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I recently just got a brush mower with a 8hp Briggs industrial plus horrizontal shaft . Some one had tried to get it running before I got it and I'm not sure what they had messed with . I cleaned the tank, replaced the petcock, new fuel lines , air filter , new fuel pump . Cleaned the carb by taking it apart and dunking it then spraying with carb cleaner and compressed air . I found the previous person didn't remove the jets because they came out hard . So I got it running but it hunts and surges . Almost dieing and small backfire at times . I checked for intake leaks with carb cleaner but nothing seems to stand out but it's also running bad enough that I'm not sure you could tell .I'm kinda running out of ideas . Thanks for any input

Post the Model And type numbers Please...

You got me stumped on a new fuel pump.

Model # 196422 type# 0162-01

I see that it had holes in the housing where a fuel pump was, so I put a new one on . Parts diagram also showed one . I put a little different one on because the one that was made for it is not made anymore .

Question for you.

Where is the tank at ?? Is it on the engine or on the frame of the brush cutter ?

It's right on the motor, the carb is about the same height as the tank so idk if it would gravity feed look like picture that's attached

It's gravity fed.

I could be wrong though. Take the pump out and try that ~!~!

I'll give it a go but it's even got a fitting out of the crankcase for a vacume line for the fuel pump so I'm pretty sure it belongs there but won't take a few minutes to by pass it and try it

If it has a line in it then leave it on.. Can you take some pics for us to see what YOUR engine looks like ??

Yup , will do in the morning !!!

Ok I might not get on here until the PM but Bert might chime in.

Did you get all hook ups in the right order ?? In out vac side etc.

Vortec325 said:

I recently just got a brush mower with a 8hp Briggs industrial plus horrizontal shaft . Some one had tried to get it running before I got it and I'm not sure what they had messed with . I cleaned the tank, replaced the petcock, new fuel lines , air filter , new fuel pump . Cleaned the carb by taking it apart and dunking it then spraying with carb cleaner and compressed air . I found the previous person didn't remove the jets because they came out hard . So I got it running but it hunts and surges . Almost dieing and small backfire at times . I checked for intake leaks with carb cleaner but nothing seems to stand out but it's also running bad enough that I'm not sure you could tell .I'm kinda running out of ideas . Thanks for any input

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Hunting or surging, especially under no load can be caused by a lean mixture. If your carb has an adjustable jet, try opening it, 1/8 turn at a time until the surging goes away.

If that doesn't do it, or you have no adjustable jet, you'll have to clean the carb again, this time rodding out all the passages you can get to, with fine wire, torch tip cleaners or whatever you can make do. Just today, I had to fix (again) a 6 hp Briggs engine that had the same problem as yours. All I used was a paper clip, torch tip cleaner and compressed air of the high pressure (80 psi) variety. Sometimes soaking and spray cleaners just won't do it.

Yup I've checked everything is hooked up right . It pumps about a 18oz water bottle full in 30 seconds by just pulling it over . This carb is non adjustable . I've cleaned it with a paper clip then dunked and sprayed probably 3 times now . I put a new plug in to rule that out and after some running it is blacker than the ace of spades and it blows black smoke when it has its issues

Vortec325 said:

This carb is non adjustable . I've cleaned it with a paper clip then dunked and sprayed probably 3 times now . I put a new plug in to rule that out and after some running it is blacker than the ace of spades and it blows black smoke when it has its issues

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Regardless of what you've done to the carburetor, it isn't fixed. Consider replacing it with a new one.

I've considered replacing the carb but it's a little over $100 and didn't want to spend that much on a old motor and not have that be the issue

Well if it ain't leaking air and it ain't got a blockage in the fuel tank and it ain't got a blocked fuel line and it is surging then the carb ain't letting enough fuel through.
The only other possibility is a leaking head gasket but you will hear see & small that.

Take the float bowl off turn the fuel on and work the float with your finger checking for a good fuel flow each and every time you let the float drop.

Well I do have oil on the top end but I can't find where it's coming out of . I just thought it was because the plug loosened up and I don't notice . I'll check the float but it's kinda a bitch because I got a fuel pump on it and it don't pump unless I'm yanking it over

Ok try this this first. Take the breather off. It is on the side of the engine and look at the valves while you are spinning it over. Both springs should be moving back and forth........... The gasket most of the times 95 % stays intact if you are careful.

I f they are doing like they should then it is time to take the flywheel off and check the key. On your style cutter which reminds me of the old Yazoo cutters really don't shear keys because it is a belt driven type machine as in a rider mower.

It is possible though to shear a key on a back fire scenario...... Or a flywhell that has not been tightened down enough.

Post the code number also. It's the numbers after the type #'s

Code #9606121c

I've already looked and the valves are working . I guess I'll take the flywheel off and have a look

Ok that is a 1996 model engine. That's the date it was made not sold. No telling when it was sold. If a flywheel key is partailly sheared it can backfire.

Advanced is a good thing cause we used to build those engines for racing Karts. 5 HP mostly in the modified class and super stock.

How do know the valves are working ? You took the breather off of the block earlier ?

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

It doesn't really backfire bad but it does cough threw the carb while it's running . Sometimes it will backfire when you start it and it first fires . Yeah I had a new breather on the shelf so I stuck it on earlier to eliminate a base pressure build up and saw that both valves are working . They seem kinda noisy when running but I saw no way to adjust them

A lil noisy you say. Hmmmmm You might have a seat that came loose. One sure fire way to check it would be to take the head off.

5 bux for new gasket is all it's gonna cost you.

That engine is worth rebuilding. I think that one is a I/C type engine with a iron bore cylinder.

I hate say this, but if the seats are in place well, you can get a aftermarket OUCH carb and try that..

The china carbs are cheap and usually with free shipping..........

Before you go pulling the head off check the flywheel key first. Make sure to take the wheel off and look at the key well.

I seen in post 12 that you said the plug would be black. That is a symptom of a leaky valve.

(They seem kinda noisy when running but I saw no way to adjust them) That is your post or part of it. So yes there is a way to adjust them. I would relap them if your seats are in good shape. Then check the gap between the tappits and the valve stem.

If they don't have the right gap then you have to grind the stems down, taking very little off at one time. If you have hardly no gap then the valves cannot seat properly and hence are kinda open at all times.

Ok , I'll check the fly wheel key . But you might be on to something with the valve seat . The plug is very black and it got that way in a matter of minutes . When I used it the other day for the first time (been sitting for YEARS, atleast 6 that I know of) I run some mixed gas threw it but in order for it to start and get prime I put a a squirt of starting fluid in the plug hole and hand tightend the plug . Well I forgot to tighten it down snug and after a few minutes of running there was oil that seemed to be coming from the spark plug whole . When I took the plug out to look at it, the combustion chamber is very oily and has a lot of carbon compared to my other similar motor . So it could very well be a valve seat . You happen to know the valve specs by chance ?

Our whole area with Charter went down for a hour or so.

No Phone Internet Nada.

Sorry for the late response. Check that key first and let us know.

That is an awesome machine right there dat you got Mon Ami. I would love to have dat down here. LOL

Too much shipping though for me.....

If ya'll ever vacation down here in Cajun Country stop by and we will cook some great Cajun food and play some some great Cajun music for ya'll.

I do a Cajun music show with Todd on Thursday evenings sometimes and we cook at the station sometimes. I can get you on the air as a guest if you want to talk on the mike.

KBON 101.1 FM down load the app on your phone and listen live for free or just go yo KBON on your home PC and listen live.....

I'll have to check it out when I get some free time . No worry on the late response . It's 3:30 am here so I'm just getting up for work . I'll check that key way today I hope and report back

I took the pull start and shroud off but before I pull the flywheel I got a few questions . First , I can see the key is in the key way and doesn't look messed up . Do I still need to pull it off ? And if so should I pull the coil off ? What's the gap for the coil and lastly the magnets on the flywheel are kinda rusty . Would it work better if i cleaned them up?

Go ahead and pull the flywheel, then clean the magnets the coil gap you can use a business card for that.

Get the magnets lined up with coil. The mags will suck the coil tight. Press on the coil towards the flywheel and tighten the 2 bolts.

The reason I say to pull the fly is some people will look at the half of the key and say it's good. They are forgetting to look at the other half in the shaft.

Ok thanks for the wisdom ??

One more question for you. Does it seem like it good compression when you pull the rope or half good.

Is it easy to pull are hard ?

Feels like it has good compression but if I pull it slow I can almost hear some leaking out of the carb .

Ok that's what I needed to know. Let us know what the key looks like.

I hope this short vid helps you out.

https://youtu.be/RTZ7V4A1e58

I pulled the flywheel off and the key looks fine

Finally got a chance to watch your video , your right Bou. The intake valve was fine but the exhaust valve isn't sitting in the seat right, or the seat has worked it's way up . Valve has like .022 of lash

Now it's time to take the head off ~!~!

I've got the head off, looks like the exhaust valve isn't sitting in the seat all the way . Pulled the valve and cleaned the carbon off of it with emery cloth and lapped the valve in . Got the valve lash better but still looks like the exhaust valve isn't seating right

Is the seat in the block all the way ??

Looks like it , sitting about the same as the intake valve seat . I tried wiggling it around and it isn't loose . I'll take a picture for yah here in a minute

Something looks funny about that. Hope it's not bent. Anyway you might as at well do this............

https://youtu.be/0w2BRxAiUKw

You just need to lap them sometimes instead of grinding them on a machine.

With the each valve completely 'down', push on the valve head with your thumb and rotate. If the valve will rotate easily, it isn't seated. Seated valves are difficult to rotate.

How much valve clearance do you have?

Didn't look bent , I've lapped it till I have only .006 of lash . I tried pushing on it with my thumb and turning but it didn't turn . Maybe it is bent ? Guess I can take it back out and look closer

No, re-read my post. NOT being able to turn the valve with your thumb is good. Having .006" of lash is good, too.

Rotate the engine until the valve is off its seat and do the thumb test again. You'll see what I mean.

Yah I know what you meant , must have worded my reply messed up . What I was trying to say is that it passed the test but still looks wired like what BOU said . I was thinking it could be bent and still not rotate ? Doesn't look bent tho . Before I lapped it I had like .022 of lash, so maybe just that causing my surging issues . Thanks for the replies fellas ??

I should add that the valve guide on the exhaust side is a little worn out not terrible . Still "pops" when you put you finger over it and pull the valve out . But deffinatley not as tight as it should be

Vortec325 said:

Yah I know what you meant , must have worded my reply messed up . What I was trying to say is that it passed the test but still looks wired like what BOU said . I was thinking it could be bent and still not rotate ? Doesn't look bent tho . Before I lapped it I had like .022 of lash, so maybe just that causing my surging issues . Thanks for the replies fellas 

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It's the friction of the valve face against the seat that prevents the valve from turning.

I've never heard of engine surging being caused by valve problems. But since that was the way you chose to go, I thought I'd play along. I'll be really surprised if this fixes the surging.

But, I've been wrong before and will be wrong again.

Haha you don't learn from being right . Well I've checked every thing else . Started out checking for intake leaks and found nothing . Cleaned the carb multiple times . Kept doing it . Pulled the plug hoping it was lean but it was black and oily and had deposits on it . So that lead me to think it wasn't running lead and was burning some oil . Then from some advice that you can see in previous posts that it was advised to look at the possibility that the valves were messed up . I'm up for any suggestions tho

Vortec325 said:

I should add that the valve guide on the exhaust side is a little worn out not terrible . Still "pops" when you put you finger over it and pull the valve out . But deffinatley not as tight as it should be

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What do you mean by it pops ?? Sorry I had to go to the radio station and do a show from 6 to 10. My wife Missy cooked a chicken stew....

Put my finger over the valve guide , pulled the valve out and it made like a suction "pop" indicating that the clearances are somewhat tight because it could still make a vacume when pullling the valve out

Ok that kind of pop........


C Purvis a few posts earlier he mention a cough back thru the carb and tapping noise. Also the spark plug being black.

That is why I steered him in the valve area. The surging problem will come later if he can get the valves right.