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HRC2163HXA MAKA 1094141 Blade Clutch Assembly Bolt Torque Specs

#1

K

Koamolly

Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt that holds on the blade clutch assembly? This is for the one bolt in the center, not the two bolts that hold on the blades. Also, what's the best way to stop the engine from rotating when tightening the bolts? Thanks.


#2

exotion

exotion

Hold the flywheel with something. And tighten it as much as you can by hand don't break it tho


#3

robert@honda

robert@honda

Koamolly said:
Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt that holds on the blade clutch assembly? This is for the one bolt in the center, not the two bolts that hold on the blades. Also, what's the best way to stop the engine from rotating when tightening the bolts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...


#4

exotion

exotion

robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
Click to expand...

Just be careful doing that that's a lot of torque on one side of the blade


#5

K

Koamolly

Interesting, that's lower than I thought since the the owner's manual has 36-43 ft lbs for the blade bolts. I assumed they would be the same. Thanks.


#6

robert@honda

robert@honda

Koamolly said:
Interesting, that's lower than I thought since the the owner's manual has 36-43 ft lbs for the blade bolts. I assumed they would be the same. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The blade bolts are made of a different material, and use special curved washers. They are subject to considerably more stress and must only be tightened to a precise torque for safe, reliable operation and blade retention. Thus, we have a a "special torque" spec for them.

Other "regular" bolts, nuts and fasteners on modern mowers are in different league for stress and operational performance, and are not subject to the type of demands required of a blade bolt, so the torque specs are SAE standard instead.


#7

K

Koamolly

exotion said:
Just be careful doing that that's a lot of torque on one side of the blade
Click to expand...

I'm having trouble following your logic since Honda recommends using a wood block when installing the blades which require a higher torque.


#8

exotion

exotion

That's to stop the crank from spinning. You have your crank shaft which is perfectly balanced, and let's add your blade that is 21" long you stop one side of that blade with wood block and you begin torquing the crank bolt if you put to much pressure on one side of the blade 10" away from the crank you could bend the blade or even the crank . Granted you should be done tightening long before we get to this point some people don't know there own strength and could bend the crank ruining the entire motor.


#9

K

Koamolly

robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
Click to expand...

I retorqued the bolt. I don't think blocking the blades works since blade clutch is not engaged. I did try blocking but the crankshaft still easily rotates. Unless I misunderstood.


#10

exotion

exotion

Koamolly said:
I retorqued the bolt. I don't think blocking the blades works since blade clutch is not engaged. I did try blocking but the crankshaft still easily rotates. Unless I misunderstood.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes blade clutch. The real best way is to either engage clutch and use the block or the best way is strap wrench the flywheel


#11

K

Koamolly

On a sort of related note... What does SUP and PRI stand for in the Honda parts break down description?


#12

robert@honda

robert@honda

Koamolly said:
On a sort of related note... What does SUP and PRI stand for in the Honda parts break down description?
Click to expand...

SUP = superceded to a different part number
PRI = previous part number before being superceded

You can order either and will get the most current part.

FYI, numbers can change when supplier change, colors, or other changes that do no affect the fit or performance of the part.


#13

K

Koamolly

Thanks Robert.

I just ordered the shop manual. I've had an HRC216 hydrostatic drive since they first came out about twenty years ago. It's still going strong but is really beat up and rusted. I came across a good deal on this lightly used current one I asked about and couldn't pass it up. It looks brand new except underneath as some surface rust. The blade clutch made a momentary high pitch squeal when first engage for the first three or four engagements. I took it apart cleaned everything and sanded a bit of rust off the spring and now no more squealing.

One final question. The pads on the drive disc have tiny cracks. Is that normal? I am going to replace it, but maybe they all get that way. Just curious.

Thanks again for the quick responses.


#14

robert@honda

robert@honda

Koamolly said:
One final question. The pads on the drive disc have tiny cracks. Is that normal? I am going to replace it, but maybe they all get that way. Just curious.
Click to expand...

The driven disk has some concentric groves, but cranks/breaks in the linings are not normal. Provided the lining thickness is no less that 4.5mm, and the Roto-Stop operates normally, not a problem. Typically, you'll notice slow or incomplete clutch operation (blade won't engage or slips) that indicate a lining has worn out or is below the service limit thickness.


#15

K

Koamolly

robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
Click to expand...

Just to clarify for accuracy in the future. I just Recieved the shop manual and the correct torque for that bolt is 40 ft-lb, same as the blade bolts.


#16

robert@honda

robert@honda

Koamolly said:
Just to clarify for accuracy in the future. I just Recieved the shop manual and the correct torque for that bolt is 40 ft-lb, same as the blade bolts.
Click to expand...

You are correct; I was looking at the Removal page in the Shop Manual, and no special torque for the 10 x 25mm bolt is listed there, but it is indeed called out at 40 ft-lbs on the Installation page. My mistake. :ashamed:


#17

E

Everyman2007

I looked at this site to find out how to tighten up the central 10 x 12mm bolt ( ref 90105-VA3-J01)at the bottom end of the crankshaft and under the cutting blade. With the blade removed I had to replace the central bolt and found when trying to tighten it, that the whole assembly revolved. No good suggestion on the site was found to stop this rotation. It then occurred to me that at the other end of the crankshaft is the hand starter assembly. Remove this assembly from the top of the engine cover and there is a large nut on the top end of the crankshaft. Using socket spanners of the correct size for the different bolt and nut sizes, you can tighten up the central bolt at the clutch end.

My owner manual for my Honda HRB 475 gives the torque setting as 5 to 6 kg.m

The wood block reference, is stop the cutting blade rotating when tightening the two blade bolts. These bolts are shorter than the central bolt.

This response is long after the original question but it may help fresh enquiries as mine was.


#18

A

Alton R

  1. Mounting bolt torque to be minimum of:
    3/8"-24 UNF use Grade 8 bolt torqued to 40/45 lb.-ft. (Grade 5 bolt is unacceptable)
    7/16"-20 UNF Grade 5 or 8 bolt torqued to 50-55 lb.-ft. (Grade 5 or 8 bolt is acceptable)
    M 10 X 1.50 Class 10.9 torqued to 55-60 N-m.


#19

A

Alton R

Use some blue thread lock.


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