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Generator won't start
#1
mystreba
mystreba
Hey all you small-engine gurus, I'm hoping you can help me with my generator. It's a 5kw Troy-Bilt with a B&S 1450 series 305 cc electric start (pull start also). I bought it brand new 3 years ago because we were losing power weekly, and - as is always the case with these things - have not had to use it once since I bought it. I've started it up occasionally and run it for 30 minutes, but today it won't start. I drained the tank and refilled with fresh gas. Charged the battery. Checked to make sure no varmints were nesting in there. It cranks and cranks but won't start. Choke on, choke off, no difference. Any suggestions? I thought about bypassing the kill-switch in case it went bad. Should I test for spark? Replace the plug? Spray some starter-juice in the carb?
#2
bakerg
bakerg
You can check for spark but I would not recommend using ether because you could do more harm then good. I could be your kill switch like you said. Good luck and let us know how you make out.:smile:Hey all you small-engine gurus, I'm hoping you can help me with my generator. It's a 5kw Troy-Bilt with a B&S 1450 series 305 cc electric start (pull start also). I bought it brand new 3 years ago because we were losing power weekly, and - as is always the case with these things - have not had to use it once since I bought it. I've started it up occasionally and run it for 30 minutes, but today it won't start. I drained the tank and refilled with fresh gas. Charged the battery. Checked to make sure no varmints were nesting in there. It cranks and cranks but won't start. Choke on, choke off, no difference. Any suggestions? I thought about bypassing the kill-switch in case it went bad. Should I test for spark? Replace the plug? Spray some starter-juice in the carb?
#3
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
Choke it good while spinning it over... pull the spark plug and check if it is wet?
If it is your getting fuel, if not your not getting fuel
You can also check the plug or change it and see if it has any spark hooked up and laying on the head... :smile:KennyV
If it is your getting fuel, if not your not getting fuel
You can also check the plug or change it and see if it has any spark hooked up and laying on the head... :smile:KennyV
#4
RobertBrown
RobertBrown
I'm guessing that you did not empty the carbuerator in between runs and the fuel sat in it for months. If this is the case it's a common problem and you may be able to remove the carb, disassemble it, clean it, reassemble it ,and re install it to solve your problem.
Did you leave gas in the carb for months or maybe a year? Does taking the carb off and taking it apart seem like a big deal? If so, take some pictures of the machine and its carb post them and we will get you through it. It's no big deal and you will learn alot about these issues for future reference.,
Did you leave gas in the carb for months or maybe a year? Does taking the carb off and taking it apart seem like a big deal? If so, take some pictures of the machine and its carb post them and we will get you through it. It's no big deal and you will learn alot about these issues for future reference.,
#5
mystreba
mystreba
Here's the model number - 030343
This morning I started with a multi-meter on the kill switch. I'm no genius with a multimeter, but I figured that with the switch in the ON position, I should have full continuity from pole to pole on the back of the switch. But apparently that's not how the switch works because it was in fact the opposite - full continuity only with the switch in the OFF position. Apparently the circuit has to be completed in order to kill the engine. Interesting. So my plan to jumper the switch was not a good one. Just to eliminate one of the variable, I removed the kill switch and just let the leads dangle.
Next I pulled the spark plug wire, held it over the engine block and cranked. No arc. So I pulled the spark plug, connected it to the spark plug wire and cranked. We have spark.
I'm assuming then that I have to pull the carb as suggested and clean it out thoroughly. Any other suggestions?
This morning I started with a multi-meter on the kill switch. I'm no genius with a multimeter, but I figured that with the switch in the ON position, I should have full continuity from pole to pole on the back of the switch. But apparently that's not how the switch works because it was in fact the opposite - full continuity only with the switch in the OFF position. Apparently the circuit has to be completed in order to kill the engine. Interesting. So my plan to jumper the switch was not a good one. Just to eliminate one of the variable, I removed the kill switch and just let the leads dangle.
Next I pulled the spark plug wire, held it over the engine block and cranked. No arc. So I pulled the spark plug, connected it to the spark plug wire and cranked. We have spark.
I'm assuming then that I have to pull the carb as suggested and clean it out thoroughly. Any other suggestions?
#6
BKBrown
BKBrown
If you can get at the adjustment screws -- make sure you know where they should be set - pull them out and spray in adjusting hole with carb cleaner - replace to correct setting - put some Seafoam or gumout (or some similar gas treatment) in the tank -- crank a little so the treatment can get into carb -- let it sit a while - try it again. That may work without taking the carb off. ---- If I'm wrong someone will correct me :laughing: !
Here's the model number - 030343
I'm assuming then that I have to pull the carb as suggested and clean it out thoroughly. Any other suggestions?
#7
mystreba
I actually don't have the tools to pull the carb - requires some kind of reverse-star-drive. I did, however, pull the holding tank off the bottom of the carb and cleaned it out. Cleaned the float. Parts are a little gummed up. Will see what happens....
mystreba
If you can get at the adjustment screws -- make sure you know where they should be set - pull them out and spray in adjusting hole with carb cleaner - replace to correct setting - put some Seafoam or gumout (or some similar gas treatment) in the tank -- crank a little so the treatment can get into carb -- let it sit a while - try it again. That may work without taking the carb off. ---- If I'm wrong someone will correct me :laughing: !
I actually don't have the tools to pull the carb - requires some kind of reverse-star-drive. I did, however, pull the holding tank off the bottom of the carb and cleaned it out. Cleaned the float. Parts are a little gummed up. Will see what happens....
#8
BKBrown
BKBrown
If you got the float bowl off the carb and cleaned the inside and clean the jets (where the adjusting screws go) ---- that should solve the problem. Good luck !
I actually don't have the tools to pull the carb - requires some kind of reverse-star-drive. I did, however, pull the holding tank off the bottom of the carb and cleaned it out. Cleaned the float. Parts are a little gummed up. Will see what happens....
#9
mystreba
...and the plot thickens...
There is a spring on the bottom of the float assembly - it rests on the bottom of the bowl and ostensibly maintains upward pressure on the float assembly to keep it tight against the carb/gasket. When I say it rests, I mean literally - there is nothing to hold it in place on the bottom of the bowl, and there is nothing to hold it in place on the float assembly. Bottom line - gravity assists the coming off part, but hinders the going-back-on part since there is nothing to hold the spring in place. I've tried it three times now, and each time it seems as though it goes together correctly. But then when I turn the gas line back on, after a few seconds the bowl fills up and then the gas comes pouring out of the choke area. So something is not sealing back up correctly.
I believe the bowl is intended to be put back on with the carburetor upside-down, so that gravity will hold everything in place.
So it appears that I have to remove the carb after all. See attached image of the screws - is this "reverse star-drive " tool something that I can find at a hardware store? Or should I just haul the thing off to the repair shop at this point?
(why don't they just put drains on the bottom of these bowls?! @#$%!!!)
mystreba
If you got the float bowl off the carb and cleaned the inside and clean the jets (where the adjusting screws go) ---- that should solve the problem. Good luck !
...and the plot thickens...
There is a spring on the bottom of the float assembly - it rests on the bottom of the bowl and ostensibly maintains upward pressure on the float assembly to keep it tight against the carb/gasket. When I say it rests, I mean literally - there is nothing to hold it in place on the bottom of the bowl, and there is nothing to hold it in place on the float assembly. Bottom line - gravity assists the coming off part, but hinders the going-back-on part since there is nothing to hold the spring in place. I've tried it three times now, and each time it seems as though it goes together correctly. But then when I turn the gas line back on, after a few seconds the bowl fills up and then the gas comes pouring out of the choke area. So something is not sealing back up correctly.
I believe the bowl is intended to be put back on with the carburetor upside-down, so that gravity will hold everything in place.
So it appears that I have to remove the carb after all. See attached image of the screws - is this "reverse star-drive " tool something that I can find at a hardware store? Or should I just haul the thing off to the repair shop at this point?
(why don't they just put drains on the bottom of these bowls?! @#$%!!!)
Attachments
#10
RobertBrown
Yes you can get and you should have a set.... at lowes or any place that sells tools.
My generator has the same set up but it has a drain on the carb bowl.
I suggest you go to walmart and get the B12 Chemtool carb cleaner, best I've found. You know it's good when it burns the cr@pp out of your hand if it gets on it.
Take some more pics of the carb on the motor and post before you give up. This is probably no big deal. Even if you have to replace the carb you will probably spend less than what the shop will charge.
RobertBrown
...and the plot thickens...
There is a spring on the bottom of the float assembly - it rests on the bottom of the bowl and ostensibly maintains upward pressure on the float assembly to keep it tight against the carb/gasket. When I say it rests, I mean literally - there is nothing to hold it in place on the bottom of the bowl, and there is nothing to hold it in place on the float assembly. Bottom line - gravity assists the coming off part, but hinders the going-back-on part since there is nothing to hold the spring in place. I've tried it three times now, and each time it seems as though it goes together correctly. But then when I turn the gas line back on, after a few seconds the bowl fills up and then the gas comes pouring out of the choke area. So something is not sealing back up correctly.
I believe the bowl is intended to be put back on with the carburetor upside-down, so that gravity will hold everything in place.
So it appears that I have to remove the carb after all. See attached image of the screws - is this "reverse star-drive " tool something that I can find at a hardware store? Or should I just haul the thing off to the repair shop at this point?
(why don't they just put drains on the bottom of these bowls?! @#$%!!!)
Yes you can get and you should have a set.... at lowes or any place that sells tools.
My generator has the same set up but it has a drain on the carb bowl.
I suggest you go to walmart and get the B12 Chemtool carb cleaner, best I've found. You know it's good when it burns the cr@pp out of your hand if it gets on it.
Take some more pics of the carb on the motor and post before you give up. This is probably no big deal. Even if you have to replace the carb you will probably spend less than what the shop will charge.
#11
mystreba
At this point I'll have to order the carb overhaul kit, since I'll probably need new gaskets after taking it off/apart. Meantime, I'll try to find the tool.
Here's a link to the carb parts schematic. Page 4. I have the Nikki.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=18nqxGXBnfBhU7y
Anyone have any suggestions for retro-fitting a drain into this bowl? It seems to be some kind of cast aluminum.
mystreba
Yes you can get and you should have a set.... at lowes or any place that sells tools.
My generator has the same set up but it has a drain on the carb bowl.
I suggest you go to walmart and get the B12 Chemtool carb cleaner, best I've found. You know it's good when it burns the cr@pp out of your hand if it gets on it.
Take some more pics of the carb on the motor and post before you give up. This is probably no big deal. Even if you have to replace the carb you will probably spend less than what the shop will charge.
At this point I'll have to order the carb overhaul kit, since I'll probably need new gaskets after taking it off/apart. Meantime, I'll try to find the tool.
Here's a link to the carb parts schematic. Page 4. I have the Nikki.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=18nqxGXBnfBhU7y
Anyone have any suggestions for retro-fitting a drain into this bowl? It seems to be some kind of cast aluminum.
#12
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
Like RobertBrown said... those sockets are available at most place that sell tools... They re spline sockets, come in metric and inch sizes... They are used a lot in setting studs...
Good luck with the carb. :smile:KennyV
Good luck with the carb. :smile:KennyV
#13
RobertBrown
If you feel like you need a gasket set by all means buy one but you can probably reuse the ones you have to see if you have the carb fixed, just to see if it will run smoothly. It's important to get to run smooth as it is a generator producing a sine wave at a specific frequency.
If you have to replace the carb then get the gaskets.
RobertBrown
Since you have it apart, look at the bolt that holds the carb bowl on the carb and see if it has ports through it (part#950}. Then look at the ports carefully and see if they are obstructed or partially clogged. This is one way gas gets to the carb.At this point I'll have to order the carb overhaul kit, since I'll probably need new gaskets after taking it off/apart. Meantime, I'll try to find the tool.
Here's a link to the carb parts schematic. Page 4. I have the Nikki.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=18nqxGXBnfBhU7y
Anyone have any suggestions for retro-fitting a drain into this bowl? It seems to be some kind of cast aluminum.
If you feel like you need a gasket set by all means buy one but you can probably reuse the ones you have to see if you have the carb fixed, just to see if it will run smoothly. It's important to get to run smooth as it is a generator producing a sine wave at a specific frequency.
If you have to replace the carb then get the gaskets.
#14
BKBrown
BKBrown
The only spring I see in the float bowl goes above the float - around the needle valve.
It would not make sense to have a spring holding the float up - the gas is supposed to raise the float to shut off the valve.
It would not make sense to have a spring holding the float up - the gas is supposed to raise the float to shut off the valve.
Here's a link to the carb parts schematic. Page 4. I have the Nikki.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=18nqxGXBnfBhU7yQUOTE]
#15
mystreba
Yeah, it appears that way in the diagram, but it's a poor rendering of the parts. See attached picture. The spring sits in a recess in the bottom of the float frame. Since the reservoir (bowl) doesn't contact the float frame when bolted in, there is nothing to keep the float frame tight against the carb body/gasket. The spring provides that tension to keep it tight. But I have discovered that you cannot possibly re-attach the bowl unless the carb is turned upside down so the spring stays in place in the recess while you tighten down the bowl. This is PI$$-POOR design! If they'd just bothered to install a drain, you'd never have to remove the bowl to drain it. But in the absence of a drain, if they'd just bothered to mold the recess into the BOWL rather than the float-frame, it could have been re-assembled in-place without having to remove the carburetor.
At any rate, I went to the hardware store, Home Depot and Lowes looking for "spline" sockets - no deal. I found that a regular 5/16 socket worked though. So I removed the carb, cleaned it, turned it upside down and properly re-attached the bowl. Put the carb back on and she fired right up. No leaks (so far), and all is well. Thanks everyone for the help.
Again, if anyone has a suggestion for retro-fitting a drain for this cast-aluminum bowl, that'd be fantastic. It's ridiculous that you have to take the carb off (and it is a PITA) in order to drain the old gas out of the carb.
mystreba
The only spring I see in the float bowl goes above the float - around the needle valve.
It would not make sense to have a spring holding the float up - the gas is supposed to raise the float to shut off the valve.
Yeah, it appears that way in the diagram, but it's a poor rendering of the parts. See attached picture. The spring sits in a recess in the bottom of the float frame. Since the reservoir (bowl) doesn't contact the float frame when bolted in, there is nothing to keep the float frame tight against the carb body/gasket. The spring provides that tension to keep it tight. But I have discovered that you cannot possibly re-attach the bowl unless the carb is turned upside down so the spring stays in place in the recess while you tighten down the bowl. This is PI$$-POOR design! If they'd just bothered to install a drain, you'd never have to remove the bowl to drain it. But in the absence of a drain, if they'd just bothered to mold the recess into the BOWL rather than the float-frame, it could have been re-assembled in-place without having to remove the carburetor.
At any rate, I went to the hardware store, Home Depot and Lowes looking for "spline" sockets - no deal. I found that a regular 5/16 socket worked though. So I removed the carb, cleaned it, turned it upside down and properly re-attached the bowl. Put the carb back on and she fired right up. No leaks (so far), and all is well. Thanks everyone for the help.
Again, if anyone has a suggestion for retro-fitting a drain for this cast-aluminum bowl, that'd be fantastic. It's ridiculous that you have to take the carb off (and it is a PITA) in order to drain the old gas out of the carb.
Attachments
#16
BKBrown
OK -- usually parts drawings are more correctly done.
I'd probably install (if there isn't one) a shut off valve on the gas tank. Get some Marine Formula blue
Sta-Bil (better for the Ethanol Gas) and the last time before putting it away -- use some of the Sta-Bil -- turn gas tank off -- run engine until it quits so that there isn't much if any gas in the carb. -- then drain the tank and put in new gas next time you use it.
link to Sta-Bil (Gold Eagle) web site http://www.goldeagle.com/products/product3CC6.aspx
Drilling and tapping a float bowl and finding a plug that isn't too deep is possible, but not the easiest solution.
BKBrown
Again, if anyone has a suggestion for retro-fitting a drain for this cast-aluminum bowl, that'd be fantastic. It's ridiculous that you have to take the carb off (and it IS a PITA) in order to drain the old gas out of the carb.
OK -- usually parts drawings are more correctly done.
I'd probably install (if there isn't one) a shut off valve on the gas tank. Get some Marine Formula blue
Sta-Bil (better for the Ethanol Gas) and the last time before putting it away -- use some of the Sta-Bil -- turn gas tank off -- run engine until it quits so that there isn't much if any gas in the carb. -- then drain the tank and put in new gas next time you use it.
link to Sta-Bil (Gold Eagle) web site http://www.goldeagle.com/products/product3CC6.aspx
Drilling and tapping a float bowl and finding a plug that isn't too deep is possible, but not the easiest solution.
#17
RobertBrown
Great! I'm glad you fixed it. Typically I run the gas out of the carb by closing the fuel shut off valve and allowing the engine to stall, won't get all of the gas but it willl get most. Retrofitting a drain is tough. I would goes as far to say it's beyond the realm of possibility. There might be a replacement bowl you could buy that already has a drain, like the one that is on my carb and just swap them out if the diameters are the same. Could be the case, rather then redesign the whole carb body same bowl that fits one will fit another.
RobertBrown
Yeah, it appears that way in the diagram, but it's a poor rendering of the parts. See attached picture. The spring sits in a recess in the bottom of the float frame. Since the reservoir (bowl) doesn't contact the float frame when bolted in, there is nothing to keep the float frame tight against the carb body/gasket. The spring provides that tension to keep it tight. But I have discovered that you cannot possibly re-attach the bowl unless the carb is turned upside down so the spring stays in place in the recess while you tighten down the bowl. This is PI$$-POOR design! If they'd just bothered to install a drain, you'd never have to remove the bowl to drain it. But in the absence of a drain, if they'd just bothered to mold the recess into the BOWL rather than the float-frame, it could have been re-assembled in-place without having to remove the carburetor.
At any rate, I went to the hardware store, Home Depot and Lowes looking for "spline" sockets - no deal. I found that a regular 5/16 socket worked though. So I removed the carb, cleaned it, turned it upside down and properly re-attached the bowl. Put the carb back on and she fired right up. No leaks (so far), and all is well. Thanks everyone for the help.
Again, if anyone has a suggestion for retro-fitting a drain for this cast-aluminum bowl, that'd be fantastic. It's ridiculous that you have to take the carb off (and it is a PITA) in order to drain the old gas out of the carb.
Great! I'm glad you fixed it. Typically I run the gas out of the carb by closing the fuel shut off valve and allowing the engine to stall, won't get all of the gas but it willl get most. Retrofitting a drain is tough. I would goes as far to say it's beyond the realm of possibility. There might be a replacement bowl you could buy that already has a drain, like the one that is on my carb and just swap them out if the diameters are the same. Could be the case, rather then redesign the whole carb body same bowl that fits one will fit another.
#18
RobertBrown
Looks to me like they repalced the extension spring with a compression spring to operate the needle and seat, but it's hard to say. I have not seen one like that.
RobertBrown
Yeah, it appears that way in the diagram, but it's a poor rendering of the parts. See attached picture. The spring sits in a recess in the bottom of the float frame. Since the reservoir (bowl) doesn't contact the float frame when bolted in, there is nothing to keep the float frame tight against the carb body/gasket. The spring provides that tension to keep it tight. But I have discovered that you cannot possibly re-attach the bowl unless the carb is turned upside down so the spring stays in place in the recess while you tighten down the bowl. This is PI$$-POOR design! If they'd just bothered to install a drain, you'd never have to remove the bowl to drain it. But in the absence of a drain, if they'd just bothered to mold the recess into the BOWL rather than the float-frame, it could have been re-assembled in-place without having to remove the carburetor.
At any rate, I went to the hardware store, Home Depot and Lowes looking for "spline" sockets - no deal. I found that a regular 5/16 socket worked though. So I removed the carb, cleaned it, turned it upside down and properly re-attached the bowl. Put the carb back on and she fired right up. No leaks (so far), and all is well. Thanks everyone for the help.
Again, if anyone has a suggestion for retro-fitting a drain for this cast-aluminum bowl, that'd be fantastic. It's ridiculous that you have to take the carb off (and it is a PITA) in order to drain the old gas out of the carb.
Looks to me like they repalced the extension spring with a compression spring to operate the needle and seat, but it's hard to say. I have not seen one like that.
#19
mystreba
The spring is not connected in any way to the float. It's sole purpose is to keep the float frame tight to the gasket. The float itself has no spring, but does have a shut-off pin (item 105a in the diagram) that operates separately from the spring.
mystreba
Looks to me like they repalced the extension spring with a compression spring to operate the needle and seat, but it's hard to say. I have not seen one like that.
The spring is not connected in any way to the float. It's sole purpose is to keep the float frame tight to the gasket. The float itself has no spring, but does have a shut-off pin (item 105a in the diagram) that operates separately from the spring.
#20
mystreba
There is a shut-off valve - I'll definitely use it to run the gas out of the system next time.
mystreba
OK -- usually parts drawings are more correctly done.
I'd probably install (if there isn't one) a shut off valve on the gas tank. Get some Marine Formula blue
Sta-Bil (better for the Ethanol Gas) and the last time before putting it away -- use some of the Sta-Bil -- turn gas tank off -- run engine until it quits so that there isn't much if any gas in the carb. -- then drain the tank and put in new gas next time you use it.
link to Sta-Bil (Gold Eagle) web site Deprecated Browser Error
Drilling and tapping a float bowl and finding a plug that isn't too deep is possible, but not the easiest solution.
There is a shut-off valve - I'll definitely use it to run the gas out of the system next time.
#21
RobertBrown
I think the spring is a gratuitous item ment to counteract vibration, extending the life of the bowl gasket.
RobertBrown
I can't find it in the parts description but 105a looks like the needle.The spring is not connected in any way to the float. It's sole purpose is to keep the float frame tight to the gasket. The float itself has no spring, but does have a shut-off pin (item 105a in the diagram) that operates separately from the spring.
I think the spring is a gratuitous item ment to counteract vibration, extending the life of the bowl gasket.
#22
mystreba
Yes, 105a is the needle - I'm afraid I'm not very good with the terminology! But the spring isn't superfluous - it's an integral part of the assembly. See attached diagram - it's crude, but you get the idea. Although the bowl "shares" the gasket with the float frame, the bowl does not in fact hold the float frame tight against the gasket. So without the spring, gravity would make the float frame fall away from the gasket and rest in the bottom of the bowl.
I think this is poor design - the bowl itself should hold the float frame in place. And the design (bad as it is) is poorly executed since there is nothing to hold the spring in place - you cannot reattach the bowl unless the carburetor is upside down. There is nothing to hold the spring in the float frame recess, and nothing to hold the spring in place in the bowl, so gravity works against you.
(I've removed the float mechanism itself in order to simplify the diagram - it attaches to the float frame and pivots up and down independently)
mystreba
I can't find it in the parts description but 105a looks like the needle.
I think the spring is a gratuitous item ment to counteract vibration, extending the life of the bowl gasket.
Yes, 105a is the needle - I'm afraid I'm not very good with the terminology! But the spring isn't superfluous - it's an integral part of the assembly. See attached diagram - it's crude, but you get the idea. Although the bowl "shares" the gasket with the float frame, the bowl does not in fact hold the float frame tight against the gasket. So without the spring, gravity would make the float frame fall away from the gasket and rest in the bottom of the bowl.
I think this is poor design - the bowl itself should hold the float frame in place. And the design (bad as it is) is poorly executed since there is nothing to hold the spring in place - you cannot reattach the bowl unless the carburetor is upside down. There is nothing to hold the spring in the float frame recess, and nothing to hold the spring in place in the bowl, so gravity works against you.
(I've removed the float mechanism itself in order to simplify the diagram - it attaches to the float frame and pivots up and down independently)
Attachments
#23
RobertBrown
That makes finding a replacement bowl with a drain that much harder. I was going to suggest using a micrometer to measure the diameter and if it's the same as mine you could order that part for your machine. They both are briggs motors. But it's got to be the correct depth in order for the spring design to function properly.....I think.
RobertBrown
Yes, 105a is the needle - I'm afraid I'm not very good with the terminology! But the spring isn't superfluous - it's an integral part of the assembly. See attached diagram - it's crude, but you get the idea. Although the bowl "shares" the gasket with the float frame, the bowl does not in fact hold the float frame tight against the gasket. So without the spring, gravity would make the float frame fall away from the gasket and rest in the bottom of the bowl.
I think this is poor design - the bowl itself should hold the float frame in place. And the design (bad as it is) is poorly executed since there is nothing to hold the spring in place - you cannot reattach the bowl unless the carburetor is upside down. There is nothing to hold the spring in the float frame recess, and nothing to hold the spring in place in the bowl, so gravity works against you.
(I've removed the float mechanism itself in order to simplify the diagram - it attaches to the float frame and pivots up and down independently)
That makes finding a replacement bowl with a drain that much harder. I was going to suggest using a micrometer to measure the diameter and if it's the same as mine you could order that part for your machine. They both are briggs motors. But it's got to be the correct depth in order for the spring design to function properly.....I think.