Hello everyone! I am sorta lost on this one. I have a Briggs 12.5 I/C Model 286707 Type 1141-E1 Code 000125ZE. The engine ran fine last week. I went to start it today and nothing happened. I checked the compression and it is zero. I pulled the head, thinking the gasket was blown. What I instead found was that the intake valve seat had come loose from the block. It was wedged several degrees from away from where it should be. I suppose this means the intake valve was hammering on it as I tried to start it. The valve stem does not see to be bent when I removed the carb and peeked inside. Could this have damaged the engine beyond repair? I am not sure how I should proceed. Thanks in advance for any help.
Briggs 12.4 I/C
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You should be able to put the valve seat back in it recess, and then take a punch and peen around then edge pushing the aluminum back up tight to it. Normally no further damage happens. The twins cylinder engines if no body is paying attention can have some issue with being able to reinstall the seat.
Ok, I'm going to pull the engine (no room to work) tomorrow and have a go at peening. Thank ILENGINE for the advice! I'll post the results.
Ok, the valve seat is back in place and peened. The valves and seats look clean and smooth. However, when I turned the flywheel to close the intake and then the exhaust valve, I shined a light into the carburetor and exhaust port and noticed that I saw little bit of light through the closed valves. Really minimal. Is this normal?
Fish
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No, you will have to take it to a shop and have the seats recut, and should do the valves as well. And the valve stems will have to be ground
as well, to get the gaps correct.
This is needed to be done on any valve seat peening, but while you have it out, peen the other seat as well, then take it to a decent shop,
you already have the block pulled, so they shouldn't charge you too much.
But ask them if they have the capability to recut the seats and valves, and quiz them about it, because even the bigger shops bend the truth
on how they service the valve train, but a good shop should be able to recut the seats and valves, and set the gaps and re-assemble at
a fairly reasonable price, and you take it from there.
as well, to get the gaps correct.
This is needed to be done on any valve seat peening, but while you have it out, peen the other seat as well, then take it to a decent shop,
you already have the block pulled, so they shouldn't charge you too much.
But ask them if they have the capability to recut the seats and valves, and quiz them about it, because even the bigger shops bend the truth
on how they service the valve train, but a good shop should be able to recut the seats and valves, and set the gaps and re-assemble at
a fairly reasonable price, and you take it from there.
Thanks for the advice, Fish! I will take the engine down to the local machine shop.