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1 year old yth24v48 husqvarna will not start
#1
A
alalas
A
alalas
It will not make any sound at all when i turn the key, no click, nothing
I plugged the car charger I have on the battery terminals and it started fine.
As soon as I removed the charger, it stopped running.
I thought I needed new battery and I bought one.
I put new battery today, and still it does not turn on, no click, nothing.
I checked the 20A fuse I could follow from the red wire of the red terminal on the battery, fuse OK.
Any ideas what else it can be? Appreciate your help
I plugged the car charger I have on the battery terminals and it started fine.
As soon as I removed the charger, it stopped running.
I thought I needed new battery and I bought one.
I put new battery today, and still it does not turn on, no click, nothing.
I checked the 20A fuse I could follow from the red wire of the red terminal on the battery, fuse OK.
Any ideas what else it can be? Appreciate your help
#2
G
gainestruk
G
gainestruk
Do you have a multi meter that you can check voltage with it not running, you said it will run with booster cables on from car, when you start it and take cables off how long till it stops.
You should also check all of the safety switches, if one is open like nothing on seat you won't get a click when you try, I can't think of what would make it run with booster cables on.
Mechanic mark or bertsmobile1 or one of the other experts will you jump in here please.
You should also check all of the safety switches, if one is open like nothing on seat you won't get a click when you try, I can't think of what would make it run with booster cables on.
Mechanic mark or bertsmobile1 or one of the other experts will you jump in here please.
#3
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
The engine doesn't need the battery to run, only to crank. But the electric solenoid mounted on the carburetor does need battery voltage to supply gasoline and the valve closed the instant the 12 V supply was disconnected. Someone please correct me if I'm incorrect about the solenoid and its volt supply.
You've learned something already. Never replace the battery until it has been fully charged and load tested. Many automotive retail stores will do this free of charge. My NAPA store does and that's where I purchase my jelled, sealed batteries.
Let the trouble shooting begin.
You've learned something already. Never replace the battery until it has been fully charged and load tested. Many automotive retail stores will do this free of charge. My NAPA store does and that's where I purchase my jelled, sealed batteries.
Let the trouble shooting begin.
#4
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Check all wiring by hand making sure everything is tight & secure especially ground straps & cables from engine to chassis.
#5
B
bertsmobile1
Some will turn off at 10V and yes sounds like the fuel solenoid is tripping off.
Cant really see how that would work with the OP's post, something is not right with that wiring.
B
bertsmobile1
The engine doesn't need the battery to run, only to crank. But the electric solenoid mounted on the carburetor does need battery voltage to supply gasoline and the valve closed the instant the 12 V supply was disconnected. Someone please correct me if I'm incorrect about the solenoid and its volt supply.
You've learned something already. Never replace the battery until it has been fully charged and load tested. Many automotive retail stores will do this free of charge. My NAPA store does and that's where I purchase my jelled, sealed batteries.
Let the trouble shooting begin.
Some will turn off at 10V and yes sounds like the fuel solenoid is tripping off.
Cant really see how that would work with the OP's post, something is not right with that wiring.
#6
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
It dies as soon as the jumpers are disconnected. Electrical problem so let the trouble shooting begin as in he needs to find the real electrical problem.Some will turn off at 10V and yes sounds like the fuel solenoid is tripping off.
Cant really see how that would work with the OP's post, something is not right with that wiring.
#7
A
alalas
Thanks, I ll check wires at weekend and let you guys know.
A
alalas
It dies as soon as the jumpers are disconnected. Electrical problem so let the trouble shooting begin as in he needs to find the real electrical problem.
Thanks, I ll check wires at weekend and let you guys know.
#8
A
alalas
A
alalas
Hi guys, still no luck, I followed wires along, and they all look good and clean.
Could it be the alternator?
Could it be the alternator?
#9
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Read this post http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/40098-Mower-won-t-turn-over?p=250362#post250362
Same problem, different mower, but same solution.
Bridge the two big terminals on top of the starter solenoid.
Engine cranks = all heavy wiring is OK, mower ground is OK
Jump the small terminals on the starter solenoid , engine cranks = solenoid OK
The small terminals are not polarity sensitive.
Only 1 hook it + and ground the body
2 then 1 ground & the other 12 V does not matter which way.
If you do not get 12 V on one of the small solenoid wires then proceed as per the above post.
If you have a 4 pole solenoid then check one goes + 12v and the other goes ground with the key in the start position.
Same problem, different mower, but same solution.
Bridge the two big terminals on top of the starter solenoid.
Engine cranks = all heavy wiring is OK, mower ground is OK
Jump the small terminals on the starter solenoid , engine cranks = solenoid OK
The small terminals are not polarity sensitive.
Only 1 hook it + and ground the body
2 then 1 ground & the other 12 V does not matter which way.
If you do not get 12 V on one of the small solenoid wires then proceed as per the above post.
If you have a 4 pole solenoid then check one goes + 12v and the other goes ground with the key in the start position.
#10
B
bertsmobile1
NO !
B
bertsmobile1
Hi guys, still no luck, I followed wires along, and they all look good and clean.
Could it be the alternator?
NO !
#11
J
JayzAuto1
J
JayzAuto1
GMorning, It really is in your best interest to pick up a volt meter to do some basic testing, starting at the battery. Meters vary in price, but an inexpensive unit will work for this purpose. But from your description, it sounds as if there is a poor connection between the battery posts and the battery cables, or the crimp of the terminals to the cables. This would explain ALL your symptoms and results. If you test the battery voltage, AT the BATTERY TERMINALS, a fully charged battery will have 12.6 volts. Then test the voltage ON the Battery CABLE ENDS that attach to the battery. It should be EXACTLY the same reading as at the terminals. A final test is to leave the meter connected to the terminals and try to start the mower. The voltage should not drop below 10 volts while cranking. But I imagine you will have found your problem in one of the first 2 tests. IF the results have not revealed themselves at this point, the volt meter will be needed to determine the next tests, which would be the cables themselves. GLuck, J
#12
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
Another instance of the O P not listening. The obvious indication is in reply #8.
#13
M
mijjy
I've been having some problem, I found that solenoid needed a ground wire attached from solenoid mounting lug to battery ground so it would spin starter with key in start position. It started but wouldn't shut down without disconnecting battery. So I tried a momentary ground to start, then immediately disconnect ground to run engine, it would the shut off the engine normally. I just have to figure how and what to use to make a momentary ground, or otherwise figure out what's wrong in original parts and wiring.
Good Luck, Jim
M
mijjy
It will not make any sound at all when i turn the key, no click, nothing
I plugged the car charger I have on the battery terminals and it started fine.
As soon as I removed the charger, it stopped running.
I thought I needed new battery and I bought one.
I put new battery today, and still it does not turn on, no click, nothing.
I checked the 20A fuse I could follow from the red wire of the red terminal on the battery, fuse OK.
Any ideas what else it can be? Appreciate your help
I've been having some problem, I found that solenoid needed a ground wire attached from solenoid mounting lug to battery ground so it would spin starter with key in start position. It started but wouldn't shut down without disconnecting battery. So I tried a momentary ground to start, then immediately disconnect ground to run engine, it would the shut off the engine normally. I just have to figure how and what to use to make a momentary ground, or otherwise figure out what's wrong in original parts and wiring.
Good Luck, Jim
#14
B
bertsmobile1
What is wrong is a bad ground connection.
if there is no ground at the solenoid, the solenoid can not work.
if there is no ground at the key switch, the key switch can not work
B
bertsmobile1
I've been having some problem, I found that solenoid needed a ground wire attached from solenoid mounting lug to battery ground so it would spin starter with key in start position. It started but wouldn't shut down without disconnecting battery. So I tried a momentary ground to start, then immediately disconnect ground to run engine, it would the shut off the engine normally. I just have to figure how and what to use to make a momentary ground, or otherwise figure out what's wrong in original parts and wiring.
Good Luck, Jim
What is wrong is a bad ground connection.
if there is no ground at the solenoid, the solenoid can not work.
if there is no ground at the key switch, the key switch can not work
#15
M
mijjy
Also if the neutral safety switches are not adjusted properly, the engine can't start. I believe that is my problem since the ground wire at the solenoid is a brown color and I've seen a wiring diagram that shows this brown wire goes to a 3 pole limit switch which I think must be the neutral safety switch.
Does anyone know where these neutral safety switches are located? Are they at the hydrostatic transmission itself?
Later, Jim
M
mijjy
What is wrong is a bad ground connection.
if there is no ground at the solenoid, the solenoid can not work.
if there is no ground at the key switch, the key switch can not work
Also if the neutral safety switches are not adjusted properly, the engine can't start. I believe that is my problem since the ground wire at the solenoid is a brown color and I've seen a wiring diagram that shows this brown wire goes to a 3 pole limit switch which I think must be the neutral safety switch.
Does anyone know where these neutral safety switches are located? Are they at the hydrostatic transmission itself?
Later, Jim
#16
J
JayzAuto1
I downloaded you manual direct from Husqvarna....You should also. They have parts and owners manuals free of charge. I don't see a nuetral/safety switch, per se. Clutch, seat, reverse lockout and PTO switches. It's a simple matter to test this system, preferably with a volt meter ( cheap Harbor Freight Model will do) or at a minimum, a 12v test light. Once you get 2 of those 3 items, I can guide you thru the testing procedure, very simply. GLuck, J
J
JayzAuto1
Also if the neutral safety switches are not adjusted properly, the engine can't start. I believe that is my problem since the ground wire at the solenoid is a brown color and I've seen a wiring diagram that shows this brown wire goes to a 3 pole limit switch which I think must be the neutral safety switch.
Does anyone know where these neutral safety switches are located? Are they at the hydrostatic transmission itself?
Later, Jim
I downloaded you manual direct from Husqvarna....You should also. They have parts and owners manuals free of charge. I don't see a nuetral/safety switch, per se. Clutch, seat, reverse lockout and PTO switches. It's a simple matter to test this system, preferably with a volt meter ( cheap Harbor Freight Model will do) or at a minimum, a 12v test light. Once you get 2 of those 3 items, I can guide you thru the testing procedure, very simply. GLuck, J
#17
M
mijjy
I have downloaded the manual a long time ago, the parts list too, neither of those freebee's show or mention those safety switch items. Other than the Model # of my hydrostatic articulating mower, I don't know what year it is for sure, it maybe 10 years old or maybe 15 years old. Anyway I do know it's not new and these switches are a part of it because I find them briefly mentioned here and there on the web for that model.
I have the testing stuff you mentioned, I'm getting up in years so it takes a while for me to make a serious effort to track things down, I don't bend over as easily as I used to so I look for answers on my computer first.
Later, Jim
M
mijjy
I downloaded you manual direct from Husqvarna....You should also. They have parts and owners manuals free of charge. I don't see a nuetral/safety switch, per se. Clutch, seat, reverse lockout and PTO switches. It's a simple matter to test this system, preferably with a volt meter ( cheap Harbor Freight Model will do) or at a minimum, a 12v test light. Once you get 2 of those 3 items, I can guide you thru the testing procedure, very simply. GLuck, J
I have downloaded the manual a long time ago, the parts list too, neither of those freebee's show or mention those safety switch items. Other than the Model # of my hydrostatic articulating mower, I don't know what year it is for sure, it maybe 10 years old or maybe 15 years old. Anyway I do know it's not new and these switches are a part of it because I find them briefly mentioned here and there on the web for that model.
I have the testing stuff you mentioned, I'm getting up in years so it takes a while for me to make a serious effort to track things down, I don't bend over as easily as I used to so I look for answers on my computer first.
Later, Jim
#18
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you have not solved your problem yet, I suggest you start over following this procedure. After you have completed the entire procedure, post back with your findings, which will give us a much better picture as to how to proceed.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#19
M
mijjy
Follow up, I finally located a diagram for my ignition switch, continuity's checked out okay. My solenoid is isolated from ground with 2 rubber mounting grommets. I ran a new ground wire from the brown wire, ran it through a horn button near the ignition switch & grounded to frame there, it by passes whatever safety switch was preventing start, so it start's good now without issue, I can mow the lawn or whatever.
Later, Jim
M
mijjy
I have downloaded the manual a long time ago, the parts list too, neither of those freebee's show or mention those safety switch items. Other than the Model # of my hydrostatic articulating mower, I don't know what year it is for sure, it maybe 10 years old or maybe 15 years old. Anyway I do know it's not new and these switches are a part of it because I find them briefly mentioned here and there on the web for that model.
I have the testing stuff you mentioned, I'm getting up in years so it takes a while for me to make a serious effort to track things down, I don't bend over as easily as I used to so I look for answers on my computer first.
Later, Jim
Follow up, I finally located a diagram for my ignition switch, continuity's checked out okay. My solenoid is isolated from ground with 2 rubber mounting grommets. I ran a new ground wire from the brown wire, ran it through a horn button near the ignition switch & grounded to frame there, it by passes whatever safety switch was preventing start, so it start's good now without issue, I can mow the lawn or whatever.
Later, Jim
#20
jimbo_kirko
jimbo_kirko
Did you check the Stater to see if its supplying current to the electrical system on the mower?