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I have a 2 cycle lawn boy mower. Deck model #7265 and the engine is a Scamp Lawn Boy engine. It has a carburetor off of my dad's 10301 lawnboy. Really want this one to last without the needle bearings on the crankk going bad. What do octane should I be using? And which oil brand?

Run the lowest octane you can get unless the manufacturer says otherwise.

I have two chainsaws, one mower and one trimmer. Only the trimmer is supposed to have higher octane fuel.

Any good 2-cycle oil will work. Run it at the mfg's recommended ratio, not more.

I know there's going to be a LOT of screaming over this post !

I've been using this synthetic for over 20 years , NEVER ! ! a problem ! ! !



http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=165

87 non ethanol if you can find it or you can use a conditioner to help the issues with alcohol in older equipment, I would just mix at 32 to 1 with basically any 2-stroke oil. A synthetic is not going to build up in the exhaust port and foul the plug that tends to happen with conventional oils.

lewb said:

87 non ethanol if you can find it

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Yes. It's well worth the effort to find non-ethanol gas.

lewb said:

87 non ethanol if you can find it or you can use a conditioner to help the issues with alcohol in older equipment, I would just mix at 32 to 1 with basically any 2-stroke oil. A synthetic is not going to build up in the exhaust port and foul the plug that tends to happen with conventional oils.

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I see YOU know your stuff ! Every 2 cycle engine I have screams like a Banshee, and never smokes either, ( my biggest complaint) It does scare the hell out of guys when you say I mix 100 to 1 ratio, ( actually I use 1.4 oz. Opti-2 to a correctly measured Gallon of gas ) a little safety factor (for me) ..:thumbsup:

There is no safety factor in mixing more that the specified amount of oil in two-cycle gas. There is a downside--that extra oil forms carbon inside the engine, from the combustion chamber all the way out the exhaust.

I have yet to see a manufacturer recommend a 100:1 mix but 50:1 is common and works just fine IF that's what the mfg specifies.

cpurvis said:

There is no safety factor in mixing more that the specified amount of oil in two-cycle gas. There is a downside--that extra oil forms carbon inside the engine, from the combustion chamber all the way out the exhaust.

I have yet to see a manufacturer recommend a 100:1 mix but 50:1 is common and works just fine IF that's what the mfg specifies.

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I refuse to argue with ignorance, LIKE I SAID .... NEVER a problem , don't knock it till you've tried it !

Ignorance? I recommend that a person do what the book (written by the engineers who designed the engine) says and I'm the ignorant one?

Thank you all for the advice! I'll give the synthetic oil a try! And I can get 87 octane but it has that ethanol crap in it I was wondering if anyone has used Sta-bil before? My uncle uses the red stuff for his boat and I was wondering if the blue stuff would be worth giving a try? Again, I appreciate everyone's advice :smile:

PistolPete96 said:

Thank you all for the advice! I'll give the synthetic oil a try! And I can get 87 octane but it has that ethanol crap in it I was wondering if anyone has used Sta-bil before? My uncle uses the red stuff for his boat and I was wondering if the blue stuff would be worth giving a try? Again, I appreciate everyone's advice :smile:

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Go back and re-read the literature, Opti-2 has a fuel-conditioner for ethanol built-in , also you can locate a dealer on the site !

Gasohol isn't the best for lawn equipment. It doesn't store as well and is hygroscopic. Small engine mechanics are very emphatic on this point, although old stale fuel does bring a lot of extra business their way. You can use a stabilizer to extend shelf life but it won't keep water or moisture away or phase separation.

In the amounts used for the typical suburban homeowner a 5 gallon can of straight gasoline is the way to go. If we don't get a lot of snow 5 gallons lasts me almost a year for both lawn and snow removal duty. You can find where straight gasoline is sold here: http://www.pure-gas.org

One thing people overlook with 2 strokes is the actual fuel/air mix. Keep in mind more oil than recommended LEANS out the air fuel ratio. It's important that the oil isn't overdosed or excessive carbon can buildup but an overich fuel condition too will foul plugs. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil with fresh fuel at their recommended mix ratio, and tweak the "altitude" screw for a slight four stroke sound at idle, it should not run smooth at idle just slightly rich, but settle into the smooth LawnBoy "power hum" when under load in thick grass. This point will change slightly if the temperatures swings widely. 60° will need to be richer than 95°.

Experiment a bit and you'll soon see just a VERY slight turn of the screw makes a big difference in the AFR. Check the plugs for a somewhat tan appearance, they won't burn as clean as a 4 stroke though plugs should not be black or fouled with oil.

I run all of my lawn and garden equipment from a five gallon can with Seafoam added. I pour into a one gallon can to mix my 2 stroke fuel for ease of measurement. Very careful to ensure 32:1 ratio is followed. Always full synthetic oil. Lawnboy Scamp, Toro S-200 snowblower, Ryobi weedwacker, two chainsaws have been on this fuel "diet" for 15+ years, never a fuel related issue with any of them. Ive put them away wet and they fire right up after four or five months. Same with the rider and leaf blower. Everyone does different, just saying what works for me.

My 1953 Lawnboy still runs and it started it's life on a manufacturer recommend 16:1 mix of gas and 30w oil.
The lesson here is to abide by the recommended mix ratios. I'm sure advancements have been made in oil quality as time goes by, so if you adhere to recommend mix ratios it will only serve to prolong the life of your classic engine.
Leaning your ratios to 50:1 is experimenting on your classic engine. If I want to experiment on an engine, I would do it on something newer with better parts availability.
I use Sta-Bil in my ethenol gas.
Lee

Kerry said:

I run all of my lawn and garden equipment from a five gallon can with Seafoam added. I pour into a one gallon can to mix my 2 stroke fuel for ease of measurement. Very careful to ensure 32:1 ratio is followed. Always full synthetic oil. Lawnboy Scamp, Toro S-200 snowblower, Ryobi weedwacker, two chainsaws have been on this fuel "diet" for 15+ years, never a fuel related issue with any of them. Ive put them away wet and they fire right up after four or five months. Same with the rider and leaf blower. Everyone does different, just saying what works for me.

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Then you are one of the lucky ones.
There is no rhyme nor apparent reason but so many things come in like where you store your tools.
In a garage attached to or under a house will retard fuel dedregation where as in a tin shed detached from the house in full sun will speed things up, then there is the span of temperatures, relative night time humidity etc etc etc.
The tools hanging on my peg boards go rusty in summer, the landlord who lives 500 yards away does not have this problem at any time of the year.

PistolPete96 said:

Thank you all for the advice! I'll give the synthetic oil a try! And I can get 87 octane but it has that ethanol crap in it I was wondering if anyone has used Sta-bil before? My uncle uses the red stuff for his boat and I was wondering if the blue stuff would be worth giving a try? Again, I appreciate everyone's advice :smile:

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While the manual may suggest low octane fuel. I believe your equipment (and the manual) were produced before ethanol became an issue. I suggest a higher octane fuel which is what manufacturers always recommend post-ethanol. Make certain the 2-stroke oil you use is not marine. Sta-bil is a good product but isn't necessary provided you use up the gas in less than 60 days.

bertsmobile1 said:

Then you are one of the lucky ones.
There is no rhyme nor apparent reason but so many things come in like where you store your tools.
In a garage attached to or under a house will retard fuel dedregation where as in a tin shed detached from the house in full sun will speed things up, then there is the span of temperatures, relative night time humidity etc etc etc.
The tools hanging on my peg boards go rusty in summer, the landlord who lives 500 yards away does not have this problem at any time of the year.

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Detatched two stall garage and 12 by 12 shed, both wood construction. Summer temps hit low 90s, winters can hit single digits. Humidity lately has been terrible, but a cooldown is coming in a couple days. I don't believe in luck, but I believe in Seafoam. I still think its why I have no issues.

Pale oil, naptha, and ethanol. Isn't that what's on Seafoam's SDS?

aka, mineral oil, lighter fluid and alcohol.

TonyPrin said:

While the manual may suggest low octane fuel. I believe your equipment (and the manual) were produced before ethanol became an issue. I suggest a higher octane fuel which is what manufacturers always recommend post-ethanol. Make certain the 2-stroke oil you use is not marine. Sta-bil is a good product but isn't necessary provided you use up the gas in less than 60 days.

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Octane ratings are all about higher compressions.
Low compression engines do not need , nor can the efficiently burn high octane fuels.

cpurvis said:

Pale oil, naptha, and ethanol. Isn't that what's on Seafoam's SDS?

aka, mineral oil, lighter fluid and alcohol.

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Developed in the 1930's, patented in the 40's, still sold today, and it still works. I'm sure there are more ingredients than those inside, I'm no chemist. I just know its worked for me for YEARS, and there are still ostriches out there who naysay it instead of trying it. Just put it out there for info. Use it or don't, but don't put it down if you haven't used it.

Kerry said:

Developed in the 1930's, patented in the 40's, still sold today, and it still works. I'm sure there are more ingredients than those inside, I'm no chemist. I just know its worked for me for YEARS, and there are still ostriches out there who naysay it instead of trying it. Just put it out there for info. Use it or don't, but don't put it down if you haven't used it.

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But by the same token, there are those of us who have done without any sort of additives for YEARS with no adverse effects. If Seafoam, or any of its competitors are necessary for trouble-free operation of equipment, why haven't I had any of the problems these additives claim to prevent? Can you offer an explanation for that?

What problem would I be solving if I started using additives now?

I'm not pointing any of this out to try to convince you to not use your Seafoam. I doubt that it can be done. It's the person who's reading this, asking himself "are additives really necessary" that I'm trying to inform because for every satisfied additive user, there are just as many people who don't use additives and have the exact, same result--no problems.

I never stated that it was NECESSARY to use it. I posted when the subject of additives and ethanol gas came up and stated my experience using Seafoam. You have no need for additives, that's great, saves you money. I, however, had issues and found a PREVENTATIVE cure that works for me. If sharing my experience with Seafoam bothers you so much, I will stop posting about it.

If you want to dilute your fuel with benign contaminants, be my guest. Tell all your friends and family.

Just don't call those who have not found a need for the product "ostriches."

cpurvis said:

If you want to dilute your fuel with benign contaminants, be my guest. Tell all your friends and family.

Just don't call those who have not found a need for the product "ostriches."

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This is the bad thing about opinion posts like what oil or mix ratios or additives should I use. Every time a thread like this is generated, someone ends up with their feeling hurt.
There is only one correct answer. FACTORY RECOMMEND.
I bought a new mower about four years back.....Big giant lable on the gas tank that said....IF YOU DO NOT ADD STABILIZER TO YOUR FUEL, YOU HAVE VOIDED YOUR WARRANTY. Past problem or not there is a reason that the manufacturer said this. Therefore a stabilizer is required in ethenol fuel.