Export thread

I have a Honda snow blower with a G200 side valve engine and the exhaust valve is stuck open. I tried warming the engine and tapping on the side, but had no luck. I was thinking of spraying some penetrating oil under the valve head. I can see it through the spark plug hole, I can see the intake valve opening and closing and the piston going up and down, and can just see the edge of the exhaust valve which doesn't move.

Any quick fixes to this? I am contemplating removing the head or the muffler to try to free this up.

thanks

Bruce Green
Massachusetts

Try the penetrating oil. Sometimes the valve has to be freed up by turning on it and pushing. But try the lube first.

I would also say try the penetrating oil. If you can get the valve spring cover off easy maybe you can work the valve from there.

have you removed the valve cover and inspected the valve retainers?you may have just had one come loose,or a worn or broken valve spring.

tybilly said:

have you removed the valve cover and inspected the valve retainers?you may have just had one come loose,or a worn or broken valve spring.

Click to expand...

You have me confused here? Did he not say side valve engine? This tells me that this is a flat head engine without a valve cover? This is why I called it a valve spring cover but then you could still call it a valve cover also. I do own a Honda flat head so I will just have to go give it a better look seeing I am just guessing here.

It is a side valve engine and I have not removed the spring cover on the side. My suspicion is that it is not a retainer, but the valve is stuck in the guide. I have been using leaded fuel from the airport because it is very stable, however it may have caused this problem. So my first shot is the penetrating oil and let it seep down the valve stem. Then I am inclined to remove the muffler and perhaps access the stem through the exhaust port and try to free it up that way. Thanks for the ideas.

skybolt31 said:

It is a side valve engine and I have not removed the spring cover on the side. My suspicion is that it is not a retainer, but the valve is stuck in the guide. I have been using leaded fuel from the airport because it is very stable, however it may have caused this problem. So my first shot is the penetrating oil and let it seep down the valve stem. Then I am inclined to remove the muffler and perhaps access the stem through the exhaust port and try to free it up that way. Thanks for the ideas.

Click to expand...

If you can get to the valve at all it doesn't take that much with penetrating oil if you can move the valve a small amount.

reynoldston said:

If you can get to the valve at all it doesn't take that much with penetrating oil if you can move the valve a small amount.

Click to expand...

I ended up taking the head off and pushed the valve down. It snapped back down, but then stuck again when I pulled it through. Had to cycle it about 25 times before it was free. Put it back together and it runs fine. I reused the head gasket though, so I should probably get a new one and be ready to change it out.

skybolt31 said:

I ended up taking the head off and pushed the valve down. It snapped back down, but then stuck again when I pulled it through. Had to cycle it about 25 times before it was free. Put it back together and it runs fine. I reused the head gasket though, so I should probably get a new one and be ready to change it out.

Click to expand...

Through the years I have used the old head gaskets over many times. When I do use a head gasket over I give it a coat of shellac. I'm going to say you are OK to go.

Put new gasket on every time you remove a part that has a gasket on it including head gasket.

davbell22602 said:

Put new gasket on every time you remove a part that has a gasket on it including head gasket.

Click to expand...

Why? If the old gasket is good why change it?

reynoldston said:

Why? If the old gasket is good why change it?

Click to expand...

Once you tightened the bolts down it smashes the gasket and leaves a impression on it. So do you think will happen if you tightened a up carb, cylinderhead gasket, etc. that already has that impression on that used gasket? It will probably have air leak, right?

davbell22602 said:

Once you tightened the bolts down it smashes the gasket and leaves a impression on it. So do you think will happen if you tightened a up carb, cylinderhead gasket, etc. that already has that impression on that used gasket? It will probably have air leak, right?

Click to expand...

I see one more time we don't agree but that's OK because we don't have to. I don't change every gasket on every job if the old gasket is still good and I don't have leaks. Yes I will change a gasket if it gets hard, brittle, and breaks. On some of the older jobs seeing its hard to find new gaskets, its even more so. On them I will use a sealant or if need be make a new gasket. This also go's for seals and bearings which if they are still OK I don't replace them. I can be a little a little on the tight side when it comes to spending money when I don't have to.

reynoldston said:

I see one more time we don't agree but that's OK because we don't have to. I don't change every gasket on every job if the old gasket is still good and I don't have leaks. Yes I will change a gasket if it gets hard, brittle, and breaks. On some of the older jobs seeing its hard to find new gaskets, its even more so. On them I will use a sealant or if need be make a new gasket. This also go's for seals and bearings which if they are still OK I don't replace them. I can be a little a little on the tight side when it comes to spending money when I don't have to.

Click to expand...

Yea, Its ok to point out our differences respectfully. I dont use sealant either. If I have to sealant then there's a bad part that needs to be replaced because its warped. If the engine manufacturer wanted us use to sealant then they would have done so when the engine is new or put out service bulletin about it. When someone brings there equipment to fix I do the permanent fix not a temporary band aide fix such reusing old gaskets and using sealants etc. I dont want piece equipment coming back after leaving that first time cause reusing gaskets and sealant didnt work.

You might want to look into some of the newer sealants. They have come a long way on them since the horse and buggy days. One heck of a lot cheaper then changing parts for no reason. You have a very good plan there but you sure wouldn't be working on my equipment. Some cases don't use gaskets at all but use anaerobic sealant. What do you do there just replace?

reynoldston said:

You might want to look into some of the newer sealants. They have come a long way on them since the horse and buggy days. One heck of a lot cheaper then changing parts for no reason. You have a very good plan there but you sure wouldn't be working on my equipment. Some cases don't use gaskets at all but use anaerobic sealant. What do you do there just replace?

Click to expand...

I haven't ran into anything that doesnt use gaskets and just the anaerobic sealant yet in small engines. In automotive I would inspect the part warp with a straight edge and use sealant if the part isnt warped or damaged from wear.

davbell22602 said:

I haven't ran into anything that doesnt use gaskets and just the anaerobic sealant yet in small engines. In automotive I would inspect the part warp with a straight edge and use sealant if the part isnt warped or damaged from wear.

Click to expand...

The only time I get into automotive anymore is when I am forced into it. The last car engine I got into was a whole different story as far as gaskets and torques go. But this is more a small engine and mower forum. Where the anaerobic sealant is used on aluminum engine cases where they are machined together where they need bearing clearances. Now back to the original question. The OP used their old head gasket over. Yes as a rule I would say install new head gaskets. They didn't and for what ever reason I don't know. I have been it that part of a repair on some older engines and just couldn't find parts anymore seeing the don't make them anymore. What I will do is clean the head and cylinder top real well. Then I will determine how the old gasket came off. I will coat the gasket with a shellac type sealant and install it the way it came off. I have never ran into any problems doing this. I just don't see why the OP needs to do the job over unless they blow out the old gasket. I just don't take a straight on everything I take apart and just don't feel everything doesn't need a new gasket. How do other repair shops handle this?

I know my buddies shop would replace the head gasket instead reusing it. His shop stay 4-6 weeks behind in the spring/summer and probably 2-3 or 3-4 in the winter months.

davbell22602 said:

I know my buddies shop would replace the head gasket instead reusing it. His shop stay 4-6 weeks behind in the spring/summer and probably 2-3 or 3-4 in the winter months.

Click to expand...

Now we aren't talking about a shop here but a home owner that did the repair on the kitchen table??? I don't know what your buddy doses for repairs. But if he has a unlimited parts supply good for him but I don't and the OP didn't. Now didn't I say I do replace them when I can and I am sure the OP would of if he had one. I even have to go to mower salvage yards to buy used parts that aren't made anymore. Your buddy must work on all newer equipment or I am sure he would run into the same problem unless he knows of a place that sells new old stock? If so let me in on this secret place.

reynoldston said:

Now we aren't talking about a shop here but a home owner that did the repair on the kitchen table??? I don't know what your buddy doses for repairs. But if he has a unlimited parts supply good for him but I don't and the OP didn't. Now didn't I say I do replace them when I can and I am sure the OP would of if he had one. I even have to go to mower salvage yards to buy used parts that aren't made anymore. Your buddy must work on all newer equipment or I am sure he would run into the same problem unless he knows of a place that sells new old stock? If so let me in on this secret place.

Click to expand...

Thats not what you put at the end of your last post.

davbell22602 said:

Thats not what you put at the end of your last post.

Click to expand...

I guess I lost you on that? One thing for sure we don't agree on this, but what do I know I am just a dumb retired mechanic that has spent a life time doing this work. Its just too late for me to learn the right way anymore at my age and I really don't want to learn because here I am on a Thursday afternoon arguing with a person that knows all. Now if I was making a living doing this work I sure wouldn't be here sitting in my recliner arguing with you. I did my share of 16 hr. + days and I didn't retire to do more of them but I sure enjoy sitting on my *** with the computer in my lap. Now just what is your story?? You sure aren't turning wrenches today for some reason. Lets just be friends because I enjoy our disagreements. This isn't the first time and I hope not the last. :smile: :wink:

Red high temp gasket maker works great for me I use it on heads crank case and valve covers doesn't always work good on carbs plus I a little scares of the engine sucking any in

Thanks everyone for the somewhat spirited advice! I found some head gaskets on ebay for a few bucks, so I will order two so I have a spare. I find it interesting all the different options for gasket sealing, I usually put a thin coat of Dow Corning #4 which is a dielectric grease commonly used in the aviation world on them. Makes them very easy to take apart and perhaps reuse. If I have any suspicion that it might leak, I put a thin coat of RTV. I have always viewed head gaskets as being in their own separate category as a gasket that gets squeezed out and after use should never be brought near an engine again. I have very little experience with small engines however, especially Hondas, so I thought I would ask the question.