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Deck Leveling Gauge

#1

BWH

BWH

I was researching Deck Leveling Gauges I see Oregon, Sears, John Deere and a couple of others have them, they are mostly similar design but they don't indicate if there made from metal or plastic. Anyone have one that is made from metal?


#2

I

ILENGINE

The Stens part number 750-656 deck leveling gauge is metal. That is the one that I have.


#3

S

SeniorCitizen

If you'll build your own you won't need to read, remember or record any numbers. It's all recorded right there for you. Leave all that other crap in the stores.

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#4

reynoldston

reynoldston

I have been using a tape measure using my shop floor, side to side and front to back.


#5

S

SeniorCitizen

reynoldston said:
I have been using a tape measure using my shop floor, side to side and front to back.
Click to expand...
I tried that tape measure method about 40 years ago. Hum, there has to be a better way and haven't picked up a tape measure since. Oh, maybe a wooden ruler if I'm real concerned about cutting height ( which is unusual ) but then again just measure the gauge because all the info. is still there and recorded.


#6

Boobala

Boobala

SeniorCitizen said:
I tried that tape measure method about 40 years ago. Hum, there has to be a better way and haven't picked up a tape measure since. Oh, maybe a wooden ruler if I'm real concerned about cutting height ( which is unusual ) but then again just measure the gauge because all the info. is still there and recorded.
Click to expand...

Really ...??? C'mon you guys, we're cuttin grass ...not building watches .. I can understand setting up a mower for doing the the golf course , paticularly if its going to be a tournament or some such extravagant affair , but the average yard ... ??? I'm NOT saying don't take pride in your work but have you ever really had someone ( a customer or a neighbor, relative, friend ) come up to say ... Hey Bo-Diddley ...the grass is 7/16 higher than the last time you cut it .... please recut it to specs !!! ... Well Mr. PRECISION.. How bout I tell you where to put that ruler !!!!!
I can just see some fella following the mowers around ...weilding his mighty ruler screaming, hey, hey over here , come back and recut this .. and if you accidentally scalp a corner or a dip..??? Holey-Moley ...call the sod men in ... LOL ..:giggle::giggle::laughing:


#7

S

SeniorCitizen

So you've never read about someone trying to make his mower cut level?


#8

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

I can level my decks in less than 25mins max . Thats 4 mowers. Lol my shop floor and a tape. I have even used my trailer floor once in a bind.


#9

Boobala

Boobala

SeniorCitizen said:
So you've never read about someone trying to make his mower cut level?
Click to expand...


So tell me ... how many times do you have to level your deck ..?? Do you bother to remove the deck annually for a major cleaning and inspection, lubrication, belt replacement, etc. and you don't bother to level the deck after re-mounting it ..?? do you do an occassional walk-around of your machine to check for loose or broken /missing items etc. or are you one of those clowns that's a straight thru n thru " gas n go jockey " ...run the sheeet out of it, till it quits in the middle of a job ...?? and after you make your " first pass " of the day do you look to see what your cut pattern looks like ..???..:2cents:


#10

reynoldston

reynoldston

SeniorCitizen said:
I tried that tape measure method about 40 years ago. Hum, there has to be a better way and haven't picked up a tape measure since. Oh, maybe a wooden ruler if I'm real concerned about cutting height ( which is unusual ) but then again just measure the gauge because all the info. is still there and recorded.
Click to expand...

Just maybe its hard for some people to read a tape measure and then remember what they just read?:confused2: You will be surprised what you can do with a tape measure. Just my odd way of doing things I guess. We are just leveling a mower deck no big deal.


#11

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

I only remove mine only when I must. I have a 2007 zmaster everything has been off it one time or another, except the deck. Last year had to do some welding on the baffel . I left it on to do it. I only relevel when I have to. Not very often. But its a 5 min job when I do.


#12

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

Boobala said:
So tell me ... how many times do you have to level your deck ..?? Do you bother to remove the deck annually for a major cleaning and inspection, lubrication, belt replacement, etc. and you don't bother to level the deck after re-mounting it ..?? do you do an occassional walk-around of your machine to check for loose or broken /missing items etc. or are you one of those clowns that's a straight thru n thru " gas n go jockey " ...run the sheeet out of it, till it quits in the middle of a job ...?? and after you make your " first pass " of the day do you look to see what your cut pattern looks like ..???..:2cents:
Click to expand...
All my stuff is well maintained. But I'm sure not taking a deck that weighs over 200 pounds off just to do a inspection. Or change a belt bearings blades


#13

S

SeniorCitizen

I was directing my response to BWH who ask the question and wasn't expecting anyone set in their ways using a tape measure to change any more than I would ever go back to a tape measure. BWH may possibly want to explore new methods.


#14

C

cashman

I used a small engine valve spring compressor for years.


#15

reynoldston

reynoldston

Just what are we leveling here deck or blades? If the deck, what is so hard about using a tape measure??? I am not understanding something here. You set the mower on a level floor and take 4 measurements front to back and side to side on the bottom side of the deck. No rocket science and hasn't got to be too the 1000th of a inch. I have been using this method for years now and never had a customer complaint. It might include some very simple math in which any carpenter understands. There can be all different methods of doing this job so I say use what works the best for you. When I looked up a deck leveling gauge on E-Bay it was over 30 dollars and that is nothing I need in my tool box.


#16

BlazNT

BlazNT

Stamped decks do not work like that. You have to measure the blade not the deck.


#17

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

BlazNT said:
Stamped decks do not work like that. You have to measure the blade not the deck.
Click to expand...

They can warp. Fab decks can to but not as often.


#18

S

SeniorCitizen

reynoldston said:
Just what are we leveling here deck or blades? If the deck, what is so hard about using a tape measure??? I am not understanding something here. You set the mower on a level floor and take 4 measurements front to back and side to side on the bottom side of the deck. No rocket science and hasn't got to be too the 1000th of a inch. I have been using this method for years now and never had a customer complaint. It might include some very simple math in which any carpenter understands. There can be all different methods of doing this job so I say use what works the best for you. When I looked up a deck leveling gauge on E-Bay it was over 30 dollars and that is nothing I need in my tool box.
Click to expand...
************************************************************
So if a customer brings a lawn tractor to you complaining about an un-even cut you tape measure the deck side to side, front to back tell them it's just fine, charge them a fee and send them on their way?


#19

reynoldston

reynoldston

SeniorCitizen said:
************************************************************
So if a customer brings a lawn tractor to you complaining about an un-even cut you tape measure the deck side to side, front to back tell them it's just fine, charge them a fee and send them on their way?
Click to expand...

We are talking about leveling a deck not a blade problem. If it is cutting un-even there is a reason for it. Warp decks not buying it, you must be mowing rocks, its time for a new deck if it is warped that bad. So again one more time what are you leveling the deck are blades??? By the way I don't charge for something I can't fix just because you do. I am up front with the job before I even start and if they don't like it take it elsewhere. At my age and retired I can pick and choose my jobs and sure don't need to rip anybody off. I have found that on the cheep mowers the brackets that hold the mowers to the chassis wear out in time or just broken off, is this what you are talking about? Yes I do re weld decks. You must also run a repair shop and doing this type of work and if so must have different type of work coming in your shop then I do.


#20

C

csmlet

BWH said:
I was researching Deck Leveling Gauges I see Oregon, Sears, John Deere and a couple of others have them, they are mostly similar design but they don't indicate if there made from metal or plastic. Anyone have one that is made from metal?
Click to expand...

Not to get caught up in all this discussion but just to let you know I use the John Deere leveling tool and it is plastic. Great for checking the blades.


#21

reynoldston

reynoldston

RDA.Lawns said:
They can warp. Fab decks can to but not as often.
Click to expand...

This is a new one on me. So these decks are warping so bad you are getting a in-even cut. The only way I can think of to test for such a happening is to strip the deck and lay it on a flat surface. Just where do these decks warp?? So just how do you test for a warped deck when a customer comes into your shop? Or are they warping where the spindle housing fastens to the deck housing? If this is the case how do you repair it, shim the spindle housing so the blade is level? Is there a repair? You are saying just a linkage adjustment??? So you have a warped deck with two or three blades just how do you make them all level?? I just don't see these linkage adjustments on the low end mowers?? I don't see spindle adjustments on any mower other then a Ferris???


#22

S

SeniorCitizen

I don't give a dam about the deck being the blades are what cuts the grass. Ask the #1 Original Poster if those gauges he saw for sale were to check blade height for an even cut or check the deck.

We're aren't even in the same universe much less on the same page. Have a nice day.


#23

reynoldston

reynoldston

SeniorCitizen said:
I don't give a dam about the deck being the blades are what cuts the grass. Ask the #1 Original Poster if those gauges he saw for sale were to check blade height for an even cut or check the deck.

We're aren't even in the same universe much less on the same page. Have a nice day.
Click to expand...

Yes it started out as a deck leveling gauge and I said I do mine with a tape measure. Then as I see it I got attacked by saying I was sending out shoddy work and charge the customer for it and then a dream story about warped decks. Its got way beyond the PO first post I agree. We are talking about the simple job of leveling a deck not a complete deck overhaul. You have your own nice day as well in your own universe.


#24

S

SeniorCitizen

Hopefully these John Deere deck leveling gauges come with instructions so there is no confusion as to what the scope of the work is. :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

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#25

BWH

BWH

Thanks for all the information on the gauges, I knew someone would have the lowdown on them.


#26

M

Mad Mackie

BWH said:
Thanks for all the information on the gauges, I knew someone would have the lowdown on them.
Click to expand...

I'll give you the low down on the John Deere blade height gauge..
It's cute. JD dealers have them as they are required to have a minimum in stock. I have one and keep it as a "collectors" item and here is why!
The packager shrinks the wrap to tight which bends it. If you don't break it opening the package, you need a heat gun to warm it up and bend it back straight.
When you use it to measure the blade tip height, (the blade tip facing forward) you need to look at it straight on to observe the measurement, then you need to remember the measurement. Before you take any measurements, you need to remark it so you can see the markings as you are on your belly in order to see the scale. If you can't get that low to the ground, then you don't know if the tip of the tool ever touched the tip of the blade and you can't see where the pointer is indicating at a measurement.
You can grab the tool after taking the measurement, hold it where it is indicating, lay it over to get it out from under the deck and hopefully it stayed at the measurement.
Great tool!!!
Those of us that are in or have been in the power equipment repair business have our ways of checking decks and although not exact to thousands of an inch, generally do the job.
I prefer to not deal with stamped decks as I have found most of them to be twisted, bent or rusty and sometimes all three. In addition to the worn mechanisms that suspend them and then the blade spindles which is another story!!!
A few thoughts from Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


#27

reynoldston

reynoldston

Mad Mackie said:
Those of us that are in or have been in the power equipment repair business have our ways of checking decks and although not exact to thousands of an inch, generally do the job.
:
Click to expand...

Very true :thumbsup:


#28

BWH

BWH

Mad Mackie said:
I'll give you the low down on the John Deere blade height gauge..
It's cute. JD dealers have them as they are required to have a minimum in stock. I have one and keep it as a "collectors" item and here is why!
The packager shrinks the wrap to tight which bends it. If you don't break it opening the package, you need a heat gun to warm it up and bend it back straight.
When you use it to measure the blade tip height, (the blade tip facing forward) you need to look at it straight on to observe the measurement, then you need to remember the measurement. Before you take any measurements, you need to remark it so you can see the markings as you are on your belly in order to see the scale. If you can't get that low to the ground, then you don't know if the tip of the tool ever touched the tip of the blade and you can't see where the pointer is indicating at a measurement.
You can grab the tool after taking the measurement, hold it where it is indicating, lay it over to get it out from under the deck and hopefully it stayed at the measurement.
Great tool!!!
Those of us that are in or have been in the power equipment repair business have our ways of checking decks and although not exact to thousands of an inch, generally do the job.
I prefer to not deal with stamped decks as I have found most of them to be twisted, bent or rusty and sometimes all three. In addition to the worn mechanisms that suspend them and then the blade spindles which is another story!!!
A few thoughts from Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

Thanks Mad Mackie, I had my wonders about the plastic gauges. I know what your saying I too have used different ways throughout the last 40 years to check/adjust my deck level. The real problem is I have a hard time with my bad back getting under the deck to measure, I just thought at least with this I could check from outside the deck. But like most short cuts maybe it's not as easy as I anticipated. At least I now know which one is made from metal.


#29

7394

7394

I check my blade height using different sockets that I have measured & wrote the height on each I use. I check at 3 inch for front, if my 3/4" drive socket just fits under the blade tip, all is good up front. etc, etc.

I don't need to buy store plastic toys, someone could even just cut a piece of pvc pipe to size or whatever. It ain't rocket science..


#30

B

bertsmobile1

I do most of mine on my trailer which makes it a lot easier.
The trailer is a motorcycle trailer with the spaces between the wheel channels filled in so it is flat.
Originally I tried to use one of those leveling gauges but in reality they amplify any inconsistancies in the surface under the mower.
The usual "tool" is a rectangle of timber 2" x 2.5" x 3", a lot easier to use and actually more accurate.
If things are giving me grief I use a set of T shaped expanding bore gauges


#31

C

cashman

In an earlier post I said I used a small engine valve spring compressor and it worked fine for years. I also used an inside caliper. On the older Snapper RER's, uneven cut was a common complaint on mowers brought into the shop. Especially if the customer used a grass catcher. A Snapper factory guy told us that the blade should cut approx 1/4" to 3/8" lower in the front than in the rear so that the blade didn't have to double cut. And always level from side to side.


#32

mhavanti

mhavanti

reynoldston said:
This is a new one on me. So these decks are warping so bad you are getting a in-even cut. The only way I can think of to test for such a happening is to strip the deck and lay it on a flat surface. Just where do these decks warp?? So just how do you test for a warped deck when a customer comes into your shop? Or are they warping where the spindle housing fastens to the deck housing? If this is the case how do you repair it, shim the spindle housing so the blade is level? Is there a repair? You are saying just a linkage adjustment??? So you have a warped deck with two or three blades just how do you make them all level?? I just don't see these linkage adjustments on the low end mowers?? I don't see spindle adjustments on any mower other then a Ferris???
Click to expand...

Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max


#33

B

bertsmobile1

mhavanti said:
Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max
Click to expand...

Do it all the time, particularly with the pressed decks from AYP that use the 3 point spindle mount.
I am seriously considering making some jigs to fit into the log splitter to sort them out.
Down here the bare pressing is near $ 1000 OZ ( $ 750 US ) then add an hour for swapping all of the fittings over and another hour for fitting the deck.
A couple of hundred for belts & a pulley or two and you are getting to the price of a Chinese made Murray.


#34

7394

7394

Re: Blades Leveling Gauge

cashman said:
In an earlier post I said I used a small engine valve spring compressor and it worked fine for years. I also used an inside caliper. On the older Snapper RER's, uneven cut was a common complaint on mowers brought into the shop. Especially if the customer used a grass catcher. A Snapper factory guy told us that the blade should cut approx 1/4" to 3/8" lower in the front than in the rear so that the blade didn't have to double cut. And always level from side to side.
Click to expand...

Yep, true & in everyones Owners Manual. I set the slope to 1/8" that is with my weight on my Zero. Anal, probably, but it makes a 1/8" difference. So after properly inflating my tires if I set the front to 1/4" lower than rear, then it is actually 1/8" lower with me on it & just exactly as I like it.


#35

M

Mad Mackie

I found pics of my deck leveling/blade height tools.
The yellow JD gauge and my homemade blade height tool.
The homemade tool is a 3/8-16 threaded rod connector nut, bolt with jam nut on the top and a washing machine foot bolt with the plastic shoe removed.
The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.

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#36

reynoldston

reynoldston

mhavanti said:
Reynoldson,

Here is one way to do it and it is time consuming, but, very effective if you have a "big hammer" and couple pieces of wood and fairly decent biceps, triceps, back and abdominal muscles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSwcf_-APXI

If nothing else, you may find that entertaining.

Max
Click to expand...

Taryl wouldn't last one day working in my shop before I showed him the door out. Ponding on a big punch with a big rose bud and no safety glasses. He has no safety standards what so ever.


#37

mhavanti

mhavanti

I think that goes without saying. Anybody in business knows the importance of safety above all else. But then, his videos are entertainment as well as informational for those you and I are trying to help. He used to preface his videos with a safety statement which is for all intents and purposes to give the DIYer and idea that they are not invincible and helps keep his liability lower.

Regardless, if the deck is warped, that is one way to put it back into alignment. Another is shimming the arbors, not recommended unless you cut triangular shims and that isn't cost effective.

I'm a straight forward shop, do it right, one time, you're done and customers may if one is lucky, speak nice about you. The entertainment part only brings discourse a person may not want.

Have a great day one and all.

Max


#38

B

bertsmobile1

Mad Mackie said:
I found pics of my deck leveling/blade height tools.
The yellow JD gauge and my homemade blade height tool.
The homemade tool is a 3/8-16 threaded rod connector nut, bolt with jam nut on the top and a washing machine foot bolt with the plastic shoe removed.
The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.
Click to expand...

Now that is smart.
Got all them in the shop, never thought of doing it that way as I generally use a wooden block and educated eyeball.


#39

S

SeniorCitizen

After seeing all the methods, I'll be staying with my no hassle styrofoam coffee cup strip and a pencil to label L to R, F to B, left side, F to B right side with a pencil line for reference through the first mark the blade leaves. Thanks for all the other suggestions.


#40

S

SeniorCitizen

Mad Mackie said:
The reason behind the 3/8-16 is that for each full turn of the nut is 1/16th of an inch so a fairly precise adjustment can be done. This one is adjustable from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in 1/16th" increments. Check out the pics.
Click to expand...

This is the reason I wouldn't own a drill press without an adjustable depth stop and quill lock. Been using the 1/16" thread pitch to bore holes a precise depth for years.


#41

M

Mad Mackie

Most of the mowers that I service have blade height settings at 1/4" increments, I don't use calibrated styrofoam cups.
I do precision drilling/milling on my vertical mill to .001", my drill presses are used for non precision stuff.


#42

S

SeniorCitizen

Yep, I've done the milling, drilling precision lathe work thing and in my younger days when my eyes were better I worked as a jeweler and could spot a ring mounting off 0.001. But possibly someone is interested in adopting the easier method I posted rather than knocking it down before trying it. I didn't expect those that have it all nowed up to change their ways much less give credit.


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