Extended, high rise hitch bar

JDgreen

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May 14, 2010
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My tractor has only one provision to hook up a conventional utility trailer, and that is by using a drawbar that fits into a sleeve located under rear differential case. The flat factory drawbar is much too short, too low, and using a hitch ball on it means the tractor 3 point lift arms contact my utility trailer jack.

Last year I was at a garage sale, and purchased an old curved drawbar for $5, and I had an old 2 inch hitch bar, I drilled a pair of half inch holes thru the hitch bar to line up with the existing holes in the drawbar, then sanded, primed, and painted both parts. The pictures show the finished hitch bar, with it installed, my utility trailer can be towed level, and the tongue jack doesn't contact the lift arms. I thought about having the assembly welded, but I had the bolts to attach them together. and I am a cheapskate at heart.
 

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noma

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hi J D Green looks good and it works so you are happy and that's what counts right. The nice thing about bolting it you can take it back apart if you want to change any thing on it , but if it was welded then you would have had your work cut out for you to cut it apart again.:smile:
 

JDgreen

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May 14, 2010
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hi J D Green looks good and it works so you are happy and that's what counts right. The nice thing about bolting it you can take it back apart if you want to change any thing on it , but if it was welded then you would have had your work cut out for you to cut it apart again.:smile:

Basically, yes...what if I wanted to flip the hitch bar down to fit another tractor? One reply about the same picture I posted on TBN said in some cases using a hitch bar this long might create enough leverage to make the front end of the tractor light, which is true. It is already long enough that the bar will flex slightly with only my utility trailer (tongue weight 175 lbs) attached to it. I wouldn't use this kind of long hitch bar for a heavy trailer.
 
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