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Honda 20HP Starting Issue
#1
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
Honda 18HP VTWIN Starting Issue On Hustler Fastrac
** Correction - Engine is a 18HP VTWIN Tag identifies this as Engine Family 1HNXS 6712AK and the stamped numbe on the block shows QAFX GJAC - 2007264 (S/N ?)
We have a 9 year old Hustler Fastrak with a Honda Engine that is giving us fits.
The wife is the primary operator and I have to give her credit for her work around but I would like to fix this issue.
The mower refuses to start after sitting - especially if we have had any moisture/dew. The mower sits in an open pole barn.
Her work around is to use a hair dryer blowing hot air at the back end of the mower engine. Usually after about 10-15 mins the mower will start - but not always. Sometimes we have to tow it out into the yard in the sun and let it sit for a few hours.
Local 'servicing' dealer has no clue about the problem. Storing it 'inside' is not an option.
My suspicion is some part is collecting moisture as it cools down during the humid night air. Question is which part? Replacing piece by piece is not appealing to my pocketbook.
Any Ideas folks.
Also about to replace the spindle bearings as one or more has just started whining - high pitched whine. At least the spindle bearings appear to be the location of the noise. Also open to suggestions on that issue too.
Thanks to all in advance from a newcomer to this site.
** Correction - Engine is a 18HP VTWIN Tag identifies this as Engine Family 1HNXS 6712AK and the stamped numbe on the block shows QAFX GJAC - 2007264 (S/N ?)
We have a 9 year old Hustler Fastrak with a Honda Engine that is giving us fits.
The wife is the primary operator and I have to give her credit for her work around but I would like to fix this issue.
The mower refuses to start after sitting - especially if we have had any moisture/dew. The mower sits in an open pole barn.
Her work around is to use a hair dryer blowing hot air at the back end of the mower engine. Usually after about 10-15 mins the mower will start - but not always. Sometimes we have to tow it out into the yard in the sun and let it sit for a few hours.
Local 'servicing' dealer has no clue about the problem. Storing it 'inside' is not an option.
My suspicion is some part is collecting moisture as it cools down during the humid night air. Question is which part? Replacing piece by piece is not appealing to my pocketbook.
Any Ideas folks.
Also about to replace the spindle bearings as one or more has just started whining - high pitched whine. At least the spindle bearings appear to be the location of the noise. Also open to suggestions on that issue too.
Thanks to all in advance from a newcomer to this site.
Attachments
#3
EngineMan
EngineMan
"The mower refuses to start after sitting - especially if we have had any moisture/dew."
Coil, kill switch or kill wire.
Coil, kill switch or kill wire.
#4
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
Starting Issue
Hard to understand how a plug wire would be 'fixed' by blowing hot air on it. The Coil I understand perhaps,
but I don't see the coil anywhere in the path where the hair dryer is being used. Some one suggested that moisture or rust has built up on the
flywheel magnets. And of course having an 'authorized' repair man say he has no clue doesn't help. This was even after they had the mower in their shop to work on for that very reason. If I had money to throw at the problem I would replace the engine - Honda engines have never performed well for me.
Hard to understand how a plug wire would be 'fixed' by blowing hot air on it. The Coil I understand perhaps,
but I don't see the coil anywhere in the path where the hair dryer is being used. Some one suggested that moisture or rust has built up on the
flywheel magnets. And of course having an 'authorized' repair man say he has no clue doesn't help. This was even after they had the mower in their shop to work on for that very reason. If I had money to throw at the problem I would replace the engine - Honda engines have never performed well for me.
#5
EngineMan
EngineMan
Re: Starting Issue
First you ask questions, then you question the answers...!
Then you say someone suggested moisture on the flywheel, rust on the flywheel shouldn't make any difference.
Your "authorized repair man" can't be that good if he has had it in to fix it and can't, or doesn't know what the problem is.
It seems that you will need a part or parts, and you are not willing to put money towards it, is there need for us here to give you any more help with this..?. at the end of the day, its up to you.
Hard to understand how a plug wire would be 'fixed' by blowing hot air on it. The Coil I understand perhaps,
but I don't see the coil anywhere in the path where the hair dryer is being used. Some one suggested that moisture or rust has built up on the
flywheel magnets. And of course having an 'authorized' repair man say he has no clue doesn't help. This was even after they had the mower in their shop to work on for that very reason. If I had money to throw at the problem I would replace the engine - Honda engines have never performed well for me.
First you ask questions, then you question the answers...!
Then you say someone suggested moisture on the flywheel, rust on the flywheel shouldn't make any difference.
Your "authorized repair man" can't be that good if he has had it in to fix it and can't, or doesn't know what the problem is.
It seems that you will need a part or parts, and you are not willing to put money towards it, is there need for us here to give you any more help with this..?. at the end of the day, its up to you.
#6
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
It's not a problem to spend money to repair a mower when I know that the part will fix the problem. BUT I do have a problem just replacing parts in hope of getting the right part somewhere along the line. For instance I found a post here or on another board that suggested the problem could be the "ignition module" this engine has nothing listed as an ignition module. Ignition coil, yes a right and left.
And yes I have zero confidence in an "authorized" dealership that shrugs their shoulders even when they have the mower there to work on. Seems that perhaps they aren't interested in the job. Of course as I look around they have lots of Hustler mowers for sale but their shop seems to be primarily occupied with larger equipment. That suggests that they want the sales but have no interest in service work, which normally is a money maker for most shops.
In any case I am hoping that someone has experience with this problem. I did find a thread hear that sounds very similar even down to the engine brand and model but I found nothing regarding if the original poster actually found the solution.
I am looking for solutions but not just WAGs that lead to spending money because someone 'thinks' this could, maybe, be the cause. I've already replaced a hydro drive unit at less than half the dealers estimate for the part alone I know I can do the work, I know the solutions are sometimes tough to figure out but... I just want to make sure what I replace needs replacing. I am also going to rebuild the spindles now because one or more is starting to whine occasionally. Money for parts that need replacing is fine but on a whim or someone's guess isn't what I'm looking for.
And yes I have zero confidence in an "authorized" dealership that shrugs their shoulders even when they have the mower there to work on. Seems that perhaps they aren't interested in the job. Of course as I look around they have lots of Hustler mowers for sale but their shop seems to be primarily occupied with larger equipment. That suggests that they want the sales but have no interest in service work, which normally is a money maker for most shops.
In any case I am hoping that someone has experience with this problem. I did find a thread hear that sounds very similar even down to the engine brand and model but I found nothing regarding if the original poster actually found the solution.
I am looking for solutions but not just WAGs that lead to spending money because someone 'thinks' this could, maybe, be the cause. I've already replaced a hydro drive unit at less than half the dealers estimate for the part alone I know I can do the work, I know the solutions are sometimes tough to figure out but... I just want to make sure what I replace needs replacing. I am also going to rebuild the spindles now because one or more is starting to whine occasionally. Money for parts that need replacing is fine but on a whim or someone's guess isn't what I'm looking for.
#7
EngineMan
Right so next time its unwilling to start give the coils and leads a good soak with WD40 leave for about 30mins, better an hour, then see if engine will start up.
WD40 is something you should have in the garage.
EngineMan
I know the solutions are sometimes tough to figure out but... I just want to make sure what I replace needs replacing.
Right so next time its unwilling to start give the coils and leads a good soak with WD40 leave for about 30mins, better an hour, then see if engine will start up.
WD40 is something you should have in the garage.
#8
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
Thanks! Certainly worth a try. Today the mower is starting fine but it's hot, dry and sitting out under the shade trees. I'll set a can of WD40 next to the mower to remind me next time around.
#9
reynoldston
reynoldston
Well I got some news for you. If the dealer can't fix it with the mower in front of him how do you think anyone can fix it a long ways off over a forum then other then a guess. When I give any answer for repairs I try to keep them generic. I have been a mechanic for over 60 years and I still have to look for problems. From the sounds of your mower not starting it has to be a moisture problem in the ignition system. If I was to look for this problem I would wet the system with water and work from there till it starts. Did I see it has two coils if so it would still run on one cylinder if it had a bad coil, but no power.
#10
T
Tom59
T
Tom59
Maybe the hairdryer isn't fixing it , maybe its a freak thing. Why not check continuity on the wires. Plug wires where the connect to the plug itself can and do split , crack or corrode. I'd say a silicone spray to keep moisture out. Without a mower in front of either one of us the fixes are complete guesses. -obviously.
Coils- check the plug for spark surely you can check spark. Got spark - check fuel maybe the line has a vacuum in it. Maybe the fuel filter is filthy. Rust where the coils sit could be an issue -you'd have no spark.
Disconnect the fuel source , check for fuel. You only need a couple things to start an engine. Kill switches could do it that another easy check. I'm not sure your handles control the brake like mine does , if it does, check the switches there. Make sure you have contact.
It's not rocket science. Start with spark , then fuel , then switches , look over a manual and see where they are if need be.
Coils- check the plug for spark surely you can check spark. Got spark - check fuel maybe the line has a vacuum in it. Maybe the fuel filter is filthy. Rust where the coils sit could be an issue -you'd have no spark.
Disconnect the fuel source , check for fuel. You only need a couple things to start an engine. Kill switches could do it that another easy check. I'm not sure your handles control the brake like mine does , if it does, check the switches there. Make sure you have contact.
It's not rocket science. Start with spark , then fuel , then switches , look over a manual and see where they are if need be.
#11
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
I have had this problem before on a mower a few years ago.
Engine would start, run and mow for 30 mins then switch off and then not restart.
Also it would produce a misfire as if running on one cylinder.
There is various things to check.
The coil caps that plug on the spark plug are resisters and they can fail. a simple ohms reading test can
Show if they are faulty.
Also the same test can be done on the high tension and low tension of each coil.
Also the diode for switching the coils off to earth can be checked.
Also the you can check and make sure the carb antifire solenoid is always working ie voltage present.
And one last thing is to isolate the electrical components from the engine to the chassis.
Is it an engine fault or a chassis fault ie safety switch etc.
Mine was cap problem.
Changed them to normalspark plug terminals and it fixed it.
Engine would start, run and mow for 30 mins then switch off and then not restart.
Also it would produce a misfire as if running on one cylinder.
There is various things to check.
The coil caps that plug on the spark plug are resisters and they can fail. a simple ohms reading test can
Show if they are faulty.
Also the same test can be done on the high tension and low tension of each coil.
Also the diode for switching the coils off to earth can be checked.
Also the you can check and make sure the carb antifire solenoid is always working ie voltage present.
And one last thing is to isolate the electrical components from the engine to the chassis.
Is it an engine fault or a chassis fault ie safety switch etc.
Mine was cap problem.
Changed them to normalspark plug terminals and it fixed it.
#12
S
Scooter49
Seems like several folks here have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed.
Look, you can say what you want but when I make an honest attempt to refine the information on the problem and question the responses I am receiving, you don't have to launch an attack. 60 years of experience apparently hasn't given you the knack for civil discussion on a internet board. Flaming me is your right but it doesn't earn you my respect or trust in your comments regardless of how much experience you may have. Your assumption that the dealer - MECHANIC to be correct here, knows his stuff is a big leap in faith. You have no knowledge of his experience level or what he has experience in for that matter. As I stated - the majority of the equipment that I have seen in their shop is larger heavy equipment such as Bobcat loaders and large tractors - as you should know that is far from the same thing as a lawnmower engine. When I had my mower in their shop they expressed no interest in resolving the problem and dismissed it as some phantom problem. As I have already determined on this board and a couple of other places, this is not a one, off issue. At least one other poster on this board had a similar problem. That might have provided me the help I needed IF that person had ever posted what he did to resolve the issue or IF he ever did find a solution.
The evidence points to an electrical problem. Fuel flow is fine, Switches are working but on those days when the weather has been damp, something in the ignition system is not connecting. AND with very few exceptions, the improbable solution of using a hair dryer has worked. The question I have posed is does anyone have a clue as to what on the back of a Honda V-Twin engine would be collections moisture to the point of causing a failure of the system. I can certainly replace both coils but spending about $100.00 parts just on a suggestion is not something I consider an easy or great decision. Throwing money at a problem isn't the way I was raised and I think that most folks who post on here are also looking to save turning their equipment over to a mechanic to do a hunt for a problem such as this. I would expect that a mechanic experienced in small engines, especially Honda brand engines would have run across this problem before. Apparently those who have are not on this board or haven't checked in here yet.
S
Scooter49
Well I got some news for you. If the dealer can't fix it with the mower in front of him how do you think anyone can fix it a long ways off over a forum then other then a guess. When I give any answer for repairs I try to keep them generic. I have been a mechanic for over 60 years and I still have to look for problems. From the sounds of your mower not starting it has to be a moisture problem in the ignition system. If I was to look for this problem I would wet the system with water and work from there till it starts. Did I see it has two coils if so it would still run on one cylinder if it had a bad coil, but no power.
Seems like several folks here have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed.
Look, you can say what you want but when I make an honest attempt to refine the information on the problem and question the responses I am receiving, you don't have to launch an attack. 60 years of experience apparently hasn't given you the knack for civil discussion on a internet board. Flaming me is your right but it doesn't earn you my respect or trust in your comments regardless of how much experience you may have. Your assumption that the dealer - MECHANIC to be correct here, knows his stuff is a big leap in faith. You have no knowledge of his experience level or what he has experience in for that matter. As I stated - the majority of the equipment that I have seen in their shop is larger heavy equipment such as Bobcat loaders and large tractors - as you should know that is far from the same thing as a lawnmower engine. When I had my mower in their shop they expressed no interest in resolving the problem and dismissed it as some phantom problem. As I have already determined on this board and a couple of other places, this is not a one, off issue. At least one other poster on this board had a similar problem. That might have provided me the help I needed IF that person had ever posted what he did to resolve the issue or IF he ever did find a solution.
The evidence points to an electrical problem. Fuel flow is fine, Switches are working but on those days when the weather has been damp, something in the ignition system is not connecting. AND with very few exceptions, the improbable solution of using a hair dryer has worked. The question I have posed is does anyone have a clue as to what on the back of a Honda V-Twin engine would be collections moisture to the point of causing a failure of the system. I can certainly replace both coils but spending about $100.00 parts just on a suggestion is not something I consider an easy or great decision. Throwing money at a problem isn't the way I was raised and I think that most folks who post on here are also looking to save turning their equipment over to a mechanic to do a hunt for a problem such as this. I would expect that a mechanic experienced in small engines, especially Honda brand engines would have run across this problem before. Apparently those who have are not on this board or haven't checked in here yet.
#13
T
Tom59
T
Tom59
You cannot detect inflection in a post , sorry. :wink: I am almost always in a good mood. :smile: What I don't get is people are giving their time to help you and you never fully stated all the things you've tried or checked. Nobody here can test parts for you. :smile:
I still haven't read whether you checked spark when it won't start. :smile: Happy face. I also haven't seen the engine model number posted. I'm guessing GX620
I know there is a recall for fastraks and starting issues did you check for a recall through Hustler on this. -starter relay kit- No idea what yr the recall covers or what yrs had issues.
Voltage regulator , Coils , engine cutoff diode, charging stator coil. :smile:
NEW SET OF 2 Ignition Coils Left AND Right Fits Honda GX620 20HP V Twin Engines | eBay :smile:
I still haven't read whether you checked spark when it won't start. :smile: Happy face. I also haven't seen the engine model number posted. I'm guessing GX620
I know there is a recall for fastraks and starting issues did you check for a recall through Hustler on this. -starter relay kit- No idea what yr the recall covers or what yrs had issues.
Voltage regulator , Coils , engine cutoff diode, charging stator coil. :smile:
NEW SET OF 2 Ignition Coils Left AND Right Fits Honda GX620 20HP V Twin Engines | eBay :smile:
#14
reynoldston
reynoldston
You live in Arkansas and I live in New York. We don't know each other and I sure don't know your mower dealer. I have never seen your mower or know anything about it. This is just a forum and I was just trying to give you some idea what to look for. No one here can fix your mower here but you. The nice thing here is I can just avoid you from now on.
#15
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
Re: Honda 18HP Starting Issue
Thanks for the pointers one and all.
Unfortunately the info I had on the engine was slightly off so the title of 20HP is incorrect the model is GXV610 an 18HP unit. I edited the initial post to correct these items.
As to spark check - correct - not starting = no spark when I check that (Both sides). Fuel if fine in fact if you crank it too long the gas smell becomes obvious.
Switches all appear to be working fine. Since no air is applied to the area of the switches (Hair Dryer) I have to assume that the part (s) at fault are on the engine proper. So far based on comments and research it does appear to be related to the coils of the stop diodes. It has been hot and dry lately so no chance to test any of the other remedies suggested such as using WD40 on the coil to ward off the moisture.
This is a long term issue and since the engine does actually start and run it doesn't appear to be an outright failure of a part but rather a part that is failing only when sufficient moisture is around to stop the flow of electricity. Seat Kill switch has been checked (bypassed) the usual easy electrical process checks.
In honesty I was just hoping to find others with the same issue and see what they had done to fix the problem. The fact that it's a total shut down with no spark on either side and only a temporary condition is the thing the is puzzling.
As to the recall I inquired of Hustler yesterday to make sure that my engine is exactly what I believe it to be and that was confirmed but they didn't mention a recall in their response.
Again I'll keep trying to trace this down.
For now I have to get ready to rebuild the spindles with new bearings. The whine is getting worse and I want to head that off before it damages the shafts or housings.
ONE more question - on the Hustlers circa 2004 what lubrication is provided to the idler pulleys ? I found nothing in the maintenance guides and while I may have missed it I can't believe that they would be permanently sealed bearing units.
Thanks for the pointers one and all.
Unfortunately the info I had on the engine was slightly off so the title of 20HP is incorrect the model is GXV610 an 18HP unit. I edited the initial post to correct these items.
As to spark check - correct - not starting = no spark when I check that (Both sides). Fuel if fine in fact if you crank it too long the gas smell becomes obvious.
Switches all appear to be working fine. Since no air is applied to the area of the switches (Hair Dryer) I have to assume that the part (s) at fault are on the engine proper. So far based on comments and research it does appear to be related to the coils of the stop diodes. It has been hot and dry lately so no chance to test any of the other remedies suggested such as using WD40 on the coil to ward off the moisture.
This is a long term issue and since the engine does actually start and run it doesn't appear to be an outright failure of a part but rather a part that is failing only when sufficient moisture is around to stop the flow of electricity. Seat Kill switch has been checked (bypassed) the usual easy electrical process checks.
In honesty I was just hoping to find others with the same issue and see what they had done to fix the problem. The fact that it's a total shut down with no spark on either side and only a temporary condition is the thing the is puzzling.
As to the recall I inquired of Hustler yesterday to make sure that my engine is exactly what I believe it to be and that was confirmed but they didn't mention a recall in their response.
Again I'll keep trying to trace this down.
For now I have to get ready to rebuild the spindles with new bearings. The whine is getting worse and I want to head that off before it damages the shafts or housings.
ONE more question - on the Hustlers circa 2004 what lubrication is provided to the idler pulleys ? I found nothing in the maintenance guides and while I may have missed it I can't believe that they would be permanently sealed bearing units.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I have stayed out of this one for as long as I can, but there is one mistake that the OP has made when ever you work on electrical problems. That mistake is assuming something is working properly. As I have posted in the past, there are three things that must be done in electrical diagnosis. 1. Check everything, meaning every wire, connection, component, etc. 2. Verify everything you check, meaning does it work in all conditions of operation. 3. Assume nothing, meaning just because it is working, does not mean it is working properly. Have I seen problems like this, YES. Are they easy to solve, NO. The members on this forum are trying to help, and not at least trying the suggestions, does not set well with your credibility. We are thousand miles apart and as posted, we cannot see or feel your equipment. It you don't like the answers we give, that is your choice, but don't knock us for trying. Most of the members who are trying to help have thousands of hours experience working on small engines, but we will tell you that very seldom two are alike, especially with electrical problems. The best test that I saw was two wet the unit down and start testing. Why haven't you tried this. Second is using a lube, WD-40, as a protectant on certain areas to narrow the problem down. These two suggestions, when used together, might just work to help you solve the problem. Is it going to take time, yes, but you do want to solve the problem and there is no easy solution we can give you. I have not see anyone say just start replacing parts, but have seen many say, you are going to have to get down and dirty, because there is no simple answer to your question. I guess you now have to make a choice. Either start following the suggestions posted, or tell us that we don't know what we are talking about and stop looking for answers here, as you know more than we do and can't help you. My opinion is that you feel we are just like your mechanic and want you to spend big bucks to solve your problem. THAT'S WHY WE DO THIS FOR FREE.
#17
T
Tom59
T
Tom59
^^Exactly electrical problems are a pita. Or can be - I am much better fixing them when my meter can touch them. Rule of thumb , rule nothing out electrically. Anything that shuts it off can be an issue.
Electrical problems usually don't happen the same way to everyone even on the same machine. If it did it would be recalled and serviced - for most good companies.
READ THROUGH HERE:
http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/hustler-forum/4085-fastrak-any-issues.html
Electrical problems usually don't happen the same way to everyone even on the same machine. If it did it would be recalled and serviced - for most good companies.
READ THROUGH HERE:
http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/hustler-forum/4085-fastrak-any-issues.html
#19
D
DaveTN
D
DaveTN
God help the poor owner and the mechanic who is burdened with an "intermittent electrical problem". Most any mechanic in the field from B&S to Porsche, to Cummins, to Ferrari to Rolls Royce Jet Engines will tell you that electrical is probably the biggest headache area to contend with! Somehow electrical and moisture are arch enemies and corrosion is the fellow in the middle. As "Rivets" said in an earlier post..."Assume nothing when it comes to the electrical system!" (paraphrased) Personally I HATE electrical diagnosis and when I was an apprentice electrician I found house and commercial wiring a breeze compared to automotive and small gas engine electrical problems. Still do! Let's all go back to page 1 and begin over. Surely a small electrical Grimlin lurking in the electrical system can't stump all of us? My attempt to find this Gremlin would begin with tests by meter, test light, and hopefully some LUCK!!
#20
S
Scooter49
S
Scooter49
After I finally was able to get ahold of the shop where I bought the mower their mechanic explained how a failed coil could cause my problem. After checking once again I found that there was spark on side but not the other. Replaced coil problem solved.
Apparently the heat applied can temporarily revived a failed coil in some cases. Additionally, according the local shop mechanic, there is enough connection (?) that a weak coil can draw from a good coil. That I didn't understand but in any case I found that one dead/weak coil was enough to keep the engine from running at all.
Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas.
Apparently the heat applied can temporarily revived a failed coil in some cases. Additionally, according the local shop mechanic, there is enough connection (?) that a weak coil can draw from a good coil. That I didn't understand but in any case I found that one dead/weak coil was enough to keep the engine from running at all.
Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas.
#21
EngineMan
EngineMan
So it was the coil after all...! happy to know that you have her running now.:thumbsup:
#22
T
Tom59
T
Tom59
Glad you got it squared away.....now your wife can use the hair dryer for her hair! :wink:
#23
C
cjj
my hustler doing the same thing with the 20hp honda engine. check the rectifier at the connection , that's what was wrong with mine. corrosion at the connection.
C
cjj
Seems like several folks here have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed.
Look, you can say what you want but when I make an honest attempt to refine the information on the problem and question the responses I am receiving, you don't have to launch an attack. 60 years of experience apparently hasn't given you the knack for civil discussion on a internet board. Flaming me is your right but it doesn't earn you my respect or trust in your comments regardless of how much experience you may have. Your assumption that the dealer - MECHANIC to be correct here, knows his stuff is a big leap in faith. You have no knowledge of his experience level or what he has experience in for that matter. As I stated - the majority of the equipment that I have seen in their shop is larger heavy equipment such as Bobcat loaders and large tractors - as you should know that is far from the same thing as a lawnmower engine. When I had my mower in their shop they expressed no interest in resolving the problem and dismissed it as some phantom problem. As I have already determined on this board and a couple of other places, this is not a one, off issue. At least one other poster on this board had a similar problem. That might have provided me the help I needed IF that person had ever posted what he did to resolve the issue or IF he ever did find a solution.
The evidence points to an electrical problem. Fuel flow is fine, Switches are working but on those days when the weather has been damp, something in the ignition system is not connecting. AND with very few exceptions, the improbable solution of using a hair dryer has worked. The question I have posed is does anyone have a clue as to what on the back of a Honda V-Twin engine would be collections moisture to the point of causing a failure of the system. I can certainly replace both coils but spending about $100.00 parts just on a suggestion is not something I consider an easy or great decision. Throwing money at a problem isn't the way I was raised and I think that most folks who post on here are also looking to save turning their equipment over to a mechanic to do a hunt for a problem such as this. I would expect that a mechanic experienced in small engines, especially Honda brand engines would have run across this problem before. Apparently those who have are not on this board or haven't checked in here yet.
my hustler doing the same thing with the 20hp honda engine. check the rectifier at the connection , that's what was wrong with mine. corrosion at the connection.