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Hit a stump, mower died, need help troubleshooting please.
#1
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Hello! I have a Craftsman LT2000 with a 19.5hp B&S engine. It was running great while I was mowing and then I hit a tree stump that my husband had cut down a while back. The stump was on a dirt mound so the mower lodged and jammed on the mound and stump. It came to an immediate halt. The mower shuddered slightly, died and a smal puff of black smoke came out of the engine. I immediately smelled a strong fuel odor that lasted for several minutes. I put all controls back into their off/disengaged position, pulled the mower off the stump and inspected the deck and blade. I did not remove the deck or blade. Just checked as it was. The blade(s) rotated ok. Deck looks ok. Belt is intact and ok. Checked inside the engine because of fuel smell. Fuel still holding in the tank ok. So I tried to restart it. It cranks, but it sounds "smoother/easier" as if something that it used to do is not happening anymore. It used to sound more "gutteral". Sorry, I am not sure how to explain the sound. It does not sound bad, just different. So it just cranks and cranks and nothing happens. It did backfire once while trying to start it.
Bare with me... this is my first experience working on a riding mower.
I made this video to try to get some help when it first happened. It gives you an idea of how it sounds and shows what I am doing to try to start it.
youtu.be/xCCDwVSBzqg
I took the shroud off and flywheel cover. I visually inspected the flywheel key ONLY from the top without removing the flywheel. It looks ok from the top, I think. Should I take it apart and inspect the whole key anyway? Could there be damage below that I can't see? I kind of assumed that if it sheared, I would see it from the top.
Here is a picture of the top of the flywheel key.
I used a spark tester by removing the spark plug and connecting the tester to the plug hole in the engine and the plug wire. The tester shows consistent repetitive flashes during cranking. That is apparently normal operation. I replaced the spark plug as well, just in case, and did an arch test. It arched/sparked ok. Still no change in cranking/starting with the new plug.
I charged the battery with a charger and no improvement. Battery shows charged and cranking is the same.
I tried spraying carburetor fluid into the air intake and cranking. Still no change and won't start. No combustion.
Today I am going to take the spark plug out and see if compression blows my finger off the hole (as instructed by a mower technician). I am also going to detach the fuel line from the incoming side of the fuel filter to test for fuel flow. Then test on the opposite side of the filter to see if the filter is plugged.
Can anyone think of anything else that I should try after those things or have any advice? Thanks!
Bare with me... this is my first experience working on a riding mower.
I made this video to try to get some help when it first happened. It gives you an idea of how it sounds and shows what I am doing to try to start it.
youtu.be/xCCDwVSBzqg
I took the shroud off and flywheel cover. I visually inspected the flywheel key ONLY from the top without removing the flywheel. It looks ok from the top, I think. Should I take it apart and inspect the whole key anyway? Could there be damage below that I can't see? I kind of assumed that if it sheared, I would see it from the top.
Here is a picture of the top of the flywheel key.
I used a spark tester by removing the spark plug and connecting the tester to the plug hole in the engine and the plug wire. The tester shows consistent repetitive flashes during cranking. That is apparently normal operation. I replaced the spark plug as well, just in case, and did an arch test. It arched/sparked ok. Still no change in cranking/starting with the new plug.
I charged the battery with a charger and no improvement. Battery shows charged and cranking is the same.
I tried spraying carburetor fluid into the air intake and cranking. Still no change and won't start. No combustion.
Today I am going to take the spark plug out and see if compression blows my finger off the hole (as instructed by a mower technician). I am also going to detach the fuel line from the incoming side of the fuel filter to test for fuel flow. Then test on the opposite side of the filter to see if the filter is plugged.
Can anyone think of anything else that I should try after those things or have any advice? Thanks!
#2
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I forgot to mention this other problem I am having with this mower. When it broke down, we tried to put it in neutral and push it to the garage. We stopped one time on the way to the garage (mower was rolling along fine) to try starting one more time. It of course would not start. I disengaged the brake and now they are locked up. So on top of it not starting, we cannot roll it anywhere in neutral. I have tried shifting the gears and engaging/disengaging the pedal brake and parking brake lever (nothing). I tried doing those things while rocking the mower to try to dislodge it. No luck. I need help with this too. Any suggestions here?
#3
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
One more thing... I just saw someone else mention this in another thread. I did notice that the mower ignition key was bent when I pulled it out. I thought maybe my husband had accidentally bent it some other time. Is it possible that hitting the stump could have bent the key? And is that any indication of the problem I am having starting it? I bent the key back to straight by hand, of course, before using it again.
#4
NorthBama
NorthBama
You are on the correct path by checking the spark and compression. watching the video the engine seems to be turning fast as no compression so check for compression. When the key shears it changes the timing so it will not start. As for the brake not releasing i will look for a video and post it. I am not a professional repair person but i have worked on many.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfXuw4zy-Bw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfXuw4zy-Bw
#5
EngineMan
EngineMan
I would remove the flywheel and recheck the key, on the photo it looks a little off to me, if that's ok then there maybe some damage inside the engine, from reading your lines seems if timing is out....!
#6
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
Like others said look at flywheel key. Plus pull spark plug out stick long screw driver in the hole turn over by hand by using the flywheel cover see if piston moves the screw driver. Next I would pull the valve cover off and look at the intake rod and make sure it's not bent or broken. Prob find your problem lies there.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Pull the rocker cover off .
It will be easier if you take the hood off first and buy a new rocker cover gasket as if there is one fitted it will brake and if not you will need to clean all the silicon off and fit a gasket in any case.
Rotate the engine by hand and watch the two rockers.
they should go in & out as the piston moves.
If one is not moving then the pushrod behind it is bent, broken or fallen off.
It is an old mower so if it has net been service properly then good chance the valve lash was too big and that will allow the pushrod to fall off when the engine is stopped abruptly.
As for the slack belt, that is normal in the blades off position and it should go tight when you turn the blades on.
As for hard to push, jack up the mower from the rear and try to turn the wheels.
If they go in opposite direction then the brake is jambed on.
Put a stand under the right side of the tranny and remove the right wheel.
You will see the brake in front of you .
Get some one to work the brake pedal a few times to see if it is fouling on something.
If not remove the 2 small bolts on either side of the brake caliper and pull it off.
Do this on concrete, not on the lawn so you don't loose any parts
Go to the craftsman / Sears web site and print out the brake parts diagram.
It will be easier if you take the hood off first and buy a new rocker cover gasket as if there is one fitted it will brake and if not you will need to clean all the silicon off and fit a gasket in any case.
Rotate the engine by hand and watch the two rockers.
they should go in & out as the piston moves.
If one is not moving then the pushrod behind it is bent, broken or fallen off.
It is an old mower so if it has net been service properly then good chance the valve lash was too big and that will allow the pushrod to fall off when the engine is stopped abruptly.
As for the slack belt, that is normal in the blades off position and it should go tight when you turn the blades on.
As for hard to push, jack up the mower from the rear and try to turn the wheels.
If they go in opposite direction then the brake is jambed on.
Put a stand under the right side of the tranny and remove the right wheel.
You will see the brake in front of you .
Get some one to work the brake pedal a few times to see if it is fouling on something.
If not remove the 2 small bolts on either side of the brake caliper and pull it off.
Do this on concrete, not on the lawn so you don't loose any parts
Go to the craftsman / Sears web site and print out the brake parts diagram.
#8
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks, everyone! We were quite busy today, so we did not get to do any troubleshooting. We may have rain over the next few days. If it stays clear long enough tomorrow, I will try more and let you know what the results are.
#9
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
Also if the brake had different sets for the speed control move it all the up if not already. Sometimes they go from park to like seven or so see that is all the way to seven then try. Since your pto is not electric it has a idler pulley that is pulled when you put the lever down into mow and it pulls the belt tight to turn and just opp for when you take it out of mow. If you apply it and it takes a bit to start or squealing might be time for a new belt.
#10
B
blackchevy3de
B
blackchevy3de
It sounds like you have little to no compression by your video, pull the valve cover off and im thinking you will find, a bent of broken push rod or rocker arm.ps let me know what you findHello! I have a Craftsman LT2000 with a 19.5hp B&S engine. It was running great while I was mowing and then I hit a tree stump that my husband had cut down a while back. The stump was on a dirt mound so the mower lodged and jammed on the mound and stump. It came to an immediate halt. The mower shuddered slightly, died and a smal puff of black smoke came out of the engine. I immediately smelled a strong fuel odor that lasted for several minutes. I put all controls back into their off/disengaged position, pulled the mower off the stump and inspected the deck and blade. I did not remove the deck or blade. Just checked as it was. The blade(s) rotated ok. Deck looks ok. Belt is intact and ok. Checked inside the engine because of fuel smell. Fuel still holding in the tank ok. So I tried to restart it. It cranks, but it sounds "smoother/easier" as if something that it used to do is not happening anymore. It used to sound more "gutteral". Sorry, I am not sure how to explain the sound. It does not sound bad, just different. So it just cranks and cranks and nothing happens. It did backfire once while trying to start it.
Bare with me... this is my first experience working on a riding mower.
I made this video to try to get some help when it first happened. It gives you an idea of how it sounds and shows what I am doing to try to start it.
youtu.be/xCCDwVSBzqg
I took the shroud off and flywheel cover. I visually inspected the flywheel key ONLY from the top without removing the flywheel. It looks ok from the top, I think. Should I take it apart and inspect the whole key anyway? Could there be damage below that I can't see? I kind of assumed that if it sheared, I would see it from the top.
Here is a picture of the top of the flywheel key.
View attachment 36266
I used a spark tester by removing the spark plug and connecting the tester to the plug hole in the engine and the plug wire. The tester shows consistent repetitive flashes during cranking. That is apparently normal operation. I replaced the spark plug as well, just in case, and did an arch test. It arched/sparked ok. Still no change in cranking/starting with the new plug.
I charged the battery with a charger and no improvement. Battery shows charged and cranking is the same.
I tried spraying carburetor fluid into the air intake and cranking. Still no change and won't start. No combustion.
Today I am going to take the spark plug out and see if compression blows my finger off the hole (as instructed by a mower technician). I am also going to detach the fuel line from the incoming side of the fuel filter to test for fuel flow. Then test on the opposite side of the filter to see if the filter is plugged.
Can anyone think of anything else that I should try after those things or have any advice? Thanks!
#11
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks again, everyone! It has been raining and now snowing and I have the mower stuck under a tarp. I will let you know as soon as I am able to get back out there and continue troubleshooting.
#12
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
This mower was originally my dads. He had bypassed the brake and seat safety switches that tell the mower to shut down by inserting jumpers into the wire clips (female end). He did that a long time ago because any bump or lifting on the seat would cause the safety to trigger and kill the mower. I inspected those jumpers and they are still intact and look ok. He suggested that maybe I reconnect these safety wires in case they are causing the no-start problem. Could that be a possibility? I thought that if those safety features were triggered, the mower would not crank at all. Am I correct in that assumption? The jumpers have always worked and never caused a problem.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
You are barking up the wrong tree.
If you are getting a spark, and the engine is cranking all of the safety switches or switch bypasses are in order.
Thus you are left with 2 or 3 possibilities
1) spark at wrong time
2) fuel solenoid not opening
3) valve problem
forcing the engine to stop abruptly will not cause a problem for the shut off solenoid and you can sort of test it by turning the ignition on and off ( do not crank the engine )
You should be able to hear the little click from near the carb or put your finger on the carb solenoid and feel it energising.
Now 1 & 3 can both be caused by an abrupt stop.
You have already eliminated ( partially ) number 1 by a visual check of the key way slots. If they formed a perfect square then the key should be intact.
This leaves you with No 3
Back in reply # 7 you were given instructions on how to do it and again in post # 10 you were advised to check it again.
While waiting for the weather to clear pop over to You tube and search for pushrod replacements and valve lash adjustments .
Suggest you search on the Donnyboy73 and Taryl fixes all channels as you can trust their videos
If you are getting a spark, and the engine is cranking all of the safety switches or switch bypasses are in order.
Thus you are left with 2 or 3 possibilities
1) spark at wrong time
2) fuel solenoid not opening
3) valve problem
forcing the engine to stop abruptly will not cause a problem for the shut off solenoid and you can sort of test it by turning the ignition on and off ( do not crank the engine )
You should be able to hear the little click from near the carb or put your finger on the carb solenoid and feel it energising.
Now 1 & 3 can both be caused by an abrupt stop.
You have already eliminated ( partially ) number 1 by a visual check of the key way slots. If they formed a perfect square then the key should be intact.
This leaves you with No 3
Back in reply # 7 you were given instructions on how to do it and again in post # 10 you were advised to check it again.
While waiting for the weather to clear pop over to You tube and search for pushrod replacements and valve lash adjustments .
Suggest you search on the Donnyboy73 and Taryl fixes all channels as you can trust their videos
#14
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Ok.... I went out to do more troubleshooting today. I first tried spraying carburetor fuel into the intake at the same time as turning the ignition. This was recommended to me by a mechanic. The first time I did it, I sprayed and then turned the ignition. He said I needed to spray while turning the ignition.
When I tried to do that, I realized the battery was dead. I think the freezing temps out in the yard killed it. Since I had just charged it recently, I tested it with the voltage meter. Battery was not holding a charge after using the battery charger and a single cranked depleted it quickly. So, I bought a new battery and installed it. Cranking smooth again, but still won't start.
I tried the carburetor fuel again in the intake while turning ignition. Still no combustion. No change at all while doing that.
Here is an updated video with the new battery. Sounds pretty much like the first video, but stronger cranking.
https://youtu.be/DZ1XuUomj-4
I was checking out the valve cover and getting ready to take it off. As someone else said, they used sealant around the edges, so I will have to get more sealant and a new gasket as advised. I don't want to break that open until I get that. Can anyone tell me what type of sealant that is? I did watch some videos and now believe I know what the push rods are. I will check things out in there.
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
When I tried to do that, I realized the battery was dead. I think the freezing temps out in the yard killed it. Since I had just charged it recently, I tested it with the voltage meter. Battery was not holding a charge after using the battery charger and a single cranked depleted it quickly. So, I bought a new battery and installed it. Cranking smooth again, but still won't start.
I tried the carburetor fuel again in the intake while turning ignition. Still no combustion. No change at all while doing that.
Here is an updated video with the new battery. Sounds pretty much like the first video, but stronger cranking.
https://youtu.be/DZ1XuUomj-4
I was checking out the valve cover and getting ready to take it off. As someone else said, they used sealant around the edges, so I will have to get more sealant and a new gasket as advised. I don't want to break that open until I get that. Can anyone tell me what type of sealant that is? I did watch some videos and now believe I know what the push rods are. I will check things out in there.
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
#17
B
bertsmobile1
Take the wheel off, pull the brake apart, and clean it.
There are 2 little pins in there that are prone to rusting so a jambing brake will be an ongoing problem.
Do not touch the centre bolt, that is for adjusting the brake, just the 2 small ones either side
On the caliper side will be a brake pad, a spacer/ shim and 2 sliding pins ( these are what applies the brake )
On the gearbox side will be just the pad which may or may not have a shim behind it.
While the wheel is off, clean the rust off the axel and apply some grease thinly ( I use marine grease ).
Both wheels should come off every few years to stop them rusting on.
B
bertsmobile1
On the plus side, I got the brake to unlock. I used a wrench to tap on the caliper and the bar that activates the caliper. It released and we were able to push the mower into the garage.
Take the wheel off, pull the brake apart, and clean it.
There are 2 little pins in there that are prone to rusting so a jambing brake will be an ongoing problem.
Do not touch the centre bolt, that is for adjusting the brake, just the 2 small ones either side
On the caliper side will be a brake pad, a spacer/ shim and 2 sliding pins ( these are what applies the brake )
On the gearbox side will be just the pad which may or may not have a shim behind it.
While the wheel is off, clean the rust off the axel and apply some grease thinly ( I use marine grease ).
Both wheels should come off every few years to stop them rusting on.
#18
A
AFProdigy
I watched a video of someone taking the caliper off. It looks quite similar to automotive brakes (which I have changed many times), but a bit different. It all makes sense. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one break on one side of the axle? I looked underneath (without lifting it) and it looked like there was only one caliper/brake that stops the whole thing.
A
AFProdigy
Take the wheel off, pull the brake apart, and clean it.
There are 2 little pins in there that are prone to rusting so a jambing brake will be an ongoing problem.
Do not touch the centre bolt, that is for adjusting the brake, just the 2 small ones either side
On the caliper side will be a brake pad, a spacer/ shim and 2 sliding pins ( these are what applies the brake )
On the gearbox side will be just the pad which may or may not have a shim behind it.
While the wheel is off, clean the rust off the axel and apply some grease thinly ( I use marine grease ).
Both wheels should come off every few years to stop them rusting on.
I watched a video of someone taking the caliper off. It looks quite similar to automotive brakes (which I have changed many times), but a bit different. It all makes sense. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one break on one side of the axle? I looked underneath (without lifting it) and it looked like there was only one caliper/brake that stops the whole thing.
#20
B
bertsmobile1
The brake is on the lay shaft as per reply no # 7.
It is not on the axel so yes there is only 1 per mower although some parts break downs show 2 because some are fitted left side & others are shown right side.
No piston the lever has a crease making it V shaped and the sides of the V push against the brake pads all 1/2" x 1/4" of them.
B
bertsmobile1
I watched a video of someone taking the caliper off. It looks quite similar to automotive brakes (which I have changed many times), but a bit different. It all makes sense. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one break on one side of the axle? I looked underneath (without lifting it) and it looked like there was only one caliper/brake that stops the whole thing.
The brake is on the lay shaft as per reply no # 7.
It is not on the axel so yes there is only 1 per mower although some parts break downs show 2 because some are fitted left side & others are shown right side.
No piston the lever has a crease making it V shaped and the sides of the V push against the brake pads all 1/2" x 1/4" of them.
#21
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I am back! We are in the middle of selling our house, so I have been pretty busy.
I managed to get the brakes unlocked by tapping on the components with a wrench. Then pushed it up into the garage.
I removed the valve cover and to my dismay, both valves are stuck open. No play whatsoever in any part of those components. I tried rotating the flywheel (which is stiff) and there is no moving at all in the valves. I tried moving the valves by hand, but they will not budge. I removed the spark plug, rotated the flywheel, and see that the piston is moving inside properly. Removing the spark plug and releasing compression made no change in the valves either. I do not see anything in the valve assembly that look broken or detached. The push rods are in position and intact.
Two people locally said on the phone that it is likely a broken/damaged camshaft and that it would be more cost effective to buy a new engine. I wanted to check with all of you first to see if maybe there are some things I can check before I throw in the towel. I have not removed any part of the valve assembly (I hope that terminology is ok) yet. Any ideas?
I managed to get the brakes unlocked by tapping on the components with a wrench. Then pushed it up into the garage.
I removed the valve cover and to my dismay, both valves are stuck open. No play whatsoever in any part of those components. I tried rotating the flywheel (which is stiff) and there is no moving at all in the valves. I tried moving the valves by hand, but they will not budge. I removed the spark plug, rotated the flywheel, and see that the piston is moving inside properly. Removing the spark plug and releasing compression made no change in the valves either. I do not see anything in the valve assembly that look broken or detached. The push rods are in position and intact.
Two people locally said on the phone that it is likely a broken/damaged camshaft and that it would be more cost effective to buy a new engine. I wanted to check with all of you first to see if maybe there are some things I can check before I throw in the towel. I have not removed any part of the valve assembly (I hope that terminology is ok) yet. Any ideas?
#22
EngineMan
EngineMan
It is quite possible that you have damaged the gear on the camshaft, only way to tell is for you or someone to take it apart and have a look...!
#23
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I am poking around a little more. I removed the pushrods and they appear to be straight and undamaged. With the outer components off, I was able to push a little better on the valves. They actually do move slightly, but they are stiff/spongy feeling. They do not move easily. What is normal? The stiff spongy feeling or should it move more freely? I thought they didn't move at all before because I was not pushing hard enough.
Would there be any benefit to remove the head and have a look in there, based on my troubleshooting thus far?
If the problem is, in fact, something related to the cam, do I have to remove the entire engine from the mower to get to it? Or can it be worked on in place? I have been looking for videos and can't find any that begin from the very beginning. Everything I am finding shows people working on engines they have already completely removed and disassembled.
Some direction would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Would there be any benefit to remove the head and have a look in there, based on my troubleshooting thus far?
If the problem is, in fact, something related to the cam, do I have to remove the entire engine from the mower to get to it? Or can it be worked on in place? I have been looking for videos and can't find any that begin from the very beginning. Everything I am finding shows people working on engines they have already completely removed and disassembled.
Some direction would be much appreciated. Thanks!
#24
EngineMan
EngineMan
Unfortunately you will have to remove the engine. we will need the engine number and type to be able to help you out, I don't see it in any of the post, unless am missing out somewhere.
#25
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Once the push rods are out of the equation the valves will be able to move by pushing with your fingers.... They will be a lil hard to press since they have springs......
Tes you need to take the engine off the mower and the main pulley has to come off... If you do all that work you are almost halfway there.. The cam is easily changed and only the sump cover has to come off......
Now if the crank is toast then a new engine is the way to go.... Wish you were in my area.....
Tes you need to take the engine off the mower and the main pulley has to come off... If you do all that work you are almost halfway there.. The cam is easily changed and only the sump cover has to come off......
Now if the crank is toast then a new engine is the way to go.... Wish you were in my area.....
#26
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks for the info. I am not sure why I had assumed the valves would be easier to push. Makes sense that they would be resistant. Oops.
31P677-0912-G5 Briggs and Stratton
Other than sockets, ratchets, wrenches and parts/gaskets... do I need any special tools? I do not have an impact wrench.
If I have everything I need and move efficiently, this shouldn't take more than a few days to take it apart and replace the crankshaft or gear (if necessary)?
Should I put the valve assembly back together and the valve cover on before taking out/opening the engine? Or should I leave the valve cover off for further testing while taking the engine out?
Does anyone know of a good video for removing the engine from the mower and then opening it up to get to the camshaft? I have always been somewhat mechanically inclined and am sure I can use common sense to remove the engine. But I know there can sometimes be things you should or shouldn't do to make the process easier or avoid problems.
31P677-0912-G5 Briggs and Stratton
Other than sockets, ratchets, wrenches and parts/gaskets... do I need any special tools? I do not have an impact wrench.
If I have everything I need and move efficiently, this shouldn't take more than a few days to take it apart and replace the crankshaft or gear (if necessary)?
Should I put the valve assembly back together and the valve cover on before taking out/opening the engine? Or should I leave the valve cover off for further testing while taking the engine out?
Does anyone know of a good video for removing the engine from the mower and then opening it up to get to the camshaft? I have always been somewhat mechanically inclined and am sure I can use common sense to remove the engine. But I know there can sometimes be things you should or shouldn't do to make the process easier or avoid problems.
#27
B
bertsmobile1
Time to get the popcorn and a note pad.
the tool you have omitted is a camera and by prefference a real digital camera not your phone.
Take a photo of what you are about to remove before you take it off then from the same position after you take it off.
Thus you can just work through them backwards when it comes to putting it back together.
Only really hard thing to shift will e the flywheel bolt ( you have done that already and the PTO bolt on the pulley )
The only people I recommend on the web are :-
Donny boyhttps://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=donny+boy+73
Taryl https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=taryl+fixes+all
THe downside is they both have very big channels so you will have to search through a lot of videos to find what you need.
Both of them are professional mechanics so everything they show you actually works and nothing they do will or can damage the mower in order to save a few minutes.
B
bertsmobile1
Thanks for the info. I am not sure why I had assumed the valves would be easier to push. Makes sense that they would be resistant. Oops.
31P677-0912-G5 Briggs and Stratton
Other than sockets, ratchets, wrenches and parts/gaskets... do I need any special tools? I do not have an impact wrench.
If I have everything I need and move efficiently, this shouldn't take more than a few days to take it apart and replace the crankshaft or gear (if necessary)?
Should I put the valve assembly back together and the valve cover on before taking out/opening the engine? Or should I leave the valve cover off for further testing while taking the engine out?
Does anyone know of a good video for removing the engine from the mower and then opening it up to get to the camshaft? I have always been somewhat mechanically inclined and am sure I can use common sense to remove the engine. But I know there can sometimes be things you should or shouldn't do to make the process easier or avoid problems.
Time to get the popcorn and a note pad.
the tool you have omitted is a camera and by prefference a real digital camera not your phone.
Take a photo of what you are about to remove before you take it off then from the same position after you take it off.
Thus you can just work through them backwards when it comes to putting it back together.
Only really hard thing to shift will e the flywheel bolt ( you have done that already and the PTO bolt on the pulley )
The only people I recommend on the web are :-
Donny boyhttps://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=donny+boy+73
Taryl https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=taryl+fixes+all
THe downside is they both have very big channels so you will have to search through a lot of videos to find what you need.
Both of them are professional mechanics so everything they show you actually works and nothing they do will or can damage the mower in order to save a few minutes.
#28
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks! I had actually been watching Taryl's videos for a good part of the day. Very helpful. I found some others too, but his are definitely straight forward. This really does not look overly complicated. Hopefully all I need to do is replace the camshaft and then can move on with the joys of mowing. Fingers crossed there are no horrors yet to be discovered in there. Ha!
I will let you all know how it goes.
I will let you all know how it goes.
#29
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Do I have to remove the whole intake manifold? It looks like the throttle control cable is connected over there. I am not sure how that cable disconnects.
Does anyone know what size star (t) bit is needed to remove the exhaust from the front of the mower/engine? I have a bunch of those, but they are too small. I can't find a diagram for that specific thing.
The bolt that holds the belt wheel on under the engine should rotate counter clockwise to remove, correct? Do I need to know anything special before wrenching on that? I was going to put nylon rope into the spark plug hole to brace everything from rotating.
Does anyone know what size star (t) bit is needed to remove the exhaust from the front of the mower/engine? I have a bunch of those, but they are too small. I can't find a diagram for that specific thing.
The bolt that holds the belt wheel on under the engine should rotate counter clockwise to remove, correct? Do I need to know anything special before wrenching on that? I was going to put nylon rope into the spark plug hole to brace everything from rotating.
#30
A
AFProdigy
You mention the flywheel bolt. Does the flywheel need to be removed for me to look at/replace the camshaft? I don't see anyone doing anything with that in any of the videos about replacing camshafts.
A
AFProdigy
Time to get the popcorn and a note pad.
the tool you have omitted is a camera and by prefference a real digital camera not your phone.
Take a photo of what you are about to remove before you take it off then from the same position after you take it off.
Thus you can just work through them backwards when it comes to putting it back together.
Only really hard thing to shift will e the flywheel bolt ( you have done that already and the PTO bolt on the pulley )
The only people I recommend on the web are :-
Donny boyhttps://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=donny+boy+73
Taryl https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=taryl+fixes+all
THe downside is they both have very big channels so you will have to search through a lot of videos to find what you need.
Both of them are professional mechanics so everything they show you actually works and nothing they do will or can damage the mower in order to save a few minutes.
You mention the flywheel bolt. Does the flywheel need to be removed for me to look at/replace the camshaft? I don't see anyone doing anything with that in any of the videos about replacing camshafts.
#31
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
No AF the flywheel can stay on..... Only the sump cover needs to come off to check every thing.........
Undo the 2 bolts holding the intake manifold on and a flip of the wrist will take the rod and spring off..... Take a pic of that where it goes to the control area.......
You will need to take the cable or cables off for the throttle and choke..... Mark with a sharpie on the cable where it goes in the clamp..... Both if needed...
Engine will come out with nothing attached like that..... Assuming you have the gas lines off........
I think I forgot to say something, but I think we got you on the right track ~!~!
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
Undo the 2 bolts holding the intake manifold on and a flip of the wrist will take the rod and spring off..... Take a pic of that where it goes to the control area.......
You will need to take the cable or cables off for the throttle and choke..... Mark with a sharpie on the cable where it goes in the clamp..... Both if needed...
Engine will come out with nothing attached like that..... Assuming you have the gas lines off........
I think I forgot to say something, but I think we got you on the right track ~!~!
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
#32
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
Check your flywheel key because if your turning the flywheel and it is just spinning on the crankshaft prob causes your issues. To work on the camshaft don't have to pull the flywheel but do need to check the flywheel key.
#33
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Oops I did forget something.......... T30 on the exhaust bolts....
And a torque wrench for the sump bolts and the head bolts........
I seen the picture on POST #1 and your flywheel key is intact......
Luffy Dog mentioned that in the post before this one at 9:22 PM .....
And a torque wrench for the sump bolts and the head bolts........
I seen the picture on POST #1 and your flywheel key is intact......
Luffy Dog mentioned that in the post before this one at 9:22 PM .....
#34
EngineMan
EngineMan
If there is any damaged on the camshaft gear pic 46 is what you are looking for, just take your time, make notes and take photos.
Attachments
#35
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks, everyone! You are all wonderful! I really appreciate your help!
I got as far as disconnecting an electrical harness and fuel line last night. It was pretty late when I got around to it. The bolt that holds on the belt guide is on there real tight. I want to make sure it is ok to be wrenching on that real hard. Anything I need to worry about with that? I don't want to accidentally break or bend anything. I have to go get that T30 bit today.
Yes, I did check the flywheel key already. One of the first things I checked.
I am taking lots of pictures and video as I go. :wink:
I got as far as disconnecting an electrical harness and fuel line last night. It was pretty late when I got around to it. The bolt that holds on the belt guide is on there real tight. I want to make sure it is ok to be wrenching on that real hard. Anything I need to worry about with that? I don't want to accidentally break or bend anything. I have to go get that T30 bit today.
Yes, I did check the flywheel key already. One of the first things I checked.
I am taking lots of pictures and video as I go. :wink:
#36
EngineMan
EngineMan
Give the bolt (nut) some WD40 use a good socket set and a long bar....it will come.
#37
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
The exhaust removal required a T45 star bit. But the initial advise for a T30 was a good starting point and helped me quickly figure out it was a T45. :wink:
I got the belt bolt off and everything else. Engine is out and up on my work bench.
On to the intense stuff... fingers crossed!
I got the belt bolt off and everything else. Engine is out and up on my work bench.
On to the intense stuff... fingers crossed!
#38
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
The verdict is in...
The spring loaded arm on the camshaft and timing gear broke off. Here are some pictures I have been taking:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ykv_i3lY8EdsxUb1V-03SuKnyTpHQAiW?usp=sharing
What is the best way to clean out the engine compartment to make sure there is no metal debris in there?
Do you guys torque the bolts on the crank case with a torque wrench to spec, or do you just put them on tight with a regular socket wrench?
Also, it looks like they had some red loctite on the oil plug. Should I put the blue loctite on it or leave it as is?
Just to confirm, this should be all I need to put it all back together?
Loctite 37566 Silver-Grade Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 lb (Brushtop) by Loctite
Briggs & Stratton 30W Engine Oil - 48 Oz. 100028
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single
Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz.
Performance Tool W80528 26 Blade Standard Feeler Gauge
Briggs & Stratton 796187 Engine Gasket Set Replaces 794150/792621/697191
Briggs & Stratton 793880 Camshaft Replaces 793583/792681/791942/795102
Briggs & Stratton # 697128 GEAR-TIMING
Briggs & Stratton 394358S Fuel Filter Assembly 75 Micron
The spring loaded arm on the camshaft and timing gear broke off. Here are some pictures I have been taking:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ykv_i3lY8EdsxUb1V-03SuKnyTpHQAiW?usp=sharing
What is the best way to clean out the engine compartment to make sure there is no metal debris in there?
Do you guys torque the bolts on the crank case with a torque wrench to spec, or do you just put them on tight with a regular socket wrench?
Also, it looks like they had some red loctite on the oil plug. Should I put the blue loctite on it or leave it as is?
Just to confirm, this should be all I need to put it all back together?
Loctite 37566 Silver-Grade Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 lb (Brushtop) by Loctite
Briggs & Stratton 30W Engine Oil - 48 Oz. 100028
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single
Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz.
Performance Tool W80528 26 Blade Standard Feeler Gauge
Briggs & Stratton 796187 Engine Gasket Set Replaces 794150/792621/697191
Briggs & Stratton 793880 Camshaft Replaces 793583/792681/791942/795102
Briggs & Stratton # 697128 GEAR-TIMING
Briggs & Stratton 394358S Fuel Filter Assembly 75 Micron
#39
EngineMan
EngineMan
I use lamp oil for cleaning (what we call here paraffin) make sure that the crankshaft woodruff key is level when you put it back...! (see one of your photos)
I think this is the right settings for that engine.....if not am sure someone here will soon say.........
Valve clearance IN .003-.005 EX .005-.007
Flywheel nut 100 ft lbs
Cylinder head 220 in lbs
Crankcase cover 180 in lbs
Air gap (armature) .010-.014
DO NOT OVER DO THE NUTS snug up the head bolts evenly and in sequence. if you don't have a torque wrench, then like you say use a socket wrench, just make sure they are down the same...!
I think this is the right settings for that engine.....if not am sure someone here will soon say.........
Valve clearance IN .003-.005 EX .005-.007
Flywheel nut 100 ft lbs
Cylinder head 220 in lbs
Crankcase cover 180 in lbs
Air gap (armature) .010-.014
DO NOT OVER DO THE NUTS snug up the head bolts evenly and in sequence. if you don't have a torque wrench, then like you say use a socket wrench, just make sure they are down the same...!
#40
A
AFProdigy
Thanks! I saw someone mention mineral spirits and also brake cleaner for cleaning. Is that ok too? I do have brake cleaner.
I found the crankshaft woodruff key you mentioned. It feels very slightly scratched on the side and is wedged in that slot pretty good. Should I order a new one or just get that one back in? It seems wedged in there sort of tight. What is the best method for getting it back in (and removing if need be)?
A
AFProdigy
I use lamp oil for cleaning (what we call here paraffin) make sure that the crankshaft woodruff key is level when you put it back...! (see one of your photos)
I think this is the right settings for that engine.....if not am sure someone here will soon say.........
Valve clearance IN .003-.005 EX .005-.007
Flywheel nut 100 ft lbs
Cylinder head 220 in lbs
Crankcase cover 180 in lbs
Air gap (armature) .010-.014
DO NOT OVER DO THE NUTS snug up the head bolts evenly and in sequence. if you don't have a torque wrench, then like you say use a socket wrench, just make sure they are down the same...!
Thanks! I saw someone mention mineral spirits and also brake cleaner for cleaning. Is that ok too? I do have brake cleaner.
I found the crankshaft woodruff key you mentioned. It feels very slightly scratched on the side and is wedged in that slot pretty good. Should I order a new one or just get that one back in? It seems wedged in there sort of tight. What is the best method for getting it back in (and removing if need be)?
#41
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Well, other than hitting the stump that broke this in the first place... I just made my first mistake...
The wire connector that runs from the ignition to the engine got a little bit of motor oil in it. Any way to get that out and salvage that or do I have to replace the entire connector? :frown:
The wire connector that runs from the ignition to the engine got a little bit of motor oil in it. Any way to get that out and salvage that or do I have to replace the entire connector? :frown:
#42
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I found this too. Looks helpful...
http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine Specifications Chart_ms3992.pdf
Mine would be the OHV SINGLE CYLINDER 31000, correct?
http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine Specifications Chart_ms3992.pdf
Mine would be the OHV SINGLE CYLINDER 31000, correct?
#43
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
the chart is helpful but just be aware that several of the specs on that chart have been updated over the last 14 years. Also some of the engines have been superceded to a new sump gasket material with a different torque spec than what is in the service manual, so pay attention to any insert sheets that may update what is prior listed.
#44
EngineMan
Going by the photo the wedge looks if its going up towards the back end, try and tap it back down it should be same level, has for cleaning spirits should be ok, but brake cleaner is a no no for me..!
EngineMan
Thanks! I saw someone mention mineral spirits and also brake cleaner for cleaning. Is that ok too? I do have brake cleaner.
I found the crankshaft woodruff key you mentioned. It feels very slightly scratched on the side and is wedged in that slot pretty good. Should I order a new one or just get that one back in? It seems wedged in there sort of tight. What is the best method for getting it back in (and removing if need be)?
Going by the photo the wedge looks if its going up towards the back end, try and tap it back down it should be same level, has for cleaning spirits should be ok, but brake cleaner is a no no for me..!
#45
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Good to know!
I went ahead and ordered everything, plus a new Woodruff key. Thank goodness for Amazon Prime and their super fast delivery! Should all be here by 4/3 or 4/4.
I went ahead and ordered everything, plus a new Woodruff key. Thank goodness for Amazon Prime and their super fast delivery! Should all be here by 4/3 or 4/4.
#46
EngineMan
No just clean it you can use WD40 if you have it...!
EngineMan
Well, other than hitting the stump that broke this in the first place... I just made my first mistake...
The wire connector that runs from the ignition to the engine got a little bit of motor oil in it. Any way to get that out and salvage that or do I have to replace the entire connector? :frown:
No just clean it you can use WD40 if you have it...!
#47
EngineMan
That is the chart that I have..! and which the info I posted up for you......
EngineMan
I found this too. Looks helpful...
http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine Specifications Chart_ms3992.pdf
Mine would be the OHV SINGLE CYLINDER 31000, correct?
That is the chart that I have..! and which the info I posted up for you......
#48
EngineMan
EngineMan
Like Ilengine says in post 43, just be careful and don't over do things...! you shouldn't have any problems fitting new seals and gaskets if you clean it all down first....be happy with it before you go on to the next step.
#49
A
AFProdigy
Great! I have several cans of that!
A
AFProdigy
No just clean it you can use WD40 if you have it...!
Great! I have several cans of that!
#50
A
AFProdigy
I did order an inch/lb torque wrench. I already had one for ft/lb. I will do it to spec, just to be sure. Me being a woman with somewhat weak arms and a poor judge of how much is too much, better safe than sorry.
A
AFProdigy
Like Ilengine says in post 43, just be careful and don't over do things...! you shouldn't have any problems fitting new seals and gaskets if you clean it all down first....be happy with it before you go on to the next step.
I did order an inch/lb torque wrench. I already had one for ft/lb. I will do it to spec, just to be sure. Me being a woman with somewhat weak arms and a poor judge of how much is too much, better safe than sorry.
#51
Barebuttminer
Barebuttminer
AFProdigy;
Don’t use brake cleaner to clean internal engine parts. Use a low flash point solvent such as kerosene (lamp oil) or diesel fuel. WD40 is good but it is expensive.
Don’t forget to time the camshaft to the crankshaft, and then recheck it before you close up the case.
BBM
Don’t use brake cleaner to clean internal engine parts. Use a low flash point solvent such as kerosene (lamp oil) or diesel fuel. WD40 is good but it is expensive.
Don’t forget to time the camshaft to the crankshaft, and then recheck it before you close up the case.
BBM
#52
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks, everyone!
Am I supposed to put loctite on the oil drain plug? It looks like there was red on there before. Maybe put some blue on? Or none at all?
Am I supposed to put loctite on the oil drain plug? It looks like there was red on there before. Maybe put some blue on? Or none at all?
#53
Boobala
The "red-stuff" is called "thread-seal"... it is NOT loc-tite I found mine at hardware store.
Boobala
Thanks, everyone!
Am I supposed to put loctite on the oil drain plug? It looks like there was red on there before. Maybe put some blue on? Or none at all?
The "red-stuff" is called "thread-seal"... it is NOT loc-tite I found mine at hardware store.
#54
EngineMan
EngineMan
Blue will be fine, there should be a seal (O-ring) on the bottom of the tube. "loctite is to prevent the bolt or screw from coming apart from vibration"
#55
mhavanti
mhavanti
AF,
Watch this particular Daryl Fixes All video on camshaft replacement for a B&S engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4
Good luck and have fun.
Max
Watch this particular Daryl Fixes All video on camshaft replacement for a B&S engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4
Good luck and have fun.
Max
#56
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Thanks again, everyone!
That video by Taryl is actually what I have been using since the beginning of tearing the engine apart. It is a great video. Very easy to follow... and amusing. I commented on it the other day (Amla General Contracting).
I just got part of my Amazon order. Should get the the rest tomorrow.
What do you guys recommend for removal of the old gasket? I have heard razor blades and I have seen one guy use a grinder. I would think a grinder could do some damage to the metal?
That video by Taryl is actually what I have been using since the beginning of tearing the engine apart. It is a great video. Very easy to follow... and amusing. I commented on it the other day (Amla General Contracting).
I just got part of my Amazon order. Should get the the rest tomorrow.
What do you guys recommend for removal of the old gasket? I have heard razor blades and I have seen one guy use a grinder. I would think a grinder could do some damage to the metal?
#57
Russ2251
Russ2251
Paint remover and small brush or even a Q-Tip works for me...especially if stubborn. Just stay away from plastic or rubber parts. Will be clean down to bare metal.What do you guys recommend for removal of the old gasket?
#58
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
I get gaskets off with a gasket scraper, then if any is a bugger to scrape off then I hit it with a BRASS wire wheel... Looks like a shiny nickel.....
#60
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Yep that works GREAT as Tony the Tiger says ~!~!
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Scotch brite pads on the Dremel Tool
Yep that works GREAT as Tony the Tiger says ~!~!
#62
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Hi, friends! I replaced the camshaft and the timing gear. Clean everything up, put all new gaskets in, new woodruff key, new oil filter, new fuel filter. I had my husband start it up while I took video. I was admittedly nervous that it would blow up. Ha! It started right up, as you will see in this video. There was a lot of black smoke initially and that seemed to go away after a while.
There is something going on that is causing surging while on high throttle. We let it run for a bit and it seemed to get a little better. Then shut it off. Went to start it back up again and now it won't start. It smelled heavily of fuel when we tried to start it again. It cranks, but won't kick over. The second video show it.
Any ideas? Hopefully nothing broke!
First start up after rebuild...
https://youtu.be/PLwfrIsjQUE
After first start and shut down...
https://youtu.be/qLkm-duYlYc
I realize this video only shows a short crank, but it doesn't matter how long we crank it. It sounds and acts the same.
It also has a new air filter and spark plug.
There is something going on that is causing surging while on high throttle. We let it run for a bit and it seemed to get a little better. Then shut it off. Went to start it back up again and now it won't start. It smelled heavily of fuel when we tried to start it again. It cranks, but won't kick over. The second video show it.
Any ideas? Hopefully nothing broke!
First start up after rebuild...
https://youtu.be/PLwfrIsjQUE
After first start and shut down...
https://youtu.be/qLkm-duYlYc
I realize this video only shows a short crank, but it doesn't matter how long we crank it. It sounds and acts the same.
It also has a new air filter and spark plug.
#63
D
Darryl G
D
Darryl G
Good job! You must be disappointed that it won't start after the joy of getting it running again. Hopefully the guys here can help you get things sorted.
#64
A
AFProdigy
Even though it won't start again, I am still mighty proud of myself! It started right up and stayed running! Woohoo! Never worked on a mower before... just some automotive mechanic work. As long as the camshaft didn't blow up in there again, I will still be happy. Haha! Hopefully I just need to make a minor adjustment or an easy fix.
A
AFProdigy
Good job! You must be disappointed that it won't start after the joy of getting it running again. Hopefully the guys here can help you get things sorted.
Even though it won't start again, I am still mighty proud of myself! It started right up and stayed running! Woohoo! Never worked on a mower before... just some automotive mechanic work. As long as the camshaft didn't blow up in there again, I will still be happy. Haha! Hopefully I just need to make a minor adjustment or an easy fix.
#65
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
It looked to be stuck on the choke with heavy black smoke. Check your cables and adjust. The plug maybe fouled meaning it won't fire or as good. Last thing in the video I could see the carb linkage and hear it what is called hunting and surging due to and fuel issue related to the carb. Might have to pull carb off and clean replace hose and filter making sure you have a good fuel. Float prob stuck allowing the fuel to flood into the carb. Glad to hear you made it run again and making it Thur the challenge and sticking to it. Check the plugs and make sure it's firing. All ifs fail go back to the start and go Thur the flow chart of spark,fuel,compression also the rods. Just to double check your math and making sure things are ok before firing it up again check valves
#66
EngineMan
EngineMan
Too much fuel at the first start up, now it seems you have none, issuer with the fuel side,(carb maybe) check again the fuel solenoid make sure you can feel or hear it click. good to see the video well done, don't give up....you are so near to the grass...!
#67
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Good news! I figured out the problem! I had reconnected the throttle cable as it was when I took it off. I did not know I had to make adjustments to the throttle settings to get it just right. I also made a stupid mistake and installed a gasket where the carburetor attaches to the head (I think those are the correct terms) and it should have only been a red o-ring. I had both in there. So I took the unnecessary gasket out and adjusted the throttle cable. She started right up, had a little bit of hesitation in the beginning, but then ran real smooth. Like new!
https://youtu.be/4YH2olfb21w
So I tried to drive the mower and then the brake was locked up again. It took me a while to realize that the brake pedal was rubbing against the metal frame and not fully disengaging. All that fuss before when I could not get the mower to the garage was because of that. I just have to lift it up for now and it works fine.
Then I noticed a strange rubbing/grinding noise when I tried to drive. I did not drive far, thank goodness. The drive belt was sitting over a small tab/guide and rubbing. The belt was also old and had a million splits in it. So I bought a new belt today. Now I am stuck because I removed the front pulley part that connects to the cranskaft which released the belt. But I cannot figure out the best way to remove it from the pulley in the rear, under the battery compartment. It appears to be sitting under a second belt system (maybe the transmission belt???). Of course, I am unable to find a video with a mower that looks the same under that rear compartment. Anyone know the best way to remove that? I hate to remove that upper secondary belt system, if I do not have to. It is on there pretty tight. I am afraid I won't be able to get it back on.
https://youtu.be/AHAUZ5TX0uU
https://youtu.be/4YH2olfb21w
So I tried to drive the mower and then the brake was locked up again. It took me a while to realize that the brake pedal was rubbing against the metal frame and not fully disengaging. All that fuss before when I could not get the mower to the garage was because of that. I just have to lift it up for now and it works fine.
Then I noticed a strange rubbing/grinding noise when I tried to drive. I did not drive far, thank goodness. The drive belt was sitting over a small tab/guide and rubbing. The belt was also old and had a million splits in it. So I bought a new belt today. Now I am stuck because I removed the front pulley part that connects to the cranskaft which released the belt. But I cannot figure out the best way to remove it from the pulley in the rear, under the battery compartment. It appears to be sitting under a second belt system (maybe the transmission belt???). Of course, I am unable to find a video with a mower that looks the same under that rear compartment. Anyone know the best way to remove that? I hate to remove that upper secondary belt system, if I do not have to. It is on there pretty tight. I am afraid I won't be able to get it back on.
https://youtu.be/AHAUZ5TX0uU
#68
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Well done.
Keep this up and you will be able to hang a slate out front and start taking in repairs.:laughing:
Bad news is the drive belts must be replaced in pairs so you will need the short belt as well.
Very important to buy these from Cub ( original ) or a Mower (OEM exact replacements ) shop.
They are not standard belts .
All of these systems work the same , there are just some slight variations as to where the bits are and how they are held in place.
Search you tube for "Vari drive belt replacement" and flip through them till you find one that looks the same as yours.
The only really hard bit is taking the tension of the front pulley on the top belt to get the belt off.
I pull the right wheel off and use a hook to stretch the spring so I can slip the belt off, but I am a big boofy bloke.
You should be able to get some thing like a ratchet tie down on that front pulley arm and use that to stretch it .
Some tensioning arms have a small square hole in them and that is for a breaker bar or ratchet handle so you can get a pull on them.
Once you have the top belt off the front pulley, take the big pulley off and remove the top belt.
From under the mower that of course is now on stands so you can get underneath see how the double pulley is mounted.
Some are bolted on to the axle housing, some are bolted onto the frame.
Undo it enough to get the belt off the put the new one one on the bottom ( long one ) then the new one on the top and tighten the pulley back where it was before.
I find it easier to finish fitting the bottom ( long) belt first, then go back and do the top.
When you have the bottom belt on use your fingers to run the belt a full revolution or two to make sure it is on the correct side of all the keepers ( tabs ).
Then release the brake and double check the belt is running properly and not on the wrong side of anything or you will be getting more belt changing practice.
Now go back and fit the top belt around the big pulley, bolt it back up ( don't over tighten it, ) then slip the belt over the front pulley and release whatever you used to stretch the tensioning arm spring.
The mower should then be good to go.
leave it on the stands start it up and run through the ( gears ) fast slow fast slow so the belts can sort their positions out on the double pulley.
When it is up in the air have a good look at the springs and the holes they anchor in.
The springs wear through and the holes they fit into also get cut by the spring so if they look crook replace them while you are in there as you don't want to have to do it all again in the middle of the season.
Keep this up and you will be able to hang a slate out front and start taking in repairs.:laughing:
Bad news is the drive belts must be replaced in pairs so you will need the short belt as well.
Very important to buy these from Cub ( original ) or a Mower (OEM exact replacements ) shop.
They are not standard belts .
All of these systems work the same , there are just some slight variations as to where the bits are and how they are held in place.
Search you tube for "Vari drive belt replacement" and flip through them till you find one that looks the same as yours.
The only really hard bit is taking the tension of the front pulley on the top belt to get the belt off.
I pull the right wheel off and use a hook to stretch the spring so I can slip the belt off, but I am a big boofy bloke.
You should be able to get some thing like a ratchet tie down on that front pulley arm and use that to stretch it .
Some tensioning arms have a small square hole in them and that is for a breaker bar or ratchet handle so you can get a pull on them.
Once you have the top belt off the front pulley, take the big pulley off and remove the top belt.
From under the mower that of course is now on stands so you can get underneath see how the double pulley is mounted.
Some are bolted on to the axle housing, some are bolted onto the frame.
Undo it enough to get the belt off the put the new one one on the bottom ( long one ) then the new one on the top and tighten the pulley back where it was before.
I find it easier to finish fitting the bottom ( long) belt first, then go back and do the top.
When you have the bottom belt on use your fingers to run the belt a full revolution or two to make sure it is on the correct side of all the keepers ( tabs ).
Then release the brake and double check the belt is running properly and not on the wrong side of anything or you will be getting more belt changing practice.
Now go back and fit the top belt around the big pulley, bolt it back up ( don't over tighten it, ) then slip the belt over the front pulley and release whatever you used to stretch the tensioning arm spring.
The mower should then be good to go.
leave it on the stands start it up and run through the ( gears ) fast slow fast slow so the belts can sort their positions out on the double pulley.
When it is up in the air have a good look at the springs and the holes they anchor in.
The springs wear through and the holes they fit into also get cut by the spring so if they look crook replace them while you are in there as you don't want to have to do it all again in the middle of the season.
#69
A
AFProdigy
My husbands keeps saying I will be able to rebuild the entire mower soon and now he doesn't have to worry if it breaks down... I will fix it. Ha!
I will say that I am NOT a fan of cleaning off gaskets. I did not enjoy that part at all. The rest of this whole ordeal was not bad. I am quite pleased that I did not listen to everyone else telling me I would likely be better off buying a new engine.
Thanks for all the information! I did, however, go out there are start replacing the drive belt before I read this. I decided to "wing it". I managed to figure it all out on my own. I just now finished. So I was out there from about the time of my last post until now. There was some trial and error and I was stumped several times, but I am pretty confident I got it all sorted out.
The only thing I am a little concerned about (now that I read your post) is that you said the belts must be replaced in pairs. I replaced the long drive belt, but I did not replace any of the other belts. They looked ok. What will happen if I do not replace the short belt? And by "short belt" I am assuming you mean that top belt that had to be partially taken off to get to the drive belt? That one seems to be a lot easier to deal with. I could replace it if it is necessary.
I ended up tying some nylon rope around the end of that tension spring you were talking about and used it like a handle to release the spring. :wink:
Oh, and I did all of this without lifting it off the ground. I am quite dirty from crawling around on the garage floor. I don't mind it though. All worth it.
I ordered new blades for it too. They should be here tomorrow or the next day. Mine are pretty banged up.
It is pretty late here and I am sure my neighbors won't appreciate me starting up the mower, so I am going to wait until tomorrow to start it. I will let you all know what happens.
A
AFProdigy
Well done.
Keep this up and you will be able to hang a slate out front and start taking in repairs.:laughing:
Bad news is the drive belts must be replaced in pairs so you will need the short belt as well.
Very important to buy these from Cub ( original ) or a Mower (OEM exact replacements ) shop.
They are not standard belts .
All of these systems work the same , there are just some slight variations as to ...
My husbands keeps saying I will be able to rebuild the entire mower soon and now he doesn't have to worry if it breaks down... I will fix it. Ha!
I will say that I am NOT a fan of cleaning off gaskets. I did not enjoy that part at all. The rest of this whole ordeal was not bad. I am quite pleased that I did not listen to everyone else telling me I would likely be better off buying a new engine.
Thanks for all the information! I did, however, go out there are start replacing the drive belt before I read this. I decided to "wing it". I managed to figure it all out on my own. I just now finished. So I was out there from about the time of my last post until now. There was some trial and error and I was stumped several times, but I am pretty confident I got it all sorted out.
The only thing I am a little concerned about (now that I read your post) is that you said the belts must be replaced in pairs. I replaced the long drive belt, but I did not replace any of the other belts. They looked ok. What will happen if I do not replace the short belt? And by "short belt" I am assuming you mean that top belt that had to be partially taken off to get to the drive belt? That one seems to be a lot easier to deal with. I could replace it if it is necessary.
I ended up tying some nylon rope around the end of that tension spring you were talking about and used it like a handle to release the spring. :wink:
Oh, and I did all of this without lifting it off the ground. I am quite dirty from crawling around on the garage floor. I don't mind it though. All worth it.
I ordered new blades for it too. They should be here tomorrow or the next day. Mine are pretty banged up.
It is pretty late here and I am sure my neighbors won't appreciate me starting up the mower, so I am going to wait until tomorrow to start it. I will let you all know what happens.
#70
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
And a HUGE thank you to everyone on this forum that has given me bits of information and encouragement through this process!!!! You all helped me tremendously! Seriously... I referred to this website SO many times! I had signed up on a different mower forum about the same time I signed up here. I was not sure how responsive people would be here, so I was prepared to post on the other website. I never did have to go back to that website again. That is really impressive to me. My day time job is web development and I have had forums of my own before. It can be hard to keep a forum community active, so you all get a big "high five" from me! Even my husband is impressed at how much you all helped me. I just wanted to let you know! Keep up the good work! :thumbsup:
#71
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The whole set up relies on the belts being exactly the same width.
As the long one is now thicker than the short, the short belt will always be turning faster than it should.
Net result is the range of speeds changes quite drastically.
Some times they won't go on the slow settings and other times they wont go as fast.
The top belt tension is fixed by that !#*! spring.
The pedal changes tension on the bottom belt which of course has to work against that !#*! spring.
When that happens the middle bit moves and thus one belt sees a bigger pulley and the other a shorter.
It is a finely balanced system.
So if you have the "gear" steps don't be worried if you get no drive in 1 & 2 positions.
If you find it a problem then you know how to change the top belt now, it is the easier one.
Generally customers think I am trying to pad out the bill when I tell them both have to be done.
So I just change the one.
Usually before the season is out I get called to change the other one so they pay a lot more labour.
And congratulations once again.
Tripple check that belt run before you fire it up.
It is very disappointing that whoever sold you the belt did not suggest doing both belts
As the long one is now thicker than the short, the short belt will always be turning faster than it should.
Net result is the range of speeds changes quite drastically.
Some times they won't go on the slow settings and other times they wont go as fast.
The top belt tension is fixed by that !#*! spring.
The pedal changes tension on the bottom belt which of course has to work against that !#*! spring.
When that happens the middle bit moves and thus one belt sees a bigger pulley and the other a shorter.
It is a finely balanced system.
So if you have the "gear" steps don't be worried if you get no drive in 1 & 2 positions.
If you find it a problem then you know how to change the top belt now, it is the easier one.
Generally customers think I am trying to pad out the bill when I tell them both have to be done.
So I just change the one.
Usually before the season is out I get called to change the other one so they pay a lot more labour.
And congratulations once again.
Tripple check that belt run before you fire it up.
It is very disappointing that whoever sold you the belt did not suggest doing both belts
#72
A
AFProdigy
Ah yes, that makes sense. Well, I might as well just change that one out tomorrow. The local parts store did have one, luckily. Although I wish they had suggested I get that top one as well. Oh well. Live and learn.
Thank you for the explanation about how those belts work. I kept looking at that lower belt and how loose it is. I kept wondering how in the world that worked like that. I knew something had to tighten it up, but wasn't sure. Now I understand.
Does the same concept about the belt width apply to the mower deck belt? Or is that independent from that issue?
The new belt is made up of some sort of newer material. I asked the parts guy what it was. I am pretty sure he said "kevlar". The old belts are the old style black rubber.
A
AFProdigy
The whole set up relies on the belts being exactly the same width.
As the long one is now thicker than the short, the short belt will always be turning faster than it should.
Net result is the range of speeds changes quite drastically.
Some times they won't go on the slow settings and other times they wont go as fast.
The top belt tension is fixed by that !#*! spring.
The pedal changes tension on the bottom belt which of course has to work against that !#*! spring.
When that happens the middle bit moves and thus one belt sees a bigger pulley and the other a shorter.
It is a finely balanced system.
So if you have the "gear" steps don't be worried if you get no drive in 1 & 2 positions.
If you find it a problem then you know how to change the top belt now, it is the easier one.
Generally customers think I am trying to pad out the bill when I tell them both have to be done.
So I just change the one.
Usually before the season is out I get called to change the other one so they pay a lot more labour.
And congratulations once again.
Tripple check that belt run before you fire it up.
It is very disappointing that whoever sold you the belt did not suggest doing both belts
Ah yes, that makes sense. Well, I might as well just change that one out tomorrow. The local parts store did have one, luckily. Although I wish they had suggested I get that top one as well. Oh well. Live and learn.
Thank you for the explanation about how those belts work. I kept looking at that lower belt and how loose it is. I kept wondering how in the world that worked like that. I knew something had to tighten it up, but wasn't sure. Now I understand.
Does the same concept about the belt width apply to the mower deck belt? Or is that independent from that issue?
The new belt is made up of some sort of newer material. I asked the parts guy what it was. I am pretty sure he said "kevlar". The old belts are the old style black rubber.
#73
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I successfully replaced the upper and lower drive belts. She starts up great and runs good (for the most part). I still seem to have what I think you call "surging" where it seems like the fuel or pressure drops, kicks back in, drops, kicks back in, etc. I don't know if you call that surging. It is not accelerating faster, but rather experiencing momentary drops in power or something. I see the linkage on the carburetor kick back and forth (open/close) when that is happening. It only happens at full throttle and stops if I decrease throttle just a little.
It also seemed a bit sluggish on the slowest speed while driving. Almost as if it might die, but never did.
https://youtu.be/LdifDdZftMw
Are there any new recommendations or should I still check out what was recommended previously about checking the carburetor and such? I thought I had fixed the problem with my adjustment to the throttle cable. It seemed like it helped anyway. Maybe it was coincidence?
The new blades arrived today. I will try to install them tomorrow.
It also seemed a bit sluggish on the slowest speed while driving. Almost as if it might die, but never did.
https://youtu.be/LdifDdZftMw
Are there any new recommendations or should I still check out what was recommended previously about checking the carburetor and such? I thought I had fixed the problem with my adjustment to the throttle cable. It seemed like it helped anyway. Maybe it was coincidence?
The new blades arrived today. I will try to install them tomorrow.
#74
EngineMan
EngineMan
going by the video it still seems to be running now and then a little rich, check the carb again, also make sure that any springs from the gov to carb are on right.
#75
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Surging is always due to a too lean fuel mix.
Either an air leak after the venturi in the carb ( the bit where the fuel mixes with the air )
Or not enough fuel to mix with the air in the first place.
So for starters.
Get some WD 40 or similar in a TRIGGER PACK, not a spray can and liberally spray it all around the carb & manifold.
If the engine starts to blow smoke or runs funny then you have an air leak.
Overtightening the carb will cause this.
No joy there, clean the carb, check for obstructions in the main jet or emulsion tubes.
Detailed instructions are available in the repairs section of http://outdoorpowerinfo.com.
No joy there then keep going back through the fuel system to the tank & tank cap.
If you removing the tank cap and blowing backwards through the fuel line relieves the symptoms then the tank has a blockage.
Either an air leak after the venturi in the carb ( the bit where the fuel mixes with the air )
Or not enough fuel to mix with the air in the first place.
So for starters.
Get some WD 40 or similar in a TRIGGER PACK, not a spray can and liberally spray it all around the carb & manifold.
If the engine starts to blow smoke or runs funny then you have an air leak.
Overtightening the carb will cause this.
No joy there, clean the carb, check for obstructions in the main jet or emulsion tubes.
Detailed instructions are available in the repairs section of http://outdoorpowerinfo.com.
No joy there then keep going back through the fuel system to the tank & tank cap.
If you removing the tank cap and blowing backwards through the fuel line relieves the symptoms then the tank has a blockage.
#76
EngineMan
EngineMan
Do the above post, check that O-ring that you know of on the pipe that goes to engine and also gasket if any on the engine side of the carb.
To me it sounds rich, but I could be wrong.
Can you tell us what type of carb is on it please.
Also take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puw5revdcbE&html5=1
To me it sounds rich, but I could be wrong.
Can you tell us what type of carb is on it please.
Also take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puw5revdcbE&html5=1
#77
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Yes do what Bert says...... If all that fails then it's time to go to the governor.... You did have that engine apart so something might have gotten out of adjustment..............
Let us Know Mon Amie ~!~!
Let us Know Mon Amie ~!~!
#78
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Hi again! The mower seemed to be doing well when I started it today. I put the new blades on and decided to try to mow. I noticed a knocking noise developing. I am having a hard time figuring out if it is coming from inside the engine or outside. It is definitely around the engine though. I have tried to look for anything that might be hitting or rubbing, but don't see anything obvious. Everything feels like it is still tightly bolted on. Here is a video of the noise...
https://youtu.be/w9LBIKQq0kE
I started to hear what almost sounds like something rattling around inside the engine, but only when I accelerate. It is random and makes me envision something floating around in the engine in the oil. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. I am concerned something else broke in there or I somehow missed a broken piece of the timing gear or camshaft. Ugh. I will have to try to get that noise on video tomorrow.
The grass has grown pretty tall since the mower has been down for a while. I set the deck to 3" (what I normally use) but the mower struggled and vibrated pretty hard through thick patches. I raised it up to 4" which made it a bit easier on the mower, but it still struggled through thick patches, just not as bad. I doesn't seem to do as well as it did before hitting the stump and working on it.
https://youtu.be/w9LBIKQq0kE
I started to hear what almost sounds like something rattling around inside the engine, but only when I accelerate. It is random and makes me envision something floating around in the engine in the oil. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. I am concerned something else broke in there or I somehow missed a broken piece of the timing gear or camshaft. Ugh. I will have to try to get that noise on video tomorrow.
The grass has grown pretty tall since the mower has been down for a while. I set the deck to 3" (what I normally use) but the mower struggled and vibrated pretty hard through thick patches. I raised it up to 4" which made it a bit easier on the mower, but it still struggled through thick patches, just not as bad. I doesn't seem to do as well as it did before hitting the stump and working on it.
#79
D
Darryl G
D
Darryl G
Let me preface this by saying that I am not one of the experts here. It sounds like it could be a rod knock due to a bad bearing, but, listening on my crappy phone speaker it sounds to me like it could just be an exhaust leak. I would check and make sure that the exhaust is on properly and tight and, if equipped with a gasket, that it's in good condition and positioned properly.
#80
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
Check the gap on the coil but it doesn't sound like that. With the plug out turn it over by hand see if you can feel it or hear it
#81
B
blackchevy3de
B
blackchevy3de
It sound like a rod knock, but id adjust the valves again, because you say it has a power lose, rod knock wouldn't do that .Hi again! The mower seemed to be doing well when I started it today. I put the new blades on and decided to try to mow. I noticed a knocking noise developing. I am having a hard time figuring out if it is coming from inside the engine or outside. It is definitely around the engine though. I have tried to look for anything that might be hitting or rubbing, but don't see anything obvious. Everything feels like it is still tightly bolted on. Here is a video of the noise...
https://youtu.be/w9LBIKQq0kE
I started to hear what almost sounds like something rattling around inside the engine, but only when I accelerate. It is random and makes me envision something floating around in the engine in the oil. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. I am concerned something else broke in there or I somehow missed a broken piece of the timing gear or camshaft. Ugh. I will have to try to get that noise on video tomorrow.
The grass has grown pretty tall since the mower has been down for a while. I set the deck to 3" (what I normally use) but the mower struggled and vibrated pretty hard through thick patches. I raised it up to 4" which made it a bit easier on the mower, but it still struggled through thick patches, just not as bad. I doesn't seem to do as well as it did before hitting the stump and working on it.
#82
EngineMan
EngineMan
Could be knocking from the connecting rod, piston pin, or a loose tappet or even piston slap, I would be using a mechanics stethoscope to try and pin point it. check the valve settings again to start see if one is very loose.
#83
B
blackchevy3de
B
blackchevy3de
Also recheck that fly wheel nut make sure its tightHi again! The mower seemed to be doing well when I started it today. I put the new blades on and decided to try to mow. I noticed a knocking noise developing. I am having a hard time figuring out if it is coming from inside the engine or outside. It is definitely around the engine though. I have tried to look for anything that might be hitting or rubbing, but don't see anything obvious. Everything feels like it is still tightly bolted on. Here is a video of the noise...
https://youtu.be/w9LBIKQq0kE
I started to hear what almost sounds like something rattling around inside the engine, but only when I accelerate. It is random and makes me envision something floating around in the engine in the oil. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. I am concerned something else broke in there or I somehow missed a broken piece of the timing gear or camshaft. Ugh. I will have to try to get that noise on video tomorrow.
The grass has grown pretty tall since the mower has been down for a while. I set the deck to 3" (what I normally use) but the mower struggled and vibrated pretty hard through thick patches. I raised it up to 4" which made it a bit easier on the mower, but it still struggled through thick patches, just not as bad. I doesn't seem to do as well as it did before hitting the stump and working on it.
#84
T
triumph65068
did you ever pull the fly wheel I hit stump and it broke the key
T
triumph65068
It sounds like you have little to no compression by your video, pull the valve cover off and im thinking you will find, a bent of broken push rod or rocker arm.ps let me know what you find
did you ever pull the fly wheel I hit stump and it broke the key
#85
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Hello again! Thank you, everyone, for the advice!
Yes, I had checked the flywheel key early on when I hit the tree stump. I had posted pictures of it. It appeared to be intact with a visual inspection from the top.
I got the mechanic stethescope as suggested. The knocking sound is definitely coming from the main engine compartment (or flywheel) area. It is loudest within that part. I made a video explaining in greater detail and pointing out where I hear the noise loudest.
https://youtu.be/66-__IX-5eQ
I also noticed a wobble in the rotation of the flywheel. You can see that in the video. It seems almost in time with the knocking. May or may not be related. I am concerned that I bent something when tightening the flywheel bolt. I tightened it pretty hard, but was using a torque wrench to the website specs.
What do you guys think?
Yes, I had checked the flywheel key early on when I hit the tree stump. I had posted pictures of it. It appeared to be intact with a visual inspection from the top.
I got the mechanic stethescope as suggested. The knocking sound is definitely coming from the main engine compartment (or flywheel) area. It is loudest within that part. I made a video explaining in greater detail and pointing out where I hear the noise loudest.
https://youtu.be/66-__IX-5eQ
I also noticed a wobble in the rotation of the flywheel. You can see that in the video. It seems almost in time with the knocking. May or may not be related. I am concerned that I bent something when tightening the flywheel bolt. I tightened it pretty hard, but was using a torque wrench to the website specs.
What do you guys think?
#86
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Here are two more videos. I was trying to see if the flywheel was rubbing or hitting any where. I don't think it is. No parts of the flywheel look like they have been rubbed on. It is still the old rusted brown/orange color all the way around. I don't see any other components that look like they could be hitting or rubbing due to the wobble in that vicinity.
https://youtu.be/ltKwWJLeJzk
In this one, I try turning it on and off a couple of times to see if there is anything obvious.
https://youtu.be/PYNHbu4YeBo
https://youtu.be/ltKwWJLeJzk
In this one, I try turning it on and off a couple of times to see if there is anything obvious.
https://youtu.be/PYNHbu4YeBo
#87
EngineMan
EngineMan
I think there is no problem with the fly wheel, its just I believe the way it is from the metal casting, its time to take off the pan again (bottom) and check the connecting rod bolts are tight, if they are tight check to see if there is any play on the connecting rod, are you also sure that a tappet is not too lose.
#88
A
AFProdigy
*sigh*
Thank you for the advice.
I did not know to check the connecting rod bolts when I had it open. I did not check to see if the connecting rod was loose either.
I am not sure about the valve clearance (tappets). I applied assembly lube to the brand new tappets and pushed them up into their holes. I assumed they just sit in there? The old ones just slid out. I adjust the valve clearance with a lash (feeler) gauge to the recommended specs. I tightened the nuts and screws and then rechecked the measurements again.
I will have to order gaskets again to open the head back up and maybe the sump cover gasket. This is frustrating.
A
AFProdigy
I think there is no problem with the fly wheel, its just I believe the way it is from the metal casting, its time to take off the pan again (bottom) and check the connecting rod bolts are tight, if they are tight check to see if there is any play on the connecting rod, are you also sure that a tappet is not too lose.
*sigh*
Thank you for the advice.
I did not know to check the connecting rod bolts when I had it open. I did not check to see if the connecting rod was loose either.
I am not sure about the valve clearance (tappets). I applied assembly lube to the brand new tappets and pushed them up into their holes. I assumed they just sit in there? The old ones just slid out. I adjust the valve clearance with a lash (feeler) gauge to the recommended specs. I tightened the nuts and screws and then rechecked the measurements again.
I will have to order gaskets again to open the head back up and maybe the sump cover gasket. This is frustrating.
#89
EngineMan
EngineMan
So you never took out the connecting rod bolts, ok I'll take other look at the post and videos again, and get back to you.
#90
EngineMan
EngineMan
Before you take off the engine check to see if any of the engine to body bolts are loose, I am still checking and will get back...!
#92
EngineMan
The gasket on the cover should be fine if you don't damage it taking it off, you don't need to remove the head to remove the cover so leave that there, when you say "new tappers" do you mean tappets or pushed rods, push rods are 1026 in photo and tappets are 45.
EngineMan
*sigh*
Thank you for the advice.
I did not know to check the connecting rod bolts when I had it open. I did not check to see if the connecting rod was loose either.
I am not sure about the valve clearance (tappets). I applied assembly lube to the brand new tappets and pushed them up into their holes. I assumed they just sit in there? The old ones just slid out. I adjust the valve clearance with a lash (feeler) gauge to the recommended specs. I tightened the nuts and screws and then rechecked the measurements again.
I will have to order gaskets again to open the head back up and maybe the sump cover gasket. This is frustrating.
The gasket on the cover should be fine if you don't damage it taking it off, you don't need to remove the head to remove the cover so leave that there, when you say "new tappers" do you mean tappets or pushed rods, push rods are 1026 in photo and tappets are 45.
Attachments
#93
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
Yes, "tappets". I am sorry... typo. I put new tappets in. I think they came with the new camshaft. I did check the push rods when I did all of that. I took them out and inspected for warping/bends/damage. They looked excellent. As did the valve components. Good to know that hopefully I do not need to take the head off and deal with that gasket. If it weren't for the gasket cleaning, I would not mind it. Someone did mention that with it seeming sort of sluggish, I may have to recheck the valves though.
This is such a bad time for this. We are moving on 4/28. I am borrowing the neighbor's mower today to mow the jungle that has grown up in the back. Ha!
This is such a bad time for this. We are moving on 4/28. I am borrowing the neighbor's mower today to mow the jungle that has grown up in the back. Ha!
#94
B
blackchevy3de
I listened to your engine when you first started it after doing all that work, and beside it not running good I heard no knock, engine was running really rich, I heard your husband say how bad the gas small was, did you check the oil to see if any gas has got into the oil and thinned it out, if so that will make engine knock, last by the video I know its hard to tell but it looks like your lower engine pulley isn't spinning there is a key way built into it
B
blackchevy3de
I had already checked the bolts that mount the engine to the frame. They are good.
I listened to your engine when you first started it after doing all that work, and beside it not running good I heard no knock, engine was running really rich, I heard your husband say how bad the gas small was, did you check the oil to see if any gas has got into the oil and thinned it out, if so that will make engine knock, last by the video I know its hard to tell but it looks like your lower engine pulley isn't spinning there is a key way built into it
#95
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
I feel like this will be a silly question, but here goes...
When I was putting the push rods back in, it felt like I was unsure of how it should feel when inserting them in their slots. One of them felt like it went in real nice and sort of "plugged" in to something. The other one did not feel the same and it felt like maybe it was just sitting in there and not actually seated in anything in particular. It reminded me of trying to line up a screw with a screw hole and not finding the hole. But then I just sort of assumed that maybe they just sit in there and don't necessary attach to anything inside. But now I am looking at your diagram and I see the push rods line up with the holes in the tappets. Do the push rods actually go inside the holes in the tappets? Maybe that is what is wrong... one was not lined up and in the hole properly? Also, I out the push rods in after I closed up the sump cover. Could putting the push rods in push the tappets out?
When I was putting the push rods back in, it felt like I was unsure of how it should feel when inserting them in their slots. One of them felt like it went in real nice and sort of "plugged" in to something. The other one did not feel the same and it felt like maybe it was just sitting in there and not actually seated in anything in particular. It reminded me of trying to line up a screw with a screw hole and not finding the hole. But then I just sort of assumed that maybe they just sit in there and don't necessary attach to anything inside. But now I am looking at your diagram and I see the push rods line up with the holes in the tappets. Do the push rods actually go inside the holes in the tappets? Maybe that is what is wrong... one was not lined up and in the hole properly? Also, I out the push rods in after I closed up the sump cover. Could putting the push rods in push the tappets out?
#96
A
AFProdigy
There definitely was no knock at first. The knock did not start until after I mowed a little bit.
Initially, there was some black smoke, troubles with starting it up, and troubles with the throttle surging. But I made adjustments to the throttle cable and also put a different air filter on. I rechecked all the bolts for the carb/intake connections. One of those things seemed to help with those troubles. She starts up great now and is not noticeably smoking or surging. The only problems I have now are the knocking and sluggishness in thick grass. Especially thick grass going up a hill. Otherwise, she cuts average grass just fine and drives around just fine (plus the loud noise).
I will check that lower pulley. You are right, it was not spinning. I assumed that maybe that only engaged when moving?
Oh and I did not check the oil for gas, but will.
A
AFProdigy
I listened to your engine when you first started it after doing all that work, and beside it not running good I heard no knock, engine was running really rich, I heard your husband say how bad the gas small was, did you check the oil to see if any gas has got into the oil and thinned it out, if so that will make engine knock, last by the video I know its hard to tell but it looks like your lower engine pulley isn't spinning there is a key way built into it
There definitely was no knock at first. The knock did not start until after I mowed a little bit.
Initially, there was some black smoke, troubles with starting it up, and troubles with the throttle surging. But I made adjustments to the throttle cable and also put a different air filter on. I rechecked all the bolts for the carb/intake connections. One of those things seemed to help with those troubles. She starts up great now and is not noticeably smoking or surging. The only problems I have now are the knocking and sluggishness in thick grass. Especially thick grass going up a hill. Otherwise, she cuts average grass just fine and drives around just fine (plus the loud noise).
I will check that lower pulley. You are right, it was not spinning. I assumed that maybe that only engaged when moving?
Oh and I did not check the oil for gas, but will.
#97
B
blackchevy3de
that pulley should be spinning with engine running there is a key way built into that pulley,
B
blackchevy3de
There definitely was no knock at first. The knock did not start until after I mowed a little bit.
Initially, there was some black smoke, troubles with starting it up, and troubles with the throttle surging. But I made adjustments to the throttle cable and also put a different air filter on. I rechecked all the bolts for the carb/intake connections. One of those things seemed to help with those troubles. She starts up great now and is not noticeably smoking or surging. The only problems I have now are the knocking and sluggishness in thick grass. Especially thick grass going up a hill. Otherwise, she cuts average grass just fine and drives around just fine (plus the loud noise).
I will check that lower pulley. You are right, it was not spinning. I assumed that maybe that only engaged when moving?
Oh and I did not check the oil for gas, but will.
that pulley should be spinning with engine running there is a key way built into that pulley,
#98
A
AFProdigy
I think I worded that wrong. The pulley itself is moving, but the belts on the pulley are not moving (when in park). But as I said before, don't the belts only engage when driving? It drives fine, just sounds like engine knocking.
Also, I did note the keyway when reinstalling it. It would only go on if the keyway was properly aligned.
Did you see what I said about the pushrods in #95?
A
AFProdigy
that pulley should be spinning with engine running there is a key way built into that pulley,
I think I worded that wrong. The pulley itself is moving, but the belts on the pulley are not moving (when in park). But as I said before, don't the belts only engage when driving? It drives fine, just sounds like engine knocking.
Also, I did note the keyway when reinstalling it. It would only go on if the keyway was properly aligned.
Did you see what I said about the pushrods in #95?
#99
A
AFProdigy
A
AFProdigy
By the way, I started her up to confirm that engine pulley was spinning. I noticed surging again at higher throttle. Grrr!! 
#100
D
Darryl G
D
Darryl G
Sounds like it's time to hide your sledge hammer...
The surging may smooth out once it warms up. It sounds like that's the least of your problems at this point, and it doesn't sound like the pulley is an issue either.
Sorry I can't help with your engine problems, but I suggest you not try running it anymore until you can get the knocking issue resolved. Hopefully one of the guys already involved will chime in soon with answers to your questions about the rods and tappets.
The surging may smooth out once it warms up. It sounds like that's the least of your problems at this point, and it doesn't sound like the pulley is an issue either.
Sorry I can't help with your engine problems, but I suggest you not try running it anymore until you can get the knocking issue resolved. Hopefully one of the guys already involved will chime in soon with answers to your questions about the rods and tappets.
#101
EngineMan
EngineMan
The push rods have to be in the right place because you would be able to start it, there seems to be difference of opinion here, some are saying that's right and that's the sound of a briggs and stratton, some are saying there is no knoking, and others are saying its knoking.
#103
A
AFProdigy
This is on the head cover...
31P677 0912 G5
A
AFProdigy
can you post your model numbers for your engine
This is on the head cover...
31P677 0912 G5
#105
A
AFProdigy
Hmm... I don't remember how many. I just know I put them all back.
Are you talking about the cover for the oil pump?
A
AFProdigy
On the bottom of the sump was there like 3 screws holding a cover on?
Hmm... I don't remember how many. I just know I put them all back.
Are you talking about the cover for the oil pump?
#106
L
Luffydog
L
Luffydog
Yes the oil pump cover you have to align it up with the cam
In order for it to work and pump oil. Making sure you have it installed correctly.
In order for it to work and pump oil. Making sure you have it installed correctly.
#107
A
AFProdigy
I used Taryl's video to do the camshaft and timing gear replacement. He just said those two interlocking pieces in the oil pump will only fit in one way and you can't mess it up. It looked like it all fit in there nicely. I don't know other than that.
A
AFProdigy
Yes the oil pump cover you have to align it up with the cam
In order for it to work and pump oil. Making sure you have it installed correctly.
I used Taryl's video to do the camshaft and timing gear replacement. He just said those two interlocking pieces in the oil pump will only fit in one way and you can't mess it up. It looked like it all fit in there nicely. I don't know other than that.