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I have a B&S Intek 1450 which was purchased new, and given meticulous care. After only 12 hours of operation, there was catastrophic failure. An authorized service dealer has discovered bent pushrods and a ruined valve. The engine warranty is currently at issue, and I'm wondering if this ruined engine is even worth fixing, and also, is the Intek 1450 a good engine to start with? The engine ran perfectly well until the last day. After about one hour of operation, I shut down to rest up---after about 30 minutes, I went back and discovered the new engine would only backfire through the carburetor, and was subject to overcompression. I also noticed the rubber spark plug boot had melted due to excessive heat, and the outer plug wire insulation also had a crack in it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I should find out soon if the engine warranty will be honored.

If your dealer is any good and everything say is the truth (remember I can't see it) I don't see why it would not be covered under the warranty. Question I have is what is causing that type of overheating.

Rivets said:

If your dealer is any good and everything say is the truth (remember I can't see it) I don't see why it would not be covered under the warranty. Question I have is what is causing that type of overheating.

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With regards to the authorized service dealer, warranty requires doing business with the one closest to my home, so that is what I have done. Warranty further indicates my type of problem is normally resolved as a matter of routine, but I've been waiting for just more than a month to find out if warranty applies or not---should get some firm indication this day. I can only theorize about the overheating---I am quite sure it did not happen as result of clogged cooling fins, because I always begin by cleaning with compressed air (among other basic maintenance chores). I estimate the overheating caused the catastrophic failure, and came about due to improper valve adjustment (but that is only an estimate). Valves could also have been affected by a pressed in valve guide which popped up out of the block, and on and on. I used the new Intek 1450 on the exact same machine I've been using for 20 years, in the same place and exact same conditions. I ran my old engine for twenty years, and the only problem I ever had was a defective recoil starter rope, which I easily replaced. The new Intek ran perfectly for about 12 hours, and then failed. I also think the authorized service dealer is trying to ignore the melted rubber spark plug boot, which is actually key evidence---we'll see what happens today. Thank you for helping me to consider the engine problem.

Sorry Kurtis, but welcome to the Intek surprise club. My original misery goes back a couple years. Overheat? Yep, but haven't proved it yet. Look at the thread above, "Intek head tempertures."

motoman said:

Sorry Kurtis, but welcome to the Intek surprise club. My original misery goes back a couple years. Overheat? Yep, but haven't proved it yet. Look at the thread above, "Intek head tempertures."

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Thanks for an opportunity to share ideas. I just talked to the authorized service dealer about an hour ago, and there is still no decision as to whether or not the warranty will apply (they have now had my machine for 31 days). I was unable to find the thread "Intek head temperatures". I used my new engine six times, and it failed on the last usage. It started right up and ran perfectly for about an hour. Then I shut down to rest up, and went back after about 30 minutes---at that time, all the engine would do was backfire through the carb, so I began to troubleshoot. The first thing I discovered was the melted spark plug boot. On the 1450, the plug is recessed, and positioned right beside the muffler, so I figured it was just a cheap rubber boot. I taped up cracked plug wire insulation and discarded the boot, and still had the backfire. I realize now the engine overheated during the last hour of use, but there was no indication of overheating---no loss of power, smoking, heat rising up of the block, or anything---everything seemed quite normal when I stopped to rest. This is really perplexing, because the engine is mounted on a walk behind mower, essentially about three feet in front of the operator. Therefore, an experienced operator should be able to notice overheating, but even with all my experience, I had no clue that the problem had developed. That may be because the exhaust is directed directly behind the engine, into the operator's face.

Kurtis, Hot is relative until you actually measure it. A hot skillet is just too hot to bare your hand on ,but about 350F. I have been trying to measure the exhaust valve guides heat on my Intek 24 for two years now, but it's not so easy. The sensor pick ups are hard to attach and I don't believe the infra red guns can be definitve enough. This measurement is not new as I have seen walk behinds with head temp gauges shown on ebay, aircraft people and Harley (parade) bikers have head temp gauges etc etc. The professionals on this site know a lot, but cannot really disclose it for obvious reasons. I would like to know (or have) the rubber boot that melted on your engine to heat and measure at melt point . That could add circumstantial data. My recent head measurement @ 80F ambient was 312F-hot , but not yet dangerous.

Meanwhile the pundits state the reason for overheat is unknown , just as the valve train problems are unknown ...you know, pushrods drop out , are bent, are swallowed (mine), guides push into head etc. Again I believe the saving of the factories is that (I'll guess) 75% of over heat and engine failure is due to misuse, bad maintenance, low oil, clogged fins and fan. That leaves 25% ? to consumer bad luck of draw. Since BS sent me a new head for the Intek 24 ( 7 years ago) no more problem, but I added an oil cooler with fan, and dash gauges. I think the sting is when careful owners are had. Familiar? motoman :tractor:

PS the "intek head tempertures" was done yesterday in this column. My ranting is large and goes back a couple years with picutres. If interested, try search.

Thanks for the ideas concerning head temperature. As an individual, all I can do is pay very close attention to relevant considerations, especially heat. On many occasions I have been driving down the road and noticed an overheated engine, glanced at the dash guage, and sure enough---hot engine. I can do that because of paying very close attention. As per the 1450, that's what I was doing, and everything was as normal as the first 5 uses of the new engine, but it occurs to me the thing may have been overheating from day 1, and I thought it was normal. In any instance, the engine prematurely failed, and I don't think it's my fault. I have a thirty minute maintenance list I always go through, no matter what. That involves using compressed air to thoroughly clean the cooling fins and air filter. The authorized service dealer has suggested water came in contact with the valve and ruined it, but I say no way. I poured fresh fuel from a full 5 gallon container, and came nowhere close to the bottom where water would settle. The machine is always stored in a shop, out of the weather. It is possible condensation put some water in the tank, but very unlikely. The engine started immediately and ran fine for about one hour. It sat in dry weather under a shade tree for about 30 minutes, at such time as restart attempt revealed backfire through the carb---there's no way condensation would account for any water, after only thirty minutes. And there was not a single person besides me involved ( no sabotage or crap like that).

It could be the service dealer will call here in a while---he said he'd get back to me. It seems something is up, because otherwise my issue would probably be settled by now. I have the rubber boot in my possession, and appreciate the point you make about its melting point---that may very well become a priority as I settle up with Briggs and Stratton. I'm thinking in terms of getting my machine back, even without an engine---I can round up another engine, and at least that way I could be mowing. As it is, I have no mower, and 6 foot tall johnson grass. Thanks again for your help.

Here's a couple of pictures showing the melted/burned plug boot. Please be advised there is a shadow to the right side of the boot, and a piece of white paper was rolled up and put inside the boot for emphasis. Not the best photos, but perhaps better than nothing. The plug wire has regular insulation, with a second layer of shiny black plastic. The outer plastic layer has a big crack in it, just at the point it entered into the top of the rubber boot. It's possible such observation will somehow make my case for warranty, so any conclusions about this information will be appreciated. Still no word from the service dealer, so I'm planning for the worst, and hoping for the best.

Well guys, here's an update. The authorized service dealer has now had my engine and machine for over 40 days, and there is still no decision as per what is to be done---so I'm going in Monday, early, with one of the best mechanics who ever turned a wrench. Between the two of us, we mean to get the matter settled.

motoman said:

Since BS sent me a new head for the Intek 24 ( 7 years ago) no more problem, but I added an oil cooler with fan, and dash gauges. .

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I'll look for the head temp thread, but I'm interested in learning how you installed the oil cooler and so forth. I recently repowered my garden tractor with an Intek 17 hp v-twin (have some album pics) and want to keep it running as cool as I can. Thanks!

Update as per Briggs and Stratton Warranty Claim: Monday, July 8, 2013--- Just returned from authorized service dealer. There is still no decision as to whether or not warranty will cover damaged engine. I pulled the damaged engine from my machine out in the parking lot---left the engine and brought my machine home. I had opportunity to see the pushrods removed from the engine. Both were mangled rather than bent---the engine had been reassembled so I could not see the valve, etc. The mechanic on duty showed me two other Intek 1450's with the exact same condition I went in with, and a fellow on B & S website wrote in with the problem---that's a total of four that I know of. At least I have my machine back home, and that's some progress.

caffeinated and kurt, I just typed a long answer but the site erased it saying they do not know me.

Well motoman, the same thing has happened to me---not on this website, but others. If you ever go to a website which uses a program called "disqus" for its commenting process, be advised---"disqus" can and will censor your entire comment, without even informing you of such possibility.

Here's some photographs of the machine recently retrieved from the authorized service dealer---less the damaged engine of course. Blade spindle was made from scratch, and it's better than the factory original (the vendor wanted $550.00 for an entire front deck, whereas all I needed was a shaft). More information concerning sword mounted between handle bars is available at KURTISDDAVIS.com Great American Folk Art. The machine is a walk behind DR, sold by Country Home Products---it was likely manufactured by the Bachtold Brothers of Illinois, and is around 20 years old. The original engine was an 81/2 HP Briggs & Stratton, which ran well for almost 20 years---the new Intek 1450 failed after about 12 hours. Bachtold Brothers are probably out of business, and Country Home Products no longer sells the type I have, but offer an excellent "Premier" with a 121/2 HP engine.

Kurtis D. Davis said:

Well motoman, the same thing has happened to me---not on this website, but others. If you ever go to a website which uses a program called "disqus" for its commenting process, be advised---"disqus" can and will censor your entire comment, without even informing you of such possibility.

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Kurtis, well I have been critical of Briggs engine Intek for several years. And recently criticised thread advertising. Maybe they want me off. Just tell me, MrMrs administrator and I'm gone.:laughing: Until then I'll assume its just an "anomaly," and keep on trying to help and tell truth. I'm sure some pros would like to say goodbye.

Motoman, I think you have a good strategy. The whole idea of these public discussions is to help improve things. Sometimes facts come to light that other people would prefer not to recognize. The other day, while managing my warranty claim, a certified mechanic told me there are two other 1450's in his shop with the same problem I have, and he further asserted that Briggs quality is inferior to times past. At least one person wrote in to the factory website with the valve problem, so that makes a total of four 1450's all with the same poor quality. I knew there were quality concerns about 1450's before ever buying one, but I figured it was people not doing basic maintenance, and otherwise improperly operating---now I am beginning to understand there must be more to it.

I have heard that it's the "Intek" family which is the problem, and that other engine families from B&S are good---the "Vanguard" family in particular. I think the hang up with my warranty is that the damaged engine is not worth fixing, and a new one probably won't be any better. I've now been waiting about 43 days for an answer.

Thanks for an opportunity to share ideas.

Kurtis, when I bought my 5 acre parcel in 2004 I had never started or run a powered lawnmower. Still influenced by Sears former rep I bought the DYT 4000/Intek 24 with posted results in this forum over the last several years. I noted that BS seemed to downplay the Intek name in favor of the Platinum name which I asked forum members to elaborate beyond the ad hype by BS which was badge engineering as far as I could see (longer life, cooler running , easier starting etc). No one offered any information so I conclude the engine is unchanged from Intek. Something is wrong in the metallurgy-cooling-supplier quality of the head mechanisms, I believe. I have not proved overheat (390F), but believe it is very possible, and the likely root cause of valve train failures. We know it is a tough business environment: make and sell low end, air cooled engines in lawn mowers that will be abused and overworked. But when owners take care and still are burned it is time to demand better. motoman

Well motoman, thanks for the input. Here comes the part we've been waiting for: authorized service dealer just called and attempted to void the warranty, stating the area of the flywheel was completely impacted with grass, which caused engine to overheat. This claim has been completely disputed by referring to the Briggs engine manual (form 277040WST Revision:H, and pages 4,8,&9)

The engine manual specifies that the aircooling system be cleaned annualy, and more often if airborne debri is present, and specifies how to properly clean. THERE IS NOT ONE REQUIREMENT ABOUT REMOVING SHEET METAL FROM THE ENGINE, SO AS TO CLEAN THE AIR COOLING SYSTEM.

And furthermore, the aircooling system was cleaned, as per instructions in the manual, before each and every use.

So we'll see how it shakes out. The B&S representative is supposed to review things. I certainly hope we avoid small claims court (in my State, I can ask for the cost of the engine and damages up to $6000.00).

I agree with you, and even another mechanic---there is something wrong with the 1450 keeping valve adjustment, or perhaps transferring heat out of the block.

Here's some images from the manual (277040WST/Revision:H). Page four provides diagram 19, and item "A", which is the sheet metal surrounding the pull cord. Page 8 states when to clean (annually or perhaps more often), and pages 8, 9, & 10 spell out where and how to clean the air cooling system. There is no mention whatever concerning requirement to disassemble, or remove sheet metal from the block, so as to properly clean the air cooling system. The authorized service dealer is trying to void the warranty, saying that when the pull cord and related sheet metal were removed, he discovered the area to be impacted with grass. He further states that such debri caused the engine to overheat, and thus ruin.
I say I am not responsible for removing such part for cleaning, and even though it is illustrated in the manual, there is not requirement for it being removed, so as to allow proper cleaning. (Click on the images, and they get larger; use back arrow to return to selection.)

Images, left to right: diagram of pull cord area-page 4/cover page of manual/page 8/page9/page10

Kurtis , The Intek owners manual is also remiss. For example . No maintenance is called out for valve adjustment. For the V 24 and others it is mandated in scores of cases in this forum and others how important this is for ease of starting, elimination of backfire and (me) pushrod drop out. The only mention of valve adjustment is in a one liner in the troubleshooting guide. This task is beyond the ability of the average owner, though can be practised and done. So BS did the default thing- talk about it after the fact. Again, a pity some Japanese product quality is not in place as the Intek is behaving now that I know what it needs-if run hard ( as advertized) in hot conditions, then cool the oil to around 270F and know if it exceeds and cool off the machine...Oh yeah, and get lucky with the head/valve train mechanism. I hope you do not have to press small claims. It works , but you could be mowing ...or fishing. motoman

Thanks for the input, motoman. My point is, Briggs & Stratton spelled out the cleaning process in particular detail, and it was followed to the letter. They call the pull rope and related sheet metal a "finger guard", and it is highlighted in diagram #19, page 4. There is not one mention that it need be removed, so as to clean this area, and I ran my old engine for 20 years without ever removing and cleaning the finger guard. I'll take the service dealer's word for the fact that the thing was clogged---I have not seen it, and don't think it could be all that bad. I don't think the interior of that area being clogged would account for the overheat---I think there was problem with the valve adjustment, and after about 12 hours, the engine failed. The air filter and all exterior cooling fins were totally clean, especially all little nooks and crannies on the exterior of the engine.

If the matter goes to small claims, I will definitely be asking for punitive damage. You're right---I could be mowing. And I don't mow for appearance, but rather managing extreme fire hazard. In my area, there is no fire department to call, and in times past I've seen an 8' high wall of fire send 15' cedars up in fireballs. Bad news is, it's starting to dry out, and I'm surrounded by 5' johnson grass, and no engine.

kurtis, I hear you on the fire angst...Lived in So Cal for years and wind blown grass and shrub fires are truly scary. You need a field mower (PTO haul behind)? Or perhaps a hay mower like relatives used in Kansas years ago to mow alf alfa? motoman

What I need most is my walk behind. I have numerous areas which are impractical to mow with anything else. I became aware of the DR walk behind about 20 years ago, by watching an "infomercial". I was familiar with the old yazoo brand of mower, and thought it over, and took a chance. I actually ordered the DR without ever seeing one, and fortunately it proved to be exactly what the vendor said it was. Over the years, it has broken down numerous times---last year the engine threw the rod and was replaced with the intek 1450. Upon first use, the blade spindle spun a bearing, and I broke the threaded end of the shaft while trying to replace the bearing. On that basis I spent many hours designing, constructing, and installing a custom blade spindle, and everything was working fine---the old DR was doing better than new from the vendor. But then the Intek 1450 ruined after only 12 hours of use---maybe some less than that.

I think the DR will be down for the season, because I don't expect to get another 1450. I'll research and decide upon a new replacement engine, and I figure that will take a long time.

Meanwhile I'll do best I can with an old Ford 9-N and 4 foot brush hog, a regular lawn mower, and fervent prayers to the Almighty---I also have many buckets of water setting around.

I should add that the decision to void warranty is under review---that's my right as per the warranty---so even after 45 days the issue is still not decided.

Update-Intek 1450 warranty Claim Here's some more thoughts derived from the Briggs & Stratton manual, which relate to the authorized service dealer voiding my warranty. The manual specifically defines the proper procedure for cleaning the air cooling system on pages 4,8,9,&10. Page 4 actually provides diagram which emphasizes a "finger guard", which contains the rewind starter, and keeps the operator's hand clear of the rotating fly wheel---hence the term "finger guard". The cleaning procedure specifically states that the "finger guard" must be kept clean, among other areas. There is no mention or authorization for removing the finger guard, and directions indicate only the outside need be cleaned. Cleaning instructions do not require cleaning the area of the fly wheel. However, removal of the "finger guard" exposes the fly wheel, and the warranty says that failure to clean around the fly wheel voids the warranty.

I ran my old Briggs & Stratton engine for 20 years without ever removing the "finger guard"---same machine and exact same conditions. However, it is possible to note that the old "finger guard" is different in design, so that it offers a better filtering process which apparently prevented clogging the fly wheel area with debri.

My thought is that the warranty should be valid, because instructions about cleaning the air cooling system are incomplete at best, and the new "finger guard" is inferior due to poor design.

I also think the engine overheat problem was caused by valves which were out of adjustment, as happened new from the factory, and became progressively worse during the break in process.

If you had a new engine under warranty, would you risk doing things to the engine which are not called for, or authorized by the official manual?
If Briggs and Stratton requires cleaning around the fly wheel, do you think they should specifically state that requirement, in the official instructions for how to properly clean the air cooling system? (please be reminded official instructions are posted this forum)

Kurtis, well seems like you have prepared your case. I would like to watch as the judge hears your evidence. The only two small claim procedures I had were "no show" default by an insurance company. Who will show for Briggs? Be sure to tell the forum how you make out.


PS Send me the Briggs PN of the spark plug boot so I can get one and cook it slowly to observe temp at "wrinkle heat." motoman

Thanks motoman---I'll try to get the part number, but it may take a while. Meanwhile, I've tried to supply a picture of my old "finger guard" (red one to left), which ran for 20 years. You can see there is a chrome, circular feature which essentially serves as an air filter. So with this type "finger guard", apparently the fly wheel can't suck in nearly so much debri. That is why I say the "finger guard" on the Intek 1450 is inferior design (Intek 1450 is right-black). I still maintain the instruction manual was followed to the letter. I can see based on how manual instructions/warranty info. works, the service dealer could void just about any warranty claim. That is because Briggs & Stratton uses trickery in establishing their cleaning instructions, and probably every engine ever used has a least some debri build up---so they can always say "Warranty voided because you failed to clean the fly wheel, and overheated the engine".

I might also add that the engine manual does not prohibit use of the engine for a lawn mower; it does provide a list of forbidden applications, but lawnmowers are not on the list. Therefore it is implied that the Intek 1450 can be used, as is, on a lawnmower. That being said, it's Briggs and Stratton's responsibility to provide and adequate "finger guard", and they failed to do so, or even mention the need.

I still maintain the valves were out of adjustment from day one, and the condition grew progressively worse throughout the break in. That caused the engine to run hot, and it eventually began to backfire and would not start.

Good 'ol Briggs and Stratton---sure as hell don't make 'em like they used to.

You are right. Some trickery is involved in engine warranties. A read through the manual shows some lawyer talk converted to plain talk and that is pretty much just double talk. Oil change intervals, air filter cleaning intervals, filter brands, and operating conditions are all double talked to the point of the engine maker can get out of most claims except for obvious parts or workmanship failures. Even those sometimes are put off or denied until an obvious problem is ironed out. Good example is Briggs famous worthless spark plugs last year. If you call on those the rep will just say you have the wrong plug, and quote you the right plug and offer to sell you one. A few people got a free plug last year but no one around here unless you bought the mower from Lowes. My dealer did not even know the plug existed. Obvious bad parts or workmanship that get covered after about a 30 day wait around here is the Kohler Courage singles shucking the balancers through the block. My dealer got so upset over one of those he stopped stocking a popular riding mower and ordered a more expensive one with a Briggs on it. Engine makers are well insulated from the customers. Its very hard to deal direct with them. The one thing I would suspect is does your storage area have mice and pack rats? Those critters can pack an engine full in no time. The Kohler courage singles are famous for that as well. But to be fair to Kohler the book does tell you to pull the cover and clean the flywheel and they make it so anyone can do it.

Thanks Possum. I'm glad to know about what Kohler says about cleaning the fly wheel. I know exactly what you mean about rats and mice---I keep my machine stored in a good tight shop with concrete floor, and check for rats often. I also spray diesel all around (in corners, under shelves, etc.)

I've been thinking about the Briggs and Stratton warranty, and the way the thing is set up, I believe the cleaning of the fly wheel is a "catch all" which will allow them to void just about any warranty claim made. Over the years, I have removed at least two dozen "finger guards" from B&S engines, and everyone of them had debri packed in around the fly wheel, and none of them failed because of it. In this regard, I was repairing rewind starters on garden tillers, riding lawnmowers, etc.

To be fair about it, there's still a chance the warranty will be honored. The warranty allows me to request review of the service dealer's decision, and I have done so. I pointed out that cleaning instructions do not specify cleaning the fly wheel, or state that the "finger guard" can be removed by the owner while the engine is under warranty. It simply makes no sense to me to begin pulling sheet metal off the engine block to clean the fly wheel, especially because the cleaning instructions do not call for it. (Exact cleaning instructions are posted earlier in this thread.)
I appreciate what you say about translating legalese into plain language, and arriving at double talk. That's not a good game to play, and I think it just might backfire on B&S--- same way my engine started backfiring. We'll see how it works out.

Kurtis D. Davis said:

What I need most is my walk behind. I have numerous areas which are impractical to mow with anything else. I became aware of the DR walk behind about 20 years ago, by watching an "infomercial". I was familiar with the old yazoo brand of mower, and thought it over, and took a chance. I actually ordered the DR without ever seeing one, and fortunately it proved to be exactly what the vendor said it was. Over the years, it has broken down numerous times---last year the engine threw the rod and was replaced with the intek 1450. Upon first use, the blade spindle spun a bearing, and I broke the threaded end of the shaft while trying to replace the bearing. On that basis I spent many hours designing, constructing, and installing a custom blade spindle, and everything was working fine---the old DR was doing better than new from the vendor. But then the Intek 1450 ruined after only 12 hours of use---maybe some less than that.

I think the DR will be down for the season, because I don't expect to get another 1450. I'll research and decide upon a new replacement engine, and I figure that will take a long time.

Meanwhile I'll do best I can with an old Ford 9-N and 4 foot brush hog, a regular lawn mower, and fervent prayers to the Almighty---I also have many buckets of water setting around.

I should add that the decision to void warranty is under review---that's my right as per the warranty---so even after 45 days the issue is still not decided.

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Kurtis, I just remembered a post within the last 6 months where a member was looking to replace a 1 cylinder motor and choked on the cost of the US brand @ $800 if I remember correctly. He ran accross a (get ready) Harbor Freight engine for ? $200$ and also looked at the replacement warranty. I think he concluded he would try one with warranty. His decision was based upon a life and failure at year 2 where the low cost of the engine/warranty always kept him in business. I don't know how/if that worked out. Sooner or later the Chinese will get as good as the Japanese. Just a thought.

Well motoman, we'll see how it works out. This whole thing is going to be time consuming any which way I go. First thing is to finalize the warranty review---I figure they're going to send some short letter and inform the decision is final, and come pick up my engine. However, they could call up and say they've decided to replace the engine---which I would probably go for. I suspect they were going to deny all along, and had I not gone this past monday and retrieved my machine, I think they would have attempted to charge me a bench fee for disassembling the Intek---pay up or we'll sell your machine to cover it.

If they stand by their denial of warranty, this 'ol boy is heading straight for a lawyer's office. Although you can represent yourself in small claims, you can also have counsel represent you. I have always believed the man who serves as his own counsel is a brilliant lawyer, with a damned fool for a client.

Sooner or later, one way or the other, I will obtain a replacement engine. I prefer to be done with this warranty crap first. I'll definitely try to keep you guys posted about how this all works out. It just could be someone else can be better off if they see what's going on here---I do believe there's a B&S add up at the top of the page.

Kurtis, Good luck, but I always thought small claims was for the little guy without a lawyer. Both my cases were with damn fool self and won, but simpler. This forum has to have an effect on these corporations if it nicks their sales and they feel it. motoman

Thanks motoman---I need all the help I can get. Glad to know you were successful in small claims. I hope they will settle up, short of lawyers. I went exactly by the book, and these B&S people are trying to make me a loser. I put a picture of the Intek "finger guard" beside my old unit for comarison (post #26---this thread). However, I still maintain the new engine valves were out of adjustment, or suffered some other problem. But I'll play the cards I'm dealt, and if that's this trickery with the warranty/instruction manual, I hope to see it backfire on B&S like their engine backfired on me!

In addition to the written warranty issues of which you are already aware, I wanted to alert you that Oklahoma has adopted the Uniform Commercial Code and incorporated it into the state statutes. Article 2 of the UCC governs the sale of goods and outlines certain kinds of warranties that result from the sale of goods. One of these is an implied warranty called the "warranty of merchantability." It operates in your case as an additional warranty theory. The implied warranty of merchantability is that something you buy (such as a new lawnmower engine) will actually work for its rationally intended purpose (making a lawnmower go). That means it will start, run and stop for a reasonable lifespan. Yours did not, and the theory available to you is that the seller sold you goods that failed to meet an acceptable standard under the implied warranty of merchantability. Here's a brief explanation I picked up from a law firm's web page on a google search: Commercial Law: Express and Implied Warranties Under the Uniform Commercial Code . I'm not affiliated with that firm but I agree with its explanation of the UCC.

Here's the actual Oklahoma law:

OSCN Found Document:Implied Warranty: Merchantability; Usage of Trade

Your written warranty may include language disclaiming all implied warranties. That's one reason this is a secondary theory, as a court might or might not place weight on the dealer's (potential) claim that the Briggs warranty makes the UCC disappear. It's also a reason your attorney might want to consider having Briggs AND the seller included as defendants. The written warranty will be unlikely to protect the seller against your claim.

So take a few minutes and talk with an attorney; be able to tell him / her where, when and from whom you purchased the engine. If you bought it online, that may complicate things. On the other hand, your state Attorney General's office may have a consumer protection program that can rattle cages where small claims court might not. Any way you look at it, a short visit to an attorney is a good idea. Mention that the failure from overheating seems to be a repeat issue; the Attorney General's office might have received other complaints. Just some ideas.

Ok The CaffeinatedOne---first let me say it's about 4:30 AM, and I was just in my ordinary routine of caffeinating (morning coffee). I am pleased to further note that my walk behind was ordered from Vermont, many years ago.

So we'll see what review of denying my warranty claim brings forth, and go from there. Meanwhile I will study and contemplate what you have said. I call this process "whetting the edge", based on the work I do. KURTISDDAVIS.com Great American Folk Art

Thank you very much for sharing ideas---I truly appreciate it.

Wow, coffee drinking man. That's good stuff which alone could punch out the BS rep for sure. Kurtis may just get lucky and find some free or low cost advice from a lawyer. I was just like most for a long time, believing in the joke about lawyers that "10, 000 lawyers under the sea is a good start," etc. Then I met an honest , helpful lawyer who saved me mucho dinero for a $50 fee. As always we must be careful of stereotypes .

Motoman, I fully agree. Attorneys are just like every other profession---there's good ones and bad ones. We'll see what review of my warranty claim brings forth, and go from there.

B&S manufactures 1000's of engines, and not one of them is ever started and run at the factory. However, each engine contains at least two valves, which must be carefully adjusted to tolerance about the thickness of a sheet of paper---a little too much or too little will make a huge difference in how well the engine runs, and how long it lasts. Manual for Intek 1450 actually expresses requirement that crucial valve adjustment be checked annually---this brings consideration of mechanical means used to maintain adjustment once made(i.e "keepers", "pins", "jam nuts", etc.). These means can also fail during crucial "break in" period. Valve adjustment can easily account for why a small engine runs too hot for a while, and then fails.

However, B&S clearly has deceitful method of totally ignoring crucial engine valve adjustment & maintenance---they trap a fellow in the "didn't clean the fly wheel" nonsense, and guess what? The trap allows B&S to avoid even considering improper valves, delivered from the factory, as cause of overheating. (Improper adjustment and failure of means used to maintain proper adjustment, are only a couple of things that can go wrong with valves---I assure you there are other common problems not herein mentioned.)

There can be no question that an improper adjustment to intake valve caused my engine to backfire, and I hope the B&S "warranty trap" backfires on them the same way. In this regard, TheCaffeinatedOne has mentioned the Oklahoma Attorney General, and I have determined that I can file online complaint with his Office at no cost---but I'll talk to an attorney first.

Thank you for an opportunity to share ideas.


For what it's worth, here's the fine print from the manual regarding what voids the warranty. Notice item 7 (cleaning instructions from manual are included post #19, this thread). (click image for larger view---use back arrow to return) This statement from B&S essentially says to clean the air cooling system as per instructions in the Operator's Manual, but those instructions do not state requirement to clean around the fly wheel, which would of course involve removal of the "finger guard".

Update Briggs & Stratton Warranty Claim Well guys, it's now been about 47 days and the warranty claim is still unresolved. Currently, decision to void the warranty, for failure to clean around the fly wheel, is under review. Meanwhile, I checked my files and found an old B&S engine manual from 2003. Cleaning instructions for the air cooling system are reproduced below:



In the old manual, at least there is some clue that an owner might need to take the engine in so that "partial disassembly" can be made by an authorized service dealer, for purpose of cleaning around the fly wheel. Compare this old manual to current instructions (post 19 this thread). In the current cleaning instructions, there is nothing whatever said about cleaning the fly wheel, or potential need to have an authorized service dealer partially disassemble, so as to clean---NOTHING.

The only thing the current manual has to say about cleaning the fly wheel area is in the warranty fine print---where it is said that if debri clogs the fly wheel area, the warranty can be voided. So if their cleaning instructions are closely followed, the fly wheel will not be cleaned, or taken to a service dealer for that purpose either, and the warranty will be voided, because the instructions were closely followed!!!

This deceitful process allows the manufacturer to avoid even considering that improper valve adjustment, as per an untested new engine, was cause of new engine failure.

Now combine the evidence above with evidence concerning the "finger guard", as per post #26, this thread. An inferior "finger guard" as per the Intek 1450, combined with the deceitful cleaning instructions/warranty, virtually guarantees the owner will suffer engine failure and financial loss.

Good 'ol Briggs and Stratton---sure don't make 'em like they used to.

Update Briggs & Stratton Warranty Claim: Well guys, here's the latest update---NOTHING! After a total of 54 days, there is still no final answer from the Briggs & Stratton authorized service dealer; review of decision to void warranty has been ongoing since July 10.

My next update will occur about the second week of August.

My sincere thanks for help, aid, and support. It is still my thought the Intek 1450 failed after 10-12 hrs because extra heat during the break in combined with extra heat from improper intake valve adjustment---thus the engine overheated and ruined. "Warranty trap" of blaming a clogged fly wheel enables Briggs & Stratton to avoid even considering the true cause of failure.

Update Briggs & Stratton Warranty Claim: Well folks, after a time of about 76 days, there is still no final decision as to whether or not my warranty will be honored or voided. A request for help regarding the warranty issue was made to a factory representative on Friday, August 2, 2013, who fully agreed that time elapsed was (is) ridiculous---the man said "give me a few days to get things settled", and that was 10 days ago. Could be final word will be soon forthcoming---I'll try to keep you posted on how things turn out.

Once again, thanks to Lawn World and other individuals for help, aid, and support, made possible by this forum.

ok, we're watching

10-4, motorman.

Something tells me that if you continue to wait for a response, you'll get better and better at it. That may not be to your best advantage. Might be time to call that lawyer; just buy some time and get some advice about how to get a little equity out of this deal.

Here's an idea - print out this thread and share it with the lawyer; it'll get him / her up to speed more quickly than any other way and time is money.

Lawyer????

What are you all smoking????

You installed a newer Briggs on an old Bachtold/Dr.Trimmer and melted some chit and want to blame someone.

You bought this engine for $280 bucks from Tulsa Warehouse, and you are squawking about lawyers? Quit blaming others for your lack of common sense.

I'll admit, I didn't read all of that dribble, but come-on!!!!!!!

Is the O.P. someone's brother? Let me know, just curious......

TheCaffeinatedOne said:

Something tells me that if you continue to wait for a response, you'll get better and better at it. That may not be to your best advantage. Might be time to call that lawyer; just buy some time and get some advice about how to get a little equity out of this deal.

Here's an idea - print out this thread and share it with the lawyer; it'll get him / her up to speed more quickly than any other way and time is money.

Click to expand...

Your point is well taken. I'm currently finishing up a major project, so I'll wait to hear from B&S, and in about 10 days, make my decision.

Fish said:

Lawyer????

What are you all smoking????

You installed a newer Briggs on an old Bachtold/Dr.Trimmer and melted some chit and want to blame someone.

You bought this engine for $280 bucks from Tulsa Warehouse, and you are squawking about lawyers? Quit blaming others for your lack of common sense.

I'll admit, I didn't read all of that dribble, but come-on!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

Your avatar is somewhat appealing. KURTISDDAVIS.com Great American Folk Art

Fish said:

I'll admit, I didn't read all of that dribble

Click to expand...

Glad we got that sorted out.

drivel but maybe dribble on drivel

motoman said:

drivel but maybe dribble on drivel

Click to expand...

Hey drivel drivel, the Briggs and the fiddle...

Likely, very very likely, the original engine was an L-head. The O.P. likely bought a newer Intek engine from an online warehouse and
installed it himself, but ran into some trouble regarding the exhaust.

He looked up his nearest local Briggs warranty dealer, but they are not very excited about getting involved, why should they.

The way Briggs warranty is set up, it is, or at least used to be, very hard on the dealers.

Back when I first opened my shop , I had just gotten set up as a Briggs dealer, and a guy brought me a mower that was less than a month
old that he had bought from Lowes, said that he was mowing for the first time and when he got into a thicker clump of grass, he heard a whirr,
and the engine sped up then leveled off, he started pushing again, and he noticed that it was no longer cutting.

He looked down and saw the blade and part of the crankshaft at his feet. He took it to Lowes, they sent him to their regular shop, he said
there was nothing he could do about him breaking a crankshaft, as crank damage would not be covered. When he came to me, I told him
that Briggs won't cover crank damage too. He handed me the blade/crank piece and it looked pristine, not a nick anywhere, could sell the blade as a new one, looked at the mower, it was a self propelled model, but no bend on the crank.

Called Briggs, went through the same discussion with them. They told me, replace the crank, file the claim and send the parts, and we will
let you know if it will be covered or not. I asked, "What if it's not?"

"Well then you will need to collect your payment from the customer"......

I had been dumb enough to sign up as a full warranty Briggs dealer, so I had to go along with it.

Bletchh. Any suggestions for an affordable, well built replacement engine?

I had a Kawasaki on my garden tractor that did yeoman duty for 20 years until I screwed up when changing the oil - and it blew to smithereens. I replaced it with a Briggs Intek v-twin, 17 hp, and so far, so good; the motor works well. But the consistency of these Intek stories isn't making me feel warm and fuzzy. I watch the oil like a hawk and am thinking about adding more venting around the engine to keep things cool.

I am no defender of Briggs, or their Intek engines, but I am sure that there is a lot more here to this saga.....

finish it...they all went out to mow...etc (keep it clean,no limericks like , there once was a man from Kent who had a...you know what I mean)

TheCaffeinatedOne said:

Bletchh. Any suggestions for an affordable, well built replacement engine?

I had a Kawasaki on my garden tractor that did yeoman duty for 20 years until I screwed up when changing the oil - and it blew to smithereens. I replaced it with a Briggs Intek v-twin, 17 hp, and so far, so good; the motor works well. But the consistency of these Intek stories isn't making me feel warm and fuzzy. I watch the oil like a hawk and am thinking about adding more venting around the engine to keep things cool.

Click to expand...

Between expressos consider adding at least a sump oil temp gauge, and/or an oil pressure gauge. I have also suggested overheat temp warning lites in this forum. I am working on an arm with a rubber hammer that strikes the operator in the noggin- like in the 3 stooges. No one is interested in the gauges.

motoman said:

Between expressos consider. . .

Click to expand...

I don't think that gives me much time.

Kurtis D. Davis said:

Update Briggs & Stratton Warranty Claim: Well folks, after a time of about 76 days, there is still no final decision as to whether or not my warranty will be honored or voided. A request for help regarding the warranty issue was made to a factory representative on Friday, August 2, 2013, who fully agreed that time elapsed was (is) ridiculous---the man said "give me a few days to get things settled", and that was 10 days ago. Could be final word will be soon forthcoming---I'll try to keep you posted on how things turn out.

Once again, thanks to Lawn World and other individuals for help, aid, and support, made possible by this forum.

Click to expand...

Update Briggs & Stratton Warranty Claim: OK guys, here's the latest development concerning Briggs & Stratton warranty claim---after a time of about 112 days, the authorized service dealer is offering a brand new replacement engine, which requires paying a $25.00 bench fee for evaluation of the old engine. I am inclined to accept this offer, especially because it minimizes loss and gets the matter settled. I need to be using an engine, not arguing about warranty. My loss is limited to around $150.00 cash, labor to load & unload my machine twice, labor to mount, dismount, and remount the engine, and Johnson grass about six foot tall (lot's of it).

This deal is not done yet, and I'll believe it's concluded once I return to mowing. Might be about to get the warranty claim settled up---we'll see how it goes.

So you represented yourself out of court? Sounds good.

So far we have negotiated settlement out of court. If the matter ends up in court, it's just going to drag things out all the longer, and it's been well over three months already. All I ever wanted was a top quality Briggs & Stratton engine to replace the one which gave 20 years of excellent performance---no more or less. I hope to put in a final update soon. I really think the Briggs & Stratton people should review their warranty and cleaning instructions for the air cooling system---I figure the existing situation will be nothing but trouble for them. In addition to meeting definition of fraud, the manual confuses everything, because I am sure the engine failed due to overheat, brought about by over-fueling combined with friction heat from "break in". I think it over-fueled because the intake valve was open too wide, or the nonadjustable carburetor screwed up---I do not believe the air cooling system had anything to do with failure.