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Any ideas will help---Plastic hydraulic oil tank lower seal leaking after only 20 or so hours. Replaced the seal and only went another 15 hours this time. Plastic tnak or hose cracked? Nope --- new tank assy installed, and the hose is fine. I love my little mower and I don't want to sell it because of an apparent poor engineering choice...PLASTIC

I would check to make sure the hose isnt binding or vibrating and putting a stress on the seal.

I would think there would not be an issue with the tank or the seal, in general, because they sell a bunch of those mowers. If there was a design flaw then a lot of people would be having the issue.

Also make sure the hose isnt vibrating while the mower (and deck) are running. I would look for anything that would put a strain on the hose that goes into the tank. Maybe you could clamp or otherwise secure the hose to the mower body to keep it from vibrating.

Thanks!! I will be looking at the overall layout again.

Did you find anything?

Thanks all - But no luck, keep on adding oil every time out...considering custom metal tank...oh well, I still like my little mower.

Ta-Dah!! Just put on a custom made tank. Not a drop after running for 3 or 4 hours. I had a local welding shop make it of aluminum for about $100 and a trip to the hardware store for fittings. Cheap fix considering that another tank is $80 and there is about $50 in oil all over my garage, driveway and yard. Now I can rest easy knowing the tank isn't leaking. Thank you all for the help and ideas.

harley1 said:

Ta-Dah!! Just put on a custom made tank. Not a drop after running for 3 or 4 hours. I had a local welding shop make it of aluminum for about $100 and a trip to the hardware store for fittings. Cheap fix considering that another tank is $80 and there is about $50 in oil all over my garage, driveway and yard. Now I can rest easy knowing the tank isn't leaking. Thank you all for the help and ideas.

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I'm having the same problem only 170hrs and my tank is leaking and I can't seem to fix it. I may have to have a tank made also .

Kmzlawncare said:

I'm having the same problem only 170hrs and my tank is leaking and I can't seem to fix it. I may have to have a tank made also .

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Do you have any pictures of your new tank I'm about fed up to I put a new seal on mine and it's leaking again and I have not even mowed with it.I think ferris needs a new design.

Any chance you can post a picture?

Thanks

Ken

east_tn_emc said:

I would check to make sure the hose isnt binding or vibrating and putting a stress on the seal.

I would think there would not be an issue with the tank or the seal, in general, because they sell a bunch of those mowers. If there was a design flaw then a lot of people would be having the issue.

Also make sure the hose isnt vibrating while the mower (and deck) are running. I would look for anything that would put a strain on the hose that goes into the tank. Maybe you could clamp or otherwise secure the hose to the mower body to keep it from vibrating.

Click to expand...

Our 1500Z is about 10 years old. I had the same hydraulic tank leak issue. The biggest danger is that you run the tank dry and damage the pumps, as the oil may leak when mowing and not be seen, and you may not know until it's too late
The oil tank outlet fitting is a very poor design, as any pull the hose has will upset any possible seal. I replaced the rubber grommet but still it leaked badly.
So...I went to a local hydraulics store. The hole is about 3/4" dia, so about the same diameter as the OD of a 1/2" fitting. I was looking for a 1/2" 90° M+F hydraulic swivel adaptor. That way I could insert the male threaded part into the hole and tighten it with some kind of nut from inside the tank. The normal swivel is 1/2" NPT tapered, so not ideal. But they did have that same adaptor in 1/2" BSP parallel (same thread as 1/2" NPT but parallel), and this is better. I also purchased a 1/2" M to 5/8" M hose fitting to connect to the F part of the swivel, and a rubber washer for the inside seal. In the end I wasn't able to find a real 1/2" NPT nut, so used a 1/2" conduit nut. I made a big washer for the outside of the 1/2" swivel fitting where it enters the tank, then slid the rubber then steel washer down and over the parallel thread on the inside, then the 1/2" conduit nut, and tightened all that mess. I had to make a tool for the conduit nut out of a 1/2" PVC conduit coupling-I cut it to look like a castle on the end. To slide all the rubber, steel and conduit nuts down there I used a 1/2" rod inserted into the male end of the swivel. It's hard to work inside the tank. I also put a lot of silicon gasket maker on all parts to help it all seal, and drilled out the 1/2" swivel as it was only about 3/8" ID, and I was concerned that the small hole would cause some pump cavitation and damage the pumps. It seems to be holding up well

I have to say that a fabricated aluminum tank would be better, but I wanted to get it working, and was struggling to find a local fab shop to make this. I also thought it would cost a lot more than $100

Could do these thanks have a vent that's stopped up and causing pressure build up?

I've had the same problem the seal design that they have is for their production assembly and not for customer satisfaction and where they mounted it on the IS1500 is right over the battery and will destroy it over time, there should be a recall with them footing the bill for a new design fitting on the tank. what size is the bottom hose ID ?

JB Weld is your friend. They make a plastic formula that will fix you right up. Degrease and scuff the area up first.

slomo

I just replaced the grommet on mine for the 3rd time. It leaked some oil out overnight! The mower is probably at least 12 years old but only 354 hours on it. The bottom of the tank is so flimsy that any pressure from the hose distorts the fitting. Does anyone know if a new tank is any thicker? I tried zip tying the supply line to help straighten it out without binding but obviously that didn’t work.

Pictures?

joe_cooler said:

Pictures?

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I’ll take a few and post soon as I get home. It seems to be holding now with only a few drops since yesterday. I ran it for 15 minutes to get the fluid heated up and circulating. Help things set so to speak.

joe_cooler said:

Pictures?

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A few pics. You can see the thin plastic of the tank on the bottom where it flexed out of shape.

Craw_Gator said:

A few pics. You can see the thin plastic of the tank on the bottom where it flexed out of shape

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Is that the factory hose and clamp? Looks like garden hose and an automotive worm drive on her. What I am getting at is the hose looks fairly stiff. Any vibes will transfer to that orange seal. And that industrious 90 degree hose barb fitting........

slomo

slomo said:

Is that the factory hose and clamp? Looks like garden hose and an automotive worm drive on her. What I am getting at is the hose looks fairly stiff. Any vibes will transfer to that orange seal. And that industrious 90 degree hose barb fitting........

slomo

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Had the same issue on my new Ferris Procut S 61. Always garaged and maintained well. Started leaking after 150 hours or so. Really poor design for a pricey mower! Thought about threading up a replacement bulkhead fitting but couldn’t come up with a good setup. I went with Slomo’s suggestion. Pulled the tank, pulled the grommet, degreased everything and put a small bead of JB Weld two-part epoxy for plastic around the grommet and reinstalled it. Works great! Thanks, Slomo!

slomo said:

Is that the factory hose and clamp? Looks like garden hose and an automotive worm drive on her. What I am getting at is the hose looks fairly stiff. Any vibes will transfer to that orange seal. And that industrious 90 degree hose barb fitting........

slomo

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Yep that is the factory hose based on what I have seen on others. The hose is fairly stiff. The worm drive clamps I have no idea if original. I ordered a new grommet. reinstalled it and have used a few zip ties to contort the hose into a way that doesn't but as much pressure on the tank and grommet. So far it is working. I have an extra grommet and if it leaks again I may try the JB weld route.

Craw_Gator said:

Yep that is the factory hose based on what I have seen on others. The hose is fairly stiff. The worm drive clamps I have no idea if original. I ordered a new grommet. reinstalled it and have used a few zip ties to contort the hose into a way that doesn't but as much pressure on the tank and grommet. So far it is working. I have an extra grommet and if it leaks again I may try the JB weld route.

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Or degrease the snot out of it and slather on come clear GE 100% silicone. Much easier to remove than JB.

slomo

JohnFrancis said:

Had the same issue on my new Ferris Procut S 61. Always garaged and maintained well. Started leaking after 150 hours or so. Really poor design for a pricey mower! Thought about threading up a replacement bulkhead fitting but couldn’t come up with a good setup. I went with Slomo’s suggestion. Pulled the tank, pulled the grommet, degreased everything and put a small bead of JB Weld two-part epoxy for plastic around the grommet and reinstalled it. Works great! Thanks, Slomo!

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I am having the same problem. Oil spilling all over the battery and beyond (Terrible design). I replaced the grommet with a new one, but it is still leaking like the president's diaper at the Vatican. Anyway, any chance you (or anyone) can guide me a little better on how to apply the plastic JB Weld? If I understand correctly, I need to remove, drain, clean, and dry the reservoir. Then scuff up the plastic around the outside of the hole and apply the JB. Is the goal to just make the hole a little smaller so that the rubber grommet has a tighter fit? That seems to make sense, but how narrow am it trying to make it? The grommet still has to fit in it. Or are we trying to make the grommet adhere to the tank so that the connection is no longer slightly flexible? I don't think we would want it "glued" together as it is supposed to allow for the play/vibration of the hose while in use. My goal is is do both methods suggested in this thread as this 15w-50 stuff ain't cheap and I'm not trying to continue on having the most lubricated battery. I will align the hose and secure with zip ties,w but I also want to make sure that I properly do the JB fix. Thanks for any help.

Ferris IS1500Z Model 5900607 Regarding 5061712 oil reservoir with 5023121 Grommet leak

MugShot said:

I am having the same problem. Oil spilling all over the battery and beyond (Terrible design). I replaced the grommet with a new one, but it is still leaking like the president's diaper at the Vatican. Anyway, any chance you (or anyone) can guide me a little better on how to apply the plastic JB Weld? If I understand correctly, I need to remove, drain, clean, and dry the reservoir. Then scuff up the plastic around the outside of the hole and apply the JB. Is the goal to just make the hole a little smaller so that the rubber grommet has a tighter fit? That seems to make sense, but how narrow am it trying to make it? The grommet still has to fit in it. Or are we trying to make the grommet adhere to the tank so that the connection is no longer slightly flexible? I don't think we would want it "glued" together as it is supposed to allow for the play/vibration of the hose while in use. My goal is is do both methods suggested in this thread as this 15w-50 stuff ain't cheap and I'm not trying to continue on having the most lubricated battery. I will align the hose and secure with zip ties,w but I also want to make sure that I properly do the JB fix. Thanks for any help.

Ferris IS1500Z Model 5900607 Regarding 5061712 oil reservoir with 5023121 Grommet leak

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The last one I did, I replaced the reservoir. But kept the old one around just to tinker with. I took a pretty good size bolt with a washer that just barely fit into the hole where the grommet went. Then heated up with a heat gun (slowly and gently) and just sort of pulled it straight on a couple of different places where it was warped. The guy I sold it to never came back to let me know if it worked or not. So I can only assume it did.