Export thread

Having trouble removing one of the blades under the mower deck. Take the deck off the mower and place it on work horses upside down for easy access. The bolt holding the blade will not budge. Have put Liquid Wrench on the bolt and let it soak overnight then tried the largest wrench I have (12" adjustable). Have even extended the wrench for more leverage using a steel pipe but that bolt just laughs at me. Any suggestions?

rekees said:

Having trouble removing one of the blades under the mower deck. Take the deck off the mower and place it on work horses upside down for easy access. The bolt holding the blade will not budge. Have put Liquid Wrench on the bolt and let it soak overnight then tried the largest wrench I have (12" adjustable). Have even extended the wrench for more leverage using a steel pipe but that bolt just laughs at me. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

sometimes you have to use a impact wrench

If you don't have a impact wrench, you might try a socket with a long handle, hit the handle with with a hammer or something heavy. If that does not work, try heating the part the bolt screws into with a propane torch. Don't give up!

Don't have impact wrench but will investigate getting one. Will also try the propane method. Thanks

Try going the other direction.. you may not be able to *see* any movement but if it breaks the rust a bit, it'll help. Then load it up with penetrating oil again and come back in an hour.. try loosening. Just be careful. Breaking it off will add to your fun..

Just a thought, it may be a reverse thread bolt. Are you sure your going the right direction?

ive used a torch before to heat them up usually worked for me

millers1 said:

Breaking it off will add to your fun..

Click to expand...

Oh yeah that would be more "fun" than a barrel of monkeys. :smile: My main concern is rounding the bolt head corners. That would also be "fun".

billkater said:

Just a thought, it may be a reverse thread bolt. Are you sure your going the right direction?

Click to expand...

Assume it's the standard counter-clockwise direction since the other 2 blades are that way.

rekees said:

Having trouble removing one of the blades under the mower deck. Take the deck off the mower and place it on work horses upside down for easy access. The bolt holding the blade will not budge. Have put Liquid Wrench on the bolt and let it soak overnight then tried the largest wrench I have (12" adjustable). Have even extended the wrench for more leverage using a steel pipe but that bolt just laughs at me. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

I'm not had good luck with Liquid Wrench but PB Blaster has not let me down.
Leo

em14 said:

I'm not had good luck with Liquid Wrench but PB Blaster has not let me down.
Leo

Click to expand...

get rid of the crecent wrench , it will round the head of the bolt, use a good 6 pt socket with a breaker bar
pb blaster is good as is kroll products

"get rid of the crecent wrench , it will round the head of the bolt, use a good 6 pt socket with a breaker bar pb blaster is good as is kroll products"

Never heard of PB Blaster but they have it at Amazon.com so will try it. Have sockets but handle is too short to get good leverage. What is a "breaker bar"?

rekees said:

"get rid of the crecent wrench , it will round the head of the bolt, use a good 6 pt socket with a breaker bar pb blaster is good as is kroll products"

Never heard of PB Blaster but they have it at Amazon.com so will try it. Have sockets but handle is too short to get good leverage. What is a "breaker bar"?

Click to expand...

You can get PB Blaster at Automotive Parts Stores. Hardware Stores (ACE), etc., the same for breaker bars. A breaker bar is a long handle bar which has a socket connection on one end. Gives much more leverage but normally no ratcheting! A pc of steel pipe slid over the handle of the socket wrench works well ... just make sure it is longer then the socket wrench or you will not get any mechanical advantage.

:thumbsup:

dale raquet said:

sometimes you have to use a impact wrench

Click to expand...

I have an electric impact wrench with a full set of impact sockets don't use regular sockets with an impact wrench, they could shatter.

essasmallengines said:

:thumbsup:

I have an electric impact wrench with a full set of impact sockets don't use regular sockets with an impact wrench, they could shatter.

Click to expand...

Oh I didn't know that. Will get set of impact sockets if I get an impact wrench. Thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

Take the deck to a local mechanic. they will usually do it for a few bucks. once off use grease when replacing.

Don't use grease. Use anti-seize compound.

:thumbsup:

em14 said:

You can get PB Blaster at Automotive Parts Stores. Hardware Stores (ACE), etc., the same for breaker bars. A breaker bar is a long handle bar which has a socket connection on one end. Gives much more leverage but normally no ratcheting! A pc of steel pipe slid over the handle of the socket wrench works well ... just make sure it is longer then the socket wrench or you will not get any mechanical advantage.

Click to expand...

think i got breaker bar at Harbor Freight- always have used regular sockets with no prob- bars come in different lenghts-mine has flex hd which allows work at different angles- the longer the bar, the more leverage- i've also put enough pressure on a few bolts to snap them off so be careful, pb blaster can be bought at walmart :thumbsup:

rekees said:

My main concern is rounding the bolt head corners. That would also be "fun".

Click to expand...

If you do round the corners, go to Sears and buy a Craftsman bolt extractor kit - very good product. I've yet to find a damaged bolt it couldn't remove.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952061000P?mv=rr

rekees said:

Having trouble removing one of the blades under the mower deck. Take the deck off the mower and place it on work horses upside down for easy access. The bolt holding the blade will not budge. Have put Liquid Wrench on the bolt and let it soak overnight then tried the largest wrench I have (12" adjustable). Have even extended the wrench for more leverage using a steel pipe but that bolt just laughs at me. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Rekees, purchase a good brand of box-end wrench that fit the offending nut. Soak nut/bolt with 50%/50% mixture of Ketone and ATF fluid at least over night. When torque the nut DON"T exceed 65 fpt until you see movement. New Jack Shafts run around ten dollars. Good Luck!

Once this bolt finally breaks free, I think you're going to need to post a photo. :biggrin:

billcarolh, I don't know what a jack shaft is but when you used the word "torque" a light bulb went off in my brain and I remembered that I purchased a torque wrench 10 years ago. It's a good quality Craftsman 1/2" drive and 20" long. It should provide significantly more leverage than the 12" crescent wrench. So hopefully the torque wrench plus soaking the bolt will do the trick.

Muhammad I promise a photo of the infamous bolt :laughing:

Hand2ThePlow said:

If you do round the corners, go to Sears and buy a Craftsman bolt extractor kit - very good product. I've yet to find a damaged bolt it couldn't remove.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952061000P?mv=rr

Click to expand...

i agree-great tool

After you do get it apart use anti seize compound on the treads. Also use on shafts with keys, such as the rear wheel attachments on lawn tractors. You will never have to fight with these again if you do this religously. Any auto parts store will have anti seize compound.

Please do not use your torque wrench to remove a rusty bolt. It is meant to torque to a specific value when reinstalling fastners. You can and may ruin it removing stuck bolts. Use the PB blaster overnight and wipe down good then heat. Then give it a good wack with a hammer and it should break free.

Try giving it a whack with a brass hammer ,works the same as a nail stuck in a board.Brass won't damage bolt head. Good luck

Dirtysailor said:

Please do not use your torque wrench to remove a rusty bolt. It is meant to torque to a specific value when reinstalling fastners. You can and may ruin it removing stuck bolts.

Click to expand...

This is absolutely correct... Never use a torque wrench, bend beam type OR ratchet type to remove any bolt or nut. It will damage it. They are very accurate if you use them as directed and do not lend them out to someone that will misuse them.
When getting sockets that are going to be subjected to a lot of torque or heavy use, get 6 point sockets. And as stated before use a breaker bar OR get an impact tool... either air powered, electric powered OR the most basic that you strike with a hammer while twisting. Like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
Its only $6.99 but they will remove about anything. KennyV

WOW this has been an educational thread! As they say, you don't know what you don't know. Thanks for the heads up on the torque wrench guys. Appreciate it. :smile:

Have you gotten that Rusty Old Bolt out yet? And if so, How did you remove it?:smile:
Leo

Ya gotta remember if it doesn't work the first time use a bigger hammer and if it breaks it needed replacing anyway!!!!:laughing:

em14 said:

Have you gotten that Rusty Old Bolt out yet? And if so, How did you remove it?:smile:
Leo

Click to expand...

No not yet, Rome wasn't built in a day :smile: I have ordered a "Neiko Heavy-Duty 25" Breaker Bar - 1/2"-Drive - Chrome-Vanadium Steel" and "PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 16 oz. aerosol" from Amazon.com. Already have a hammer & propane torch. So the end is near for the infamous bolt :biggrin:

That Bolt is going to regret the day it decided to RUST!:laughing: Go get 'um!
Leo

rekees said:

No not yet, Rome wasn't built in a day :smile: I have ordered a "Neiko Heavy-Duty 25" Breaker Bar - 1/2"-Drive - Chrome-Vanadium Steel" and "PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 16 oz. aerosol" from Amazon.com. Already have a hammer & propane torch. So the end is near for the infamous bolt :biggrin:

Click to expand...

Can you get someone to video the removal? I would love to see all this come together!:thumbsup:

rekees said:

No not yet, Rome wasn't built in a day :smile: I have ordered a "Neiko Heavy-Duty 25" Breaker Bar - 1/2"-Drive - Chrome-Vanadium Steel" and "PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 16 oz. aerosol" from Amazon.com. Already have a hammer & propane torch. So the end is near for the infamous bolt :biggrin:

Click to expand...

that will do it------walmart also sells pb blaster as does most automotive stores:thumbsup:

By golly you sure have got a lot of ideas to play with as to the removable of a little bolt. and all good advice I will add. One thing that I have found out in three quarters of a century and that is not to worry about the small things. My advice is from what you say and have or about to try on this bolt,
TAKE THE UNIT to a good shop that has the Right tools, pay ;a few bucks, and watch them and what tools they use It will be a learning experience for you and a cheap lesson in repairing a problem.
Education is not cheap, If you learn how and why from experts then all will be easy next time.
Just had to put in my wee bit of learning. Been swinging wrenches for sixty yrs now. Love it and all the new comers that are learning such as you.... All the best.:thumbsup:

The infamous bolt has been removed! The PB Blaster and breaker bar worked well. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. :smile:

rekees said:

The infamous bolt has been removed! The PB Blaster and breaker bar worked well. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. :smile:

Click to expand...

well done brother----------now before you put any of them back in, go to any auto store and get some "never seize " and use it on all bolts and you will never have this problem again.:thumbsup:

rekees said:

The infamous bolt has been removed! The PB Blaster and breaker bar worked well. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. :smile:

Click to expand...

Way to Go! ... like the man said, get some anti seize

Don't heat it you may cook the bearings or bearing seals. load it up go to the local garage and have them use an impact.

Good job! The score is now...

rekees 1, Bolt 0

:thumbsup:

My solution is to use KROIL or equivalent.... douse it good, let it sit for at least an hour, tap the head just once or twice with a hammer, not enough to dent or mar the head, use a good quality socket that fits the head, and try to spin it with my DeWalt impact wrench. Usually works for me...I have several cutters that need this treatment every year.

Let us know what works for you...

An impact wrench will shake it loose, where a breaker bar may break it off. You can get a small compressor (mine is 3HP) and a 1/2 inch impact at Harbor Freight Tools for about $100. It's not as fast as the big commercial compressors, but I can pick mine up and put it in the bed of my pickup.

I know you got the bolt out but for anyone reading this thread, save yourselves the headache and go buy an impact wrench. It is a necessity for a do it yourself person with lawn equipment.

I know this thread is quite old, but I thought I'd throw this in the mix. If you've got a bottoming tap of the right size, use it before you put in your bolt. Slobber some "Never-Sneeze" on the bolt before reassembly, assemble it, and then slobber a little more on the bolt head and any plates, washers, etc. Just having a thin coating on all the parts really slows down how quickly all this stuff gets "grass welded" back together.:biggrin:

Woo hoo thanks for the info!! Finally removed the blade on mine that has been a booger for a long time!!

I like that PB Blaster too! Works great for me. For rusty, stuck bolts I like to take a flat punch and hit on the sides of the bolt to jar it loose and help let the PB Blaster liquid into the threads. I recently bought one of those cheap, Harbor Freight electric impact guns mostly for blade removal. I had one blade bolt on a rider that looked as if it hadn't been off in 10 years! I thought...well, before I waste my PB Blaster on it, I'll see what this new, Chinese import impact gun can do. I used a black impact socket and blocked up the blade and hit it. Before I could say "Wow!" it had spun the bolt clean out. I've only used it a few times so far, but hey...I got it at a discount, PLUS 20% off on top of that. So, if I use it on a dozen mowers it'll be worth it. Beats pulling blades by hand.

Too true! Anything to make life easier working on stuff is a great help.:thumbsup:

Friendly reminder about lubricating bolts. If you do it consult the charts in this forum. Lubrication by various lubricants reduces the torque required to stretch the bolt properly.
This can result in overstretched bolts which cannot produce the intended clamping pressure. Reduction of up to 40% should be observed depending on what lubricant is used.
This is well known hot rod information.

motoman said:

Friendly reminder about lubricating bolts. If you do it consult the charts in this forum. Lubrication by various lubricants reduces the torque required to stretch the bolt properly.
This can result in overstretched bolts which cannot produce the intended clamping pressure. Reduction of up to 40% should be observed depending on what lubricant is used.
This is well known hot rod information.

Click to expand...

This is something a lot of people do not know or just forget some times.
Thank you for the reminder.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

motoman said:

Friendly reminder about lubricating bolts. If you do it consult the charts in this forum. Lubrication by various lubricants reduces the torque required to stretch the bolt properly.
This can result in overstretched bolts which cannot produce the intended clamping pressure. Reduction of up to 40% should be observed depending on what lubricant is used.
This is well known hot rod information.

Click to expand...

Would that apply for the blade bolts? I know it is important for head bolts, etc. If so, I better start paying attention...:smile:
Bruce