Drive issue with HRX217KVKA-MAGA 1414045

gtshearin

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My mower, over time, has slowed down and eventually quit driving the wheels except when they are in the air. I have replaced the oil (10/30), adjusted the engagement cable to Honda specs, checked the belt and and engagement all seems fine (per: hrx217k1vka service bulletin.pdf 686.2 KB). So I am down to the clutch being worn out. I have had the mower for 6 years and except for hard starting occasionally it has been an excellent machine. My question is can I replace the clutch or does the whole drive have to be replaced...if so any recommendation on dealers that work through the internet.
 

robert@honda

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My mower, over time, has slowed down and eventually quit driving the wheels except when they are in the air. I have replaced the oil (10/30), adjusted the engagement cable to Honda specs, checked the belt and and engagement all seems fine (per: hrx217k1vka service bulletin.pdf 686.2 KB). So I am down to the clutch being worn out. I have had the mower for 6 years and except for hard starting occasionally it has been an excellent machine. My question is can I replace the clutch or does the whole drive have to be replaced...if so any recommendation on dealers that work through the internet.

Which exact service bulletin are you referring to? The ideal on is Lawn Mower #94, from April 2010. It has detailed troubleshooting procedures for the HRX217VKA, and I can send you a copy (send me your email via private message).

If it turns out the trans. itself is bad, there are no internal service parts, and it must be replaced as a unit. But, I'd recommend you go through all the troubleshooting first if you want to DIY this job. Otherwise, here's a link to find a servicing Honda dealer near you; I can't say for sure any "work through the internet" for service, but many do sell parts online. Hope this helps you get started...

Find A Honda Dealer
 

turboawd

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how does the transmission on this mower work?
is it just a dry or wet clutch trans?

it seems way more basic and slower than the trans on my other hrx217 with the cruise control.
 

robert@honda

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how does the transmission on this mower work?
is it just a dry or wet clutch trans?

it seems way more basic and slower than the trans on my other hrx217 with the cruise control.

The SmartDrive control cable pulls on an external arm on the transmission. The father it turns, the more the internal clutch contacts and applies power to the drive axle.

The Cruise Control (hydrostatic) version uses a self-contained hydraulic pump and motor, and moving the speed control lever add/removes pressurized fluid from the pump to drive the the motor.

On both designs, the belt between the engine crankshaft and input pulley on top of the transmission are kept under constant tension.
 

turboawd

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The SmartDrive control cable pulls on an external arm on the transmission. The father it turns, the more the internal clutch contacts and applies power to the drive axle.

The Cruise Control (hydrostatic) version uses a self-contained hydraulic pump and motor, and moving the speed control lever add/removes pressurized fluid from the pump to drive the the motor.

On both designs, the belt between the engine crankshaft and input pulley on top of the transmission are kept under constant tension.

thanks for the reply robert.
i also noticed the cruise control mower has a lot higher top speed.

is it also safe to say that the hydrostatic will last a lot longer?
 

robert@honda

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thanks for the reply robert.
i also noticed the cruise control mower has a lot higher top speed.

is it also safe to say that the hydrostatic will last a lot longer?

The faster top speed is due to the final gearing/ratio...4 mph is plenty for the vast majority of operators.

SmartDrive has been around a few years, and going through some running changes in design. most notably the elimination of the internal cone-type clutch, which reduces moving parts, weight, complexity, cost, etc. Rear drive speed on newer SmartDrive and SelectDrive models is done by progressive tightening of the belt between the crankshaft and input pulley of the transmission. When you move the control, you actually rotate (ever so slightly) the entire transmission case, causing the drive belt to tighten up and transfer more torque from the engine to the drive axle.

The hydrostatic design on the HRX has a constant-tension belt, and it operates a small hydraulic pump inside the transmission. Pushing the drive control level tips a swash plate that allows pressurized fluid to enter the hydraulic motor and turn the drive axle. The more the move the lever, the more pressure is delivered and the faster the wheels turn.

On the commercial model, the hydrostatic transmission is driven off a PTO shaft direct from the engine; this set-up is a bit more mechanically efficient than belt-style designs.

I've used all three, and while there's little doubt the shaft-type is the most robust, it's a very heavy mower. I prefer the control layout of the hydrostatic models but many others love the Smart/Select drive controls. Properly cared for, any will last for years and years. Keep the underside clean and do all the scheduled service and you'll only eve need to buy "one" Honda.
 

turboawd

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The faster top speed is due to the final gearing/ratio...4 mph is plenty for the vast majority of operators.

SmartDrive has been around a few years, and going through some running changes in design. most notably the elimination of the internal cone-type clutch, which reduces moving parts, weight, complexity, cost, etc. Rear drive speed on newer SmartDrive and SelectDrive models is done by progressive tightening of the belt between the crankshaft and input pulley of the transmission. When you move the control, you actually rotate (ever so slightly) the entire transmission case, causing the drive belt to tighten up and transfer more torque from the engine to the drive axle.

The hydrostatic design on the HRX has a constant-tension belt, and it operates a small hydraulic pump inside the transmission. Pushing the drive control level tips a swash plate that allows pressurized fluid to enter the hydraulic motor and turn the drive axle. The more the move the lever, the more pressure is delivered and the faster the wheels turn.

On the commercial model, the hydrostatic transmission is driven off a PTO shaft direct from the engine; this set-up is a bit more mechanically efficient than belt-style designs.

I've used all three, and while there's little doubt the shaft-type is the most robust, it's a very heavy mower. I prefer the control layout of the hydrostatic models but many others love the Smart/Select drive controls. Properly cared for, any will last for years and years. Keep the underside clean and do all the scheduled service and you'll only eve need to buy "one" Honda.
great explanation!
i appreciate the fact that someone from honda is on this forum. thanks!
 
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