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charging fuse getting hot melts fuse changed regulator fuse gets hot when running put blades on it really gets hot enough to burn you &melts the fuse but no other wire gets hot main power fuse gets hot but not like the charging fuse it on a tiger cub 19 hp. Kawasaki .How you check the draw on the clutch for the blades .grass getting high lol

tub said:

charging fuse getting hot melts fuse changed regulator fuse gets hot when running put blades on it really gets hot enough to burn you &melts the fuse but no other wire gets hot main power fuse gets hot but not like the charging fuse it on a tiger cub 19 hp. Kawasaki .How you check the draw on the clutch for the blades .grass getting high lol

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With a amperage gage.

no just with a volt meter

tub said:

no just with a volt meter

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No a amp meter. Amps is the amount of electric flowing through a wire. 30 amps flowing through a 20 amp fuse will burn it out.

tub said:

no just with a volt meter

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Ampacity,*in the electrical code, refers to the current, measured in amperes, that a conductor (a wire) can carry continuously under the conditions of use without exceeding its temperature rating - in other words, the ampacity of a #14 gauge copper wire intended for residential electrical wiring is 15 Amps because that's the amount of current that the wire can carry without getting too hot. "Too hot" means a temperature that could damage the wire insulation and thus reduce its safety.

reynoldston said:

Ampacity,*in the electrical code, refers to the current, measured in amperes, that a conductor (a wire) can carry continuously under the conditions of use without exceeding its temperature rating - in other words, the ampacity of a #14 gauge copper wire intended for residential electrical wiring is 15 Amps because that's the amount of current that the wire can carry without getting too hot. "Too hot" means a temperature that could damage the wire insulation and thus reduce its safety.

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my resistance on my pto.clutch is 1.3 can you adjust the clutch to help the resistance that is what making my fuses getting hot and if i have to replace the clutch how do i get it off with a puller or what. the volts with the clutch on 10.5 wires at fuse get hot quit on the charging fuse do not have a amp meter right now

sounds like your clutch coil is toast. taking the center bolt out will let the clutch drop down. notice how the pto is held in place before removing.

NorthBama said:

sounds like your clutch coil is toast. taking the center bolt out will let the clutch drop down. notice how the pto is held in place before removing.

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well replace fuse holders they stop getting hot i well replace the clutch when it quits thanks for the help .

tub said:

well replace fuse holders they stop getting hot i well replace the clutch when it quits thanks for the help .

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well had to replace clutch blowed fuse to chargeing system .Now I replace relay when all this started and then the switch all was bad now the trouble is the safety switch for the blades start the mower setting on set it starts up with brake on off the set pull the handle bars in the mower should stop but it dont pull the blade switch on mower sitll dont stop all switchs set handles bars & brake switches omh out ok with the blade switch on and the mower off and you tried to start the mower it wont start even with setting on set push blade switch off it starts if you aint on the set it wont start it just wont cut off with handle bars or the set if you take the wires off the blade switch it still runs i can mowe but it aint safe HELP.

This is a topic discussed before. A good DVM has a current setting up to 10 amps DC, maybe more. I believe the clutch uses DC like most of the rest of a tractor system. I believe the running current of a "good" clutch was once mentioned here as up to 15 amps (memory), which would blow the little fuse inside my DVM (10 amp max and replaceable). Another problem seems like the running setup...open the connector on the clutch wire and insert the DVM in SERIES on the line without chewing up the setup while briefly using the clutch. I have not done this, but did once check an electric fuel pump on an older Audi which specified a running current of about 12 amps, I believe. It passed. Perhaps others will respond.

motoman said:

This is a topic discussed before. A good DVM has a current setting up to 10 amps DC, maybe more. I believe the clutch uses DC like most of the rest of a tractor system. I believe the running current of a "good" clutch was once mentioned here as up to 15 amps (memory), which would blow the little fuse inside my DVM (10 amp max and replaceable). Another problem seems like the running setup...open the connector on the clutch wire and insert the DVM in SERIES on the line without chewing up the setup while briefly using the clutch. I have not done this, but did once check an electric fuel pump on an older Audi which specified a running current of about 12 amps, I believe. It passed. Perhaps others will respond.

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Is there a way to check the safety modual with a volt meter dont have a amp meter the dc.volts going to clutch is 14 when running wide open same volts going to battery

Ok had to change the interlock modual Thanks for the help got the little tiger up and running all safteys working now with a little tlc. and a few parts and help from yall grass has been mowed the dog dont get lost now thanks agin TUB .