Repairs Can't locate starter solonoid on 2011 MTD 38" Tractor

[woodworker]

I find the Briggs & Stratton 14.5 motor hard to start. Would like to test the solonoid, but cannot locate it. I thought it might be somewhere under the seat hiding in a framed panel, but not sure. Anyone own one of these tractors and know the correct location?

 

[ILENGINE]

MTD hides the solenoid very well. Most likely it is bolted to the frame either to the side of the battery or to the rear frame of the mower behind the battery. If you look at the top of the high plate below the fenders you may see two 3/8 head bolts about 2 inches apart. that is the solenoid. If on the left frame side there will be two bolts as described above behind the left tire toward the top.

 

[WISCOPROUD]

just follow the positive cable on the battery. it goes to the solenoid

 

[woodworker]

Thanks for the info. Found it as you said - onthe left side secured with 2 bolts about 2" apart. Many thanks - Don

 

[Lawnranger]

I find the Briggs & Stratton 14.5 motor hard to start. Would like to test the solonoid, but cannot locate it. I thought it might be somewhere under the seat hiding in a framed panel, but not sure. Anyone own one of these tractors and know the correct location?

You say you find your lawnmower engine hard to start, what exactly do you mean? Does the starter crank the engine when you turn the key to the start position? If yes, is it intermittent? Does the engine crank for an extend time before it starts? Does the starter crank the engine but the engine refuses to start? Something else? I ask only because the solenoid may not be bad and you could be on a wild goose chase.

 

[woodworker]

When I turn the key, the flywheel moves very little and stops. If I boost the battery, the engine will start but runs rough when I move gas lever to high speed. I'm thinking I may have a valve lash issue, but wanted to check solonoid just to be sure I have proper voltage. Thanks for the reply - Don

 

[Lawnranger]

If the flywheel turns when you move the key to the start position then the starter is engaging and the solenoid is doing its job. It sounds like you have multiple problems. First, check the battery voltage. 12.6 volts at 80 degrees is a fully charged battery. You may need to charge the battery or replace it if it won't hold a charge. Second, your engine running issue after it starts sounds fuel related. Give us some more information, please. Approximately how many hours are on the engine? Please list model, type and code numbers. A 2011 model may still be under warranty so check you bill of sale and owner's manual for warranty in-service date and warranty period.

Ethanol in gasoline has been creating havoc for small engines, which have not been engineered to run on ethanol fuel. If these engines were engineered to run on ethanol fuel we would not be experiencing the problems so prevalent since ethanol was added to fuel. Manufacturer's will not warranty ethanol related problems so your problem may not be covered but it is worth a phone call to the dealer you bought it from.

Tackle one problem at a time and start with checking battery voltage.

 

[woodworker]

I checked the battery and have 12.6 volts.

The Model No. is:

BRIGGS & STRATTON LAWNMOWER
31A507-0871-G5
CODE: 1103042B

Thanks for your reply - Don

 

[Lawnranger]

The fact that when you boost the battery (and I'm guessing you use a charger or another battery) the engine starts is leading me to think your battery may not have the capacity it needs to crank the engine even though the voltage is good. An easy test is to use a known good battery from another lawn mower, perhaps your kind neighbor will let you use his just for testing purposes. Another possibility is that the automatic compression release is not working properly or that the valve lash needs to be adjusted. I went to Briggs & Stratton website and found the IPL for your engine here: http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18kuzFXNnfBhU7y.pdf This link won't tell you what valve clearance you need but it does show that your engine has an ACR on the camshaft.

A voltage drop test from the battery positive to the starter while cranking should not be more than .1 or .2 volts and if you have more voltage drop than that it is telling you there is more electrical resistance somewhere in the system and most likely corrosion at an electrical connection which could also cause the problem you describe. Since we can't see your mower in person you will have to do some more checks. Start with the simplest first and try a known good battery and use the process of elimination. Let us know what you find.