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Bolens/MTD lawn tractor with 38 inch deck lots of small problems

#1

U

ukiltmybrutha

Hi,

I have the subject mower and it has had numerous quirks during the nearly 10 years that I have owned it.

I'd like to know if you can help me start to knock these items out. I really have spent a fortune on it over time and it does cut but it has numerous issues.

1st problem:

The tractor randomly does not start. When it fails to start, all you hear is a click. The only way to get it started is to quickly turn the key (usually 20-30 times) and then it starts fine. Rocking the mower back and forth during this time seems to help as well. Vehicle has a new ignition switch and I am running a car battery which didn't fix it.

2nd problem:

Somewhat tied to the 1st one possibly?? If the mower sits for a few days even after running for a few hours (I verified the battery is being charged), the battery dies. The battery dies even if I remove both terminals to it after mowing. I got so sick of problem 1 and 2 I decided to use a large car battery. This helped a bit, but I am glad my battery has a handle because it is always needing to be charged....and yes it is any car battery that I use.

3rd problem:

There is a wire that I disconnected years ago after not being able to get the tractor started. I removed this wire and the tractor would start and vice versa. Does anyone know where it goes?? It is the black pictured wire which ends in a female spade at the extreme right hand side of the pic.




4th problem:

Getting off of the Seat no longer causes the tractor to shut off. I can mow in reverse, that is pretty neat....but I'd like to at least have the option of having it cut off when getting off the seat or throwing it in reverse. Maybe the wire from the 3rd problem has something to do with the second?

5th problem:

The PTO blades do not completely disengage when I turn them off. They slow down to about half speed or maybe a little bit less.
I just swapped all 3 belts and put the spring back in the right place but this did not resolve it.

Thanks for any help with any or all of these problems!!


#2

BlazNT

BlazNT

Very well thought out and written. With 2 exceptions with are the most important ones. Mower model number and engine model number.


#3

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
Very well thought out and written. With 2 exceptions with are the most important ones. Mower model number and engine model number.
Click to expand...

Hehe, thank you. I have been mowing with my tractor, push mower, and weed eater as well as fixing the tractor, and can hardly walk. I'll check into the engine and EDIT: REPORT BACK...lol I am tired.

Model Number: 13AM762F065

Thank you!


#4

BlazNT

BlazNT

So I got your engine model number.
Recap for all that are going to help
Mower model number 13AM762F065
Enginemodel number 752B0827B1


#5

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
So I got your engine model number.
Recap for all that are going to help
Mower model number 13AM762F065
Enginemodel number 752B0827B1
Click to expand...

Thank you very much. This information has also been noted.


#6

BlazNT

BlazNT

Ok so I will start with what electrical testing tools do you have?
Seat switch is easy to test. If it is a 2 wire then you test continuity between the spade connectors with wire unplugged. No one on seat one reading some one on seat and it will flipflop. If it is a 4 wire switch then you test the same except with no one on seat one will be open and the other closed. Then it will flip flop on each one tested.
2 wire switch normally open when no one is on seat and closed when someone is on seat.
4 wire switch is a 2 switches in one switch. Normally open and normally closed switch. Some one in seat and it is closed and open.


#7

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
Ok so I will start with what electrical testing tools do you have?
Seat switch is easy to test. If it is a 2 wire then you test continuity between the spade connectors with wire unplugged. No one on seat one reading some one on seat and it will flipflop. If it is a 4 wire switch then you test the same except with no one on seat one will be open and the other closed. Then it will flip flop on each one tested.
2 wire switch normally open when no one is on seat and closed when someone is on seat.
4 wire switch is a 2 switches in one switch. Normally open and normally closed switch. Some one in seat and it is closed and open.
Click to expand...

I have a pretty good arsenal of tools and an electronics background.

I have a VOM and a DC Clamp meter.

I am familiar with the switch (2 wire in this case), just not sure where the wire ultimately ends up. Great starting point.


#8

BlazNT

BlazNT

The wire normally ends up at the coil as a kill wire/ground. If it is removed fron the coil the engine will start but not turn off. I was getting to that after the switch testing.
I like to go one thing at a time.


#9

U

ukiltmybrutha

Switch tested fine. I did notice that the engine takes a bit longer to shut off after removing the mystery wire


#10

BlazNT

BlazNT

ukiltmybrutha said:
Switch tested fine. I did notice that the engine takes a bit longer to shut off after removing the mystery wire
Click to expand...

It would not shut off at all until it ran out of gas.
Problem 3 looks like headlight wire maybe. Im still looking for schematic. To pin point it.


#11

BlazNT

BlazNT

For problem #3 what color is the wire? if it is covered in something it needs to be slid or peeled back to know what color it is.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

1 ) adjust the valves.
If lack of proper maintenance has not wrecked the engine and over loading the starter has not wrecked it you might get away by doing a full and proper service

2) battery is buggered good chance caused by problem 1.
Replace it with a sealed LAWNMOWER battery not a cheap flooded cell car battery and if you want the best get a pressure valve regulated ( PVR ) adsorbent glass mat ( AGM ) battery.

3) take the engine cover off, only 4 teeny tiny little bolts as see where the wire goes to.
99% chance it is the cut out wire to the coil.
If the mower won't run with it connected then you have a problem with the safety circuits that needs to be addressed.

4) yes you have already defeated all of the safety devices designed to protect you from hurting yourself if you do something really stupid like trying to mow without being on the mower.

5) only 1 of the 3 belts has anything to do with the blades, namely the deck belt, part no 954-04062.
The mower will not drive properly unless you fitted genuine MTD belts to the varidrive or certified OEM replacements, NAPA belts just do not work, for very long.
There were 2 springs on the deck that pull 2 brake pads onto the pulleys to stop the blades rotating.
They wear out over time and need to be replaced as do the springs.
If you fitted a cheapo car parts store deck belt there is a 99% chance it was wrong


#13

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
For problem #3 what color is the wire? if it is covered in something it needs to be slid or peeled back to know what color it is.
Click to expand...
It is black, thank you.


#14

U

ukiltmybrutha

bertsmobile1 said:
1 ) adjust the valves.
If lack of proper maintenance has not wrecked the engine and over loading the starter has not wrecked it you might get away by doing a full and proper service

2) battery is buggered good chance caused by problem 1.
Replace it with a sealed LAWNMOWER battery not a cheap flooded cell car battery and if you want the best get a pressure valve regulated ( PVR ) adsorbent glass mat ( AGM ) battery.

3) take the engine cover off, only 4 teeny tiny little bolts as see where the wire goes to.
99% chance it is the cut out wire to the coil.
If the mower won't run with it connected then you have a problem with the safety circuits that needs to be addressed.

4) yes you have already defeated all of the safety devices designed to protect you from hurting yourself if you do something really stupid like trying to mow without being on the mower.

5) only 1 of the 3 belts has anything to do with the blades, namely the deck belt, part no 954-04062.
The mower will not drive properly unless you fitted genuine MTD belts to the varidrive or certified OEM replacements, NAPA belts just do not work, for very long.
There were 2 springs on the deck that pull 2 brake pads onto the pulleys to stop the blades rotating.
They wear out over time and need to be replaced as do the springs.
If you fitted a cheapo car parts store deck belt there is a 99% chance it was wrong
Click to expand...

Thank you very much.

as to 1) Any tutorials on adjusting the valves that you happen to like? I have never come close to doing anything like this, but would rather give it a shot as opposed to the shops in my area who have a tendency to make things worse.

as to 2) I had no idea that car batteries weren't so great for lawn tractors. I did a lot of research before I removed and tossed all of the battery supports, converted my battery terminals to pricey quick disconnect car battery terminals ,and made a custom frame to support the car battery.

as to 3) Where are those 4 little bolts? I don't see anything on the red plastic looking engine cover besides a nut facing the headlights.

as to 4) Not willfully BTW.....

as to 5) I am running the mentioned MTD Belt. All belts are genuine. I believe that only one spring is used on this mower not 2. There is only one tensioner. I think the double spring setup is for the larger decks. Please see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-QxvXj32w at around 7:45 seconds. So you are suggesting that I replace both the springs and brake pads? BTW, is there a special tool to make my life easier when pulling the springs? I just don't have the strength and/or leverage most of the time.


#15

BlazNT

BlazNT

http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_06667_700_series_riders.pdf
That is your service manual. I found no black wire for your mower except the negative one from battery.


#16

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_06667_700_series_riders.pdf
That is your service manual. I found no black wire for your mower except the negative one from battery.
Click to expand...

Thank you!! Nice manual.

With your help, I have eliminated problem #3. The wire disconnected was to the coil! I reconnected it and started it back up with no issues this time!

Two positive changes now:

a) The tractor now dies when put into reverse with the PTO on.

b) The tractor now shuts down immediately when turning it off as opposed to taking a few seconds.


#17

U

ukiltmybrutha

ukiltmybrutha said:
Thank you!! Nice manual.

With your help, I have eliminated problem #3. The wire disconnected was to the coil! I reconnected it and started it back up with no issues this time!

Two positive changes now:

a) The tractor now dies when put into reverse with the PTO on.

b) The tractor now shuts down immediately when turning it off as opposed to taking a few seconds.
Click to expand...

Coming off of the seat does not stop the mower though and all other issues still persist.

On the right track though!


#18

BlazNT

BlazNT

"5th problem:

The PTO blades do not completely disengage when I turn them off. They slow down to about half speed or maybe a little bit less.
I just swapped all 3 belts and put the spring back in the right place but this did not resolve it."

The deck is on hangers. Check all the mounting points for correct shape and size hole. Make sure all mounting hardware is not bent.


#19

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
"5th problem:

The PTO blades do not completely disengage when I turn them off. They slow down to about half speed or maybe a little bit less.
I just swapped all 3 belts and put the spring back in the right place but this did not resolve it."

The deck is on hangers. Check all the mounting points for correct shape and size hole. Make sure all mounting hardware is not bent.
Click to expand...

I will tell you that the front hanger is pretty bent forward because I had jacked it up from that point. I hope that isn't the case because I could not even hammer that point back to it's original shape.

So some new good news and some bad news....

I verified that the seat switch is working. Thanks for the manual. I never stopped to think that the tractor wouldn't shut off if left in park with PTO off, so I rode it and then picked my behind off of the seat with it running....and it shut off!

The bad news is that I broke off about half of the flywheel air vanes when putting the cover back on. The oil dipstick rubbed against it and broke them.

I'll keep it in this thread instead of starting a new one....but was wondering if I can get away with missing fins or if I need to replace it. If I need to replace it, just wondering how hard it will be to do so...or if it even replaceable.

I did a quick search for vanes, fan, and flywheel but did not see anything that helped.

Getting closer on the fan vanes.

Also, I took a look at the front of the engine so that I could search the B&S site.

Stamped on the engine was:

Model: 31A607

Type: 0458

Code: E1070817ZA

I was able to get a repair manual, but not a parts manual so far.

Thanks


#20

U

ukiltmybrutha

I ordered what I believe to be the right fan. So all I have left is the PTO issue and the hard start issue.

Note on the PTO issue....I only notice tension on the PTO lever when it is about 60 percent towards the "on" position and the on position.


#21

B

bertsmobile1

ukiltmybrutha said:
Thank you very much.

as to 1) Any tutorials on adjusting the valves that you happen to like? I have never come close to doing anything like this, but would rather give it a shot as opposed to the shops in my area who have a tendency to make things worse.

Taryl fixes all if you can cope with the psuedo violent humour or Donnyboy87 if dead pan flat presentation is more to your likeing.

as to 2) I had no idea that car batteries weren't so great for lawn tractors. I did a lot of research before I removed and tossed all of the battery supports, converted my battery terminals to pricey quick disconnect car battery terminals ,and made a custom frame to support the car battery.

Other way round the mowers bugger the car battery because there is no regulation and poor rectification , add mechanical issues from vibration & no suspension . Mower, motorcycle & 4WD batteries are made stronger than most car batteries
as to 3) Where are those 4 little bolts? I don't see anything on the red plastic looking engine cover besides a nut facing the headlights.

2 at the front pointing forward & 2 at the back pointing backwards but as you broke the fan, sounds like you got the cover off.
as to 4) Not willfully BTW.....

as to 5) I am running the mentioned MTD Belt. All belts are genuine. I believe that only one spring is used on this mower not 2. There is only one tensioner. I think the double spring setup is for the larger decks. Please see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH-QxvXj32w at around 7:45 seconds. So you are suggesting that I replace both the springs and brake pads? BTW, is there a special tool to make my life easier when pulling the springs? I just don't have the strength and/or leverage most of the time.
With the PTO off the belt goes slack so it can slip, however without the brakes working the pulleys get enough contact to keep the blades turning.
engine off, put the PTO lever in the off position then check you can slip the belt, then try to move the blades , you should feel a lot of resistance.
To work with springs, make a hook in a length of heavy wire or thin rod, wrap the other end around a handle so it forms a T handle.
I use old tube wrenches because I have a lot of them and they have a nice hole in the middle to wrap the wire through.
Cut it to the length you need so you are pulling strait and have something to brace yourself against.
In tight spots you make a double or trebble loop with tie wire to hook the tool through then cut it off when the spring is on.

/QUOTE]

Your parts book is available as a free download from the Briggs & Stratton web site Support section.
Click to expand...


#22

BlazNT

BlazNT

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18ktwHXUnfBhU7y.pdf
Parts manual.

Hard start:
If you have not done so you need to adjust your lifters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-XlET33VHM


#23

U

ukiltmybrutha

BlazNT said:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18ktwHXUnfBhU7y.pdf
Parts manual.

Hard start:
If you have not done so you need to adjust your lifters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-XlET33VHM
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info guys! Hopefully I can report back with some good final news!


#24

U

ukiltmybrutha

Hi everyone.

So the PTO cable was actually bad and I went to replace it. I suspected this since the cable would not start to do anything at all (no tension at all) until it reached about 40% of the on position.

Everything is now fine except for the random clicking when attempting to start the tractor. I'll adjust the valves and lifters etc. I wonder if part of the problem was the fact that the blades were spinning during startup causing more load on the battery.

Anyways, I'll go ahead and adjust lifters/valves when I can.

Thank you!


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