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Hi guys,

The brakes never worked since purchasing a GX75 this year. When tightening the brake adjuster made no difference, I started to take the brakes apart. Removing the brake lever and lever guide, it appears I have a brake system with the caliper underneath and designed to be one unit with the transmission.

Evebtually, after reading around, I read the two pins, sticking out either side of the brake lever actuator bolt, should be removable. They are not. After 24hrs of soaking in penetrating oil and a couple of taps with the hammer and they are still frozen stuck.

Any suggestions please or am I barking up the wrong tree trying to get these pins out?

I have a replacement brake rotor and new pads on the way. Im a little bit unsure how this brake system comes apart as the rotor seems fairly attached to the transmission (as it probably should be in order for the brake to be able to stop the mower).

Any advice would be helpful

A two frozen steel pins in aluminum housing...never easy. These pins need to move freely. Don't be afraid to put some heat to it and pull them out with a vise-grip. Those two 1/4" bolts holding the break assembly to transmission housing...real easy to break them off if you're not careful. Not pretty! If you do, you're looking at drilling out what's left of it in the hole and re-tapping.

Jack17 said:

A two frozen steel pins in aluminum housing...never easy. These pins need to move freely. Don't be afraid to put some heat to it and pull them out with a vise-grip. Those two 1/4" bolts holding the break assembly to transmission housing...real easy to break them off if you're not careful. Not pretty! If you do, you're looking at drilling out what's left of it in the hole and re-tapping.

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Thanks Jack. My next concern is the design of my peerless tecumseh transaxle seems to be the only I've seen that has the brake caliper one whole piece with the bottom half casing of the transaxle. I really can't find a join of any sort to suggest they are two seperate items. So my next question is how is the brake rotor supposed to be removed, since it cant simply slide off it's spindle with this design, without taking off the top half of the transaxle casing

I've got two mowers with exact same transmissions as yours. Did break jobs on both of them long ago and don't recall how exactly rotor is held down. Remember that it wasn't a big deal at all. I think it was a single Allen bolt right in the center holding it down to the shaft. Biggest problem (as I recall) was taking them two bolts holding the front bracket out. Let me take a look at some diagrams and I'll get back to you with details.

Jack17 said:

I've got two mowers with exact same transmissions as yours. Did break jobs on both of them long ago and don't recall how exactly rotor is held down. Remember that it wasn't a big deal at all. I think it was a single Allen bolt right in the center holding it down to the shaft. Biggest problem (as I recall) was taking them two bolts holding the front bracket out. Let me take a look at some diagrams and I'll get back to you with details.

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Thanks Jack, I can also upload a photo of mine to confirm we are talking about the same transmission?

Yeah. They call it a cap screw (#4 on diagram) that is in the middle of the (#8) break disk that goes onto a shaft that goes thru a seal, a needle bearing, a washer, spur gear and that is it! Easy does it. :thumbsup:

Jack17 said:

Yeah. They call it a cap screw (#4 on diagram) that is in the middle of the (#8) break disk that goes onto a shaft that goes thru a seal, a needle bearing, a washer, spur gear and that is it! Easy does it. :thumbsup:

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What diagram please?

My photo links below:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fcsrnfk1hl3b3yc/Photo Mar 16, 1 49 51 PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxcig8jn3o4etm6/Photo Mar 16, 1 49 58 PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ke8p8pv91glhvr/Photo Mar 16, 1 50 03 PM.jpg?dl=0

This is my concern:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...4-gx75-rer-refurbish-questions-brake-disk-jpg

"Remove Transaxle. Then Disassemble Transaxle." Just for a brake change. Crazy! Do you know a shorter/quicker way to do the brake change without having to take half the mower apart like this?

This Peerless manual may be helpful in some way .... I'm hoping ...Boobala

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehpeerlessmanual.pdf

Speedydan said:

What diagram please?

My photo links below:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fcsrnfk1hl3b3yc/Photo Mar 16, 1 49 51 PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxcig8jn3o4etm6/Photo Mar 16, 1 49 58 PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ke8p8pv91glhvr/Photo Mar 16, 1 50 03 PM.jpg?dl=0

Click to expand...

That's NOT 800 series trans!!! That thing doesn't come apart like I told you. Looks like you gonna have to drop the tranny and split it in half to get to it. Look at it from this angle...still not a big deal and you get the opportunity to clean the old grease out and lube it all nice and fresh on the inside!!!

Jack17 said:

That's NOT 800 series trans!!! That thing doesn't come apart like I told you. Looks like you gonna have to drop the tranny and split it in half to get to it. Look at it from this angle...still not a big deal and you get the opportunity to clean the old grease out and lube it all nice and fresh on the inside!!!

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Thanks Jack and Boobala. That's what I was fearing. Not a big deal though, like you say, in the long run I'll be more knowledgeable with my mower and hopefully prevent future issues.

Any recommendations for transaxle lube and sealing (silicone instead of gaskets?) to save paying the John Deere premiums?

Hey, I'm truly sorry about that. Honestly, I couldn't find the exact diagram of your trans so I crossed referenced the rotor and break pads part # and those interchange with what I've got...figuring...must be the same thing. 5-speed Peerless / Tecumseh 801 and all...it sucks! Anyway, just take your time going thru this. Don't rush. If you run into anything unexpected just comeback here and we'll take care of it.

You have LOTS of folks here to work with you .. just ASK for the help...and remember... NO QUESTION IS STUPID !
PATIENCE ....and one thing I always STRESS .....get out your camera and take TONS of pics ... they will become your disassembly AND re-assembly manuals ... the shop manuals don't have all the photos you might want ... use the macro function ..( close-up) as needed , we are standing by ...... Boobala ..:thumbsup:

Speedydan said:

Thanks Jack and Boobala. That's what I was fearing. Not a big deal though, like you say, in the long run I'll be more knowledgeable with my mower and hopefully prevent future issues.

Any recommendations for transaxle lube and sealing (silicone instead of gaskets?) to save paying the John Deere premiums?

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I'm still looking for an exact print for yours. And just to make you feel better, in my opinion, them 75s to 95s were sweet!!! It's most definitely on my 'next to buy' list!

Boobala said:

This Peerless manual may be helpful in some way .... I'm hoping ...Boobala

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehpeerlessmanual.pdf

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Boobala...help me out here! What is he got? 600 series shows exactly what I told him to do before? But 700 is just the other way around. I bet that he's got the 700!!! Never easy!

Jack17 said:

Boobala...help me out here! What is he got? 600 series shows exactly what I told him to do before? But 700 is just the other way around. I bet that he's got the 700!!! Never easy!

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speedydan needs to see if he can find an ID plate or sticker on the trans.. or send pics.. the peerless manual should show HIM which model he has .. the model or serial number would confirm it ..I have no idea which model he has ..yet ... Boobala

Speedydan said:

Any recommendations for transaxle lube

Click to expand...

12 Oz. of Bentonite grease is recommended.

It appears to me the brake is NOT part of the driven axles.. it is on a gear carrying shaft ( same idea ) however , it appears the disc is splined and may be removable without splitting
the trans .. too much dirt in the way...... a superior cleaning is in order to get better visuals.. also I did NOT know this is a Rear Engine Rider
I have never worked on a RER .. so I don't know how the trans couples to the engine , hope its just belt ..



all we can do is wait on speedydan ....he has a manual ... Im hoping I sent the right one . Will surely be much easier with trans removed !

Boobala said:

It appears to me the brake is NOT part of the driven axles.. it is on a gear carrying shaft ( same idea ) however , it appears the disc is splined and may be removable without splitting
the trans .. too much dirt in the way...... a superior cleaning is in order to get better visuals.. also I did NOT know this is a Rear Engine Rider
I have never worked on a RER .. so I don't know how the trans couples to the engine , hope its just belt ..

View attachment 31329

all we can do is wait on speedydan ....he has a manual ... Im hoping I sent the right one . Will surely be much easier with trans removed !

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Thanks guys I certainly appreciated the help and enthusiasm here. Didnt realise the messages had been rolling in.

According to my manual I have a Peerless 915 transaxle. Cant seem to find the ID tag where the peerless manual says it should be. Still looking.

The brake disc is locked currently (probably from tapping on the sliding pins to work them loose). So I may be beyond the point of return now

1 - a random plate screwed in on the outside of the brake lever guide says: "915 006B Peerless". It then also says "1248 000062" so that must be a late addition ID labelling since the casing has nothing on it but Tecumseh label and address and also patent numbers.

2 - the transaxle is belt fed from the engine from what I can see.

3 - I can clean it all with some 50/50 Purple power and water and then hose it all down if you think that will do the job without hurting the belts? Battery removed prior of course.

Speedydan said:

1 - a random plate screwed in on the outside of the brake lever guide says: "915 006B Peerless". It then also says "1248 000062" so that must be a late addition ID labelling since the casing has nothing on it but Tecumseh label and address and also patent numbers.

2 - the transaxle is belt fed from the engine from what I can see.

3 - I can clean it all with some 50/50 Purple power and water and then hose it all down if you think that will do the job without hurting the belts? Battery removed prior of course.

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purple power is great for cleaning .. it removes paint on certain objects too !! Dan ... it does appear to get this brake working , it will probably
be best to drop the trans, looking at that photo from some manual you posted ..those pins sticking out of the housing on each side of the stud should be what pushes the pads against the disc..be sure to use your camera..looking at the diagrams in the manual can you tell which model you have ... the numbers point to a 900 series ???

Boobala said:

purple power is great for cleaning .. it removes paint on certain objects too !! Dan ... it does appear to get this brake working , it will probably
be best to drop the trans, looking at that photo from some manual you posted ..those pins sticking out of the housing on each side of the stud should be what pushes the pads against the disc..be sure to use your camera..looking at the diagrams in the manual can you tell which model you have ... the numbers point to a 900 series ???

Click to expand...

Check page # 55 in the Peerless manual I sent... the 915 series trans !!! that should be it .. the starting point .

Yep, Im sure I have the 915 series. Although my brake caliper is not removable which throws me off a bit from what the manual is saying. It must just be a mild (annoying) variation of that transaxle.

Agreed on the trans dropping and opening. I didnt envision being that intensive with the mower right away but I guess I have to learn some day. And the grass isnt growing too fast in Indiana this time of year. Time to enlist the help of a friend w the belt uncoupling and trans opening I think.

Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated.

Speedydan said:

Yep, Im sure I have the 915 series. Although my brake caliper is not removable which throws me off a bit from what the manual is saying. It must just be a mild (annoying) variation of that transaxle.

Agreed on the trans dropping and opening. I didnt envision being that intensive with the mower right away but I guess I have to learn some day. And the grass isnt growing too fast in Indiana this time of year. Time to enlist the help of a friend w the belt uncoupling and trans opening I think.

Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated.

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once you drop the trans and clean it up... things will be much clearer ... USE the CAMERA Dan !!!

Looks like 915 it is. Thanks for a nice link to all them transmissions Boobala.

Dan, looking at and judging the last two pictures you've posted I'm convinced that there is nothing wrong with the rotor. Also, the amount of 'pin' that is sticking out tells me that there is a lot of meat left in them pads. If you could blast it all clean, get them two pins to move again you could be looking at perfectly fine working break that will last you another 10 years? What are we looking at? An hour of labor, maybe? But if you decide to get that tranny out and rebuild breaks 'the proper way'...then...8-10 hours of labor to get to $10 item? Think about it.

Jack17 said:

Looks like 915 it is. Thanks for a nice link to all them transmissions Boobala.

Dan, looking at and judging the last two pictures you've posted I'm convinced that there is nothing wrong with the rotor. Also, the amount of 'pin' that is sticking out tells me that there is a lot of meat left in them pads. If you could blast it all clean, get them two pins to move again you could be looking at perfectly fine working break that will last you another 10 years? What are we looking at? An hour of labor, maybe? But if you decide to get that tranny out and rebuild breaks 'the proper way'...then...8-10 hours of labor to get to $10 item? Think about it.

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Very good point. I'll get the heat gun out and try to pull those pins today.

Speedydan said:

Very good point. I'll get the heat gun out and try to pull those pins today.

Click to expand...

I agree .... try to work on those pins ... lots of PB-Blaster penetrant and "TAP" -"TAP" with small hammer , don't "mushroom" the pins & install nut on stud in case hammer has a mind of it's own . Heat gun is great choice also.. LAST resort is to drop trans.
If you really have to mow ... maybe you can ask a friend with a mower, might be a kid around with a mower looking to make a few bucks ...lots of options .. :smile:

Warm the whole set up with a torch or hot air gun then spray it liberally with you favourite penetrating fluid.
As it cools down it will suck into the cavity.
If it was in my workshop & I could get my hands on new pins I would cut a slot in them then rotate with a screwdriver & pull them out once free.
If you have a hammer drill ( most cordless are ) close down the jaws to a point press against the pins then turn on the drill, you don't need to press hard.
The 1200 tiny taps / miin are really good at breaking free corroded together parts.
When they do come out a little bit of NICKEL ( NOT COPPER ) anti sieze goes a long way to preventing this happening again.

I was reading through the Peerless Manual I sent... it seems the brake could be mounted on either side but no mention of splitting cases for brake repair. Like you thought.. you must have some variation of a 915 trans. The diagrams in the Peerless manual appears that
all those similar models 700 thru 900 series all have a typical removable lower brake housing ..

But your pic ... doesn't seem to represent that !!! ....

SO ... it's beginning to seem .. like the trans may have to be dropped if you can't get the pins out ... but you may only be able to replace the pins and MAYBE the outer brake pad plate and pad ... PATIENCE ... keep working on the pins ... actually , ..I believe the only important function of these trans brakes is to stop trans moving gears to allow shifting of gears ... pulling the engine throttle back usually slows the tractor itself ... granted the brake is there for helping in that issue . As usual keep us up-dated ..Boobala

Like Bert said use Nickel based anti-size. Don't use copper or graphite cause it could promote corrosion of aluminum.

BTW, from the pictures Dan took it doesn't look like this break assembly was meant to be serviceable on 915s...I mean you can get to it but...Holy Cow!!!

Boobala said:

I was reading through the Peerless Manual I sent... it seems the brake could be mounted on either side but no mention of splitting cases for brake repair. Like you thought.. you must have some variation of a 915 trans. The diagrams in the Peerless manual appears that
all those similar models 700 thru 900 series all have a typical removable lower brake housing ..View attachment 31337

But your pic ... doesn't seem to represent that !!! ....View attachment 31338

SO ... it's beginning to seem .. like the trans may have to be dropped if you can't get the pins out ... but you may only be able to replace the pins and MAYBE the outer brake pad plate and pad ... PATIENCE ... keep working on the pins ... actually , ..I believe the only important function of these trans brakes is to stop trans moving gears to allow shifting of gears ... pulling the engine throttle back usually slows the tractor itself ... granted the brake is there for helping in that issue . As usual keep us up-dated ..Boobala

Click to expand...

JD did funny things with brakes.
Many of them are inside the box and ran in tranny oil

Thanks guys. It looks like we were all on the same page.

UPDATE: I borrowed a heat gun and good news! The pins finally came out. Luckily, it also freed up the brake rotor too (I guess my tapping on the pins pushed the pads on the rotor for a bit. And in other good news, the brakes work now too! I put each pin in the drill and cleaned them up. They now slide freely and reengage the brake well with just pushing with my fingers.

Thanks for the nickel grease tip. Im off to autozone now to get grease, a new pin for the brake lever connection, and some brake cleaner to really clear and compressor blow as much crud out of the caliper cavity well as possible.

I was worried the blow torch application would fry the brake pads, because it took a lonnnng time to get these pins out and some hefty whacks with the hammer to loosen up. I certainly dont want to have to deal with this again in this mower's life time. A friend can get the pins coated for me next week but I may just nickel grease these things and get them back in today.

Thanks guys!!

P.S. For thorough all round mower cleaning should I just remove the battery, douse the mower in diluted purple power and then hose wash the top and under side and then let dry for a day? I dont have to worry about damage to belts, bearings or electronics do I with hose washing the mower down?

Nicely done!!! :thumbsup:

Lawn mowers are like Husky Dogs in Alaska. Is not about keeping them warm but its all about keeping them dry and the rest will take care of itself. I don't even use garden hose. Clean it all out with a blower or compressed air, wipe it all down with oily rag and lube A LOT!!! Change oil twice a season and clean air filter and spark plug. At the end of the season do a proper lay-up and she'll run for you forever!

Thanks Jack!

Brakes working now! Thanks for he help guys. Hopefully this thread helps others in the future.

Just going to clean the air filter and plug now. Maybe look at that oil..

Well Dan you made our day ..
Glad to hear you got er done !! .......... If you do hose it down ... be sure you blow as much water off as possible (especially the top of the Trans pulley and the others as well ) then a good day in HOT sun.... WATER .. is your enemy and RUST NEVER SLEEPS !!!! A good maintenance program as Jack mentioned is essential for a long life on these babies, you take care, stay safe ... use common sense and .... drop a line once in awhile .. Boobala ..:cool2:

Hi guys,

** GX75 FOR SALE **

So, latest update. I ended up outgrowing the gx75 a little and my wife needing something a bit more modern that she could drive (so Im not nagged constantly to mow the yard). So I recall some guys on here being fond of the gx75 and wanted to offer them the chance first. Im in indiana. Let me know!

Photo above ^^^