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Anybody replaced a pto clutch? Is there any thing I need to check when putting on new one?
Thanks in advance.

Be sure that the old one didn't fail due to low voltage. The battery/voltage regulator is usually an obvious problem, but the clutch not getting a good ground or poor connection on the positive side can also cause a voltage drop.

Klaus
Simplicity Sunstars (2)
Allis Chalmers B10, 310, 410
Ford 1210
Allis CA w/72" Artsway Belly Mower

Check your P.T.O switch make sure the ground is good on it just had one act like it was not working right, re wired the clutch straight to the battery (testing mode) and it worked fine , pto switch was bad, works great now,

wesk said:

Anybody replaced a pto clutch? Is there any thing I need to check when putting on new one?
Thanks in advance.

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there normally is an air gap adjust ment also.as the cluch wears the air gap could be to great and the magnet can't pull the metal palte into due to extra gap. be sure to check the coil with an omh meter to check for an open .The new clutch will come with a setting for the air gap.

When I first start tractor pto button is in off position but blades are on. Mowed a couple days ago,left pto button in off position. After about 10 minutes blades slowed and stopped.Blades came back on when I pulled pto button.Got done mowing and blades would not shut off when I pushed pto button off. Had tractor parked and running getting ready to blow out engine compartment. Blades slowed and stopped.Without warning blades suddenly engaged.SCARY!
Blades would then cycle on and off. Idled machine down and put away .Blades did not shut off .

lk3054kioti said:

Check your P.T.O switch make sure the ground is good on it just had one act like it was not working right, re wired the clutch straight to the battery (testing mode) and it worked fine , pto switch was bad, works great now,

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i agree---------check that switch-you have a dangerous condition which could really hurt someone-let us know how you make out-

I have the same exact problem going on with my Cub. I posted about it on here a few days ago. I put a new PTO switch in and it's still doing the same thing. Read my post. KennyV may be on to something:

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/167-Cub-Cadet-2186-PTO-Problem

I'm down to straight wiring my PTO clutch to the battery to test it. I've got 2 black wires coming from the clutch. Do I just hook one positive & one neg at battery?? Yep you're right, elec. is not my strong point:laughing:

freetown fred said:

I'm down to straight wiring my PTO clutch to the battery to test it. I've got 2 black wires coming from the clutch. Do I just hook one positive & one neg at battery?? Yep you're right, elec. is not my strong point:laughing:

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Yes, that is correct.

My issue is what appears to be pto clutch failure, but only seems to happen when hot. Does that make any sense? Acts the same when direct wired to battery.

I noticed that no one has mentioned the bearings. I have had to replace the bearings in the PTO on my 96 Craftsman. The bearings get rusted from the moisture and tend to seize on the shaft. I wonder if the bearings are semi-seized on the shaft and release after a period of run time. The best thing to do is remove the PTO and check it out. This has been a problem on my tractor. The first PTO was completely distroyed. The second PTO is checked from time to time and I replace the bearings as necessary. I got a little extra use out of a set by drilling into the bearing seal (very small holes) two in all and forcing in grease with a needle grease fitting on the grease gun. You pump in one hole until the grease comes out the other.

This may or may not be the problem, but it's worth a check.

alvindale said:

My issue is what appears to be pto clutch failure, but only seems to happen when hot. Does that make any sense? Acts the same when direct wired to battery.

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Having a similar problem with an Exmark lazer z hp. Ran for 1--17 minutes, then the pto shuts down. Let cool---goes again until next time. Anybody have any ides?

alvindale said:

My issue is what appears to be pto clutch failure, but only seems to happen when hot. Does that make any sense? Acts the same when direct wired to battery.

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It sounds like an intermittant short in the electric clutch. Is that is the case, get your checkbook out. I don't know what kind of electric clutch you have, but you can take an ohm meter and check the coil resistance. I am having clutch problems right now myself. My clutch reads .2 ohms, when it should be between 2.4 - 3.4 ohms. .2 ohms is almost a short and it will kill your engine.

alvindale said:

Yes, that is correct.

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Thanx alvindale--sorry for time lapse :laughing:--toggle switch works fine. NOW, if we ever get some rain, Had a real good first cut hay wise but 2nd, I got nothing to speak of. Good news--it's been raing steady all night:biggrin:

Eyeball said:

It sounds like an intermittant short in the electric clutch. Is that is the case, get your checkbook out. I don't know what kind of electric clutch you have, but you can take an ohm meter and check the coil resistance. I am having clutch problems right now myself. My clutch reads .2 ohms, when it should be between 2.4 - 3.4 ohms. .2 ohms is almost a short and it will kill your engine.

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I'm sure your problem is also the electric clutch. Seems to be a common problem in these "high end mowers." If you look, you can find a replacement for under $200. There is a lot of info out there. Good luck.

maybe a dumb question, but can an electric clutch fail in engaged position?

Answer to your question is yes.

Fixing Electric Clutches Burnishing a new clutch per instructions is most important.

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=troubleshooting pto clutch information

Found problems,I hope.

I found broken springs on pulley plate. Replaced it with one from an old clutch I had replaced 2 years ago. I also replaced the battery and checked and cleaned all electrical contacts I could think of. Reinstalled clutch and it started working. Don't know which was the true fix. Now I just need to let plates burnish in. I am glad I found the Forum, and I really appreciate the help. jsr

Is there a current figure during lockup? How much does the ?magnetic clutch? draw when operating properly? Seems that would be a good running measure to have. Also we know e.g., motors which are receiving insufficient voltage can burn up so seems a PTO not receiving enough voltage could slip itself to death?? A person could use a VOM to check this?

motoman said:

Is there a current figure during lockup? How much does the ?magnetic clutch? draw when operating properly? Seems that would be a good running measure to have. Also we know e.g., motors which are receiving insufficient voltage can burn up so seems a PTO not receiving enough voltage could slip itself to death?? A person could use a VOM to check this?

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Fairly easy to do.
Hook up an ammeter on the + feed to the clutch.
Clutches will pull 5 A to 15 A depending upon model when cold & go by anything as much as 20% when they get hot

Thanks for the tip. Now if we could post the mfgr recommended current figure for each machine brand a person could first use the vom to check VOLTAGE at supply wire in , and then CURRENT passing through to help in a decision of whether to replace this expensive part. Such talk may fighten some away, so a couple simple pics could help?

motoman said:

Thanks for the tip. Now if we could post the mfgr recommended current figure for each machine brand a person could first use the vom to check VOLTAGE at supply wire in , and then CURRENT passing through to help in a decision of whether to replace this expensive part. Such talk may fighten some away, so a couple simple pics could help?

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You will not find any which is a bit of a PIA when tying to fit a used one.
Like any mass produced electrical device there will be a normal variation in current draw.
This will change when the unit gets hot, will be less when the unit is cold ( snow ploughing ) will vary with the position of the battery, the number of plugs between the battery & clutch .
Most owners are hard put to work out a dip stick let alone understand the fluctuations of an ampmeter connected to their PTO and I seriously doubt it would be a big help to the owners.
I only ever check that it works and occasionally check the air gap, if it is adjustable & blow the dust out.

The PTO manufacturers do list average current draws in their catalogues and some actually stamp it onto the clutch.
Joe Public has difficulty reading the manual, about engaging the blades at 1/2 speed then throttleing up let alone some thing really confussing like current draws.
Next Joe public will start to see that there really is a difference between the Husqvarna & the Craftsman apart from the colour and finally factories seem to fit a clutch quite a random.

More good advice. Since I am only a homeowner I thought the mfgr of (some) the brand might publish troubleshoot data in form of a fault tree like done on auto computer controls where eg., find point A, should be 12V . I only briefly looked at the intek engine book but it had some values for the voltagel reg and stator. I imagine it is difficult for professionals to have a lot of faith in the general public concerning tech stuff. I shoot for the ? 5% who might be interested and further their education.

alvindale said:

Yes, that is correct.

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two wires coming out of clutch jd lx255 hot or ground goes to either wire?

thanks!