New Member / Winter Project

I came upon the forum looking for info on the web.
I have a LT1045 powered by a Kohler SV600 single cylinder, 6 years old.
The engine leaked oil when new and was worked on under warranty.
The two years later I paid for engine repairs, still leaked oil.
Then last fall it quit again, turns over won't start, I suspect no compression.
So I scoured for a good used cub and bought a 1720 for $200 pretty decent.
Right now it is ready to mow, oil changed, new belts, brakes and hydro adjusted.
But it doesn't ride and handle like my newer 1045.
I was going to sell the 1045 just as it sat.
Then today I bought an old craftsman with no mower deck or battery for $50.
What is does have is a strong B&S twin i6HP.
So tomorrow I am going to determine if the shaft diameter and length will work with the PTO on the 1045.
If I think it will, I plan to pull the Kohler and install the B&S twin.
I suspect i am going to have to accommodate the muffler and hood which I am willing to do.
I likely will have to drill new mounting holes for the engine itself, plus other modifications.
The 1045 mows really nice, it maneuvers really nice, The Kohler Courage engine in my opinion is scrap.
To buy a new replacement engine is nuts I got quotes between $700 - 1200, priced Kohler and B&S.
That's how I am spending my winter vacation.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/20_690_01_EN.pdf information

772-3870

mechanic mark said:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/20_690_01_EN.pdf information

772-3870

Click to expand...

Thanks Mark I saved the Service Manual for the 1720 to my Cub Cadet folder and i will have it for future reference.
I pulled the Kohler SV600 from the Cub cadet today, everything came apart as it should have with no hitches.
I pulled the B&S twin from the donor tractor without too much trouble also Model 402707 twin 16 HP.
The shaft lengths are within 1/16".
But the Cub Cadet tractor drive pulley won't slip onto to the B&S that I want to put into the Cub Cadet.
The diameter must be slightly bigger.
I tried researching that via the internet but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.
Since the Cub Cadet has PTO for the mower deck I want the shaft diameters to be the same.

Good deal, what are crankshaft diameters? Also post all B&S numbers, model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx, thanks.

mechanic mark said:

Good deal, what are crankshaft diameters? Also post all B&S numbers, model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx, thanks.

Click to expand...

The B&S is model 402707, type 013501, code 82072112

I measure the Kohler at 1.009
I measure the Briggs at 1.310

mechanic mark said:

Good deal, what are crankshaft diameters? Also post all B&S numbers, model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx, thanks.

Click to expand...

Mark, I am back on track.
I walked away from the project then went back the next day.
I started by re-measuring the shafts after cleaning them and they were close, within .002.
I then noticed the Briggs had a key in the keyway and the cub pulley had an internal key.
I took the key out of the Briggs shaft and it went right together.
I then did a slight mod to the Briggs muffler.
It had a tail pipe coming out of the bottom, I removed it.
I then set the motor on the cub frame installed the drive pulley with the belt to determine what had to be done to bolt the Briggs twin where it has to sit.
It seems there are 3 sets of bolt holes in the cub frame.
The Briggs will use a different set than the Kohler Courage did, but no drilling is required by me.
I bolted the motor in with 2 bolts, I will have to install a solenoid for the Briggs, I believe it is internal to the Kohler starter.
I will pull the motor back out install a new drive belt and put the solenoid in, I will post progress here.

Ok the current status is the replacement motor is in.
I replaced the tractor drive belt, put in the Briggs twin.
The drive pulley and PTO & guard went back in as expected.
I installed the solenoid from the Craftsman mower in existing holes behind the engine.
I connected the positive lead from the battery to the solenoid then the cable from the solenoid to the starter.
The fuel line on the briggs was brittle I installed a new fuel line from my Cub fuel filter to the fuel pump on the Briggs.
I now am going to decipher the wiring.
The Cub has a more extensive electrical system than the craftsman had.
I will also had to get a longer choke cable, and if the throttle cable is long enough it will be by a hair.
I had a technical glitch when trying to attach a photo last post.
I will get that figured out and attach a few.

The cub is 95% complete.
I still have the mower deck in the basement to go over before spring.
The Briggs twin starts and runs fine.
I had to remove the headlight fixture to allow room for the large Briggs air cleaner.
Doesn't bother me I had them disconnected because i drained my battery once.
I will likely wait til spring to fiddle with the carb adjustments.
I paid $50 for the donor tractor/motor that lacked a battery and mower deck.
I will likely post the transmission and tires and wheels free for the taking on craigslist.
I plan to sell parts off of my motor on ebay for 1/2 the list price of the part.
Right now I can list the muffler, starter, and choke cable to get my $50 back.
What other parts are easily removed and shipped that someone may want?
I am going to make another attempt at posting pics.

Good job, thanks for posting.

Results

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...er L-Head repair manual BRIGGS & STRATTON.pdf your B&S repair manual for future reference.

mechanic mark said:

Good job, thanks for posting.

Results

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...er L-Head repair manual BRIGGS & STRATTON.pdf your B&S repair manual for future reference.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the repair manual.
I saved it for future reference.