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I had to borrow a Generac 5000 w generator from the neighbor after Irene. The only way to keep it running was to choke it. When I tried to to adjust the high speed needle, fuel dripped from a tube at the bottom of the fuel bowl. Closing the the screw stopped the drip.This generator had set idle for some time on a cranberry dry picker, but he said if I could get it running , I could use it. The engine is a 9 hp Briggs Vanguard single cylinder. The tube sticks downward about a half inch at the bottom of the bowl and has bulge as if a rubber tube would be attached. What is this tube for? I don't have the manual and I've never seen a carb with this tube.

Hi
If it will only run with the choke on it would point to a blocked main jet.
Take the carb off and clean it. If the main jet will unscrew from the carb take it out and clean it if not soak the carb in carb cleaner for a few hours.
Not sure what the pipe is for could it be an overflow pipe have had a look on the B&S web site and they do not show anything with a tube?

Link to B&S
Maintenance & Repair - Briggs & Stratton

I have this same one, with the Walbro carb (10hp) Main jet is clear. Same as the other passages. I ran different size wires through it, then some carb cleaner. All the passages from the front of the carb are clean enough to get plenty of carb clean through them. Even the tiny ones in the venturi. It'll run fine off of choke for a while. But starts bogging down again.
Gonna order a kit for it today, and give it a good cleaning in the US (when power gets restored)

Remove the carburettor, disassemble it and clean it properly
You will find detailed instruction one the outdoor power Equipment site
Two specific problems come to mind
1) blockage in the float needle & seat
2) blocked up main jet

We really need either a photo of the carb or the model & type nubers off the engine as there are a lot of different 9Hp B & S engines.

The original post is almost 9 years old, he likely has it resolved by now.

bertsmobile1 said:

Remove the carburettor, disassemble it and clean it properly
You will find detailed instruction one the outdoor power Equipment site
Two specific problems come to mind
1) blockage in the float needle & seat
2) blocked up main jet

We really need either a photo of the carb or the model & type nubers off the engine as there are a lot of different 9Hp B & S engines.

Click to expand...

I have a screw driver I grinded the edges off of, to use for those main jets, to no touch the threads. But still have trouble getting some of them out. If it starts breaking off the slot (on the end of the jet), that's when I stop. Do you have a fool proof way of getting them all out?

Romore said:

The original post is almost 9 years old, he likely has it resolved by now.

Click to expand...

I was researching my problem, and this popped up.

For jets I use a 4" ratchet and loose bits.
You should be able to get a set for under $ 10 US
By using that you cah push down ( or up ) really hard while turning.
THe hex of the bits ( 1/4" or 5mm depending which market they were made for ) holds the bit reasonably true in the main jet tube.
You can use a 1/4" spanner if you like.
Find a bit that is a really good fit in the main jet slot then keep it in yoour drawer for "special tools" with the appropriate spannar .

Like this?

no
A set like one of these where you can bear down hard on the jet to prevent it jumping out of the slot
I use Irwin bits that I buy in a 5 pack of a single size
4.5's or 5's are the size from memory


Get a good handle mine is a Bacho but not quite the same as the one in the photo that I pinched of Ebay
In the mobile kits I have a couple of Kingchromes tha have a hex in the end of the handle so they can be used both as a ratchet or a normal screwdriver
Then it is carb in the vice between wooden false jaws and full body weight on the driver while you turn it
If they give me grief they might get a 1/2 hour in the ultra sound to clean up the threads a little.

I am sure Snap On will have a horribly overpriced driver you can buy as a stand alone item.
Do not get any of the ones with an exposed ratchet wheel they are all rubbish.
Go another one with 1/4 square driver on one side & 1/4" hex on the other which is real handy .
You can also try a 1/4" socket head with a screwdriver bit on a 3/8 ratchet

If you are into making tools you can weld an old Allan key across a 1/4 socket head to make a T handle then drop a close fit screw driver bit into the socket.

Lots of ways to do it .
Irwin do a line of impact driver bits in 1/4" hex and they are what I use as they are a better finish and do not chip off on the corners
You can get them in 5 & 10 packs of a single size once you find the size that fits tight.

The key to remove if they are not too overly stuck is the straight sided hollow grind flat blade tip bits. Just grinding the side of a regular flat blade screwdriver will not work as well as it will tend to climb (cam) out.

I have a set of hollow ground gunsmithing screwdrivers. These are great for removing jets. Better than grinding the edges off a standard screwdriver. If the jet is really stuck i soak it a day or 2 with Seafoam Deep Creep.
While you are buying screwdrivers consider a set of JIS screwdrivers. Contrary to popular belief most cross slot screws on mowers are JIS and not phillips. Those real tight bowl screws just don't fit a #2 phillips but a JIS driver fits perfect