Fixing up my Silver Eagle

[s10xtremist]

I'm starting this thread to document my adventures with my Silver Eagle LT2500-50D. So far, I've only posted an introductory thread and one about the electrical gremlins I was experiencing.

Here's a pic from the PO's craigslist ad:



It was pretty darned clean and I found no "wet" leaks. I got maybe one or two cuts out of it before I started having the electrical problems. A corroded fuse socket and melted fuse was keeping the rectifier from charging the battery, the key switch had worn and possibly burnt contacts, and the starter had a failing solenoid. I think these problems were caused by the PO leaving it parked in his carport (exposure to moisture) and installing a battery with insufficient cranking amps. After replacing the key switch, cleaning the fuse holders, replacing fuses, and replacing the battery and starter, I haven't had any problems with starting this thing for the past 2 years. Every weekend, it fires up in less than a second of twisting the key. I've also replaced the belts. Basically, I've re-done everything the previous owner did to "sweeten the deal" when he put it up for sale. He said it had new belts, new battery, and new deck rollers. The belts were some cheap garbage that frayed after the first few cuts and were actually too big, and the deck rollers were too small in diameter. In addition, the deck was bent downward on the LH side, making that roller drag and dig C-shapes everywhere I turned. It looked like someone maybe backed over it with a truck or something. A few months ago, I removed and tore down the deck to repair this.

I didn't get a "before" pic, but you can see how much metal I had to remove to get all the bent/warped portions out:



Used 10 gauge plate I had laying around to reconstruct the top and front. I made a few passes on the front top edge so I'd have enough metal to shape it to match the curve of the original stamped metal. That dark area on the top behind the roller bracket isn't a low spot in the metal, the primer was still wet there. I did a better job on blending the new metal-to-old metal joints where it would be exposed and not hidden under the black plate that bolts over it:



Painted and reassembled. Like it never even happened:



I found some OEM DC deck rollers from a place in Florida, and made some new roller bolts from extra long carriage bolts.

 

[s10xtremist]

Question time!

1) I've cut my yard 3 or 4 times since repairing the deck and it cuts so much more evenly now that that wheel isn't constantly keeping the LH side up too high. I'm still tweaking on it to get it just right. I have the front of the deck slightly lower as I read this helps with vacuum to promote a more even cut. I think I need to just make it level. It cuts great for the first pass or two, then it starts leaving lines everywhere like the blades aren't all at the same height. I have to slow way down for the rest of my cutting so it doesn't leave the lines as badly. What's happening is the grass is sticking to the deck and building up around the blades. I guess my grass is just juicy on the inside because I don't mow unless the grass and the ground is completely dry. I have to jack up the mower and chip out the grass clippings with a crowbar after every cut. BTW, the blades are OEM DC units (the "High Lift" blades, I believe) and were sharpened and balanced when I had the deck disassembled for the repairs.

Any suggestions on deck angle, blades, or anything?

2) My other problem just started. I noticed the hose (overflow?) from the hydraulic reservoir has been spewing oil and the LH pump/steering lever feels "notchy" and not as smooth as it was last week, or as smooth as the RH steering lever. I don't know a whole lot about the hydraulics on this thing, but my guess is that something in the valve assembly is passing too much pressurized oil through it and it's spraying into the reservoir tank and spilling out the vent/overflow hose. I haven't had a chance to really dig into it as I noticed this as I was parking the mower after cutting my yard last.

Anyone know what's wrong or have any suggestions on what I should check? I know these pump/valve assemblies are expensive, and I'm not opposed to rebuilding it or having it rebuilt if it requires special tools/equipment. The pump is a White, model #101010000002

3) I think my tires aren't grippy enough and are too "rounded". They spin very easily and tear up my yard. My neighbors don't have this problem and their mowers all have that common "Turf Saver" tread design. Their tires are much more flat across the tread like a soup can laid on it's side whereas mine are curved like a motorcycle tire. I'm sure this is my problem. I've tried running the minimum pressure in all the tires, too.

Any suggestions for a tire or should I just get those Turf Saver tires I mentioned? Could I drop the pressure lower than what DC specs? I don't see why not, within reason.