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Craftsman 4500 YS 20 hp briggs won't start

#1

S

siddo7

I've tried everything I know to do and it won't start, drained gas, replaced gas filter, plug,battery, it's getting gas and fire and still won't start


#2

S

SS16 diesel

siddo7 said:
I've tried everything I know to do and it won't start, drained gas, replaced gas filter, plug,battery, it's getting gas and fire and still won't start

Is your fly wheel key striped


#3

S

siddo7

Is your fly wheel key striped

Not sure,starter sounds good and doesn't sound like its spinning too long


#4

S

SS16 diesel

siddo7 said:
Not sure,starter sounds good and doesn't sound like its spinning too long

If your flywheel key is striped it will still crank over fine but your timing will be off


#5

GentlemanFahmah

GentlemanFahmah

Today's fuels suck for small engines. I dealt with carburetor problems in every small engine I owned until I finally got smart and at the end of the season, I would drain the tank or shut off the fuel and then let the engine run until it ran dry. After it sputtered off, I'd pull the choke and restart it until it died again with full choke getting as much fuel out of the system as possible.

I'll bet that even though you think its getting fuel, it's probably really not. You can take a windex bottle and put some fresh gas in it and then give a squirt or two in the carburetor throat with the air cleaner off to test. If it won't even give a fart by that method, then your problem likely is timing as long as you've confirmed the other necessary basics are functioning properly; "suck, bang, blow".

When you shut off an engine in fall that's running fine and it won't start in the spring, it's almost ALWAYS fuel related.

The new 15% ethanol fuel along with tons of additives all have problems with higher evaporation rates than gasoline, so those additive flash off over the winter snooze and leave only gasoline shellac in your needle and seat. This is a way of life in today's small engines with the new fuels.

For best insurance, run all small engines dry that will sleep for months or longer and they will always start first pull after MANY years of inactivity. Fresh gas is key.


#6

S

siddo7

Today's fuels suck for small engines. I dealt with carburetor problems in every small engine I owned until I finally got smart and at the end of the season, I would drain the tank or shut off the fuel and then let the engine run until it ran dry. After it sputtered off, I'd pull the choke and restart it until it died again with full choke getting as much fuel out of the system as possible.

I'll bet that even though you think its getting fuel, it's probably really not. You can take a windex bottle and put some fresh gas in it and then give a squirt or two in the carburetor throat with the air cleaner off to test. If it won't even give a fart by that method, then your problem likely is timing as long as you've confirmed the other necessary basics are functioning properly; "suck, bang, blow".

When you shut off an engine in fall that's running fine and it won't start in the spring, it's almost ALWAYS fuel related.

The new 15% ethanol fuel along with tons of additives all have problems with higher evaporation rates than gasoline, so those additive flash off over the winter snooze and leave only gasoline shellac in your needle and seat. This is a way of life in today's small engines with the new fuels.

For best insurance, run all small engines dry that will sleep for months or longer and they will always start first pull after MANY years of inactivity. Fresh gas is key.


Ok, I'll try that today, thanks man ,:))


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