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$29 Cab

#1

J

JayC

I welded electrical conduit for the frame ($1.20/10'), used clear vinyl sheets ($4/yard) from walmart for windows, and used zip-ties to put the windows in. It isn't completely tight, and surely not heated (although engine heat builds up noticeably behind it), but keeps the wind off and makes all the difference in the world when blowing snow.

JayC

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#2

essasmallengines

essasmallengines

Very nice work:thumbsup:


#3

M

Muhammad

Nice setup... nothing worse than when the wind starts blowing the snow back in your face.


#4

J

JayC

Thanks. Hey, how do I make thumbnails show up in the post instead of just file names?

JayC

edit: Oops - never mind. They just popped up by themselves. Must be ESP.

JayC


#5

I

indypower

$29 versus $300 for a store bought cab. It works so now you have $271 for beer after snowblowing..:thumbsup:


#6

K

KennyV

Hey JayC...
Just had to bring back your SNOW blowing picture during all this heat we are having...
A quick snow shower would feel good today. :smile:KennyV


#7

S

stanley

I have to say, good job. See, this is why I joined here. Great ideas that save money to boot. I think I'll actually print this one up too Thanks.


#8

Craftsman13

Craftsman13

Nice work! it looks good and makes a big difference!:smile:


#9

M

mullins87

Hey, NICE looking LT16!! Is that all original, or have you restored it? I have one that I've raided for parts, but now it's sitting outside behind the tobacco barn since I don't have any place to put it.......kinda makes me sad everytime I see it sitting there. I also have another one that is very similar, only it has the Kohler engine and hydro tranny, but everything else is the same. I think it is a YT18048, but I could be very wrong.

I wish my Hydro looked as good as your LT16. :thumbsup:


#10

F

fastback

Hey that's a nice looking cab. I am also interested in building a cab for my 87 Craftsman GT. Since the tractor will be dedicated to snow removal I would like to fully enclose and leave the cab in place, but at the same time it would be removable. I like the idea and the price of the conduit, but I am thinking that since I use a plow the vibration may be too much and due to the wall thickness the joint may fail. At this point, I am thinking of 1-inch square tubing. I would also like doors etc. What would be a good wigth, hight etc.?

I am wondering if other that have reviewed this thread have tried other framing. I have seen others on the web that are also impressive.

I doubt if I'll be doing anything until this fall or winter. Just thought I'd start getting ideas now.

Thanks for any input and ideas.

Regards,

Paul


#11

reynoldston

reynoldston

I welded electrical conduit for the frame JayC

You must be very good at welding, light stuff electrical conduit.


#12

Grass ala Mowed

Grass ala Mowed

Nice work. If you have a GMAW (MIG) welder with .023 solid wire and gas conduit isn't too hard to weld. Mine goes down to 24 gauge metal.


#13

reynoldston

reynoldston

Nice work. If you have a GMAW (MIG) welder with .023 solid wire and gas conduit isn't too hard to weld. Mine goes down to 24 gauge metal.

I am still in the stone ages with my buzz box welder and would burn up 24 gauge. I do get by with the heavier welding. If I was younger and thought I would use it, and learn to use it, I think I would invest in one.


#14

F

fastback

I hear you. I also have Mig, stick and gas if necessary. I think my concern would not be the welding but the integraty of the joint. Electrical conduit is relatively thin and might rip over time due to vibrations etc. I don't think that there are as many vibratons when you use the snow blower, but with a plow its the banging and sudden stops that might affect the joints or conduit. I know the weld itself will hold its the metal that I am concerned about. I am thinking of using a 1-inch square tubing with a wall thickness of 1/8 inch or better.


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