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Thanks for the add, Hello everyone in the Hustler world. I recently purchased use a Hustler 52” mower model # 934794. The owner assured me it ran perfect and had no issues. I drove 6.5 hours round trip to purchase the mower and with all used purchases we assume the risk. I have 3 acres to mow and have been for the past year accomplishing this with a 48” Rider (Pony) that came with the house. This would mean that I mowed every 5 days to keep from wearing the mower out and doing this at the slowest possible speeds. I purchased the Hustler in hope to improve the cut and time to complete this chore every week. After about 30 minutes I felt as the right side had no power and would rely on the movement of the left to continue mowing. I thought the mower was a little slow compared to the 60” we have owned in the past. I associated this to the current 52” is a contractor warehouse model sold at the local Home Depot or Lowes, usually not as stout as one manufactured for the commercial dealers.
I have downloaded what I can find on line as the service manual, however it is very limited and not very informative. Before I just take this mower to the shop and get taken for what they want to abuse me for I would like to change the oil in the drive unit and filter if there is one. I have not been able to find any videos on youtube that cover this model. The video I have seen show the mower as having an oil reservoir under the seat next to the gas tank. This mower does not have this. I am pretty good with a wrench so would like to try to make any repairs myself first.
Any suggestions and experience would be greatly appreciated.

So on the surface that sounds like one of the hydros is going soft after being warmed up.
That Hydro has no Reserve oil tank it is all self-contained and pretty much non serviceable.... they are used on tons of different brands of mowers and usually are pretty good on reliability.
I would guess unless you can find a reason that a belt is slipping over there on that side once warmed up it would be the hydro.
Others may chime in but I am thinking that possibly if you have a $10 digital thermometer maybe you could check the temperature difference between hydros and possibly the one that is slipping would get hotter as the oil bypassed?

Agreed and I think it may have an oil filter and I could most likely change the filter and fluid, just have not bee able to obtain the correct information. I downloaded the PDF of what is suppose to be the service manual however it is useless.

Google hydrogear ezt...... pretty sure that will be your hydro

You have the Hydro-Gear EZT ZT2200 transmission. It is called non-serviceable by Hustler and other. B.S. Here is the repair manual.http://www.hydro-gear.com/15f8b96e9b_sites/hydro-gear.com/files/ezt-_zt-2100-2200_.pdf It was designed to use 20w50 Castrol motor oil. Any 20w50 can be used. You can easly remove, drain, and refill in about 4 hours. Most of the time is waiting for oil to drain. When I change the oil in mine (I got water in it) I removed both units as an assembly. Left the tires on and rolled it out and over two containers to catch the oil. Removed the plugs and rolled it up side down. Waited 2 hours for drain then refilled with an old gear oil bottle with bottom cut off for easy filling. The spout is the most important part. It fits the hole and allowes air to escape at the same time.

Forgot to say I got some paint filters from auto parts store to filter oil because it needs to be clean.
I also wet the garage floor so it would be less dusty.

BlazNT gets the hero of the day award on this one......great job!
Makes me proud to be part of such a good forum!

BlazNT said:

You have the Hydro-Gear EZT ZT2200 transmission. It is called non-serviceable by Hustler and other. B.S. It was designed to use 20w50 Castrol motor oil. Any 20w50 can be used. You can easly remove, drain, and refill in about 4 hours. Most of the time is waiting for oil to drain. When I change the oil in mine (I got water in it) I removed both units as an assembly. Left the tires on and rolled it out and over two containers to catch the oil. Removed the plugs and rolled it up side down. Waited 2 hours for drain then refilled with an old gear oil bottle with bottom cut off for easy filling. The spout is the most important part. It fits the hole and allowes air to escape at the same time.
View attachment 34409
Forgot to say I got some paint filters from auto parts store to filter oil because it needs to be clean.
I also wet the garage floor so it would be less dusty.

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Thank you this was a perfect reply. Did you remove the EZT unit from the mower and did you have to purge the unit? If so how did you complete the purge process.

Like I said in my post above I removed both units at the same time. I left the wheels on and rolled it out from under the mower then drained and filled.

Purging is done when you have put everything back together.
1. Raise rear wheels off ground. Brace with jack stands.
2. Pull bypass valves so it freewheels.
3. Get on mower start it and release the brake.
4. Push drive lever full forward for 10 seconds the full reverse for 10 sec. Do the 10 times for forward and 10 times for reverse alternating between each.
5. Return levers to the parked position and set brake. Turn off the mower. Move bypass valve bake to normal operation.
6. Get back on the mower and start it. Do step #4 again.
7. Return levers to the parked position and set brake. Turn off the mower.
8. Return mower to ground.
9. Test for proper working. If not repeat.
10. Check oil level and fill. This is the hardest part. Very little access to the fill port. I used an oil called Zoom Spout. Emptied oil and put 20w50 in it. It works but is slow.

This worked perfect thank you for your help.

Glad to hear and we all love it being posted for a closure.

So just curious.....
What did the oil coming out look like .....did it look like it was extremely dirty?
Metal contamination......water contaminated......or was it just maybe low on oil?
Is it working good now?

kraky said:

So just curious.....
What did the oil coming out look like .....did it look like it was extremely dirty?
Metal contamination......water contaminated......or was it just maybe low on oil?
Is it working good now?

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I think dirty and low. I found the born on date and its about one year old. I think it was just abused and never any maintenance. I need covers for the deck and want to replace the spindles. And the discharge shoot.

It's kind of amazing how some of these people can run a unit in the ground in a year or two's time...yikes..... I'm sure your Hustler is glad to be at home in your garage!

kraky said:

It's kind of amazing how some of these people can run a unit in the ground in a year or two's time...yikes..... I'm sure your Hustler is glad to be at home in your garage!

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I thinks so, I will treat my Hustler like I do my Harley. Cleaned after every use and maintained like it is supposed to.

Might be too late for a reply, but I just joined. I don't have that problem, but, there is a couple very good videos of rebuilding the Hydro-Gear ZT-2200 which is the hydros our mowers have. They do have a filter, but it is internal. One of the videos had that very same issue. It drove fine until it ran for awhile, and that is because the oil thins as it heats up and started blowing by the pump pistons. His issue was the pump housing being aluminum and the pistons being steel, they wore groves in the housing letting oil blow past so would loose pressure once the oil heats up and thins. That part is about $130, for it and the seal kits, but it will save you $600 for a whole new unit. Rebuild seems very straight forward assuming you have mechanical aptitude, you shouldn't have a problem opening it up. His was on a Toro I think, but most consumer ZTRs have the same hydro as ours does. Just search "Hydro-Gear TZ-2200" on Youtube, and you will find a lot of videos on it.

Hello everyone as it is mowing season, the troubles began. Last season I explained the power loss in the transaxles, I did what was recommended here and it helped this year my intention is to rebuild both units. I would like some feed back on what are things to look for and any additional mods that may make it perform better while I have these on the bench.

Also I am going to want to rebuild or replace the spindle shafts this year as I believe they are a little loud when mowing. Which is better just buy whole new assembly for $30 each or purchase the rebuild kit? Again I ask the same question as above any change in the original set up to improve life or performance?

********HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM********NOW FOR THE REAL REASON I POSTED TODAY*******

Mowed last night got the front and side complete another 1.5 acres to be done and the mower stops running in the middle of the yard. I push the clutch switch open the levers and it starts no problem. If I pull the levers in to start moving the mower stalls, if I pull the clutch switch the motor stalls.

Are there modules or solenoids under the control panel that would cause this?

Boxermaniac98 said:

Hello everyone as it is mowing season, the troubles began. Last season I explained the power loss in the transaxles, I did what was recommended here and it helped this year my intention is to rebuild both units. I would like some feed back on what are things to look for and any additional mods that may make it perform better while I have these on the bench.

Also I am going to want to rebuild or replace the spindle shafts this year as I believe they are a little loud when mowing. Which is better just buy whole new assembly for $30 each or purchase the rebuild kit? Again I ask the same question as above any change in the original set up to improve life or performance?

********HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM********NOW FOR THE REAL REASON I POSTED TODAY*******

Mowed last night got the front and side complete another 1.5 acres to be done and the mower stops running in the middle of the yard. I push the clutch switch open the levers and it starts no problem. If I pull the levers in to start moving the mower stalls, if I pull the clutch switch the motor stalls.

Are there modules or solenoids under the control panel that would cause this?

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Sounds like a bad seat switch to me.

Darryl G said:

Sounds like a bad seat switch to me.

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That is where I would start.

BlazNT said:

That is where I would start.

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there is no seat switch it has been removed and wired together.

Boxermaniac98 said:

there is no seat switch it has been removed and wired together.

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Have you checked to see if they are still wired together?

Thank you both so much for this article I knew there was a way to do that but nobody would listen to me I'm a woman I know nothing anyway thank you all so much I've enjoyed sending it to all my friends that told me it wasn't if possible

BlazNT said:

Glad to hear and we all love it being posted for a closure.

Click to expand...

Thank you both so much for this article I knew there was a way to do that but nobody would listen to me I'm a woman I know nothing anyway thank you all so much I've enjoyed sending it to all my friends that told me it wasn't if possible