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Welcome to the forum, Malcolm!
Husqvarna Owner Check-In --- Read This First!
- Thread starter Muhammad
- Start date
Welcome to the forum, Malcolm!
LeakyGasket
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First time here --- I was originally wanting to get a Hustler flip deck (had already paid for it), but big delays in production is causing me to look here. Was looking at a MT54, I believe it is called, and will do a lot of studying to see if the Dealers recommendation is OK with me. He sells Scag, Hustler, Husqvarna, and several others, and said for his money, the best built of the group is Husqvarna, since it is a mostly welded frame.
I am looking to replace my Hustler Sport 42 with a large mower. I am trying to limit my costs to $5K or less with a deck size of 48 inches or 52 inches if its within the $5K limit. I have narrowed my choices for my area to a Husqvarna M-TZ 52, Kubota Kommander 121s 48 inch and a Bobcat XRZ 48 inch. I looked at Hustler Fast track and Big Dog R748 but they are over my cost limits. The Hustler Sport has served me well for 5 years with no problems at all. I looked at the Raptor SD and the Scag Freedom Z but they use the ZT 2800 trans. I want the ZT3100 as I have a Cyclone rake and a lawn aerators. The M-ZT 52 is $6K but the dealer showed me the MZ-52 which is a new model that is built on the same chassis and mower deck as the M-ZT 52 but replaced items that brought the costs down. It uses a ZT3100 instead of the ZT3400 and a Kawasaki FR instead of the FS. Smaller rear tires, no ROPS, different seat. The Bobcat XRZ used the same engine/trans as the MZ-52. The Kubota has a Kohler/ZT 3100 combo but a very good suspension seat. So now I am trying to make my decision on which one to buy. I'm leaning towards the MZ-52 but would appreciate any comments positive or negative.
GREETINGS to all Husqvarna (aka "Husky") mower owners! :thumbsup:
If you're new to the forum, please reply to this thread and introduce yourself and your mower (that is, if your mower have a name :laughing. maybe attach a photo or two of your mower and show off your pride and joy.
Also, if you haven't done so already you can upload a user avatar (picture under your user name). You can do so by clicking on settings and "edit avatar" or just click here.
Please be helpful and friendly to all other Husqvarna owners (how could you not, right?) and if you like this forum, tell your friends about it. :biggrin:
We want to make this the best resource for Husqvarna mower owners, and to do that we need your help! Questions? Experiences? Stories? Data? Photos? Articles? Links? Cool Husqvarna stuff? Post it here!
Last but not least, please let me know if you have any suggestions for the site. We'd love to hear them.
Muhammad, i guess I have already announced myself to the general "Riding Mower" folks with a question about an excess buildup of grass cuttings on my Husqvarna YTH 22V46 and have gotten a lot of replies helping me work through my problem from some not even Husky owners. Since this is the first of this brand I have ever purchased this forum specifically for Husky owners will be great too.. I like my first experience with the mower, just surprised that after cutting only about an acre of dry grass and weeds the mulching kit jammed the cuttings around the cutting deck pulleys. So far it seems the only practical and easy solution to my problem is to not to see how quickly I can cut the grass and to cut it more often. I can do that and stay out of my wife's hair. She likes that. But for those other Husqvana ower's out there if you have any special advice for a new owner and a newbe to this forum let me hear from you with any suggestion for a new Husky owner. I get conflicting answers about what engine oil to use. I live in Myrtle Beach, SC and the summer temps get up near 100 in July and Aug but abate beginning in mid September. Our centipede grass goes dormant once the temps start getting down near freezing so the Mower is cleaned up and stored in the Garage by then. I have always used Sythetic Oil in my car but a neighbor talked me into putting synthetic in my old mower and it ran through a half quart of oil almost after one cutting. Can someone who has had a Husky for a long time suggest what oil would be best for my V Twin 22 HP B&S Engine? Can't express how lucky I feel finding this website. I have spent hours and hours since getting the new mower looking for recommendation with all no reply. This site it fantastic and obviously filled with helpful people axious to talk you through problems.
bertsmobile1
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Go to the Husky web site
Husqvarna Support - Servicing Dealers for Homeowners
Type in your model numbers and down load the owners manual.
In there is an oil chart
You should be using 10W40 or strait 30 W
If you are not using it as a snow plow.
Most important thing is to change the oil at the end of the mowing season so it sits there with nice clean oil in the sump and not cruddy oil slowly dumping sediment into all the oil ways.
If your mower does not have a fuel tap on it ( an it does not ) fit one between the fuel tank & the fuel filter thus you can change the filter without getting covered with fuel and second you can turn it off & run the carb dry before bedding it down for winter.
Buy a few sets of blades so you can sharpen them when you have a minute.
mulching takes a high toll on blades and mulching with dull blades puts a really heavy load on the engine. You would not shave with a dull razor so why mow with a dull blade.
Don't think there is a plain 30 grade synthetic oil & I alway advocate using mower oil , brand ypur choice.
Mower oil is formulated ( like harley oil ) for air cooled engines that get used infrequently so it has a lot more corrosion inhibitors in it.
Get a 3" diameter key ring. put the mower key on it and store it over the dip stick, thus you might just remember to check the oil every time before you start the engine.
If you are mulching a lot of dry grass get a few pre filters so you can pop a clean one on every 5 or 6 mows, you will work out how often after using it for a season.
Pre filters wash best in hair shampoo but explaining what you are doing in the shower :ashamed: to SWMBO might be a bit difficult. Do not oil them, fit them dry.
Alway use fresh ethanol free fuel
Husqvarna Support - Servicing Dealers for Homeowners
Type in your model numbers and down load the owners manual.
In there is an oil chart
You should be using 10W40 or strait 30 W
If you are not using it as a snow plow.
Most important thing is to change the oil at the end of the mowing season so it sits there with nice clean oil in the sump and not cruddy oil slowly dumping sediment into all the oil ways.
If your mower does not have a fuel tap on it ( an it does not ) fit one between the fuel tank & the fuel filter thus you can change the filter without getting covered with fuel and second you can turn it off & run the carb dry before bedding it down for winter.
Buy a few sets of blades so you can sharpen them when you have a minute.
mulching takes a high toll on blades and mulching with dull blades puts a really heavy load on the engine. You would not shave with a dull razor so why mow with a dull blade.
Don't think there is a plain 30 grade synthetic oil & I alway advocate using mower oil , brand ypur choice.
Mower oil is formulated ( like harley oil ) for air cooled engines that get used infrequently so it has a lot more corrosion inhibitors in it.
Get a 3" diameter key ring. put the mower key on it and store it over the dip stick, thus you might just remember to check the oil every time before you start the engine.
If you are mulching a lot of dry grass get a few pre filters so you can pop a clean one on every 5 or 6 mows, you will work out how often after using it for a season.
Pre filters wash best in hair shampoo but explaining what you are doing in the shower :ashamed: to SWMBO might be a bit difficult. Do not oil them, fit them dry.
Alway use fresh ethanol free fuel
I just noticed this thread, "Husqvarna Owner Check In"
I've been a member since May 2010 and have posted only 2 or 3 times.
I have two Husqvarna R322T AWD machines with the Combi 103 mowing deck and also an Agri-Fab 2 stage snow blower attachment.
The two R322T machines replaced two Wheel Horse machines, a 416-H and a 414-8.
We needed mowers that would handle our steep slopes better and would also feel more stable on those slopes for the operator.
The R322T mowers have worked out really well for my wife and I in those situations.
The R322T with snow blower, is only a back up for my Kubota B7800 with snow blower.
So for snow blowing, the R322T hasn't been used much.
Hope to participate more in the future.
I've been a member since May 2010 and have posted only 2 or 3 times.
I have two Husqvarna R322T AWD machines with the Combi 103 mowing deck and also an Agri-Fab 2 stage snow blower attachment.
The two R322T machines replaced two Wheel Horse machines, a 416-H and a 414-8.
We needed mowers that would handle our steep slopes better and would also feel more stable on those slopes for the operator.
The R322T mowers have worked out really well for my wife and I in those situations.
The R322T with snow blower, is only a back up for my Kubota B7800 with snow blower.
So for snow blowing, the R322T hasn't been used much.
Hope to participate more in the future.
New owner of a Dixon Ultra 52 SE from Ashdown, AR. I am having fun learning how to drive but already getting comfortable with it.
I always mulched with my old Craftsman 42" lawn tractor and would like to with this machine. Does anyone have any experience with the Husqvarna 52" fabricated deck mulching kit? I could try Gator blades but would rather not have the side discharge chute.
I always mulched with my old Craftsman 42" lawn tractor and would like to with this machine. Does anyone have any experience with the Husqvarna 52" fabricated deck mulching kit? I could try Gator blades but would rather not have the side discharge chute.
I signed up a few minutes ago while doing an internet search on why the deck belt on the RZ4619 will not stay on. Still searching the forum in case someone else has solved this problem.
This is the first mowing of the season here in this part of North Dakota and after a few rainy days it's time to mow.
This is the first mowing of the season here in this part of North Dakota and after a few rainy days it's time to mow.
bertsmobile1
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Welcome.
This is really a thead to say howdy & introduce yourself.
Most forum readers do not read this thread so a lot of questions on it go unnoticed & unanswered.
Start a new thread titled "trouble with RZ4219 deck belt"
This is really a thead to say howdy & introduce yourself.
Most forum readers do not read this thread so a lot of questions on it go unnoticed & unanswered.
Start a new thread titled "trouble with RZ4219 deck belt"
bertsmobile1
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And I forgot to mention earlier, mulching only works properly within a specific cutting height range and grass height and this will vary depending upon the type of grass you have and is speed sensitive and of course will also vary with blade type, deck type & mower itself.
Deck too high & the grass will build up under the deck & grass will clump.
Deck too low and clipping will blow up through the deck vents and cover the top of the deck and collect under the mower & eventually clag up the clutch on YTH's
You can not effectively mulch a cut that is more than 50% of the total grass height as the clippings have no where to go
For the same reason you can not mulch if the cut grass will be less than 1" and it works best at 2" to 3 " finish height.
So you will just need to do a lot of experimenting.
When you think about it you are asking the blades to draw air in from the sides of the deck to stand up the grass blades for cutting then swirl the cuttings around while the the cuttings gets diced up then drop them down in betwen the blades of cut grass finally to blow out as clean air through the tiny holes around the spindles which usually block up.
It is a big ask