Briggs 6.5 Air Fliter Gasket not working

PickerBenny

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Threads
6
Messages
12
Hello, I have about 10 6.5 Briggs engines. Rebuilt the carbs and bought brand new Briggs and Stratton air filter gaskets. All of the engines are primer to start. Even with the new gaskets on, they still won't prime. So frustrated. I even tried doubling up the gaskets and that still doesn't work. How do I fix these issues?
 

Bod

Member
Joined
May 30, 2015
Threads
0
Messages
34
First, air filter gaskets have nothing to do with priming the carb.
Second, why 10 engines that wont prime?
Third, explain please in more detail.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,705
First, air filter gaskets have nothing to do with priming the carb.
Second, why 10 engines that wont prime?
Third, explain please in more detail.
Well actually the gasket is impoerant for the Quantum sries where the prime is a shot of air into the float an not a shpt of gas down the guts like on a spirit.
 

logan01

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2014
Threads
7
Messages
313
Well actually the gasket is impoerant for the Quantum sries where the prime is a shot of air into the float an not a shpt of gas down the guts like on a spirit.

I was wondering the same thing until I pulled up some pics and saw how it functioned. Never seen one before and don't think I'd want that style. With that said, could there be another source and not the gasket not sealing?
 

PickerBenny

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Threads
6
Messages
12
I'm still not sure why it isn't seating correctly either. The old gaskets are scrapped off without any scoring on the aluminum. I've tried everything. I even changed out the air filter housings in case any of them were warped.

I bought 33 push mowers to flip for $150. 10 of which are the Briggs 6.5 with primer on the air filter. Engines have good compression , even if I put my hand over the carb there is lots of suction. But priming gas, thats not working on any of them. I even went through every tiny opening with a bread tie wire to ensure all the passageways were open. The jet is cleaned out too as well as the bowl and carburetor.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,705
If you have a compressor pull the carb and blow air directly through the throat and chack that it is working.
Also the fuel bowl seal is important.
 

logan01

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2014
Threads
7
Messages
313
Does the bulb pump up any at all? If not I'd also check the bulb but also the "primer chamber" for any cracks.
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
55
Messages
14,769
Have you checked the fuel level in the float bowl. If the float is not sitting level, with the carb tipped upside down, you probably don't have enough fuel in the float bowl for the primer to work properly. The primer is designed to pull fuel up about one inch. Any extra 1/8" will cause the carb to not prime.
 

PickerBenny

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Threads
6
Messages
12
That may be it, how can I check the float level and where it needs to be?
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
55
Messages
14,769
Here is the procedure I use every day. Last part of the procedure explains how I set float height.

Needle and seat replacement

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. I like to set them slightly rich, float slightly lower on the side opposite the float pin. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
 
Top