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My tractor has some major issues. It is a 1994 MTD powr kraft. It has an 18hp briggs and stratton opposed twin, and it doesn't run. Has spark, fuel, and compression, but it won't run. It doesn't run after it developed a fuel leak into the cylinders after running it one time, and it leaked some of the tank into the oil (when i checked the dipstick, the oil was halfway up it), installed a fuel shutoff to stop the leak. I pulled the top and side engine covers off, cleaned out a mouse nest, and put it back together. It sat for about 6 months total; I pulled the plugs to check for fuel in the cylinders, found none, and then changed the oil. I accidentally put a bit too much in (thanks Briggs for saying it took more than it actually did) and then took some out, and when I went to start the tractor, it didn't want to start. Thinking it was the carb, I pulled the carb off, then after a month or so put it back on, and the tractor somehow started, but it didn't shut off. It didn't run away, but stayed at idle, it was smoking like crazy, and even pulling the spark plug wires didn't stop it. It only died after closing the shutoff. Haven't touched it since. I did notice that the reverse safety switch wires were pretty much nonexistent, and only a small ~3 inch wire remains. I think I either put a ground wire in the wrong place, or forgot to connect it all together, the key switch might be bad, or it might be the charging system (The tractor has some jerry rigged wiring). Note: Has a good 1 year old battery and good fuel. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Can't understand engine running with plug wires pulled ! were BOTH pulled ?? VERY STRANGE, anyway I found a wiring diagram that MIGHT be SIMILAR to your model,

https://www.partstree.com/parts/mtd...-kraft-lawn-tractor-1994/electrical-switches/ you will have to use your enlarge & zoom functions to see this better also navigation bar @ top of diagram

You failed to post your machines information, needed to find the CORRECT manuals ( if available,)(see EXAMPLE)
..... It's best if you get the wiring straightened out before going any further, post your machines info. and we might get this issue solved.....

Yeah, both were pulled, and it was still running. For now I guess I'll run it a bit, and just cut off the fuel to stop it, but like the issue with it not starting, it'll probably have magically sorted itself out.
My guess as to why it didn't want to run at first is either the float is junk, or the fuel is bad or something; but I can't be sure, as there WAS fuel in the intake, and it has spark, but it wouldn't run. I did notice at the first attempt at starting it that it was turning over a bit slow, but after I took out some of the oil about a week or so later, it sorted itself out after cranking for a few seconds, then instantly started. It ran nice, despite its issues, and it doesn't surge at idle like most tractors. I have not run it over probably about 10% or 15% throttle. I put in the correct oil (as Briggs recommends, from 0 to 100, 10W-30).

Overy heated engine or super high compression are the 2 things to cause that. Neither is good. I would start with removing the shroud and checking for a little animal nest.

My tractor's engine runs good, it doesn't backfire, the timing is good, it generates enough power, doesn't knock or anything, doesn't leak oil (but i did notice drops of something on the floor near the front of the tractor when pushing it around, possibly fuel?), it hopefully doesn't burn oil, and it only smokes because the fuel soaked through the rings before I put the fuel shutoff on. Other than the fact that's it's super inconsistent, it's a solid tractor for something we got for free.

Tractor Info:
MTD Powr kraft (1996, not a 1994) 46" cut, 18hp Briggs opposed twin, hydrostatic drive
I don't have any other info at the moment. Well, I do, but my computer won't load the pictures.

Tractorkid1250 said:

My tractor's engine runs good, it doesn't backfire, the timing is good, it generates enough power, doesn't knock or anything, doesn't leak oil (but i did notice drops of something on the floor near the front of the tractor when pushing it around, possibly fuel?), it hopefully doesn't burn oil, and it only smokes because the fuel soaked through the rings before I put the fuel shutoff on. Other than the fact that's it's super inconsistent, it's a solid tractor for something we got for free.

Tractor Info:
MTD Powr kraft (1996, not a 1994) 46" cut, 18hp Briggs opposed twin, hydrostatic drive
I don't have any other info at the moment. Well, I do, but my computer won't load the pictures.

Click to expand...

See here for locating your ENGINE information ... YOU did SAY OPPOSED TWIN ..!

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/briggs-stratton-model-locator.aspx

one of these should be your Engine O/H Manual ....

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1yZHlwUk9CWlNwYVE/edit

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybHphbUNTQUNNR2s/edit

Hopefully Figured it out

Ok, so me and my brother (hopefully) figured out the issue. It turns out that there's a wire that goes to the coil, a black wire which is a kill switch. So, it basically grounds the coil and shuts off the engine. As it would seem, it was not even attached, which most likely explains the engine not shutting off. Also, I was wrong. It shut off with the plug wires pulled, the fuel shutoff didn't do anything. Well, I think that the wire was accidentally pulled off after me and my brother pulled the top engine cover off.



MTD Powr kraft Limited edition (1995)
Model number: TMO-3400005 134Q699H088
Serial number: 2C044H30177

18HP briggs and stratton opposed twin
Manufactured: February 1, 1995
Model:422707
Type:1214 01
Code:9502015A



Here are some pictures of the tractor in its current state.
(My brother's profile on this site is TractorCrazy, he has a Cub 1250, A Cub 129, A mowett mustang, a cub 147, a cub cadet 72, and a piece of junk powr kraft)

It takes time for an engine to die by shutting off the fuel. The engine runs on the fuel in the float bowl until it's gone.

Yeah, I realized that. It was pulling it from the float bowl.

Update

We got the tractor running, and it runs good. It genuinely surprised me. The thing starts good, and after it gets fuel into the carb, it starts on the first crank. The idle isn't too bad, it doesn't surge, but it seems like the carb might need to be cleaned. Eventually I might empty the fuel system to get the gasket that was on the bottom of the fuel cap (but is now in the tank) out, and to clean it. But yeah, the tractor's fine. I put it together on Tuesday and ran it for a while. I am concerned about the possibility of it leaking fuel into the oil again through the float bowl, but oh well. But yeah, nothing leaks, good transmission, engine runs good, etc. Need to put some fuel in it eventually (there's only about a teaspoon of fuel left), and I need to put the body panels back on the tractor.

You can put an inline fuel tap in the fuel line , an easy piece of insurance.
I fit them to every mower I service .
Firstly it makes them easier & cleaner to service.
Secondly they cost a lot less than a change of oil & filter.

The tractor doesn't have an oil filter, and it does have a fuel valve, but it's pretty far from the carb, so I'm worried about the possibility of it leaking all of the remaining fuel in the line after the valve and in the float bowl into the oil.

With the valve closed it can not leak. Un less the line has a hole.

Tractorkid1250 said:

The tractor doesn't have an oil filter, and it does have a fuel valve, but it's pretty far from the carb, so I'm worried about the possibility of it leaking all of the remaining fuel in the line after the valve and in the float bowl into the oil.

Click to expand...

The fuel in the float bowl won't go anywhere. The float bowl has to be overflowing for fuel to get into the intake.

Good to know. Glad to have that cleared up.

I did notice that the tractor has an issue starting after sitting for a while, not like it has no fuel in the carb, but like it struggles to turn to the engine over for a split second until being able to turn over just fine. It also takes forever to start without choke. The hydrostat also kind of hesitates; it seems to struggle on changing terrain. My speed control lever has tons of play in it, and when going from forward to neutral, the hydrostat doesn't slowly go back, it stays the same speed then suddenly slows down a ton, then it creeps until going back to neutral.

I might take the fuel tank off to get the fuel cap gasket out of the bottom of the tank, and reroute the headlight wires from running off the stater to the battery. I also need to replace the throttle box and choke lever, as they're both broken. On the throttle box, the tab where the screw which holds it is broken off and the choke lever is broken in the middle, so it bends. I need to buy new ones and fix them.

I'm also thinking about putting the mower deck back on, but I kind of don't know how. I would look up a tutorial but everyone either gets the tractors with the decks already on or sells them before making any videos on them. The only kind of related tutorial I could find was "How to replace an MTD powr kraft deck belt" which talked about replacing the belt on the deck, which is useless to me. Anyone know how?