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Cutting slopes
#1
S
send2den
S
send2den
Right before the end of the season, I got a new yard to cut (only ended up cutting it twice). Not a big yard, but the front yard is a joke. Slopes severely from the house down to the street and sidewalk. I'm using a 54" Hustler Fas Trac SD to cut it. As much as it embarrasses me to say it, I found out the hard way that this slope is SEVERE. I was cutting the property line coming straight down the hill and lost control of the mower and ran right over a utility tower. OUCH. Evidently it wasn't being used by anybody as nobody has gotten back with me on their cable being out.(So far so good). But anyway, I started babying the hell out of it after that. I tried mowing it up/down. I had to go a turtles pace going down so the mower didn't take off with me and the same going up as I felt it would flip backwards. So then I started (which I ended up doing both times) mowing it side to side. Even then the mower seemed like it was trying to slide sideways. I noticed the yard has evidence of ruts, probably from the previous cutters, so I'm reluctant to keep cutting it that way. Thought about a diagonal track maybe. I even told the guy, I may have to even end up walk behind mowing it (which I just have a 22" self propelled Honda push mower. I also know cutting with either mower any extended amount of time on a side slope, will starve the engine of oil, which is no good. Will this do the same thing, cutting up/down. I'd like to keep the yard as it is a small yard all in all, and pays decent, but that front yard is the biggest drawback. Anybody have tips? Scrap the zero turn? Go diagonal? One other concern is IMO, this slope is dangerous if I'm not paying attention, thus my going a turtles pace to cut it. Thanks in advance.
#2
Ric
Where are you starting when you mow across the Slope?
Ric
Right before the end of the season, I got a new yard to cut (only ended up cutting it twice). Not a big yard, but the front yard is a joke. Slopes severely from the house down to the street and sidewalk. I'm using a 54" Hustler Fas Trac SD to cut it. As much as it embarrasses me to say it, I found out the hard way that this slope is SEVERE. I was cutting the property line coming straight down the hill and lost control of the mower and ran right over a utility tower. OUCH. Evidently it wasn't being used by anybody as nobody has gotten back with me on their cable being out.(So far so good). But anyway, I started babying the hell out of it after that. I tried mowing it up/down. I had to go a turtles pace going down so the mower didn't take off with me and the same going up as I felt it would flip backwards. So then I started (which I ended up doing both times) mowing it side to side. Even then the mower seemed like it was trying to slide sideways. I noticed the yard has evidence of ruts, probably from the previous cutters, so I'm reluctant to keep cutting it that way. Thought about a diagonal track maybe. I even told the guy, I may have to even end up walk behind mowing it (which I just have a 22" self propelled Honda push mower. I also know cutting with either mower any extended amount of time on a side slope, will starve the engine of oil, which is no good. Will this do the same thing, cutting up/down. I'd like to keep the yard as it is a small yard all in all, and pays decent, but that front yard is the biggest drawback. Anybody have tips? Scrap the zero turn? Go diagonal? One other concern is IMO, this slope is dangerous if I'm not paying attention, thus my going a turtles pace to cut it. Thanks in advance.
Where are you starting when you mow across the Slope?
#3
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
You've already, by the worst way possible, determined a rider is not safe and got lucky. Pursue that approach and your luck will eventually end, so mow it with a walk behind while wearing golf spikes, increase the mowing price and charge a little Xtra for aeration.
Ever wonder why that job was open?
Ever wonder why that job was open?
#4
S
send2den
The last time I cut it I started at the upper right hand corner, came to the upper left hand corner. 180 and went back and forth until I hit down at the bottom by the sidewalk. It's a long rectangle shape yard that with my 54" takes about 5-6 passes at a turtles pace. I'm done for the year, but if the guy asks me to do it next year, I'm gonna have to change patterns because there are ruts already from previous cutters. Maybe I just have the wrong mower to try and cut that yard. If I use my 21" I'm gonna not create any more ruts, but it will probably take me an additional 15-20 minutes to cut if I had to guesstimate.
S
send2den
Where are you starting when you mow across the Slope?
The last time I cut it I started at the upper right hand corner, came to the upper left hand corner. 180 and went back and forth until I hit down at the bottom by the sidewalk. It's a long rectangle shape yard that with my 54" takes about 5-6 passes at a turtles pace. I'm done for the year, but if the guy asks me to do it next year, I'm gonna have to change patterns because there are ruts already from previous cutters. Maybe I just have the wrong mower to try and cut that yard. If I use my 21" I'm gonna not create any more ruts, but it will probably take me an additional 15-20 minutes to cut if I had to guesstimate.
#5
S
sidemouse
S
sidemouse
That's one good reason why I run full synthetic oil in all of my engines.
I do not play seized engines due to oil starvation games.
Full synthetic means extra heavy duty extended wear protection.
Nothing, absolutely nothing protects an engine better than full synthetic oil.
One other thing, do not point a Zero Turn Riding mower down slope!
If you do it won't be long, all your control is in those two rear wheels.
When pointing a Z down slope the weight shifts forward, and the day will come when that operator will go for a ride!
Once the weight effect starts you can't stop it, the rear wheels won't hold, all it takes is one slope just steep enough...
I hope your Zero Turn has ROPS in place and properly deployed.
Then you don't have to worry about flipping over backwards or sideways or anything, but keep your seat belt buckled.
Always point zero turns up slope, always keep the ROPS fully deployed, always wear your seat belt.
A Zero turn is a heavy powerful piece of agricultural machinery.
Keep this in mind when mowing sideways, should the mower start to slide you will need to 'slide' the nose to point up slope!
Which, you should be kind of mowing near that angle anyway if it's that kind of steep.
If you don't have ROPS fully deployed and a seat belt, I would get the 21" out.
I do not play seized engines due to oil starvation games.
Full synthetic means extra heavy duty extended wear protection.
Nothing, absolutely nothing protects an engine better than full synthetic oil.
One other thing, do not point a Zero Turn Riding mower down slope!
If you do it won't be long, all your control is in those two rear wheels.
When pointing a Z down slope the weight shifts forward, and the day will come when that operator will go for a ride!
Once the weight effect starts you can't stop it, the rear wheels won't hold, all it takes is one slope just steep enough...
I hope your Zero Turn has ROPS in place and properly deployed.
Then you don't have to worry about flipping over backwards or sideways or anything, but keep your seat belt buckled.
Always point zero turns up slope, always keep the ROPS fully deployed, always wear your seat belt.
A Zero turn is a heavy powerful piece of agricultural machinery.
Keep this in mind when mowing sideways, should the mower start to slide you will need to 'slide' the nose to point up slope!
Which, you should be kind of mowing near that angle anyway if it's that kind of steep.
If you don't have ROPS fully deployed and a seat belt, I would get the 21" out.
#6
S
send2den
Good points. Heck, when I cut it both times it was dry. I can just imagine when I cut it in the Spring with the grass being higher and carrying more moisture. Might be a no brainer to just push mow it. I told the guys wife I may have to do that when I was asking her about her cable service after I nailed the box. I can ask for another $5.00 on the job, just for that fact, and mention the ruts in the yard left by big mowers prior to me. That might be enough to sell em on the extra charge. If not, I'll just let somebody else cut it. Like I said in a previous post, push mowing will cost me an extra 15-20 minutes maybe. I'm not sure who was cutting it prior to me, but you're right. Whoever was cutting it, was tired of the slope. It's not a very big yard at all, with most of my time doing trimming/edging. If not for the sloped front yard, I could knock the mowing out in 15 minutes tops, front and back. I'm at $35.00 right now (which is a decent rate around my parts) and maybe thinking about asking $40.00 to do it next Spring.
S
send2den
You've already, by the worst way possible, determined a rider is not safe and got lucky. Pursue that approach and your luck will eventually end, so mow it with a walk behind while wearing golf spikes, increase the mowing price and charge a little Xtra for aeration.
Ever wonder why that job was open?
Good points. Heck, when I cut it both times it was dry. I can just imagine when I cut it in the Spring with the grass being higher and carrying more moisture. Might be a no brainer to just push mow it. I told the guys wife I may have to do that when I was asking her about her cable service after I nailed the box. I can ask for another $5.00 on the job, just for that fact, and mention the ruts in the yard left by big mowers prior to me. That might be enough to sell em on the extra charge. If not, I'll just let somebody else cut it. Like I said in a previous post, push mowing will cost me an extra 15-20 minutes maybe. I'm not sure who was cutting it prior to me, but you're right. Whoever was cutting it, was tired of the slope. It's not a very big yard at all, with most of my time doing trimming/edging. If not for the sloped front yard, I could knock the mowing out in 15 minutes tops, front and back. I'm at $35.00 right now (which is a decent rate around my parts) and maybe thinking about asking $40.00 to do it next Spring.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
It will take a bit of practice but mow backwards down the slope.
Then strait up the slope.
If the front keeps going light some front weight will fix that,
So it is a sort of zig zag with a lot of overlap.
Then strait up the slope.
If the front keeps going light some front weight will fix that,
So it is a sort of zig zag with a lot of overlap.
#8
S
send2den
Might start running synthetic next season if that's OK. I always heard that changing over to synthetic on an older engine in a car could be bad as it would help loosen all the sludge in the engine loading the pan filter. Not sure about the mowers. The Honda push, I just got this year and the Hustler has 200 hours on it. OK, not to sound stupid on your philosophy of not pointing the zero turn downhill, but in order to get to the bottom of the hill/slope to traverse back upward to the top, how do I get down there? lol. I did lose it once before going downhill on another job come to think of it. It wasn't fun. I'll also admit, my ROPS is off the mower as I use the mower to cut my own yard and I have a whole yard full of trees with low hanging limbs, especially my younger trees. I've been comptemplating putting it back on. I'll keep all those ideas in mind. If I can get enough jobs to keep me happy next season, I may just bypass any yards with the severe slopes. Lots of em in my neighborhood though. Lots of stuff to think about in the industry.
S
send2den
Now you know one good reason why I run full synthetic oil in all of my engines.
I do not play seized engines due to oil starvation games.
Full synthetic means extra heavy duty extended wear protection.
Nothing, absolutely nothing protects an engine better than full synthetic oil.
One other thing, you can NOT point a Zero Turn Riding mower down slope!
If you do it won't be long, all your control is in those rear wheels.
You point that Z down slope and the weight shifts forward, the day will come when you will go for a ride!
All it takes is one slope just steep enough...
ALWAYS point zero turns UP slope.
Keep this in mind when mowing sideways, should the mower start to slide you will need to 'slide' the nose UP slope!
Which, you should be kind of mowing near that angle anyway if it's that kind of steep.
I hope your Zero Turn has the ROPS in place and properly deployed.
Then you don't have to worry about flipping over backwards or sideways or anything, but keep your seat belt buckled.
Might start running synthetic next season if that's OK. I always heard that changing over to synthetic on an older engine in a car could be bad as it would help loosen all the sludge in the engine loading the pan filter. Not sure about the mowers. The Honda push, I just got this year and the Hustler has 200 hours on it. OK, not to sound stupid on your philosophy of not pointing the zero turn downhill, but in order to get to the bottom of the hill/slope to traverse back upward to the top, how do I get down there? lol. I did lose it once before going downhill on another job come to think of it. It wasn't fun. I'll also admit, my ROPS is off the mower as I use the mower to cut my own yard and I have a whole yard full of trees with low hanging limbs, especially my younger trees. I've been comptemplating putting it back on. I'll keep all those ideas in mind. If I can get enough jobs to keep me happy next season, I may just bypass any yards with the severe slopes. Lots of em in my neighborhood though. Lots of stuff to think about in the industry.
#9
S
SeniorCitizen
In my opinion you're making a wise decision.
Remember this fact: The tires with the least traction always take the lead. Believe it or not, the sliding rear tires had the least traction and you were very fortunate the rear end didn't come around. When at about 90° to your travel direction and the rear has come around, that's when you and your tractor get flipped. Possibly a little sooner if tire pressure has been adjusted a little lower and the down hill tire bead breaks from the rim.
S
SeniorCitizen
Good points. Heck, when I cut it both times it was dry. I can just imagine when I cut it in the Spring with the grass being higher and carrying more moisture. Might be a no brainer to just push mow it. I told the guys wife I may have to do that when I was asking her about her cable service after I nailed the box. I can ask for another $5.00 on the job, just for that fact, and mention the ruts in the yard left by big mowers prior to me. That might be enough to sell em on the extra charge. If not, I'll just let somebody else cut it. Like I said in a previous post, push mowing will cost me an extra 15-20 minutes maybe. I'm not sure who was cutting it prior to me, but you're right. Whoever was cutting it, was tired of the slope. It's not a very big yard at all, with most of my time doing trimming/edging. If not for the sloped front yard, I could knock the mowing out in 15 minutes tops, front and back. I'm at $35.00 right now (which is a decent rate around my parts) and maybe thinking about asking $40.00 to do it next Spring.
In my opinion you're making a wise decision.
Remember this fact: The tires with the least traction always take the lead. Believe it or not, the sliding rear tires had the least traction and you were very fortunate the rear end didn't come around. When at about 90° to your travel direction and the rear has come around, that's when you and your tractor get flipped. Possibly a little sooner if tire pressure has been adjusted a little lower and the down hill tire bead breaks from the rim.
#10
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
You may consider adding a weight kit on the back. My z masters have a factory installed weight on the back of them. My 48 inch is better on slopes than any mower I've ever used. Also always mow that yard in the middle of the day after the dew has long gone. If that didn't help I'd think about a small increase and just push mow it. I purchased a 4 wheel drive push mower for extremely steep areas .
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I think I know what you were trying to say but just in case,,,
The weight distribution on a ZTR is around 20/80 front to back.
If you the do the vector analysis on a 40 deg slope, the center of gravity shifts .
Rear wheels pointing down the hill, gravity is working with you
The weight distribution on a ZTR is around 20/80 front to back.
If you the do the vector analysis on a 40 deg slope, the center of gravity shifts .
Rear wheels pointing down the hill, gravity is working with you
#12
S
send2den
S
send2den
Per Senior Citizen reply. ( Didn't post the quote for some reason)Yeah, that's some good stuff to think about. There's really no sense in me putting myself in that situation. I'm retired and I'm just cutting some yards in my neighborhood for some extra golf money and to basically get me out of the house.lol. It's not like my livelyhood depends on me cutting yards. I DO like cutting grass though and actually thought about getting my own business after I retired form my full time career job. So I don't NEED to cut yards, but I like doing it and I do a pretty good job or so I have been told. Gotta get back to basics though and think about being safer with what I am doing. A 54" zero turn is more machine than I have ever had. Need to get back to respecting what it can and CANNOT do. Thanks for getting me back to "perspective".
#13
S
send2den
Wow, that's wild. A weight kit for the BACK. I would have thought a weight kit would be added to the front. Shows you how much I know on the subject.lol
S
send2den
You may consider adding a weight kit on the back. My z masters have a factory installed weight on the back of them. My 48 inch is better on slopes than any mower I've ever used. Also always mow that yard in the middle of the day after the dew has long gone. If that didn't help I'd think about a small increase and just push mow it. I purchased a 4 wheel drive push mower for extremely steep areas .
Wow, that's wild. A weight kit for the BACK. I would have thought a weight kit would be added to the front. Shows you how much I know on the subject.lol
#14
S
send2den
S
send2den
Thanks guys for all the input. After reading your posts and a few other threads here on the subject, I have come to a logical solution for me on the subject. IF, I get this yard again next season (or any others with similar slopes) I'm just gonna add an extra charge to push mow (unless of course the yard is too large to even be logical). I'm getting at an age where I sure in the heck don't need to be flipping over a lawnmower. And it's not like I'm cutting 100 yards a week and need to get em cut as fast as I can. I just have a handful to begin with. That's all I want anyway. Thanks again.
#15
Ric
Ok, you already stated coming straight down the hill and lost control of the mower and ran right over a utility tower so you've learned about going down hill on a ZTR. You never start at the top of the hill and mow down and never up and down the slope. You start at the bottom of the slope and mow across the slope and at the end of every pass you turn up the slope to make the next pass that way you always have control of the mower/ ZTR. If you ever get to a point where you start mowing more or a number of slopes you may want to consider a Toro Grandstand or some other type of stander which are can handle slopes better and faster than the ZTR.
Ric
The last time I cut it I started at the upper right hand corner, came to the upper left hand corner. 180 and went back and forth until I hit down at the bottom by the sidewalk. It's a long rectangle shape yard that with my 54" takes about 5-6 passes at a turtles pace. I'm done for the year, but if the guy asks me to do it next year, I'm gonna have to change patterns because there are ruts already from previous cutters. Maybe I just have the wrong mower to try and cut that yard. If I use my 21" I'm gonna not create any more ruts, but it will probably take me an additional 15-20 minutes to cut if I had to guesstimate.
Ok, you already stated coming straight down the hill and lost control of the mower and ran right over a utility tower so you've learned about going down hill on a ZTR. You never start at the top of the hill and mow down and never up and down the slope. You start at the bottom of the slope and mow across the slope and at the end of every pass you turn up the slope to make the next pass that way you always have control of the mower/ ZTR. If you ever get to a point where you start mowing more or a number of slopes you may want to consider a Toro Grandstand or some other type of stander which are can handle slopes better and faster than the ZTR.
#16
S
send2den
Gotcha. That makes sense. That way I'm never pointed downward. Now as far as the ruts and possibility of leaving ruts in the future with that same pattern, do you offset the wheel track from time to time? In other words mow a path that is maybe 1-2 feet higher on the slope than the last time, and stagger that with each cut? This particular yard has a sidewalk bordering at the bottom. so of course I try and start my cut on the edge of the sidewalk, but to offset I now don't leave a fresh cut pattern parallel to the sidewalk. Is that OK? Or do you advocate something else. That's how I started doing it at my house which has one little stretch just like this yard and I noticed I was leaving some semblance of rutting on it by going the same track. That gets tricky too though, as the sidewalk and grass where they meet are at totally different angles. I've tried to cut just a foot or two (that I miss when I offset the cut) from the sidewalk and have scalped it a time or two. So I guess what I'm saying is if I DO offset each time I cut, how do I cut the small patch between the edge of the mower and the sidewalk? I have pushed mowed that small strip before at my house to take care of it and that worked OK. I can push mow it and offset it off of the sidewalk by 21" and then come in with my Hustler, thus getting my wheels on different paths for each subsequent cut. What do you think? Bottom line here though, and I've learned a valuable lesson here, DO NOT turn that zero turn or attempt to cut DOWN a hill. It was amazing that day I hit that box, how little control I had over the mower when it started sliding down toward it. I had a guy tell me I should have throttled it and that would have picked it up and allowed me to gain traction. THAT idea sounded VERY dangerous to me as I would have then had a high rate of speed going down to the road AFTER I jumped over the sidewalk.LOL. Had to think about that one.
S
send2den
Ok, you already stated coming straight down the hill and lost control of the mower and ran right over a utility tower so you've learned about going down hill on a ZTR. You never start at the top of the hill and mow down and never up and down the slope. You start at the bottom of the slope and mow across the slope and at the end of every pass you turn up the slope to make the next pass that way you always have control of the mower/ ZTR. If you ever get to a point where you start mowing more or a number of slopes you may want to consider a Toro Grandstand or some other type of stander which are can handle slopes better and faster than the ZTR.
Gotcha. That makes sense. That way I'm never pointed downward. Now as far as the ruts and possibility of leaving ruts in the future with that same pattern, do you offset the wheel track from time to time? In other words mow a path that is maybe 1-2 feet higher on the slope than the last time, and stagger that with each cut? This particular yard has a sidewalk bordering at the bottom. so of course I try and start my cut on the edge of the sidewalk, but to offset I now don't leave a fresh cut pattern parallel to the sidewalk. Is that OK? Or do you advocate something else. That's how I started doing it at my house which has one little stretch just like this yard and I noticed I was leaving some semblance of rutting on it by going the same track. That gets tricky too though, as the sidewalk and grass where they meet are at totally different angles. I've tried to cut just a foot or two (that I miss when I offset the cut) from the sidewalk and have scalped it a time or two. So I guess what I'm saying is if I DO offset each time I cut, how do I cut the small patch between the edge of the mower and the sidewalk? I have pushed mowed that small strip before at my house to take care of it and that worked OK. I can push mow it and offset it off of the sidewalk by 21" and then come in with my Hustler, thus getting my wheels on different paths for each subsequent cut. What do you think? Bottom line here though, and I've learned a valuable lesson here, DO NOT turn that zero turn or attempt to cut DOWN a hill. It was amazing that day I hit that box, how little control I had over the mower when it started sliding down toward it. I had a guy tell me I should have throttled it and that would have picked it up and allowed me to gain traction. THAT idea sounded VERY dangerous to me as I would have then had a high rate of speed going down to the road AFTER I jumped over the sidewalk.LOL. Had to think about that one.
#17
Ric
Always turn up a hill or slope or hill with a ztr it's the only way to keep control of the mower. I've always found that when turning up the slope so the mower is pointed up the hill then reverse the inside tire backing up to line up the next pass works good for me. Another thing to remember if you ever get anywhere around ponds is to put a mower width between you and the pond for a safe zone. I seen a guy lose control of ztr on slopes and end up in a pond and talk about funny, all you could see was the rops in the water.
AS far as ruts go you should be able to offset like you said but I think every couple of times would be sufficient. You shouldn't have to offset every time. If you have two mowers of different sizes you can also alternate mowers, I often use or alternate between the ztr and stander. For me the 36" Grandstand is what I use on slopes or hillsides and for clients who love to water every night. It has a far lighter foot print than ztr. What I have found a lot of businesses are doing or have started using here when they run into pond areas or slopes is either the Toro Turfmaster or Exmark 30" cut push mowers, they do a good job and cost a lot less and it still keeps up there productivity.
There is a good rule of thumb to follow for doing slopes with a ztr mower and that rule is if you can't back up the slope without spinning a or the tires you don't belong on that slope with that mower.
Ric
Gotcha. That makes sense. That way I'm never pointed downward. Now as far as the ruts and possibility of leaving ruts in the future with that same pattern, do you offset the wheel track from time to time? In other words mow a path that is maybe 1-2 feet higher on the slope than the last time, and stagger that with each cut?
This particular yard has a sidewalk bordering at the bottom. so of course I try and start my cut on the edge of the sidewalk, but to offset I now don't leave a fresh cut pattern parallel to the sidewalk. Is that OK? Or do you advocate something else.
That's how I started doing it at my house which has one little stretch just like this yard and I noticed I was leaving some semblance of rutting on it by going the same track. That gets tricky too though, as the sidewalk and grass where they meet are at totally different angles. I've tried to cut just a foot or two (that I miss when I offset the cut) from the sidewalk and have scalped it a time or two.
So I guess what I'm saying is if I DO offset each time I cut, how do I cut the small patch between the edge of the mower and the sidewalk? I have pushed mowed that small strip before at my house to take care of it and that worked OK. I can push mow it and offset it off of the sidewalk by 21" and then come in with my Hustler, thus getting my wheels on different paths for each subsequent cut.
What do you think? Bottom line here though, and I've learned a valuable lesson here, DO NOT turn that zero turn or attempt to cut DOWN a hill. It was amazing that day I hit that box, how little control I had over the mower when it started sliding down toward it. I had a guy tell me I should have throttled it and that would have picked it up and allowed me to gain traction. THAT idea sounded VERY dangerous to me as I would have then had a high rate of speed going down to the road AFTER I jumped over the sidewalk.LOL. Had to think about that one.
Always turn up a hill or slope or hill with a ztr it's the only way to keep control of the mower. I've always found that when turning up the slope so the mower is pointed up the hill then reverse the inside tire backing up to line up the next pass works good for me. Another thing to remember if you ever get anywhere around ponds is to put a mower width between you and the pond for a safe zone. I seen a guy lose control of ztr on slopes and end up in a pond and talk about funny, all you could see was the rops in the water.
AS far as ruts go you should be able to offset like you said but I think every couple of times would be sufficient. You shouldn't have to offset every time. If you have two mowers of different sizes you can also alternate mowers, I often use or alternate between the ztr and stander. For me the 36" Grandstand is what I use on slopes or hillsides and for clients who love to water every night. It has a far lighter foot print than ztr. What I have found a lot of businesses are doing or have started using here when they run into pond areas or slopes is either the Toro Turfmaster or Exmark 30" cut push mowers, they do a good job and cost a lot less and it still keeps up there productivity.
There is a good rule of thumb to follow for doing slopes with a ztr mower and that rule is if you can't back up the slope without spinning a or the tires you don't belong on that slope with that mower.
#18
S
send2den
WOW. I had no idea they had pushmowers that wide. Pretty steep price for them babies too. $1700-$2000 for a new one. Is that correct? How about a walk behind Exmark? I see quite a few of those in the 36-42" range w/o sulkeys. How do they act on slopes?
S
send2den
Always turn up a hill or slope or hill with a ztr it's the only way to keep control of the mower. I've always found that when turning up the slope so the mower is pointed up the hill then reverse the inside tire backing up to line up the next pass works good for me. Another thing to remember if you ever get anywhere around ponds is to put a mower width between you and the pond for a safe zone. I seen a guy lose control of ztr on slopes and end up in a pond and talk about funny, all you could see was the rops in the water.
AS far as ruts go you should be able to offset like you said but I think every couple of times would be sufficient. You shouldn't have to offset every time. If you have two mowers of different sizes you can also alternate mowers, I often use or alternate between the ztr and stander. For me the 36" Grandstand is what I use on slopes or hillsides and for clients who love to water every night. It has a far lighter foot print than ztr. What I have found a lot of businesses are doing or have started using here when they run into pond areas or slopes is either the Toro Turfmaster or Exmark 30" cut push mowers, they do a good job and cost a lot less and it still keeps up there productivity.
There is a good rule of thumb to follow for doing slopes with a ztr mower and that rule is if you can't back up the slope without spinning a or the tires you don't belong on that slope with that mower.
WOW. I had no idea they had pushmowers that wide. Pretty steep price for them babies too. $1700-$2000 for a new one. Is that correct? How about a walk behind Exmark? I see quite a few of those in the 36-42" range w/o sulkeys. How do they act on slopes?
#19
Ric
Yeah the 30" mower carry a pretty steep price, I gave $1699 for my Turf-Master but it was well worth the price and it's funny you should talk about the 36-42" walk behinds because that's what I replaced with the Turf-Master. The difference in productivity between the Turf-Master and my 36" walk behind was near nothing. The TM weighs less the half of the WB and it's more maneuverable than the WB and the best part there less than half the price. The TM and Exmark both have a 1 gal tank and easy on gas which is nice and like the bigger mowers they actually have a air and oil filter to change which is a plus and it's a Twin Blade mower. It's a sweet addition for any lawn service because you always run into those clients that don't want the big ztr on there lawn or would prefer to have there lawn pushed and with the 30" you save a lot of time and work over the old 21".
Ric
WOW. I had no idea they had pushmowers that wide. Pretty steep price for them babies too. $1700-$2000 for a new one. Is that correct? How about a walk behind Exmark? I see quite a few of those in the 36-42" range w/o sulkeys. How do they act on slopes?
Yeah the 30" mower carry a pretty steep price, I gave $1699 for my Turf-Master but it was well worth the price and it's funny you should talk about the 36-42" walk behinds because that's what I replaced with the Turf-Master. The difference in productivity between the Turf-Master and my 36" walk behind was near nothing. The TM weighs less the half of the WB and it's more maneuverable than the WB and the best part there less than half the price. The TM and Exmark both have a 1 gal tank and easy on gas which is nice and like the bigger mowers they actually have a air and oil filter to change which is a plus and it's a Twin Blade mower. It's a sweet addition for any lawn service because you always run into those clients that don't want the big ztr on there lawn or would prefer to have there lawn pushed and with the 30" you save a lot of time and work over the old 21".
#20
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
It would be interesting to compare the grade or degree of slope on that lawn to the recommendation in the operator's manual of your mower that had the run away down hill. I'm curious to what degree one can go over the recommended before the excitement begins.
#21
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
I have no way of measuring the steepest slop I mow but I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.
#22
S
SeniorCitizen
I'm betting my Social Security check you have a way. If you have a 2' level or a piece of lumber 1,2,3,4 or 10 ft. long or any length similar and any spirit level you can do it. All that's needed is rise over run just as if we were measuring roof pitch/slope.
S
SeniorCitizen
I have no way of measuring the steepest slop I mow but I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.
I'm betting my Social Security check you have a way. If you have a 2' level or a piece of lumber 1,2,3,4 or 10 ft. long or any length similar and any spirit level you can do it. All that's needed is rise over run just as if we were measuring roof pitch/slope.
#23
Ric
If you have a smart phone you can load a bubble level that measures your slopes in degrees. My Iphone had one already installed and when I switched to the android I just loaded a spirit level on it, they work great.
Ric
I'm betting my Social Security check you have a way. If you have a 2' level or a piece of lumber 1,2,3,4 or 10 ft. long or any length similar and any spirit level you can do it. All that's needed is rise over run just as if we were measuring roof pitch/slope.
If you have a smart phone you can load a bubble level that measures your slopes in degrees. My Iphone had one already installed and when I switched to the android I just loaded a spirit level on it, they work great.
#24
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
Thanks Ric
Now I'm waiting on a response from RDA.LAWNS so I can double up on my SS check next month to pay for Christmas.:laughing:
Now I'm waiting on a response from RDA.LAWNS so I can double up on my SS check next month to pay for Christmas.:laughing:
#25
J
Jack17
J
Jack17
I'm reading this post with great interest. Found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX2RYPPZEb0
Watch it to the end...some scary stuff!!! I'm speechless, do not know what to tell you...sorry.
Watch it to the end...some scary stuff!!! I'm speechless, do not know what to tell you...sorry.
#26
B
bertsmobile1
People are idiots.
There is no course that you have to do before you are "qualified" to drive a mower.
You need no apprenticeship to become a lawn mowing contractor and drive down the road with a truck load of very dangerous weapons.
So you have to learn on the job.
Very few people who actually studied physics at high school understood what they regurgitated in order to pass the exam.
Then you have the effect of radial tyres, ASB , LSD's and disc brakes.
All of these reinforce that the Laws of Motion do not apply to me in the cavity between the ears where a brain should reside.
Sitting on the side of the road you can pick the drivers who cut their teeth on crossply tyres & mechanical brakes.
Futile Government interventions to try & prove Darwin was wrong has prevented idiot morons suffering the penalty of their own stupidity.
Thus every generation the collective knowledge of man kind vastly expands in an inversely proportionally rate to the clowns who ignore it.
B
bertsmobile1
I'm reading this post with great interest. Found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX2RYPPZEb0
Watch it to the end...some scary stuff!!! I'm speechless, do not know what to tell you...sorry.
People are idiots.
There is no course that you have to do before you are "qualified" to drive a mower.
You need no apprenticeship to become a lawn mowing contractor and drive down the road with a truck load of very dangerous weapons.
So you have to learn on the job.
Very few people who actually studied physics at high school understood what they regurgitated in order to pass the exam.
Then you have the effect of radial tyres, ASB , LSD's and disc brakes.
All of these reinforce that the Laws of Motion do not apply to me in the cavity between the ears where a brain should reside.
Sitting on the side of the road you can pick the drivers who cut their teeth on crossply tyres & mechanical brakes.
Futile Government interventions to try & prove Darwin was wrong has prevented idiot morons suffering the penalty of their own stupidity.
Thus every generation the collective knowledge of man kind vastly expands in an inversely proportionally rate to the clowns who ignore it.
#27
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
I watched the video noticed the grass was heavy probably wet. I could mow that with my mower in dry conditions.I went today and measured the steepest slope I mow. It starts at 20deg and increases to 42. I can mow all of it starting at the top of the hill mowing across the face going at a downwards angle. Its pushing the limits I know. Not all mowers will handle the same. With my added weights on the rear of my mowers gives it more traction.
#28
Ric
Are you saying your slope starts at a 20 degree angle and increases to a 42 degree angle?
Ric
I watched the video noticed the grass was heavy probably wet. I could mow that with my mower in dry conditions.I went today and measured the steepest slope I mow. It starts at 20deg and increases to 42. I can mow all of it starting at the top of the hill mowing across the face going at a downwards angle. Its pushing the limits I know. Not all mowers will handle the same. With my added weights on the rear of my mowers gives it more traction.
Are you saying your slope starts at a 20 degree angle and increases to a 42 degree angle?
#29
RDA.Lawns
RDA.Lawns
Yes. I start at the steepest part cutting across the face at a angel to the bottom. If I start at the less and go to the steeper I can't turn without getting into trouble.
#30
Ric
That's what I thought you meant, but I think you have your angles and grades confused. If your talking about a 42 degree angle your looking at almost a 100% grade which is a 45 degree angle.
Ric
Yes. I start at the steepest part cutting across the face at a angel to the bottom. If I start at the less and go to the steeper I can't turn without getting into trouble.
That's what I thought you meant, but I think you have your angles and grades confused. If your talking about a 42 degree angle your looking at almost a 100% grade which is a 45 degree angle.
#31
J
Jack17
Nicely put and I couldn't agree with you more. No doubt that Sir Newton was one of the most influential scientists in history of humanity.
J
Jack17
People are idiots.
There is no course...to drive a mower...you have to learn on the job...study physics...[understand it] in order to pass the exam...reinforce...Laws of Motion.
Nicely put and I couldn't agree with you more. No doubt that Sir Newton was one of the most influential scientists in history of humanity.
#32
Ric
I think we may have a spammer?
Ric
I dugg some of you post as I cerebrated they were very helpful invaluable.
I think we may have a spammer?