acre yard with my mower and of course I said , yes.

I never use a hose on my mower....I always blow it off with a blower. He hosed the whole lawnmower down after he used it and brought it back over to me. I told him that if he ever has to use my mower again, to never hose it off with water.

I never even liked the push mowers that have the hose attachment to connect ahose to wash the underside of the decks.

NavyNancy said:

Funny story...yesterday my neighbor was mowing his yard with his $6000 kubota zero turn and his deck belt broke. He came over to my house and asked me if he could finish his 2 acre yard with my mower and of course I said , yes.

I never use a hose on my mower....I always blow it off with a blower. He hosed the whole lawnmower down after he used it and brought it back over to me. I told him that if he ever has to use my mower again, to never hose it off with water.

I never even liked the push mowers that have the hose attachment to connect ahose to wash the underside of the decks.

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Depending on the model Kubota, they had a recall on the belt tensioner. Mine ate a belt so that’s how I learned about the fix.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but when 3 or 4 people give someone crap, it begins to seem like a lecture. It seems to happen to quite a few newbies. I'm not pointing at anyone in particular, just don't add another long post putting them down because they bought something you may not approve of.

I post on many different boards, and this kind of thing turns it into an echo chamber. Now I think the regulars here are very good mechanics and people. But if someone annoys you with their lack of knowledge, ignore the thread. I want to see this site continue...

NavyNancy said:

Any opinions on the 20-50 w kawasaki oil that has the zinc additive ? Is it worth the extra money to use it for every oil change or only use it for initial break in period, or dont use it at all ?

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It's recommended for all oil changes. If you look around there are other oils containing zinc that are designed for use in motorcycles which should work as good as the Kawasaki branded oil so long as they have similar zinc content. Depending on how much dust you kick up you might consider getting a Donaldson style 2 stage air filter, there's a number of places on the internet where you can get one. These are typically found on the commercial Kawasaki twins and can be easily adapted to work on residential mowers. They provide a significant improvement in air filtration and due to the size they aren't restrictive to the point that you'd need to re-tune the engine. I put one on my Big Box store Cub Cadet XT1 50 which has a 23 HP Kawasaki FR691 because of all the dust that gets kicked up here in Oklahoma. It's about 4 years old now with no issues mowing an acre about every 4-7 days with normal maintenance. Pulled and checked spindles recently, still plenty of grease in the sealed bearings, no zerks. The spindles are MTD with chinesium bearings. Will replace them with Timkens if they ever go bad.

NavyNancy said:

Can anyone identify what these 2 pieces are and where they go ? I found them laying on the top of my worldlawn mower deck. They are about 1.5 inchs in length and 1 of them is threaded ...it looks as though the 2 pieces would bolt together { 1 bolt on each end } around something.

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Looks like the clamp collar for the brake from 48-52-60-DIAMONDBACK-PARTS-MANUAL-REV-DATE-201909.pdf page 29, item number 25. You can search and download the file.

OkieVet said:

Looks like the clamp collar for the brake from 48-52-60-DIAMONDBACK-PARTS-MANUAL-REV-DATE-201909.pdf page 29, item number 25. You can search and download the file.

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Ty...I put it back on the horizontal parking brake bar. I actually did not see why it was even needed to be there in the 1st place.

The mower cuts so fast, that I wont be able to put alot of hours on it just mowing my 2-3 acres of land over the next 2-3 months. It only has about 15 hours on it now. If anything substantial were to break on it within the next 100 hours or so of use { probably next 2-3 years of use } I will be a bit surprised, but I will post about it on this thread .

OkieVet said:

It's recommended for all oil changes. If you look around there are other oils containing zinc that are designed for use in motorcycles which should work as good as the Kawasaki branded oil so long as they have similar zinc content. Depending on how much dust you kick up you might consider getting a Donaldson style 2 stage air filter, there's a number of places on the internet where you can get one. These are typically found on the commercial Kawasaki twins and can be easily adapted to work on residential mowers. They provide a significant improvement in air filtration and due to the size they aren't restrictive to the point that you'd need to re-tune the engine. I put one on my Big Box store Cub Cadet XT1 50 which has a 23 HP Kawasaki FR691 because of all the dust that gets kicked up here in Oklahoma. It's about 4 years old now with no issues mowing an acre about every 4-7 days with normal maintenance. Pulled and checked spindles recently, still plenty of grease in the sealed bearings, no zerks. The spindles are MTD with chinesium bearings. Will replace them with Timkens if they ever go bad.

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Are there other recommendations for cooler climates? Seems a bit heavy for a lawn mower.

Zinc content is irrelevent for mower engines unless your engine is doing 8000+ rpm and you have fitted high strength valve springs.
What is good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander
Almost any oil will be fine for a mower engine particularly when it gets replaced annually at the end of each season ( not the beginning of the new one )
Mower oils are the best but not if left in there for too long .
Air cooled engine oils are the second best
The diesel oils
then car oils
But any of them are better than not enough oil or dirty oil
I always find it amusing that people will argue so passionately about things they have little real understanding of .
Oil
Oil filters
Fuel Stabilizers
Climate change
conservation
election results
And with this pear I am out of this thread
Hope NavyNancy does well with his mower

bertsmobile1 said:

Zinc content is irrelevent for mower engines unless your engine is doing 8000+ rpm and you have fitted high strength valve springs.
What is good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander
Almost any oil will be fine for a mower engine particularly when it gets replaced annually at the end of each season ( not the beginning of the new one )
Mower oils are the best but not if left in there for too long .
Air cooled engine oils are the second best
The diesel oils
then car oils
But any of them are better than not enough oil or dirty oil
I always find it amusing that people will argue so passionately about things they have little real understanding of .
Oil
Oil filters
Fuel Stabilizers
Climate change
conservation
election results
And with this pear I am out of this thread
Hope NavyNancy does well with his mower

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Hey Bert, thanks for the facts on oil. I was beginning to question my use of straight 30 weight in my Cub Cadet 782. It uses a little every other mow, ( approx 3HR) but I will continue what I was doing... But isn't 20w50 a bit heavy for a mower? I'm really curious as to why they would recommend that weight oil.

Usually I have seen recommendations that take temperature into consideration. Maybe because I'm from upstate NY where the weather tends to be more extreme than most places, but still this mind wonders...

Simple as this
When the temperature rises the oil thins
If it gets thin enough more will bypass the rings and be burned in the engine and the seal between the cylinder & the rings will be compromised
If you have ever boiled a car engine , let it get stone cold, refill the engine & crank it then you would have noticed it spun very quickly for a few minutes till the oil got back into the cylinder to create the seal with the piston rings .

A

bertsmobile1 said:

Simple as this
When the temperature rises the oil thins
If it gets thin enough more will bypass the rings and be burned in the engine and the seal between the cylinder & the rings will be compromised
If you have ever boiled a car engine , let it get stone cold, refill the engine & crank it then you would have noticed it spun very quickly for a few minutes till the oil got back into the cylinder to create the seal with the piston rings .

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Absolutely makes sense , but I seldom see 20w50 recommendations on new equipment. Must be that particular engine runs hotter? Or larger tolerances?

20W 50 is 20 at 20 deg C
Strait 30 is 30 at 20 deg C
So 20W 50 should be fine at start up
At 100C 20W 50 is as thin as strait 50 would be at 100 C which is marginally heavier than strait 30 would be at 100 C
I rather think ( just an opinion ) that they specify 10W30 10w40 or strait 30 to encourage owners to use mower oil rather than car oil which used to be 20 w 50 .
One of the reasons why Honda push mower engines start easier than Briggs or Kohlers is because Honda uses 10W 40 and 10w is a lot thinner than strait 30 so there is less viscious friction provided by the oil when you are cranking the engine to start it