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2008(I think) L120 problems
#1
X
xray man
X
xray man
I got this mower from my son-in-law. I had to fix a couple of spindles on the deck and it has worked great. It didn't have a manual with it. It's had a few things begin to cause problems.
#1
The safety switch in seat messed up and I found it still worked with switch removed, but I've noticed the svc flashing on hour meter so I guess it ain't happy. I'm replacing next week. Going to work at hunting club this weekend.
#2
I had to jump it off first of the summer. Earlier today I saw somewhere that jumping it off with a vehicle will screw something up. Well, guilty as hell on that charge. It had a 275 cca battery in it, I replaced with 350 cca, which I read was recommended.
I checked the voltage while it was running and had about 12.5 volts. Is that about what it should be showing or is that low as far as recharging the battery? I know my truck shows about 14 volts.
#3
The other evening I was cutting and it went dead. I thought maybe my knee hit the key and shut it off. This was before I had replaced the battery so I had to pull my truck down and jump it off again.
when I started to cut again and pulled the PTO switch out the motor bogged down, I pushed it in before it went dead, did the switch again, it bogged again and I figured the PTO clutch was bad.
All bearings on the deck are good, nothing binding. I got a new clutch from shopgreendealer and put it on and it's still bogging down the engine. I called their tech support and he listened over the phone and said he'd send me another one.
Now I'm wondering if there is something else doing it.
Here's my questions:
#1
Could there be a delayed problem in regard to seat switch being removed, it did work without it.
#2
What should voltage be reading when it's running? What might I have damaged jumping it off?
#3
When I had removed original clutch I could turn it some by hand and it sounded kind of gravelly (as in a piece of gravel/rock). I thought bad bearing or surfaces. The new one I wasn't able to get to move at all. I ain't sure how one in good condition actually works or feels so I reckon I'll have to wait and see when another one arrives. In the meantime, while I'm in Glascock Co. at Jumping Gulley Hunting club, just outside of Gibson,Ga., if there's some knowledge that might enlighten an old fart and point him in the right direction to remedy these problems I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks and Happy Labor Day...... I'm fixing to eat a bowl of Blue Bell banana pudding ice cream. If you like banana pudding you'll like it. I ain't lyin.
#1
The safety switch in seat messed up and I found it still worked with switch removed, but I've noticed the svc flashing on hour meter so I guess it ain't happy. I'm replacing next week. Going to work at hunting club this weekend.
#2
I had to jump it off first of the summer. Earlier today I saw somewhere that jumping it off with a vehicle will screw something up. Well, guilty as hell on that charge. It had a 275 cca battery in it, I replaced with 350 cca, which I read was recommended.
I checked the voltage while it was running and had about 12.5 volts. Is that about what it should be showing or is that low as far as recharging the battery? I know my truck shows about 14 volts.
#3
The other evening I was cutting and it went dead. I thought maybe my knee hit the key and shut it off. This was before I had replaced the battery so I had to pull my truck down and jump it off again.
when I started to cut again and pulled the PTO switch out the motor bogged down, I pushed it in before it went dead, did the switch again, it bogged again and I figured the PTO clutch was bad.
All bearings on the deck are good, nothing binding. I got a new clutch from shopgreendealer and put it on and it's still bogging down the engine. I called their tech support and he listened over the phone and said he'd send me another one.
Now I'm wondering if there is something else doing it.
Here's my questions:
#1
Could there be a delayed problem in regard to seat switch being removed, it did work without it.
#2
What should voltage be reading when it's running? What might I have damaged jumping it off?
#3
When I had removed original clutch I could turn it some by hand and it sounded kind of gravelly (as in a piece of gravel/rock). I thought bad bearing or surfaces. The new one I wasn't able to get to move at all. I ain't sure how one in good condition actually works or feels so I reckon I'll have to wait and see when another one arrives. In the meantime, while I'm in Glascock Co. at Jumping Gulley Hunting club, just outside of Gibson,Ga., if there's some knowledge that might enlighten an old fart and point him in the right direction to remedy these problems I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks and Happy Labor Day...... I'm fixing to eat a bowl of Blue Bell banana pudding ice cream. If you like banana pudding you'll like it. I ain't lyin.
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
:welcome:
1) The one & only safety device that should never be removed or dissabled is the seat switch.
On your model the seat switch should kill the engine if the brake is released or the PTO engaged when you are not in the seat
So you do have an electrical problem there somewhere
2) The voltage should be between 13 & 15 Volts with the engine running at full speed.
12.5 is battery voltage of a battey in reasonable condition under load.
3) Not sure with your particular clutch.
Some allow the pulley to freewheel when dissengaged while others lock up solid to act as a blade brake.
1) The one & only safety device that should never be removed or dissabled is the seat switch.
On your model the seat switch should kill the engine if the brake is released or the PTO engaged when you are not in the seat
So you do have an electrical problem there somewhere
2) The voltage should be between 13 & 15 Volts with the engine running at full speed.
12.5 is battery voltage of a battey in reasonable condition under load.
3) Not sure with your particular clutch.
Some allow the pulley to freewheel when dissengaged while others lock up solid to act as a blade brake.
#3
X
xray man
Thank you Bert.
I think I saw the seat switch was a NC and I'm unsure how it still would run and engage PTO with switch out but it did. But I'll definitely replace it.
Do you know what it is or might be that I evidently screwed up jumping it off with my truck? I guess I need to fix something in the charging circuit. Voltage regulator maybe?
From what tech support told me the clutch pulley doesn't freewheel when it isn't energized. But thinking about it the belt is pretty snug on clutch pulley. I have to pull belt tensioner quite a bit to get belt on the pulley. I would think it would freewheel when if you're not cutting. But I could be wrong..... ask my wife. I'll have to wait on the next new one to arrive.
Thanks again.
X
xray man
:welcome:
1) The one & only safety device that should never be removed or dissabled is the seat switch.
On your model the seat switch should kill the engine if the brake is released or the PTO engaged when you are not in the seat
So you do have an electrical problem there somewhere
2) The voltage should be between 13 & 15 Volts with the engine running at full speed.
12.5 is battery voltage of a battey in reasonable condition under load.
3) Not sure with your particular clutch.
Some allow the pulley to freewheel when dissengaged while others lock up solid to act as a blade brake.
Thank you Bert.
I think I saw the seat switch was a NC and I'm unsure how it still would run and engage PTO with switch out but it did. But I'll definitely replace it.
Do you know what it is or might be that I evidently screwed up jumping it off with my truck? I guess I need to fix something in the charging circuit. Voltage regulator maybe?
From what tech support told me the clutch pulley doesn't freewheel when it isn't energized. But thinking about it the belt is pretty snug on clutch pulley. I have to pull belt tensioner quite a bit to get belt on the pulley. I would think it would freewheel when if you're not cutting. But I could be wrong..... ask my wife. I'll have to wait on the next new one to arrive.
Thanks again.
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The only damage you are likely to do by jumping is burning up the starter as there are a lot more amps available.
Hooked up backwards it usually blows the fuse .
Never seen any damage done from jump starting, I do it just about every day.
Hooked up backwards it usually blows the fuse .
Never seen any damage done from jump starting, I do it just about every day.
#5
M
mjb8fj
check your charging system on your mower. The electric clutch needs battery power to run, so if the charging system isn't working- the pto will steal all the battery power. Also when checking the charging system, look for AC ripple effect, that could be frying your battery too if the diode has gone out.
M
mjb8fj
I got this mower from my son-in-law. I had to fix a couple of spindles on the deck and it has worked great. It didn't have a manual with it. It's had a few things begin to cause problems.
#1
The safety switch in seat messed up and I found it still worked with switch removed, but I've noticed the svc flashing on hour meter so I guess it ain't happy. I'm replacing next week. Going to work at hunting club this weekend.
#2
I had to jump it off first of the summer. Earlier today I saw somewhere that jumping it off with a vehicle will screw something up. Well, guilty as hell on that charge. It had a 275 cca battery in it, I replaced with 350 cca, which I read was recommended.
I checked the voltage while it was running and had about 12.5 volts. Is that about what it should be showing or is that low as far as recharging the battery? I know my truck shows about 14 volts.
#3
The other evening I was cutting and it went dead. I thought maybe my knee hit the key and shut it off. This was before I had replaced the battery so I had to pull my truck down and jump it off again.
when I started to cut again and pulled the PTO switch out the motor bogged down, I pushed it in before it went dead, did the switch again, it bogged again and I figured the PTO clutch was bad.
All bearings on the deck are good, nothing binding. I got a new clutch from shopgreendealer and put it on and it's still bogging down the engine. I called their tech support and he listened over the phone and said he'd send me another one.
Now I'm wondering if there is something else doing it.
Here's my questions:
#1
Could there be a delayed problem in regard to seat switch being removed, it did work without it.
#2
What should voltage be reading when it's running? What might I have damaged jumping it off?
#3
When I had removed original clutch I could turn it some by hand and it sounded kind of gravelly (as in a piece of gravel/rock). I thought bad bearing or surfaces. The new one I wasn't able to get to move at all. I ain't sure how one in good condition actually works or feels so I reckon I'll have to wait and see when another one arrives. In the meantime, while I'm in Glascock Co. at Jumping Gulley Hunting club, just outside of Gibson,Ga., if there's some knowledge that might enlighten an old fart and point him in the right direction to remedy these problems I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks and Happy Labor Day...... I'm fixing to eat a bowl of Blue Bell banana pudding ice cream. If you like banana pudding you'll like it. I ain't lyin.
check your charging system on your mower. The electric clutch needs battery power to run, so if the charging system isn't working- the pto will steal all the battery power. Also when checking the charging system, look for AC ripple effect, that could be frying your battery too if the diode has gone out.
#6
bakerg
bakerg
Don't worry about the svc on your hour meter, it is just a reminder that service is needed, programed in hour meter and will disappear after a few hours.
#7
X
xray man
X
xray man
Thank you Gary. Good day,eh? (I couldn't resist it). Yeah, I didn't know how sophisticated they'd gotten on mowers. If you unplug something on a newer vehicle your svc eng soon light comes on. Does Labor Day apply north of the border? Have a good one either way.
#8
bakerg
bakerg
Yes, we celebrate Labour Day here as well.:thumbsup:
#10
X
xray man
X
xray man
Thank you Ron. I figured it out when I first got it from the sn. Couldn't remember for sure. 05 is it.
#11
M
Mikel1
I hunt in Jefferson Co., have family in Gibson. Not thrilled about the call in system. Going bow hunting this weekend.
M
Mikel1
In the meantime, while I'm in Glascock Co. at Jumping Gulley Hunting club, just outside of Gibson,Ga., if there's some knowledge that might enlighten an old fart and point him in the right direction to remedy these problems I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks and Happy Labor Day...... I'm fixing to eat a bowl of Blue Bell banana pudding ice cream. If you like banana pudding you'll like it. I ain't lyin.
I hunt in Jefferson Co., have family in Gibson. Not thrilled about the call in system. Going bow hunting this weekend.
#12
X
xray man
X
xray man
I've got a feeling my charging system ain't working properly. I had to get a new multi-meter this evening and got home too late to mess with the mower.
I've got a new battery. The other day it measured about 12.5 v with mower off and the same running, full throttle. When I pulled PTO switch the clutch seemed to work fine several times.
Earlier today I cranked it, pulled PTO switch and the motor bogged. I was gonna check voltage again and that's when my Radio Shack meter took a dump. But I've seen somebody said if it's
not charging and battery is low the PTO will take all the power and kill motor. It should show 13 or 14 v when running, true? I'll check it in the morning. Might need some far away wisdom on troubleshooting
the charging system.
I checked it this mrng. I've got 12.3 v on battery, running is the same. I got about 29 v ac on the two yellows on voltage regulator and 12.3 v dc on the red wire. Is that either bad diode or stator? Pulling PTO switch still
kills motor. Thanks for the help.
I've got a new battery. The other day it measured about 12.5 v with mower off and the same running, full throttle. When I pulled PTO switch the clutch seemed to work fine several times.
Earlier today I cranked it, pulled PTO switch and the motor bogged. I was gonna check voltage again and that's when my Radio Shack meter took a dump. But I've seen somebody said if it's
not charging and battery is low the PTO will take all the power and kill motor. It should show 13 or 14 v when running, true? I'll check it in the morning. Might need some far away wisdom on troubleshooting
the charging system.
I checked it this mrng. I've got 12.3 v on battery, running is the same. I got about 29 v ac on the two yellows on voltage regulator and 12.3 v dc on the red wire. Is that either bad diode or stator? Pulling PTO switch still
kills motor. Thanks for the help.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Your rectifryer is either fried or has a bad ground.
The PTO puts a big load on the battery but the engine has a magneto which is battery independant.
However when the voltage drops below 9 to 10 Volts the carby solenoid cuts off the fuel.
The PTO puts a big load on the battery but the engine has a magneto which is battery independant.
However when the voltage drops below 9 to 10 Volts the carby solenoid cuts off the fuel.
#14
X
xray man
X
xray man
Hey Bert, thought I'd let you know I found bad connection on the DC out wire on the regulator. It's shows about 13.8 full throttle now. Thanks for your help. And g'day mate.