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G6 blades vs. Scag standard equipment
#1
55TBird
55TBird
I noticed some mention of G6 blades in a thread about leaves, so I checked out the Oregon web site. They sound great (according to their marketing copy). My mower is new, works great and I'm not ready to change anything, but I'd like to hear reviews on the G6 blades from those who have experience with them. Are they noticeably better than Scag blades?
Also, I'd like to know how often you sharpen your blades. How much trouble is it on a 61" TT deck? Is that tool that holds your blades still worth buying? Do you use an angle grinder to sharpen your blades and do you balance them?
Also, I'd like to know how often you sharpen your blades. How much trouble is it on a 61" TT deck? Is that tool that holds your blades still worth buying? Do you use an angle grinder to sharpen your blades and do you balance them?
#2
D
Darryl G
D
Darryl G
I run G6 blades on my Exmarks and they are a good all-around blade. They give a finer clipping yet still give pretty good suction and discharge velocity. The G6 blades are pretty thick and you do need some hp to spin them. The G5 blades are the same design just thinner metal, same as standard blades I think. I have those on my Bob-Cat. I used to use high lifts blades for peak growth and Gator blades for spring and fall to grind stuff up. Now it's just one blade all season.
#3
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
I tried G6 blades on my 48" Tiger Cub, they are 3" wide, thicker and as mentioned need HP to keep them turning fast enough.
The downside of G6 blades is increased damage possibilities to the deck from these heavy blades. I have been using G5 blades for several years and although I don't see any great advantage to using them, I have noticed that the clippings are smaller as I use a collection system most of the time. I also feel that the G5s keep their sharpness longer than the stock Scag blades for my machine which are extra high lift. I also use the G5s all season and change blades to sharpen 2-3 times a season. My season is about 200 hours including spring and fall cleanup when I use a front mounted spring tine de thatcher, nice attachment along with a collection system.
As deck size increases, the blades get longer and heavier.
My thoughts!:laughing::biggrin::smile:
The downside of G6 blades is increased damage possibilities to the deck from these heavy blades. I have been using G5 blades for several years and although I don't see any great advantage to using them, I have noticed that the clippings are smaller as I use a collection system most of the time. I also feel that the G5s keep their sharpness longer than the stock Scag blades for my machine which are extra high lift. I also use the G5s all season and change blades to sharpen 2-3 times a season. My season is about 200 hours including spring and fall cleanup when I use a front mounted spring tine de thatcher, nice attachment along with a collection system.
As deck size increases, the blades get longer and heavier.
My thoughts!:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#4
C
clay45
C
clay45
I tried them on my 52" TigerCat. Had to trim a "finger" off one a bit to clear a support under my deck but otherwise they bolted up and ran fine. I tried some lighter "G" blades too and have gone back to SCAG Std issue marbain blades.
#5
jekjr
jekjr
We have run some on our Tiger Cats with a mulch plate blocking the discharge. We only do leaves with them however. We run Oregon blades the rest of the time and change them in the morning and when Bahia grass gets heavy in the summer we change them again at lunch many days.
#6
55TBird
55TBird
Any tips on sharpening?
A buddy of mine says he sharpens his blades before every mow! (But then he is one of those guys who if you said you caught a 10 lb. bass he'd have caught a 20 pounder.) I think he does have one of those mowers with the tilt-up deck in the front, so I guess he can sharpen without taking them off. Still...every time? Just shoot me.
I use an angle grinder...not sure if that is a common practice or not. I hope nobody is going to tell me they use a file.
I also assume that since Scag sells the thing to keep your blades from turning that that would be useful. That would've been handy on my last zero turn mower.
A buddy of mine says he sharpens his blades before every mow! (But then he is one of those guys who if you said you caught a 10 lb. bass he'd have caught a 20 pounder.) I think he does have one of those mowers with the tilt-up deck in the front, so I guess he can sharpen without taking them off. Still...every time? Just shoot me.
I use an angle grinder...not sure if that is a common practice or not. I hope nobody is going to tell me they use a file.
I also assume that since Scag sells the thing to keep your blades from turning that that would be useful. That would've been handy on my last zero turn mower.
#7
7394
7394
After almost each mow & I clean the underside, I feel the blade cutting edges. If I feel a nick or something minor, I will use a hand file to fix it.
But as to regular sharpening, I & many others here have posted using a flap wheel on the cutting edge (obviously off the mower) then balance.
I've watched a neighbor use a angle grinder on his, but he takes off WAY too much material. So, in moderation, just what's needed removed should be fine, but balancing however you do is recommended for sure.
But as to regular sharpening, I & many others here have posted using a flap wheel on the cutting edge (obviously off the mower) then balance.
I've watched a neighbor use a angle grinder on his, but he takes off WAY too much material. So, in moderation, just what's needed removed should be fine, but balancing however you do is recommended for sure.
#8
C
clay45
C
clay45
I sharpen approximately every 3rd mowing of my place. Lots of sand in the dust out here. I prefer to drive up on ramps with front end leaving clearance for my left side spindle bolt. I drop all blades and set in vice. Use flap disc to sharpen and balance each blade. I use a putty knife to scrape the sides clean too. Check underside of deck and scrape if necessary before greasing spindles and reattaching blades. I use a Ryobi 18v electric cordless impact driver to spin the nut off/on.
#9
55TBird
Uh....
Unfamiliar with the term, I looked up "flap disk" and that is what I have always used on my angle grinder. A disk with layers of sand paper....the grit determines how much I take off. Is there a flap disk used on something other than an angle grinder?
The cordless impact driver sounds like a good idea. I do have an impact wrench I use with a compressor, but cordless would save time. I've always just used a couple of big sockets and breaker bars. I suppose if you use it it must have enough torque.
The ramps might help too. My problem is that I'm old and getting down on the concrete floor (and getting back up) is hard...so I tend to put off sharpening the blades.
What I really need is a magic wand. Bipity bopity boo. *poof* Done.
55TBird
I sharpen approximately every 3rd mowing of my place. Lots of sand in the dust out here. I prefer to drive up on ramps with front end leaving clearance for my left side spindle bolt. I drop all blades and set in vice. Use flap disc to sharpen and balance each blade. I use a putty knife to scrape the sides clean too. Check underside of deck and scrape if necessary before greasing spindles and reattaching blades. I use a Ryobi 18v electric cordless impact driver to spin the nut off/on.
Uh....
Unfamiliar with the term, I looked up "flap disk" and that is what I have always used on my angle grinder. A disk with layers of sand paper....the grit determines how much I take off. Is there a flap disk used on something other than an angle grinder?
The cordless impact driver sounds like a good idea. I do have an impact wrench I use with a compressor, but cordless would save time. I've always just used a couple of big sockets and breaker bars. I suppose if you use it it must have enough torque.
The ramps might help too. My problem is that I'm old and getting down on the concrete floor (and getting back up) is hard...so I tend to put off sharpening the blades.
What I really need is a magic wand. Bipity bopity boo. *poof* Done.
#10
C
clay45
Mine is an 18v Bright green Ryobi cordless impact wrench with a Harbor Freight Impact deep socket (15/16") . Because my mower tends to push the ramps away on smooth concrete I use a Heavy solid rubber wheel chock on the back of each ramp to keep it still while I climb up, set my parking brake, and the quickly dismount and move each chock behind a rear wheel.
Being an 18v cordless electric it doesn't have the power to tear up anything on my spindle bolts. I don't need any backup to remove or reinstall my blades. Makes it a fairly quick process. Getting up and down are problems for me as well.
C
clay45
Uh....
Unfamiliar with the term, I looked up "flap disk" and that is what I have always used on my angle grinder. A disk with layers of sand paper....the grit determines how much I take off. Is there a flap disk used on something other than an angle grinder?
The cordless impact driver sounds like a good idea. I do have an impact wrench I use with a compressor, but cordless would save time. I've always just used a couple of big sockets and breaker bars. I suppose if you use it it must have enough torque.
The ramps might help too. My problem is that I'm old and getting down on the concrete floor (and getting back up) is hard...so I tend to put off sharpening the blades.
What I really need is a magic wand. Bipity bopity boo. *poof* Done.
Mine is an 18v Bright green Ryobi cordless impact wrench with a Harbor Freight Impact deep socket (15/16") . Because my mower tends to push the ramps away on smooth concrete I use a Heavy solid rubber wheel chock on the back of each ramp to keep it still while I climb up, set my parking brake, and the quickly dismount and move each chock behind a rear wheel.
Being an 18v cordless electric it doesn't have the power to tear up anything on my spindle bolts. I don't need any backup to remove or reinstall my blades. Makes it a fairly quick process. Getting up and down are problems for me as well.
#11
primerbulb120
primerbulb120
Good luck trying to sharpen G6 blades with a file. It would take me about 3 hours to do mine if I tried that. :laughing: I use an angle grinder with a grinding wheel. Flap disc works okay for normal blades, but for G6 you need a grinder.Any tips on sharpening?
A buddy of mine says he sharpens his blades before every mow! (But then he is one of those guys who if you said you caught a 10 lb. bass he'd have caught a 20 pounder.) I think he does have one of those mowers with the tilt-up deck in the front, so I guess he can sharpen without taking them off. Still...every time? Just shoot me.
I use an angle grinder...not sure if that is a common practice or not. I hope nobody is going to tell me they use a file.
I also assume that since Scag sells the thing to keep your blades from turning that that would be useful. That would've been handy on my last zero turn mower.
#12
55TBird
The ramps sliding away is exactly what happened to me when I tried that a while back. It also seemed like the ramps wound up being in the way since they were behind the front wheels. Not to mention getting them down off the hook on the wall and putting them back up. I'm not usually lazy but sharpening blades is so easy to put off until next week.
55TBird
Mine is an 18v Bright green Ryobi cordless impact wrench with a Harbor Freight Impact deep socket (15/16") . Because my mower tends to push the ramps away on smooth concrete I use a Heavy solid rubber wheel chock on the back of each ramp to keep it still while I climb up, set my parking brake, and the quickly dismount and move each chock behind a rear wheel.
Being an 18v cordless electric it doesn't have the power to tear up anything on my spindle bolts. I don't need any backup to remove or reinstall my blades. Makes it a fairly quick process. Getting up and down are problems for me as well.
The ramps sliding away is exactly what happened to me when I tried that a while back. It also seemed like the ramps wound up being in the way since they were behind the front wheels. Not to mention getting them down off the hook on the wall and putting them back up. I'm not usually lazy but sharpening blades is so easy to put off until next week.
#13
C
clay45
I know it. But then the time to go back over what could've been a single pass will teach you not to put it off. Since we mow mostly horse pasture some of the stuff is pretty tough. Its not the sharpening and balancing so much as its getting set up and me getting down and up. I like the ramps because they leave the space between the front wheels open. Especially handy so I can reach under and hold the blade in my hand while unbolting the top to drop the blade out. The blade, spacer, and bolt all come out still assembled in my hand. On my 52" I have to take care not to pull up on the left ramp all the way. I leave the front wheel at the rear of the dip which positions the spindle just far enough back to be able to wiggle the bolt clear all fully assembled usually in my hand. Once I've dropped all three blades I leave the spindle nuts on top of the deck and take each of the blade assemblies to a mop sink to clean, scrape, etc. before I head to the vice. I find the flap disk easily sharpened any blade I've tried. When we first started to conquer the wild a neighbor bush hogged a few places but didn't do too much due to all the trash, bottles, and metal scap we discovered. I acquired a small Yanmar and purchased a landscape rake and used it to comb out as much as I could. The briars and berry brambles were the worst and a good bit of the weeds were nearly 6 ft tall and very dense. It obscured many bricks, concrete scrap, glass, from view. After combing it out and carrying much over to a burn area I would ease into it with my TigerCat at transport height. While tedious it did great. Never have needed a bushhog again. When I learned my neighbor was shopping zero turns I lent him my SCAG catalog and wrote the dealers address and number that I used. A week later he returned with a Cheetah 61" and listed the finish mower he'd been pulling around for sale. :biggrin:
C
clay45
The ramps sliding away is exactly what happened to me when I tried that a while back. It also seemed like the ramps wound up being in the way since they were behind the front wheels. Not to mention getting them down off the hook on the wall and putting them back up. I'm not usually lazy but sharpening blades is so easy to put off until next week.
I know it. But then the time to go back over what could've been a single pass will teach you not to put it off. Since we mow mostly horse pasture some of the stuff is pretty tough. Its not the sharpening and balancing so much as its getting set up and me getting down and up. I like the ramps because they leave the space between the front wheels open. Especially handy so I can reach under and hold the blade in my hand while unbolting the top to drop the blade out. The blade, spacer, and bolt all come out still assembled in my hand. On my 52" I have to take care not to pull up on the left ramp all the way. I leave the front wheel at the rear of the dip which positions the spindle just far enough back to be able to wiggle the bolt clear all fully assembled usually in my hand. Once I've dropped all three blades I leave the spindle nuts on top of the deck and take each of the blade assemblies to a mop sink to clean, scrape, etc. before I head to the vice. I find the flap disk easily sharpened any blade I've tried. When we first started to conquer the wild a neighbor bush hogged a few places but didn't do too much due to all the trash, bottles, and metal scap we discovered. I acquired a small Yanmar and purchased a landscape rake and used it to comb out as much as I could. The briars and berry brambles were the worst and a good bit of the weeds were nearly 6 ft tall and very dense. It obscured many bricks, concrete scrap, glass, from view. After combing it out and carrying much over to a burn area I would ease into it with my TigerCat at transport height. While tedious it did great. Never have needed a bushhog again. When I learned my neighbor was shopping zero turns I lent him my SCAG catalog and wrote the dealers address and number that I used. A week later he returned with a Cheetah 61" and listed the finish mower he'd been pulling around for sale. :biggrin: